Need Help - Board issues (Z270 Extreme 4 Asrock)

[ccfonzie]

Got some issues here. Hope someone might have an idea if they had similar issues with this board.

I just completed my build today
I7 7700k
Z270 Extreme 4
Coolmaster liquidmaker 92 Cooler
1TB Samsung SSD
CX 650 Bronze Corsair PS
16GB Crucial Ballistic Ram Sport LT

I turn the power on the LED'S on board does a slow flash green (rpg lighting flash same as well). The case fans come on - all except for the 1 fan that connects to the back of the mother board.
My CPU cooler has 2 fans on the cooler. 1 that plus into the board CPU Fan Slot (That fan isn't working) – but the 2nd one that plugs into a SATA power supply (is working)?

I reset the ram slot multiple times… Took off the CPU Cooler and checked for bent pins and etc… Everything is good. aThe CPU power supply and the Board Supply have been taken out and properly seated. I’m kind of at a stand still at this point. I’m think the board might be bad. I have a speakier installed (no beeps.no nothing).it seems I have power for the Led/RGB lights and that it.

Any Ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You plugged in BOTH the 4/8 pin CPU EPS 12v connector AND the 24 pin ATX connector on the motherboard from the power supply?

Before we go TOO far into this, try connecting a different fan, only temporarily, to the CPU FAN header. It will need to be a four pin fan connector if you have another fan that has one and is not a three pin fan. Most systems won't boot without an RPM signal from the CPU FAN header unless you turn off the CPU fan error setting in the bios, which you can't do unless you get IN there to do it.

Using a different fan might eliminate the possibility that you simply have a bad fan that came with your cooler. It happens.

If not that, double and triple check everything at the following link even if you THINK you already have. 90% of the time these problems are resolved by going back over something that we are sure we already checked, but apparently didn't check well enough.

Perform checks of ALL of the following before posting about no display/no POST issues.

 

[ccfonzie]

Hey Darkbreeze.... Thanks for the quick reply!

Yes just tried it... still no power....Only power is from the power supply... Cd rom takes off.... all the fans case off the PS..... (except the board one). The only thing that tells me the board is alive is the RGB LED's....ugh

Just red the (link)... Everything's been done but clear comos.?

 

[Darkbreeze]

All the fans are powered directly off molex adapters from the power supply? Except one rear case fan and one radiator fan for the cooler?

 

[ccfonzie]

Yes

 

[ccfonzie]

also clear cmos did nothing, just tried that.

 

[Darkbreeze]

How many pins is the connector that the rear case fan is plugged into? Or how many wires does the fan itself have?

What is your case model number and are ALL of the case fans ones that came WITH the case?

 

[ccfonzie]

the fan is 3 pin... the board has 4 (standard)

 

[ccfonzie]

Case is IWIN GT1 from Newegg...

https://www.inwin-style.com/media/gaming-chassis/GT1/20160302064619_96767.pdf

6 - Kingwin 120 x 120mm Long Life Bearing Case Fans

 

[Darkbreeze]

How many pins are there on the wiring coming from your radiator fan, 3 or 4?

Make sure your graphics card is fully seated too. Take it out, check the PCIe slot to be sure there is no debris inside the slot, reseat it and make sure you have connected any necessary PCI power cabling to it from the power supply, and that THOSE connections are fully seated as well.

 

[ccfonzie]

4

 

[Darkbreeze]

Remove your rear case fan, if you can do so, and connect it to the CPU FAN header. Install it with the pins located on the pins 1-3 of the CPU FAN header. Try to power on. Simply leave the radiator and pump disconnected temporarily. I only want to see if the system powers up and that rear fan comes on. If you can reach the CPU FAN header with the wires from the rear fan, or if there is another fan that WILL reach and HAS a three or four pin connector in addition to the four pin molex connectors that you are currently connecting those with, you don't need to remove the fan from it's location.

If one of your other fans will reach and DOES have a standard three or four pin connector in addition to the molex power connector, be sure to disconnect the molex power connector before attaching it to the CPU FAN header for testing. You don't want both the standard fan connector and the molex connector both hooked up at the same time.

That's just so it will reach. You will likely have to simply hold the fan in your hand while you test to see if the power comes on. If you have another fan from a previous or other system, you can use that instead. I just want a fan with an RPM signal connected to the CPU FAN header to verify if there is

A)power to that header

B)fan comes on

C)system comes on once it detects an RPM signal on that header

D)I like making people waste time


Ok, that last one was a lie and was a slum dog millionaire tie in.

Ignore that one, and I assure you I am not trying to make you waste time.

Another thing you MIGHT want to do, is disconnect all drives from the system temporarily. Disconnect the pump and all cooler connections. Disconnect all the front panel connections going to the motherboard and simply jump across the power on pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver or similar tool to eliminate a bunch of other things that might be hindering the system from starting. Do those after testing with the fan.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2011-jumping-a-motherboard-without-power-switch-button


If none of this ends up helping, you will be wise to remove everything from the case and bench test the motherboard, because at this point it is looking a lot like a bad motherboard.

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html


Also, how old is that power supply? Did you get that WITH the rest of the parts, or is it from before? OFTEN, very OFTEN in fact, older power supplies seem to have a predisposition for taking a dirt nap when being moved from one build to another if they have been in previous use for some time.

The fact that some parts of the system see power is no indication that the PSU is good, because mostly what you are seeing with power is coming from one circuit of the PSU while the circuit that supplies power THROUGH the motherboard 8 or 24pin circuit has decided it is done with this crap.

 

[ccfonzie]

Just did the cpu fan test.... did nothing. only got a split mili sec of power when I turned it off (red glow) for a mil second. lol

 

[ccfonzie]

power supply is brand new.... fans and gpu are working? will jump power next...

 

[Darkbreeze]

The graphics card fans are coming on? Then it's getting slot power at least.

If there is no power to the fan you connected then there's a good chance you have a bad board or somehow damaged the board. Take it out and bench test it. Make sure no standoffs or screws are shorting out the board underneath. Use a piece of cardboard to lay the motherboard on, on a countertop or table, while bench testing it.

 

[ccfonzie]

jumped power switch (pwrbtn w/ GND)... Did the same power on (case fans led lighting that all)...... Notice threes a mil of voltage when turning on and off the PC. The Cpu Fan flinches.

 

[ccfonzie]

The GPU always came on with the pci power plugged in. but i thought that was just from the power supply - not the board. Hey man thank you very much for the help. It's greatly appreciated. The case only came w/ 3 stand offs.... The case is built with risers in it (metal cones for screws) for a mid atx m-board.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Power to the cards COULD just be from the PEG connectors, not actually sure. I think they can take fan power from either the slot or the PEG connector. Regardless, clearly something is faulty. I'd bench test to be sure using the instructions on doing so that I linked to above. You'd be surprised how many times something won't work in the case but then does on the bench and makes it so much easier to figure out WHAT the difference is when you have room to work and nothing around the board to potentially cause issues.

You don't happen to have an old CPU cooler you can use on the bench do you? If not, just take the cooler out with it and use it that way, or just the main fan from the cooler even. Just so long as there is one connected to the CPU FAN header when you try to start it.

Don't run it long IF it does start though. Just long enough to verify unless you have a cooler attached and it might be a good idea to NOT have the cooler attached to the CPU just in case it is the mounting pressure shorting a pin the wrong way or something is not evenly tightened all the way around, like the backplate bracket. Little things like that CAN cause a system to not start if there is unequal mounting pressure and something is cocking the CPU in the socket.

 

[smorizio]

try ruling out a dead short. try the mb outside the case with one ram stick and the power supply. see if it post with onboard video only. if it does make sure the io shield and standoffs are not shorting the mb out.

 

[ccfonzie]

Thanks guys for all the help - it's appreciated.I'll take it out of the case today and see if it can boot? I seriously doubt it will post. Sound like theirs been a run of these DOA boards hitting door steps (even though a 5 egg review). Darkbreeze, no I don't have another CPU for this socket.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I didn't ask if you had another CPU. I asked if you had another CPU COOLER. Either way though, it was just part of the equation. Just trying to figure out little things that might have made testing easier on the bench for you.

It probably IS a board issue, but it's always best to verify that as much as possible so you don't end up sending the board and waiting to get one back, and then find out you have the exact same issue with the replacement and start pulling hair out.

 

[ccfonzie]

It was the board (ugh). Hate to wait 2 weeks to get it back from ASROCK. Newegg wouldn't take it back since it was 32 days old (ugh). Works flawlessly, did Intel Burn Test's, Bench marked it on Passmark Score 6312 99-95 percentile on all. Seems stable did some gaming.... Solid

Idaling 37-41 c...Gaming 60c's hit 71c once... Intel Burn Test max Temps Stress Level Very High 74-78c (majority of time). Hit 80c for a split second. Not overclocked yet. Thanks for the help guys, esp DARKBREEZ!

 

[Darkbreeze]

My advice would be, get RID of that cooler. Sell it, give it away, throw it in the trash, whatever you need to do, and get a real, good unit.

No offense, really, not trying to be insulting to you at all, but that "bastard" of a cooler is one of the all time worst CPU cooler failures ever. It can't even outperform a small, low end, budget air cooler like the Thermalright true spirit 120, which is a good budget cooler, but is not a performance model. It beats that cooler you have by a long shot.

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8091/cooler-master-masterliquid-maker-92-cpu-review/index6.html


Seriously, you could have WAY better temps than that with a fifty dollar cooler. Spend 85 bucks, or less, and your top temps would likely look more like 65-68°C, while running Prime 95 Small FFT or IBT.

 

[ccfonzie]

LOL...Really? It's that bad? I will invest in another cooler if you say! My temps are not bad.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, let's be realistic. Your temps are not out of spec. But, they are not good. If my system ever reached 80 degrees I would be looking to find out what was wrong.

Core temps above 85 degrees are BAD. Core temps AT 80 degrees, are getting VERY borderline.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

Maybe things can be improved using mostly what you have or changing some configuration settings. What is your case model, how many case fans do you have, in what orientation are each of your case fans and what kind of profile are your case fans and CPU cooler fan set to?