Gigabyte H55M-USB3 Wont start without starting ritual.. (HELP)

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popovic702

Feb 15, 2018
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Hello to everyone, I have strange problem with my computer:

When I press the power button on front nothing is happening, computer seems to be dead.
I tried with only 1 stick of ram in various slots on mb and shortened front pwr_button pins to be sure that case pw button is ok, still wont turn on.

Then I disconnected psu from the board and shortened green/black wires on 24pin connector-PSU started, I measured voltages and it seems to be all good

After few hours and million attempts to start mb by shorting the pw pins it started with one normal post beep and booted windows.
So I run hw manager and other programs to monitor computer voltages and temperatures, everything seems to be normal..

Then I shut down computer, put all ram memories, connected front power button and it started normally by pressing the button.
I tried to turn it off and on a couple of times and it worked normally, then I turned it off and went to sleep.

Next morning I pressed pw button and nothing happened, I opened the case and reconnected all connectors, computer still wont turn on..
Then I tried reconnecting 24pin connector while PSU switch is on (ON) position and while I was putting connector back all fans and lights and HDD went on for half a second, I tried to press pw button and again nothing..

Then I disconnected 24pin connector and while putting it back I stopped when connector was half way connected and I get lights and fans turning on and off every half a second in a loop

The next thing I did is pressing the power button on the same time when fans and lights come on and forcing 24pin connector all way in.

after few attemps, connecting and disconnecting 24pin connector and pressing pw button in the SAME time it continued to work for a second, turned off for second and started normally by itself, booted windows and all worked normally.

I also tried connecting green/black wires on 24pin connector while its connected to mb and it turn all fans but no boot and no post beep..

So every time I want to start computer I have to pull out 24pin connector, put it half way in and when computer starts to loop I have to press the pw button and force connector all way in in the same moment and it will start.

This don't work from 1st attempt but if I do it couple times I get the right moment and pc starts.. When pc start it work normally and everything is ok until I turn it off and leave it for some time, then sometimes it will start by pressing pw button sometimes not.

If I turn it off and disconnect power cable for few seconds it will not start by pressing pw button but it will start by tricking it with ritual I explained above.

I tried with two other psu , other ram, hdd, reseting bios, adding gpu and it still wont start like it shoud.

Is there anyone who can help me?

My Hardware:
MB: Gigabyte H55M-USB3 v2.0
CPU: Intel Core i5 661
RAM: 2x 4GB Hyperx DDR3
HDD: WD 1TB
PSU: Steg 350w
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
DDR4 is currently the killer when it comes to thinking about an upgrade, at least if you already have a decent GPU card or don't need one.

Double the price in most cases, from what it was last year.

Unfortunately, unlike in years past when you could upgrade to something that was older, but still newer than what you currently had, that is not the case most of the time anymore. Even platforms as new as Haswell, that DO still use DDR3, are almost impossible to find at anything like a reasonable price because they are just mostly all gone. At some point you might have to bite the bullet and start looking at Skylake or newer systems, or Ryzen, but that will require DDR4 which is going to jack the price of anything you get by a substantial...
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ragnar-gd

ragnar-gd

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Sep 30, 2014
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From many uses of a simple voltmeter on my power-outlet, i know that all PCs use a peak-power when booting, and the power-usage slowly drops to an idle value once the Operating systems does its magic.
Perhaps your PSU is ageing, and, also providing enough power for "idle" use, just barely has enough juice for the booting phase.
A good idea to check this is to pull out your highly overclocked Titan 2000 1200W GPU with three 12-pin power-connectors, and put in, i.e., a 730 GT (passive, feeds just from PCIe-slot). You know what i mean... ? ;)
When then your machine boots like it never did, consider beefing up/exchanging your PSU.

This is for a start, i have more ideas... ;)
 
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popovic702

Feb 15, 2018
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Thanks for fast answer,

I dont have a GPU in this machine, it work with integrated (CPU) graphic.. PSU i tried was "RECOM" 600w unit from my other pc and some chinese psu (450w) which i keep home for emergency

Problem remains the same
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Jun 24, 2014
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If your PSU is as old as your motherboard, certainly either of them could be failing. Your voltage measurements don't mean a whole lot in the grand scheme of things because those are unloaded readings and you have no idea what it's doing under load.

Your motherboard, or any other component on that system could be past the point of no return due to it's age, although motherboard and PSU would be the primary and most likely suspects since those are the two items I see listed that make obvious use of capacitors which definitely have a finite lifespan.

That motherboard is likely at or near 8 years old, and the PSU likely is as well. That's a pretty good run for those components. Might be time to start thinking about another PSU AND possibly either upgrading or trying to find a replacement new old stock motherboard.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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So long as you have low end cheap chinese off brand power supplies installed, you will not really be able to make any kind of determination as to what is wrong, other than stuff doesn't work right. You need to get a good, trustworthy PSU that is of at least good enough quality that you can say you are pretty sure any remaining problem isn't caused by that.

If you need a recommendation on a quality unit, we will need to know what country you are in and where you can potentially purchase from, even if that is only local shops.
 
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ragnar-gd

ragnar-gd

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There are more things to test, but, sadly, you need someone with spare parts. If you tested with different PSUs already, as you say, the MoBo is a good candidate for being "damaged" (or degrading from age - its at least 8 years old, right?).
I'd start with testing your RAM in another PC, perhaps at a friend or so.
(I see darkbreeze had the same ideas, basically).
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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I'd just about guarantee this is either a PSU or motherboard issue, and I'm betting on the PSU. You'd need a good one to do any further type of process by elimination testing ANYHOW so it's a good idea to start there first. You can't solve a problem by replacing a poor power supply with another poor power supply, at least, not most of the time.
 
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popovic702

Feb 15, 2018
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Tonight im going to test my ram in another pc to see is it good.
Im also going to try with Corsair CX-750M PSU which is nearly brand new

yes, its about 7-8 years old configuration and psu is the shittiest part of it xD
I live in Serbia and i was looking for replacement mobo but there are only few with 1156 socket and price is huge when you compare it to other sockets..

Is it possible (safe) to test voltages when pc is running/starting

*EDIT* - And is it possible to inspect mobo with multimeter for bad electrical components? Thanks

 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Jun 24, 2014
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DDR4 is currently the killer when it comes to thinking about an upgrade, at least if you already have a decent GPU card or don't need one.

Double the price in most cases, from what it was last year.

Unfortunately, unlike in years past when you could upgrade to something that was older, but still newer than what you currently had, that is not the case most of the time anymore. Even platforms as new as Haswell, that DO still use DDR3, are almost impossible to find at anything like a reasonable price because they are just mostly all gone. At some point you might have to bite the bullet and start looking at Skylake or newer systems, or Ryzen, but that will require DDR4 which is going to jack the price of anything you get by a substantial amount.


CMOS battery is unlikely to cause the issues you are having, but anything is possible when the motherboard won't retain it's settings, especially on older systems. So it's worth a shot.
 
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