Do you have the low power C states disabled in the BIOS? That PSU does not support the low power Haswell C states because it is group regulated and cannot meet the criteria for the crossloading and resumption of C7 low power state. Likely this is not the exact problem you are having, but it could be A problem, and technically, COULD be loosely related.
If you do not, I would go into the bios and disable C6/C7 OR get a newer PSU that supports Haswell and newer low power C states. None of the 520w or 620w Seasonic built units are Haswell compatible.
Good power supplies, just not for Haswell and newer Intel builds.
Given your circumstances and without further testing I'm tempted to suspect the PSU and graphics card anyhow. Replacing the PSU, which might be a good idea in ANY case, might be likely to determine that one way or the other.
Short of just doing that, you can also do idle screenshots (After five minutes of letting the system "relax" after a cold boot) and then again another set of screenshots (Usually takes 3 screenshots to get all of the sensors if you expand the HWinfo window from top to bottom of your screen) with the system under a Heaven benchmark load. Wait until about a minute into the benchmark to take the load screenshots.
HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are not terribly accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with some chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.
CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.
HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.
In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:
*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums
Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.
Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.
After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.
*Download HWinfo
For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:
*Download Core Temp
When it comes to temperature issues, especially if this is a build that has been running for a year or more, taking care of the basics first might save everybody involved a lot of time and frustration.
Check the CPU fan heatsink for dust accumulation and blow or clean out as necessary. Avoid using a vacuum if possible as vacuums are known to create static electricity that can, in some cases, zap small components.
Other areas that may benefit from a cleaning include fans, power supply internals, storage and optical drives, the motherboard surfaces and RAM. Keeping the inside of your rig clean is a high priority and should be done on a regular basis using 90 psi or lower compressed air from a compressor or compressed canned air.
Use common sense based on what PSU your compressor is set to. Don't "blast" your motherboard or hardware to pieces. Start from an adequate distance until you can judge what is enough to just get the job done. When using canned air use only short blasts moving from place to place frequently to avoid "frosting" components.
Also, it might very much be worth doing a clean install of the GPU card drivers using safe mode and the DDU. Just updating graphics card drivers without getting rid of all the previous files and registry settings sometimes causes more problems than it solves, so it's a good idea to do the following and start with a clean slate. Be sure to download the DDU AND the latest driver files FIRST.
How to boot into safe mode in Windows 10
*Graphics card CLEAN install tutorial using the DDU*
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