Is this PSU causing my graphics card to crash? DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED

mrlknowles

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Jan 30, 2018
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For a few weeks I've had a crashing problem when in games, and i've had multiple different errors coming up, the latest one was "DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED"
but I've been having multiple crashes on multiple games, and i've got a new harddrive and windows/drivers and still getting the errors, so now i'm wondering if it's the psu or not.

PC:
12GB DDR4 Ram
i5-8600k
gtx 780 TI
MSI z370-a-pro
Corsair VS550

I'm beginning to wonder whether the system is just taking too much power and the GPU is crashing every so often, as soon as the game crashes I reload and can play again for a while, the crashes are random but consistent atleast every hour or so.

Another error I get when playing Overwatch is "your rendering device has been lost"

Having done some PSU calculators, it looks as though my system is recommending under 500 watts but I know psu' are a bit more complicated than just wattage.

Is it enough or should I upgrade? or is this a completely different issue?
 
Solution
We might be able to pick something out from the onboard sensor readings. If you feel like you want to try and see if anything shows up, you can take screenshots of the HWinfo sensors, usually takes three shots to get all of the sensors while scrolling down twice, at idle and at as much of a gaming load or while running Heaven benchmark, as possible, and then posting them here, I'd be glad to take a look and see if anything jumps out.

This is my typical copy pasta on this, so you can ignore the parts that don't apply to you, like probably cleaning the CPU cooler etc.


HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are not terribly accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate...
Recommended capacity is 600w for that setup. Yes, that is a little more than what is actually needed, but those figures are exaggerated for a reason.

Are you overclocking anything? CPU? GPU card?

The VS series units are not particularly good, and definitely don't last too long when paired with gaming cards so it's very possible that the PSU is the issue.

Have you tried doing a clean install of the graphics drivers using the DDU? IN safe mode?

Did you do a clean install of Windows when you got the new hard drive or did you clone your old installation?

How many memory modules do you have, are they all the same size, same brand, same model numbers?

Was all the memory purchased together in a matched set or are they unmatched, different memory modules?

Do you have your OLD hard drive connected to the system and when you installed Windows, was that hard drive attached to the system when you installed? If it IS attached and still in use, did you wipe ALL of the existing partitions from that drive? Including the hidden boot partition?

Have you updated your motherboard bios to the lastest version?
 

mrlknowles

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Jan 30, 2018
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- No overclocks,
- All ram bought in a set and matches,
- Complete fresh install of windows,
- Brand new hard drive and windows so no clone.
- Because of this the drivers are all brand new as well, had the issue before the new HD and windows (I upgraded the system)
- Have not updated the bios but had the same issue on the old motherboard (never updated bios before)
 
How many memory modules do you have and what sizes are they? I'm guessing you have three 4GB modules? You bought a triple channel set?

Based on what you are telling me though, about the only thing common to your previous setup and your new one is the PSU and graphics card, and the PSU would be the primary culprit but there is every chance this could be a faulty graphics card too, or even both.

Poor quality power supply can cripple a motherboard or graphics card in fairly short order. Especially if the filtering is not working correctly and your hardware is seeing exceedingly high levels of ripple. That can take out caps in a hurry.

How old is that PSU, how long in service?

How old is the graphics card?

Probably should update the bios in any case. Always a good idea especially these days where they don't do a lot of beta testing and expect users to update after problems are found and fixes are released in new bios versions. This is a lot more common these days since bios updates don't generally result in a high risk of bricking the system like they did in the old days.

 

mrlknowles

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Jan 30, 2018
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yeah 3x 4gb, they are a duel and a single, GPU is about 4 years old and the PSU about the same I think (got the psu from a friend)
 
If the PSU was already used before you got it, and the GPU is about four years old, I'd lean even further towards the PSU than before. Still, it's kind of a crapshoot unless you can borrow another graphics card or PSU to try and eliminate something.
 

mrlknowles

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Jan 30, 2018
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I will see if I can borrow either to eliminate the issue, but I also am swaying toward the PSU, appreciate your help
 
We might be able to pick something out from the onboard sensor readings. If you feel like you want to try and see if anything shows up, you can take screenshots of the HWinfo sensors, usually takes three shots to get all of the sensors while scrolling down twice, at idle and at as much of a gaming load or while running Heaven benchmark, as possible, and then posting them here, I'd be glad to take a look and see if anything jumps out.

This is my typical copy pasta on this, so you can ignore the parts that don't apply to you, like probably cleaning the CPU cooler etc.


HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, CPU-Z and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are not terribly accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with some chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. Always select the "Sensors only" option when running HWinfo.

In cases where it is relevant and you are seeking help, then in order to help you, it's often necessary to SEE what's going on, in the event one of us can pick something out that seems out of place, or other indicators that just can't be communicated via a text only post. In these cases, posting an image of the HWinfo sensors or something else can be extremely helpful. That may not be the case in YOUR thread, but if it is then the information at the following link will show you how to do that:

*How to post images in Tom's hardware forums



Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

*Download HWinfo


For temperature monitoring only, I feel Core Temp is the most accurate and also offers a quick visual reference for core speed, load and CPU voltage:

*Download Core Temp

When it comes to temperature issues, especially if this is a build that has been running for a year or more, taking care of the basics first might save everybody involved a lot of time and frustration.

Check the CPU fan heatsink for dust accumulation and blow or clean out as necessary. Avoid using a vacuum if possible as vacuums are known to create static electricity that can, in some cases, zap small components.

Other areas that may benefit from a cleaning include fans, power supply internals, storage and optical drives, the motherboard surfaces and RAM. Keeping the inside of your rig clean is a high priority and should be done on a regular basis using 90 psi or lower compressed air from a compressor or compressed canned air.

Use common sense based on what PSU your compressor is set to. Don't "blast" your motherboard or hardware to pieces. Start from an adequate distance until you can judge what is enough to just get the job done. When using canned air use only short blasts moving from place to place frequently to avoid "frosting" components.
 
Solution