Gaming PC Setup: Various Questions

scrancher · Feb 25, 2018

Hi everyone!

After a long time of research, asking, calling, writing and chatting with a lot of people (Aeacus being a HUGE help!), I have finally purchased my first ever gaming pc and setup.
I am a bit of a perfectionist, and have some sort of OCD tendencies with hardware (as well as bad luck with hardware). My PC retailer, and indeed the other OEM retailers etc., haven't been much help at all, so I turn to you, the experts, to ask help with a lot of varied questions!

I appreciate all the help you guys can dish out. Thanks in advance!

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PC, Hardware and Periphiral Questions:
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Full specs:
GPU: Asus Rog Strix GTX 1080 Ti 11GB.
CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K.
Mobo: Asus Z370 Prime-P.
RAM: G. Skill Ripjaws DDR4 3000Mhz 15CL 16GB (2x8).
PSU: Corsair TX650W Gold.
SSD: Samsung 960 PCIe NVMe 250GB.
HDD: Toshiba P1000 7200RPM 1TB.
Case: Fractal Design Define S /Window.
AIO CPU Cooler: Asetek LPX 591.
OS: Windows 10 Home 64bit.
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Monitor: Asus Rog Swift PG279Q 27'' LED IPS @165Hz.
Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB Platinum Speed.
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Elite (1600Dpi).
Mouse Mat: Razer Vespula Version 1.
Headset: Steelseries (old model).
Surround Sound: Old Creative 5.1 surround sound system.
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Setup: The AIO intake is mounted in the front. 1 x Fractal Fan (included with the case) at the top back for exhaust.
Keyboard is plugged into 2 x SS USB ports on the rear side. Mouse is plugged into the keyboards 1 x 2.0 USB port.
Monitor is plugged into the display port. Headset is plugged into the backside jack port.
Room temperature is around 23 degrees celcius.
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General:
1. Is there any difference between USB SS ports (blue colored) and USB 3.0 ports (black colored), or are they indeed the same?
2. Does it make any difference whatsoever of which USB port/s I use to plug in my Razer mouse, Corsair keyboard or my Steelseries headset on my Fractal case?
E.g. Keyboard plugged into 2 x SS USB ports at the backside of my case; or my mouse into the keyboards integrated 1 x USB (2.0) port, or mix match the combo of any of the many USB ports I have?

Monitor:
1. My screen flickers a good 5-6 times at every pc bootup (G-sync related?), but as I have returned the monitor for a new one (which does the exact same) I wonder if there is settings or something to fix this?
2. In same line as above, the screen also flickers during games at different times. Also when browsing and changing tabs. Does it when minimizing to the windows desktop and basically everytime it has to load a new ''screen''.
3. I know that dead or bright pixels as well as IPS glow and backlight bleed are kinda standard and common for this monitor, but is there anything that can be done to fix that?
4. Is there any way to have G-sync enabled, but change the panel foot's light to any other color?
5. Is it normal that on white background, the screen (at close inspection) kinda looks smeared, as if water has been attempted dried and washed away with a dry piece of LED cloth?

Settings:
1. With those specs etc., what would the ideal all-around settings be in the UEFI BIOS? Both fan curves and general settings.
2. Again, with those specs etc. what would the ideal and best settings be in the NVIDIA GeForce control panel?

Temperatures:
1. Only using Speccy and the built-in Task Manager -> Performance checker, is it normal (and perhaps even low and good) that my GPU reaches around 70 degrees celsius while gaming at highest settings possible on the 165Hz monitor?
2. Using Speccy, and taking Playerunknown's Battlegrounds at highest settings as the example, my CPU's temperature (degrees celsius) will reach the low 40's, GPU 69-70, Mobo around 35, and SSD around 33. Is this normal and good?
3. I only have PUBG and World of Warcraft: Legion currently installed. Wow has around the same temperatures as above, although a little lower overall.
4. The highest temperatures I have seen, are: CPU 45 degrees, GPU 70, Mobo 40, SSD 38. Are those in the good range?
5. Is it normal, that my temps while idle are around: CPU 30, GPU 50, Mobo 30, SSD 30?

Keyboard:
1. Some of my keyboard keys (especially the A key) flickers ocassionally. I have tried both CUE 1 and 2, reset it all, updated it and the drivers. I only use the Rainbow (going rightward ->) at slowest pace possible.

Mouse:
1. Is it me being picky, or is there any changes of how the mouse cable lies? Currently, (plugged to an SS USB port at the case rear) the cable kinda archs like a C, and I feel higher force required to move it to the right.
It seemed about the same, when I had the cable spiraling around the monitor base, and plugged into the keyboard (arching like a reversed C). Does cable placement matter at all?

Audio:
1. Is there a way to have the monitors built-in speakers available, while also having my headset as an option, and my surround sound as the third pickable option?

___
P.s. I have most likely forgotten some questions, spec details etc. Feel free to ask for more info, pictures or short videos!

k1114 · Feb 25, 2018

General:
1. Is there any difference between USB SS ports (blue colored) and USB 3.0 ports (black colored), or are they indeed the same?
They are the same.
2. Does it make any difference whatsoever of which USB port/s I use to plug in my Razer mouse, Corsair keyboard or my Steelseries headset on my Fractal case?
No.

Monitor:
1. My screen flickers a good 5-6 times at every pc bootup (G-sync related?), but as I have returned the monitor for a new one (which does the exact same) I wonder if there is settings or something to fix this?
2. In same line as above, the screen also flickers during games at different times. Also when browsing and changing tabs. Does it when minimizing to the windows desktop and basically everytime it has to load a new ''screen''.
This is for both 1 and 2. There is going to be more troubleshooting to figure this out. It could be software, bad part or even just a loose cable. Do you have any other monitors to confirm everything else is working and it's only that monitor?
3. I know that dead or bright pixels as well as IPS glow and backlight bleed are kinda standard and common for this monitor, but is there anything that can be done to fix that?
None of that is standard besides ips glow which is just because of ips. But there is no way to fix the others. You return it and get a replacement.
4. Is there any way to have G-sync enabled, but change the panel foot's light to any other color?
No as it's color is based on mode. You can turn it off though.
5. Is it normal that on white background, the screen (at close inspection) kinda looks smeared, as if water has been attempted dried and washed away with a dry piece of LED cloth?
No and you seem to have multiple monitor issues. I would probably start thinking you have a faulty one if other monitors work fine.

Settings:
1. With those specs etc., what would the ideal all-around settings be in the UEFI BIOS? Both fan curves and general settings.
If temps aren't an issue, you can leave it alone.
2. Again, with those specs etc. what would the ideal and best settings be in the NVIDIA GeForce control panel?
Default is best.

Temperatures:
1. Only using Speccy and the built-in Task Manager -> Performance checker, is it normal (and perhaps even low and good) that my GPU reaches around 70 degrees celsius while gaming at highest settings possible on the 165Hz monitor?
2. Using Speccy, and taking Playerunknown's Battlegrounds at highest settings as the example, my CPU's temperature (degrees celsius) will reach the low 40's, GPU 69-70, Mobo around 35, and SSD around 33. Is this normal and good?
3. I only have PUBG and World of Warcraft: Legion currently installed. Wow has around the same temperatures as above, although a little lower overall.
4. The highest temperatures I have seen, are: CPU 45 degrees, GPU 70, Mobo 40, SSD 38. Are those in the good range?
5. Is it normal, that my temps while idle are around: CPU 30, GPU 50, Mobo 30, SSD 30?
These are all the same question. Cpu load temp seems lower than expected but you can stress test and get an ideal of how high it'll go. They are all good temps except gpu idle should be as low as the others. Check to make sure it's downclocking.

Keyboard:
1. Some of my keyboard keys (especially the A key) flickers ocassionally. I have tried both CUE 1 and 2, reset it all, updated it and the drivers. I only use the Rainbow (going rightward ->) at slowest pace possible.
It's an issue with the keyboard rgb controller on the k95. Try enabling/disabling the 16.8 million color mode otherwise, there is nothing you can do besides getting a different keyboard.

Mouse:
1. Is it me being picky, or is there any changes of how the mouse cable lies? Currently, (plugged to an SS USB port at the case rear) the cable kinda archs like a C, and I feel higher force required to move it to the right.
It seemed about the same, when I had the cable spiraling around the monitor base, and plugged into the keyboard (arching like a reversed C). Does cable placement matter at all?
If the mouse cable doesn't have the slack to move freely, of course it won't move as easily. Otherwise how a cable sits doesn't matter.

Audio:
1. Is there a way to have the monitors built-in speakers available, while also having my headset as an option, and my surround sound as the third pickable option?
They should be all be an option if connected. Check in playback devices to see what is connected.

scrancher · Feb 26, 2018

Hi k1114, and thank you a bunch for taking your time to thoroughly and precisely answer all of my questions!

I will comment / reply to all the answers you have provided me with, and perhaps ask a few new ones, if that is OK. (I will mark new ones with either A), B) etc. or an '*').

General:
1 & 2. Okay, great! I feared that could be the reason for the flickering keyboard keys. Just to have it clarified; SS USB will only make a difference if one are transfering files to or from the computer, right?

Monitor:
1 & 2. Yeah, I can understand that. Unfortunately, the Asus monitor is the only one I have. Could it be G-sync related somehow? I've read that somewhere.
Anyway, I have checked the cable, replugged it and so (I only have the display port in, not HDMI or other such types), I went to the Asus website and downloaded the driver (prior to that, the Asus monitor didn't show up under device manager). I returned the old monitor to get a new one, which has the exact same problems, so doubt it is the screen itself?
3. Oh, okay. I suppose it is my bad hardware luck striking again :-/.
4. Okay. No big deal

5. It's hard to describe exactly, but (on white backgrounds) I can only explain it as, that it looks like a few drops of water has been splashed on the screen, and it has been dried off, but leaving behind a kind of rainbow colored facade. Makes sense?

Settings:
1. Although my PC retailer has been very quiet, and are late to, and are uninformative in his answers, he has stated that he has set it up. However, I went in to check, and I enabled Intel Storage (which was ticked off), thinking it was an ovesight on his part. I later found out, that it should just be ticked off, so I went to BIOS again, and did a default (F5) reset. I fear I have messed up the settings my retailer set. Would that be the case?
2. Okay. So I should just go in there, reset all to default, and then switch back on G-sync and 165Hz, right?

Temperatures:
1, 2, 3, 4 & 5. Okay, that's a relief! As the topic about temperatures are my main concern, I took 7 different screenshots of the temps in Speccy, which I hope will clarify this. It is taken during a World of Warcraft: Legion (max settings) session, after, pc at idle, after restart etc.

Picture 1 - WoW gaming session spec temperatures after about 2½ hours + wowhead in browser:

Picture 2 - Around 30 minutes later from pic 1:

Picture 3 - Closed the game, its launcher and the browser, and let it stand idle for around 10 min since pic 2:

Picture 4 - Standing idle (save for speccy) for close to 30 minutes since pic 3:

Picture 5 - Fully shut down the power, rear power button and the wall socket immedietly after pic 4, and booted up the pc ~2½ hours later, and took this pic as soon as it had booted up:

Picture 6 - After standing idle with only Speccy open for about 1½ hour, this is the temperatures. GPU heated up, for some reason:

So yeah, it seems that the GPU is having a hard time venting the heat? I have no clue how to fix this, and if it is a downclock issue as you mentioned?

Keyboard:
1. A) Oh my. So this will affect every single K95 keyboard, even when I return it for a new?
B) I have tried to check the settings, but neither in CUE 1 nor version 2, can I see anything called 16.8 million color mode?
C) What will the difference be with 16.8 million color mode turned off. Less colors, less vibrance or?

Mouse:
1. Of course, but it is not that. It has plenty of space to move freely across my Razer Vespula (version 1) Control-sided Mat (which I fear can be the cause?).
* 2. The mouse seems a bit wobbly, actually. Is that normal, or could it be the mouse mat? (I did check that the mat isn't angled or anything ofc).

Audio:
1. Ah, okay. Nice!

k1114 · Feb 26, 2018

No one calls it ss usb. If you mean to compare 2.0 vs 3.0 then anything that uses more than 30MB/s as that's about the max of 2.0.

If you think it's gsync then disable it but gsync doesn't activate except in directx so I doubt that's it. The visual issue is still a faulty panel.

If you selected to reset the bios then it's at default. Why were you messing with settings in nvidia control panel? The monitor issues? Then yes reset it and change what you need to.

You can check gpu clocks with gpuz or msi afterburner. You only need to see what's happening at idle since that's the only issue. I forgot to mention the fans probably turn off at idle so could also be the cause. Those software will also show fan speed.

Honestly I don't know much about the issue with k95. It was just a common issue people were having with it and I don't know if they might have fixed it with new ones. You may want to contact corsair support to see what they say.

You can easily check if the mat is the cause. A mouse would work fine on just about any flat surface. I don't know what you mean by wobbly mouse. I don't see how that's going to affect how much force is needed to move it.

scrancher · Feb 27, 2018

Just a quick note to the pictures I posted. It all seems within range and normal, except for the GPU idle temps, right?

k1114 · Feb 27, 2018

I ignored your pics because they add no new info. Idle is the only issue as previously mentioned.

scrancher · Feb 28, 2018

To answer the other replies you made:

1. I just didn't know that it was 3.0, as it simply said SS above the USB port on my case.

2. I am not sure at all. That is just what I had read somewhere. But my GPU is basically made to use G-sync in synchronizing with the monitor, so shouldn't be the problem, really.
Have you any suggestions to what can be the cause, with my trial'n'error tries I posted above? As stated earlier, I did return the monitor to get a brand new one, which has the EXACT same problems, so I honestly doubt both monitors was faulty. Suggestions are much obliged!

3. Okay, that is a relief. I did have to manually press the RAM XMP profile though, so that is why I fear there are other settings I have to manually adjust or enable, after I default reset the BIOS?
I did it because I followed a guide on how to best set up the control panel settings for my rig, as well as trying to fix the monitor issue. I noticed that an option to Ancor the monitor was available, and I swear it wasn't there a day before. So I am still wondering if some other settings have to be manually set, after a restore default in the nvidia control panel?

4. Would you recommend for me to download those programs? I doubt I would get much out of it myself, but if it can help clear this issue, I will do it

True. I did notice that the GPU fans are not spinning before it hits like 50+ degrees. But still shouldn't run at those temps idle, for hours straight.

5. No problems about the keyboard. I wrote a ticket to Corsair, and they provided me with a full hardware and software reset guide, which involves deleting some files too. I have yet to try that out, so will post an update later on

6. It doesn't seem like the mat is the problem, but I was just throwing it there as a question or possibility. By wobbly, I mean that it seems to not be in balance. Just a tiny tilt with the hand to either side, will make it wobble (like shake, tilt or whatever) a bit.
It honestly seems like it takes more force or hand movements to move the cursor to the right-hand side, compared to the left, but again, this is probably just my imagination

7. I see. I thought the pics would help, as all 7 of them span many hours time, both while gaming, idle, after restarts etc. Took me a while to take them, upload them and put them in here, so frankly, I am a little bit sad it was a waste of my time..

8. Just so I know, what temps should the components ideally rest at, both during gaming and idle?

Aeacus · Feb 28, 2018

Got a PM from OP to help out and now i'm here.

While k1114 answered all your initial questions, i have some additional info for clarification.

General:
While it doesn't matter where you plug your KB and mouse, i've plugged mine to those 2 ports that are just below PS/2 port since most MoBos have those 2 USB ports reserved specifically for KB and mouse. There can be less input lag for those two dedicated ports. Though, i haven't tested that out by myself. My KB also has 2x USB plugs and USB pass-through where my mouse connects to my KB, just like you have it set up.

As far as USB port color goes, black colored ports are USB 2.0 and blue ones are USB 3.0. Main difference is that data transfer speed is 10 times faster for USB 3.0 than for 2.0. Though, there are other differences as well,
further reading: https://www.diffen.com/difference/USB_2.0_vs_USB_3.0
Note: Most KB and mice are using USB 2.0 and there's no benefit plugging them to USB 3.0 port.

As far as USB acronyms go, USB 2.0 can be called "High Speed USB" or "HS USB" and USB 3.0 can be called "Super Speed USB" or "SS USB".

Monitors:
Not my expertise. Though, the dried water on your screen suggests that you got refurbished monitor back when you RMAd your 1st monitor.

Settings:
I also suggest leaving everything in BIOS/Nvidia as default.
As time moves forward and if you need better cooling, change the fan profiles to more aggressive ones or when you don't want too much noise, change the fan profiles to more relaxed ones.

I've tweaked the fan profile from BIOS since i have more than enough cooling in my Skylake build and i don't need my CPU cooler fans spinning 1500 RPM or so. I changed the fan profiles for more relaxed ones where currently, my CPU is at 27°C and my 2x Corsair ML120s on my CPU heatsink spin at about 450 RPM. Of course, when my CPU heats up, the fans start spinning faster, where if my CPU reaches 80°C, fans will be 100% (2400 RPM).

Temps:
Your temps all look within reason, both at idle and during gameplay.
Oh, don't be sad about your temps pics since for 1. i did look all of them to confirm CPU and GPU temps at different stages; and 2. you can keep them as a baseline or source for future temp issues.

As far as GPU goes and if you see 80°C out of it, then it's time to start worrying.
My MSI GTX 1060 Gaming X 3G also starts out at about 56°C when i first boot up my system. Currently, my GPU sits at 60°C and while it may seem high, the most that i have ever seen out of my GPU (during Unigine Superposition bench) was 66°C. Also, due to the Zero Frozr feature which my GPU has, the GPU fans doesn't start to spin when GPU temp is at or below 60°C.

Of course, you can get your GPU idle temps down too but that requires some fiddle with software. E.g set your GPU to run in power saving mode (via Nvidia control panel) and/or set a custom fan curve that your GPU fans spin below 50+°C target temp (via MSI Afterburner).

KB:
The latest Corsair CUE version is 2.23.40 and there is no option to change color mode. What there are, are: Polling Rate, Brightness and Layout (at least for Strafe RGB).
Though, LED flicker can be either issue with your K95 or with all K95 Corsair KBs. My Corsair Strafe RGB doesn't have any LED flickers and RGB works as it's supposed to, regardless if i use the Corsair Utility Engine (CUE) or even the fan made Corsair Effects Engine (CEE),
demonstration of CEE, youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odMIVeC2Gj0

Mouse:
If the cloth side of your mousepad requires too much force to move your mouse, flip the mousepad around so that the mouse is on hard and easier to glide surface.

As far as the mouse's rocking side-to-side goes, that's due to the mouse's design. Narrow footprint mice can have that issue. My Corsair Sabre RGB has a wide footprint and it's solid as a rock, without any leeway for side-to-side rocking.

Audio:
To get your monitor speakers as one of the output sources, you need to select them via sound control panel. Here's small tutorial on how to do it,
youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVH9fSZNGkQ

While that tutorial above is nice, switching between devices is very annoying since you need to go to the control panel each time. To get rid of that, i'm using a small utility called Soundswitch,
specs: https://github.com/Belphemur/SoundSwitch/tree/v3.15.1
download page: https://www.aaflalo.me/downloads/

With Soundswitch, i can use the default hotkey of Crtl + Alt + F11 to switch very easily between my headset and speakers. Though, that hotkey can also be changed. Soundswitch also works on recording devices too if you have more than one (i have three). Default hotkey switching between recording devices is Crtl + Alt + F7.
Just don't forget to mark the needed devices within Soundswitch settings if you want to switch between them with hotkey.

Though, there are other small programs too that do same or similar thing,
further reading: https://www.raymond.cc/blog/easily-change-or-switch-the-default-audio-sound-output-in-windows-vista-and-xp/

k1114 · Feb 28, 2018

You may need to look around for flickering problems/solutions specifically for your monitor model. I wouldn't settle on a monitor with a water looking spot, not even a $100 cheapo should do that. And they should replace it free of charge for a defective monitor.

Unless you need to manually change the settings like xmp in bios or 165hz in ncp, then you go and change them and nothing else.

Your temps are fine as the fans are turning off as they should. It does make a higher idle as you've experienced but nothing out of the normal or of any concern. Your temps are all good and there is nothing to worry about. The ideal range is what you are getting. I like to keep no more than 70c but really the safe range is higher. That's just me being picky plus I don't own a 250w gpu so mine won't get as hot. You don't need the software if you don't need them. It's safe to say the fans being off is the cause

I don't think the mouse design is the cause. It still has enough flat bottom surface area that it shouldn't be tilting any. It should be easily identifiable as the issue if the mouse is lifting on one side.

The input lag for usb front vs rear is a myth for most mobos. There are some that will have different controllers for front and rear but most go to a single usb controller and there isn't any extra steps to change input lag.

While blue being 3.0 and black being 2.0 is usually followed, it's not always the case. His case, if you look at pics, are black ports labeled ss. Even though high speed/super speed are official nomenclature for it, how many people use those terms vs 2.0 and 3.0?

Aeacus · Feb 28, 2018

k1114 :

I don't know which pics you are looking at but official page provides 3x pics of the case's front I/O where the front I/O USB ports, while black, are labeled as "3.0".

source: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-s-window

k1114 · Feb 28, 2018

There are different versions as the op says his are labeled as ss. Google images also shows both versions. I am familiar with the 3.0 labeled one. I had to go look up images to see if they were labeled as ss. I swear I saw a pic, now I can't find it.

scrancher · Mar 3, 2018

Hi guys.

I am not always the quickest to respond back, but here is the replies to both of your great posts

I know that you answered most of my questions, k1114, but since Aeacus have helped me a lot in the past, and kind of know where I am coming from, I wanted to bring him in.

@Aeacus:

General: Great to get a bit more clarification on this. I will cross that of my list, and smile with the new info you two have taught me!

Monitor: I did not understand the refurbished part? It seems that both you and k1114 think both the monitors was / are faulty. While it would seem so, I have tried to gather information about this specific model, and as I had also looked into before opening this thread, there does indeed seem to be a line of common errors with this monitor. I suppose for now, I will use my warranty and return it for a brand new (the third one), and post the conclusion as I recieve it.

Settings: As both of you two are saying, I have reset everything in nvidia control panel, and just changed the resolution to 2560x1440p @165Hz, and set the setting to Adaptive screen. Honestly, it seemed to have lowered the idle temps down from the mid 50's (celsius) to below 40, which is great! But I also noticed that the two games I currently have installed (WoW and PUBG), seem to have dropped in fps. That is why I still think there is some tweaks or settings I should manually turn on or so?
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BIOS I did the default (F5) reset sometime ago, and won't delve more into that for now.

(To both Aeacus and k1114) Temps: It's great to hear that both of you are saying that the temps looks fine; both while gaming and during idle!
Could be due to the new settings (default), but the fans seems to spin a bit faster and louder now. I suppose due to them cooling the pc down faster, yes?

Keyboard: Yeah. As k1114 stated, it is something that will be with all the K95 Platinum keyboards. I'll have to send it in and find a new, I suppose. Didn't yet try the full system and hardware reset, as suggested by the Corsair tech supporter, though.

Mouse: The mouse mat is actually the Vespula version one (both sides are some sort of hard plastic). I only have used and tried the control side, which is a bit rough, compared to the touch of the first-person shooter side (speed), which are all smooth.
(To both of you) I am not sure about the stand on the mouse. It did seem used and a bit worn when I bought is as a new one, but it just seems wobbly / left-and-right tilting, no matter which grip or posture I have the mouse at.

Audio: I tried the solution you provided me with, Aeacus, but I just couldn't get it to work.
A new problem arose, too (prior to me trying your guide). My Steelseries headset (forgot the exact model name, although it is a very old model) started to put out static noises. This is happening randomly, but especially when I minimize either of the games I have; switch browser tabs etc.
Also, I have tried all the sound options my pc have, and the highest volume as well as bass level are pretty low, compared to when plugged into my old MSI laptop.
And yes, I did check if it isn't just my old headset, but it didn't do this static noise to begin with, and it still doesn't produce it while plugged to my PS4, cellphone, MSI laptop and other devices.

___
*New issues and / or questions: 1. So, I tried to plug the headset, keyboard, mouse and such, into the front USB 3.0 and jack-ports, as shown in the picture above. They actually don't work at all. The jackstick does nothing but a very loud static sound, and neither the KB or mouse will register the USB ports at all. Just my luck...

2. Without doing anything but updating Google Chrome 64bit to the latest version, as well as my Windows 10 home, when I go to Youtube to listen to music or whatever, the loading of the video itself now takes a few seconds. It never did that before. Regular browsing seems otherewise normal, though.

3. Question: Would you two recommend me to get a support bracket for my GPU? It doesn't sack per say, but it isn't solidly aligned either.

4. Also, sometimes when I either boot up my pc or simply restart it, the network icon (bottom-right corner) will show the triangular error sign, where I have to go and troubleshoot it in order to fix it. I have checked all my network drivers etc, which are all up-to-date.

5. Speaking of drivers. Is there any other way than going to device manager, to check for driver updates? If no, is there no way to check and automatically download and update ALL drivers at once, instead of manually hitting each arrow-down icon; search for driver updates on all the icons manually?

6. Another thing I noticed, within the last 5 days or so, is a sound I can only describe as being a squiky noise (or like metal slightly scraping against metal or something), coming from the case both during idle and while gaming or browsing. Doesn't happen all the time, but from time to time. Any ideas what that could be?

k1114 · Mar 3, 2018

In ncp you said adaptive screen but that doesn't exist. If you meant adaptive power, that should be on optimal. I can't think of any other adaptive setting except vsync which isn't relevant. It sounds like whatever setting you changed set a more aggressive fan profile so it's on at idle lowering temps and is faster/louder on load.

It's easy to look at the mouse and wobble it to see if it's because of the surface it's on or if it's the mouse itself that's wobbling which would warrant a replacement.

The static sound and the lower bass could be a sign of a lower quality integrated sound card but I don't think that is the issue if your old headset didn't have the issue. It's unclear if you meant the new or old headset wasn't having issues on your ps4 and laptop.

Did you check to make sure all the front panel connections are all connected properly?

Were any other bios settings changed before you reset it?

A gpu support bracket is not needed.

There's been a number of network related issues that came with the windows 10 fall creators update. New drivers don't seem to fix them nor is there a fix so it could be that. It doesn't happen on all devices but it's common enough to be a known issue. Even when I boot sometimes have to disable/enable my adapter to get it to work and I never had the issue for the years prior with 10.

There is no need to check for drivers. Windows usually keeps most of them up to date and they don't need to be updated unless you are having issues. Gpu is the only one that constantly changes as game optimizations and new games come out.

The sound could be cap whining or a fan bearing going bad. It's distinctly different but if you aren't familiar it's not easily described. But a high pitch would be coil whining and there's not much to do about that.

Aeacus · Mar 3, 2018

Monitor:
By refurbished i mean that you got an used monitor back.
When consumers buy PC components/peripherals and they are unhappy with their purchase (wrong model, few scratches etc) they can send them back to the retailer. Retailer doesn't scrap the otherwise just fine working item. What they do, is to sell them under the "refurbished" title. If the item's manufacturer has checked the item then retailers sell those under "certified refurbished" title. The thing is that some retailers send refurbished items back to you within RMA process as a replacement item.
Since your monitor has water marks on it, that's why i'm guessing that you got refurbished monitor back.
I prefer contacting OEM directly if i have any issues with PC components/peripherals, rather than dealing with the retailer.

Settings:
With GPU, you have 2 options:
1. set it run in performance mode where you get high FPS but the downside is that GPU also runs hotter
2. set it run in power save mode where you get lower temps but also reduction of the in-game FPS
The harder the GPU works, the more heat it produces while the result is also better (more FPS). Same is with CPU as well when you OC your CPU.

Audio:
Because audio issues fall under the software, i can't help you here. Since my expertise lies in hardware and it's issues, i don't do well with software issues. That and also because i'm running Win 7 and not Win 10, i can't check on my own PC which solutions would work. But that much i can say that Win 10 updates are notorious in messing up user's PCs and one fix can be uninstalling latest Win updates.

Question #3:
As said above, GPU support bracket/pole isn't needed. But if a little bit of GPU sag annoys you, you can go for one. There are 2 main designs:
1. bracket style: https://www.amazon.com/Graphics-Support-Holder-Gaming-Bitcoin/dp/B01DQK7DDW
2. pole style: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GeForce-Graphics-Bolster/dp/B01M104I2J

Question #6:
There aren't many moving parts inside the PC. Only fans and HDD. Since you describe it as metal on metal, it can be HDD read/write sound that you hear. Or the vibration sound made by the case fans or HDD itself. But to be sure, open up your case and put your ear to it to make sure from where the sound exactly comes from.

k1114 · Mar 3, 2018

Ncp power settings are max performance, optimal, and adaptive. Max performance doesn't give higher fps except in a few cases when downclocking or other issues are causing it. Optimal and adaptive will not give lower fps unless downclocking or other issues are causing it.

Aeacus · Mar 4, 2018

k1114 :

Yes, it very well may be so.
I haven't fiddled with my Nvidia driver settings or manual GPU OC since i'm happy with the performance and temps of my system.

scrancher · Mar 5, 2018

@k1114:
Yes, I meant the ncp power managemet mode setting, which I now set to adaptive. It honestly seems like it was the culprit to my especially high idle GPU temps. As of right now, while writing this (only this browser tab and Speccy manually opened / started), it rests at a nice 37 degrees celsius, whereas it would be in the high 40's with previous settings. Earlier today, after a few hours of a gaming session, it would quickly cool down to the 40's for a while, and then even lower. So that it very nice!
Just a note: I tried out these settings, just to test and tweak a bit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vni-4KLMFPs&ab_channel=Dood76

I could be wrong, but it does seem like a faulty mouse, as it will wobble no matter which surface I place it on (thus also eliminating the mat as the cause, I guess). About the mat, though. It does have those 4 in total (not solidly inserted and seated on the mat) rubber pieces in each corner, which made me think that it could be the reason for wobbling.
Mouse is definitely going to get returned at any rate!

I know my motherboard (Asus Z370 Prime-P) isn't of the high-end-feature stuff, but yes, my old Steelseries headset only has the static sounds and miliseconds of sound cut-off when plugged into the pc case (rear end jack ports).
I meant the old headset, as there is no new one. I only own the one (good ol' Steel) headset

.

The guy I bought the pc from, did say that I should check the cable to the front usb / jack port module, and even sent me a replacement cable. However, I have not any idea of how to do replace or check it, so might just not use that panel at all.
A quick google search also revealed, that there apparantly are common issues with many cases' front usb/jack port module. Sad, but true.

Do you mean by the company I made and bought the pc from, or changes made by myself?
I don't recall anything other than the XMP profile setting getting changed upon a BIOS reset, which I easily found out how to tick back on. I honestly couldn't say, if other changes were made by me, as all I initially did was turn on Intel Storage and then save & quit.

Okay, splendid. So, more of an aesthetic feature then?

Okay, that could explain it. I just find it weird, that the Youtube.com site suddenly got so slow, as it was totally fine last week!

Okay, awesome! But if I were to check for driver updates etc (which I do out of pure instinct from time to time), device manager would be the place? And in there, you can't somehow search for driver updates for ALL components and their softwares?

I see. But that would be a constant sound of what you described, right?
I haven't heard any ''malfunctioning'' sounds the last two days, so I take that as a good sign.

@Aeacus:
Monitor: The big retailer companies (like the one from which I bought the monitor) always says the same thing, when I ask them if it is brand new: ''Yes, it is a new unused model''. And yeah, I stopped believing in that a long time ago. It also wouldn't make sense, when there will always be the 2 weeks return policy at place, which means that they mostly aren't ''new'' anyway, hehe.
It still puzzles me, though, as the 2 x Asus rog swift PG279Q monitors I have had (and have), both have the EXACT same issues. Too much of a coincidence to me, to be honest.
I did call the Asus support line twice, and both two independent supporters was clueless, and simply said to return it to my retailer. The retailer said the same thing, so no help from those guys, unfortunately..
Google search suggests--at least from what I concluded--that there isn't a fix to the boot-up and while-playing screen flickering, and that it is a g-sync related issue, which is not good at all.
I will return it for a third one, and try and take it from there

Settings: Okay, I see. With the default reset, then setting it to my monitors highest refresh rate and resolution, the power mode to adaptive, and tried the tweaks as per linked above, it seems to have fixed it, which are great!

Audio: Okay, no problems mate. It just still seems weird. I suppose I have to fiddle some more with it, and hope for the best.

Question #3: Okay, nice! Perhaps I will grab one of the bracket style ones someday, when I want to cosmetify my rig some

Question #6: Alright. As said above, I (thankfully) haven't heard that weird noise for a few days, but I will put my ear against the window side if I hear it again (7-9-13 / knock on wood!).
___

*As always, I have a new question/s. Sorry!

1. Just to be on the safe side, I wanted to make sure, if it is a good or bad idea, that I will shut down the pc from the start menu, then wait a few seconds, press the power off button on the low rear-side of the case, followed by a power off press on the wall socket? I do this everytime I know that I won't be using the pc for some time

.

2. Speaking of the above, here about a week ago, when I was turning it down for the day, as I hit the wall socket's power button, a rather big electrical flash was emitted from the wall socket. Now, this wasn't just some small spark, as I know are normal. Is there anything that could have caused this? I was afraid maybe the PSU was the cause, or something?

3. Also, on a similar note, I tend to always have a constant small amount of electrical surge running through my hands, which will jolt me a ticklish bit when touching metally parts. Can this have any harmful outcomes when turning on or off the pc, or in any way coming into physical with the very pc case?

k1114 · Mar 5, 2018

Odd, optimal and adaptive are both similar and shouldn't change the fan. I would suggest you not to take advice from youtube as anyone can post things regardless of actual knowledge. I wouldn't suggest getting tech advice from a teenager. I think he only changed 5 settings and the rest was default. Pre rendered frames is usually 1 from the app anyways. Af optimization, shouldn't make a difference. Texture quality to high perf, that will lower texture quality, who wants that? Power, I wouldn't change unless necessary. And vsync which is needed for people with tearing and can just be selected in game anyways.

Static even in cheap headphones shouldn't happen. I think you might just be lucky in getting faulty components for this build or something is causing it. From the last issue on this post about electricity, the grounding issue can cause this interference.

Front panel connections is not a common issue. The issue is people get confused with connecting them as they are literally identical metal pins sticking up. They are labeled but the only way to dummy proof it is to have a connection like the usb 3.0 header.

Companies usually don't mess with bios settings but there's no telling. Intel storage is not a feature. What exactly was it called?

Aesthetic feature? I think that's about the gpu bracket. No it's not just aesthetic but most cards aren't big/heavy enough to have issues. Oems use it more because shipping can be rough.

Youtube should not be slow. Nothing I said would explain youtube being slow. What I said about network issues was about it not connecting.

Checking drivers does exactly what windows update already does as it checks their database which could not be up to date as mentioned. The only way is to check the manufacturer site. You may want to try since you are having audio issues. But most of what's in device manager actually doesn't have external drivers. It's just audio, network, usb, sata, gpu, monitors, mouse and keyboards. Even then some of those won't like many peripherals are plug n play and usb could have native support.

1. Turning off all those switches is fine but not necessary.

2/3. You have a grounding problem and it can be bad. The case is grounded to the psu to the wall socket but you shouldn't touch it if unplugged. If this issue is just this pc you need to look if something is touching the case when it's not supposed to. Many times it's the mobo bottom so make sure it's on the standoffs correctly. If it's all the time, it may just be from carpeting or some other reason but you'd want to ground yourself before touching electronics. I'm not sure if I ever saw a wall socket with a switch unless it's a gfci. Are you talking about a power strip?

Aeacus · Mar 7, 2018

New question #1
Only downside of the constant switching is that eventually, you will wear down the switch up to the point where it doesn't work anymore. I had that happen twice with my power strips (6x sockets in strip + switch to turn off entire strip) where the switch did fail. Had to throw them both away since switch died in off position.

Now, i don't flip any switches anymore and Shut Down from the start menu is the only thing i do, while leaving my PCs to be connected to my UPSes and my UPSes are 24/7 on and connected to the mains.

Only time when i do flip the PSU's switch is when i start working inside my PCs. Here's how i do it all the time:
1st i shut down the PC
2nd is to flip the PSU's switch
3rd is to unplug the main power cable from PSU
4th step is to ground myself
and 5th step takes me into my PC

New question #2
As said above, that spark is due to the grounding issues. At my old place, i had ungrounded wall sockets and every time i plugged my PC's main power cable into the socket, i got a spark out of it. While it didn't do any harm to my components, it was scary to see that, especially when you don't expect that to happen. It wasn't only the PC's power cable that caused that spark appear. Basically every electrical appliance over 100W (e.g water kettle) also produced that spark when i plugged that into the ungrounded wall socket. I'm so glad that i don't live there anymore.

New question #3
Do you get the static discharge only when touching your PC's metal case or does it happen with other metal objects as well (e.g washing machine)?
If it's the 1st case then k1114 already explained the cause and fix.
But if it's the 2nd case then avoid wearing materials that cause the static electricity buildup in your body,
here's further reading about static electricity: https://www.school-for-champions.com/science/static_materials.htm

As far as getting a jolt when touching the metal PC case, that in general shouldn't be an issue since PC case's metal parts are in direct contact with PSU's casing and that in turn is in direct contact with the grounding inside the mains. Unless you have the issue explained by k1114.
I usually touch the metal radiator of my flat's central heating system to ground myself before i start touching any internal components inside my PC. Or when PC is connected to the mains, i'll touch the PC case's metal part for same effect.

Static discharge has caused PC's internal components to die if one hasn't discharged himself before touching them. Also, avoid PC assemble/ maintenance on the carpet since carpets produce static electricity quite easily (depends on material used). Dry air, especially dusty dry air also helps to build up static electricity in your body. And so does the dry skin, especially when you wear clothes that are made of polyester material.

scrancher · Mar 10, 2018

Hi guys. I am sorry for a particularly late reply this time around! I have been super busy, so my apologies for that!

With that said, I feel that I don't complement you two enough, for all the time and help both of you bestow upon me!
In short: Thank you both a huge bunch! I really appreciate the help!

@k1114:
I could very well be wrong, but after I did the default reset in the nvidia control panel, and only changed the monitor settings, as well as the power option to adaptive, the temps started to drop across the board.
Would you advice me to default reset the settings again, and take a screenshot I can post here, so you can see exactly what my default settings are? I was thinking, maybe the default settings are different from different other nvidia components?

Oh dang. Could seem like it. Wouldn't be the first time for me.

Do you mean by checking if either of the two front top USB ports work with my headset?

Yes, true. Although it is a small company I bought my pc from; it isn't like a big-chain company, but rather a small local pc retailer store. I picked most of the components and such, which he then would assemble, build and setup for me.

Ah, I see. I thought it was due to the possibility that the gpu board could suddenly sack too much, and ultimately break off the circuits.

Okay. Any ideas of how come just youtube suddenly got slow?

Alright. Just, sometimes, when I manually go to check device manager for driver updates, there actually are some, even though Windows updater states the system etc are up-to-date.

1. Splendid!

2 & 3: My floor are wooden, and I always wear those rubber slippers things, so I assume the grounding isn't the issue? I tend to have a lot of static surging through my fingertips all day long.
I'm from Denmark (Europe), and it isn't a power strip I meant. It's just a regular wall socket, but with a switch to power on or off

@Aeacus:
I can definitely see how it could worn down the actual power button after a while, but I was thinking purely of any harm to the actual pc's hardware?

Hehe, yeah I can imagine! But, then I shouldn't worry that it would kill off my components? I was thinking like how a fuse can be blown; fuse here being the pc hardware

As said above, I have pretty much a steady current of tiny electrical static surging through my fingertips from morning to night, hehe. I usually get a tiny jolt when touching basically any metallic objects.
Components could only die, if you were to touch them, whilst the pc was turned on, right? Not that I intend to touch my pc components inside the case, but would be nice to know.

k1114 · Mar 10, 2018

You can leave ncp alone as it won't hurt anything but the settings that were changed won't really do anything except the power setting and texture. I would suggest changing textures back to quality. Defaults are not different.

You said they told you to check the front connections and gave you a replacement cable. Do the usb ports even work at all? If they can't even connect the front panel correctly, I wouldn't trust them to do anything right.

You could ask them and see if they changed bios settings.

With all that was changed, and other possible issues, there's no telling what caused youtube to slow. You will just have to try a bunch of things. The easiest is to try a different browser since windows already comes with edge.

The plug is insulated so you aren't going to affect it so the big spark is still an issue. Although you say sparks are normal, sparks/arcs from switches shouldn't happen. That's a sign of a inefficient/bad switch if grounding is not an issue. This can cause excessive wear and can also cause fires. Is this an old house? At the same time since it's normal, it could have just been a random occurrence. If you had already flipped the psu switch, the issue is the wall socket. I'm not familiar with those that have a switch but not all switches are made to regularly be flipped. If it's just for safety then it's not and can wear out quickly from overuse. The wear will cause pits to form causing more resistance. This can cause less voltage out the socket which isn't going to be good for a pc. The pits will eventually lead to the switch welding itself permanently on.

It doesn't matter if the pc is on or off, plugged in or not. Typical static discharges that you feel are thousands of volts so will kill components. The ones you don't feel can still be a couple hundred.

Aeacus · Mar 10, 2018

scrancher :

Flipping the PSU's switch can have long term damage to the PSU since when you flip the switch to ON position, there's some inrush of electrical current into the PSU that can damage it. Though, i haven't done any testing about it and i'm not sure. Someone with extensive knowledge about PSUs should be able to answer this (like Dakrbreeze).

scrancher :

Since i'm not electrician, i can't say if that spark can have any damage to the components or not. At least i haven't witnessed any but that doesn't mean there is none.

For all PSU related questions you have, you can post these to the Dakrbreeze's "Power supply discussion and review list thread",
link: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-3612443/power-supply-discussion-thread.html

scrancher :

Actually, static discharge kills components mainly when they aren't powered on. Ever wondered why MoBo, GPU, HDD etc components are stored and shipped in the anti-static bags?

Since there's static electricity buildup inside your body, do look for ways how to minimize it's buildup.
When talking about static electricity, my wife has one scarf that builds up the charge inside her body and i've gotten plenty of jolts from her through the lips when i've kissed her. While it hurts quite a bit, we laugh it out since we still got spark between us.

scrancher · Mar 26, 2018

___
@k1114: Just to fully understand, you suggest that I just set all ncp settings to default, right?

The USB ports actually do work, it's just the two jack ports. But yes, they sent me a cable, that supposedly should fix the problem.

What they told me is, that they set up the bios for me. I honestly don't know, as I haven't the slightest clue as to what the settings should look like in there, and nor would I want to risk it and fiddle with it myself.
I do know, however, that if I default reset the bios, then the ram xmp profile won't be activated.

Alright. I just still find it very weird. Could it be my adblock, or perhaps some chrome setting that blocks something?

Fortunately, this only occurred once. I switched off the PSU, then went to switch off the wall plug switch, which made that big spark. Hasn't occured since that one time. I can't say for sure about the wall sockets, but my apartment was fully renovated before I moved in, around 3 years ago.

Okay. Especially when it's cold outside and my hands are dry, nearly every metallic surface I touch will jolt my fingertips a bit. It's more of a nuisance than anything hurtful.

___
@Aeacus: Alright. I guess from now on, I will only fully turn off both PSU and wall socket switch when I'm going to bed.

Okay, thanks!

Hehe, the spark of love :-D
But yeah. I've thought of getting one of those anti-static wrist bands, or some other ''accessory'' I can wear while usually getting the jolts.

---

You guys recall I mentioned that scraping on metal sound? It's more of a constant increase in fan speed. Like, for 1 second it will be fine, then it will blow up high rpm, then low again. I hope that's normal, and not my fan wearing out prematurely!

Random question: does it damage your mouse and / or keyboard, if you use your vacuum cleaner (with a head that has hair-things on) and clean those two objects?

k1114 · Mar 26, 2018

None of it did anything except quality, but sure change it back.

If something is blocked it doesn't just slow it down, it blocks it. I'd assume a bios setting affected it if nothing else was changed. You could go into the bios and look up in the manual or internet what the settings do. Anything that is changed can always be changed back but you don't have to change anything just to look.

Before you keep flipping switches, you should try to find out their rating. If they aren't made to keep switching on and off, you are going to kill it. I would suggest not flipping switches at all. There is no point.

Scraping metal sound is never normal. People will say coil whine is normal, but loud enough to be easily audible is not. It does sound more like a bad fan. Change the fan speeds manually and see if you get a sound change.

The brush head for a vacuum is fine to use on kb and mouse.

Aeacus · Mar 27, 2018

Was the electrical wiring inside the walls also changed when your apartment was fully renovated? Usually the electrical system is left untouched since it's difficult to replace it and it costs quite a bit.

That noise could be fan bearing though. Best to test that is to ramp up the fan, as suggested by k1114.

Feel free to clean your KB and mouse with vacuum cleaner. Though, unplug them from PC to avoid any damage due to the ESD.
I clean my KB by pulling out all keycaps, so i can get easy access to the bottom side of keys where dust settles.

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