FX-6300 and Biostar A960D+ Bios and Settings Cool and Quiet

coxmn · Jan 31, 2018

All,
I found this website recently this is my first post.

I have an older PC with the FX-6300 and Biostar A960D+ mobo. I haven't been using the computer much lately but it always seemed to be locked up when I needed it. Turns out the case fan and the video card fan both quit. I cleaned the dust and replaced these and became interested in the heat because the computer crashed a few times after this. I realized I needed to run the cpu fan at max instead of smart fan mode to keep it from getting hot.

Now with smart fan disabled, at idle it stays in the 30s or low 40s. I have the stock cooler and I do not overclock. I have been reading about it though. I like to fix things and can't help trying to get this computer running better.

So my question/problem is my bios doesn't have any settings for this cool and quiet mode, or turbo. I can't find them anyway. I am running windows 10 64. I updated the bios from the biostar website using the usb drive and F12. I can't see any difference at all except it changed the system time to military time and changed the bios date. How can I get to the advanced settings for this chip? The motherboard claims to support cool and quiet but I cant find it.

I may want to overclock it sometime and I will add a new cpu cooler.

Darkbreeze · Jan 31, 2018

Honestly, that is an extremely basic, lower end motherboard. Based on the user manual for that board there are no user configurable Cool N Quiet settings available in the bios, so it's likely that it is not an option you can change and is either enabled already or not present.

There are some things you can do though. First, customize the power profile in Windows.

Go into control panel by typing "control" in the run command on the start menu. Open power options. If the Performance profile is not currently selected, then select it. Next to the performance profile click on "Change plan settings".

Next, click "Change advanced power settings".

Scroll down to processor power management and click the + next to minimum, change the value to 5%. Make sure the maximum is set to 100%. Make sure the system cooling policy is set to active. Save settings and exit the control panel applications. Restart the system.

Also, getting a better cooler now might be a good idea. The stock FX coolers were not very good. There are MUCH better options available for very reasonable prices. Knowing your case model and what height of cooler it can support will be necessary in order to make a recommendation.

If you can get an AMD Wraith cooler, that would be an improvement but you will not want to do any overclocking with it. In fact, if you are overheating currently, you likely would be wise to not even consider overclocking until you are sure that the thermals are within expected range for normal operation first.

Furthermore, you would also be wise to remove the side panel of the case and see if that affects your thermal readings. If it does, you need to address the fact that you do not have sufficient case cooling and that no CPU cooler, no matter how good, is going to work well unless you have at the VERY least, one intake fan and one exhaust fan. Intake should be at the lower front of the case, exhaust should be at the back of the case.

Better still would be two intakes and an additional top exhaust aside from the rear exhaust. Testing with the case side panel off should tell much of the story though.

You might also want to seriously consider getting a better motherboard, if one can be found used for a good price. There is very little point in buying a new motherboard for that platform as it is already fairly old, supplies and stock for new AM3 and AM3+ boards is extremely limited due to the fact that they are not being manufactured anymore and the additional consideration that any money you put into it beyond a used board or cheap cooler is probably a waste, since it could have been put towards something much newer.

Still, sometimes limited budgets dictate what we can and cannot do, so making that system work better/right might be the best choice.

coxmn · Jan 31, 2018

Darkbreeze :

Honestly, that is an extremely basic, lower end motherboard. Based on the user manual for that board there are no user configurable Cool N Quiet settings available in the bios, so it's likely that it is not an option you can change and is either enabled already or not present.

There are some things you can do though. First, customize the power profile in Windows.

Go into control panel by typing "control" in the run command on the start menu. Open power options. If the Performance profile is not currently selected, then select it. Next to the performance profile click on "Change plan settings".

Next, click "Change advanced power settings".

Scroll down to processor power management and click the + next to minimum, change the value to 5%. Make sure the maximum is set to 100%. Make sure the system cooling policy is set to active. Save settings and exit the control panel applications. Restart the system.

Also, getting a better cooler now might be a good idea. The stock FX coolers were not very good. There are MUCH better options available for very reasonable prices. Knowing your case model and what height of cooler it can support will be necessary in order to make a recommendation.

If you can get an AMD Wraith cooler, that would be an improvement but you will not want to do any overclocking with it. In fact, if you are overheating currently, you likely would be wise to not even consider overclocking until you are sure that the thermals are within expected range for normal operation first.

Furthermore, you would also be wise to remove the side panel of the case and see if that affects your thermal readings. If it does, you need to address the fact that you do not have sufficient case cooling and that no CPU cooler, no matter how good, is going to work well unless you have at the VERY least, one intake fan and one exhaust fan. Intake should be at the lower front of the case, exhaust should be at the back of the case.

Better still would be two intakes and an additional top exhaust aside from the rear exhaust. Testing with the case side panel off should tell much of the story though.

You might also want to seriously consider getting a better motherboard, if one can be found used for a good price. There is very little point in buying a new motherboard for that platform as it is already fairly old, supplies and stock for new AM3 and AM3+ boards is extremely limited due to the fact that they are not being manufactured anymore and the additional consideration that any money you put into it beyond a used board or cheap cooler is probably a waste, since it could have been put towards something much newer.

Still, sometimes limited budgets dictate what we can and cannot do, so making that system work better/right might be the best choice.

Darkbreeze · Jan 31, 2018

If you wish to quote a reply, and include an answer, don't use the buttons. Just click the text that says "Reply to xxxx" next to the buttons. It will quote the text and you can click below that to type your answer then click the "Answer" button when finished.

If you wish to just reply normally, with no quote, click into the box below the last post on any thread, that says "Your answer", then type your message and click Submit your answer.

coxmn · Jan 31, 2018

Darkbreeze,
Thanks for the in depth answer. I appreciate your time.
I will try the advanced power settings and also test with the case open. I only have one case fan in the back blowing out. The air never feels warm coming out though.
I ordered this computer already built 5 years ago from Amazon for light gaming. I do most of my gaming on PS3 and PS4 though.
If I can keep it from crashing I am ok with the fan noise, but if the power settings help maybe I can slow the fans down.
I added some silver thermal paste to an amazon order. Is it really useful to put new paste on the processor? Worth a try I guess for cheap.
Thanks!

Darkbreeze · Jan 31, 2018

Yes, the cooler needs to have the paste applied correctly and in the right amount. It also needs to be cleaned off using isopropyl alcohol and reapplied every few years. Use no more than what is about equal to two grains of long grain wild rice, dead center, or about 1/4 the size of a new #2 pencil eraser. That is plenty.

There are a lot of tutorials online showing the proper methods for cleaning off the old paste. I recommend NOT using Q-tips to clean off the old paste, despite what you see on many videos, as they tend to leave fibers behind that can affect the displacement of the thermal paste when you mount the CPU cooler.

Make sure that the CPU cooler is EVENLY seated all the way around when done. If it is not, then there is a problem.

coxmn · Feb 1, 2018

Turns out I didn't clean the processor heatsink properly. I tried to vacuum everything when I replaced the fans, but it wasn't good enough. Last night I dug out the air compressor and blew out the heatsink. So much dust was in it I had to hold my breath to keep from inhaling it. Couldn't really see it under the fan. Now it is running just above room temp with the fans turned down. I still have the side off but I am pretty sure my heat problem is fixed.
Thanks

Darkbreeze · Feb 1, 2018

In the future, don't ever use a vaccum on ANY computer system or component. Glad you got it sorted, hopefully, but THIS is an important consideration.

Avoid using a vacuum if possible as vacuums are known to create static electricity that can, in some cases, zap small components.

Other areas that may benefit from a cleaning include fans, power supply internals, storage and optical drives, the motherboard surfaces and RAM. Keeping the inside of your rig clean is a high priority and should be done on a regular basis using 90 psi or lower compressed air from a compressor or compressed canned air.

Use common sense based on what PSU your compressor is set to. Don't "blast" your motherboard or hardware to pieces. Start from an adequate distance until you can judge what is enough to just get the job done. When using canned air use only short blasts moving from place to place frequently to avoid "frosting" components.

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