380 with crap PSU

Goran Petric

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Jul 27, 2014
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How about gtx 960? That one needs only one 6pin, and that crap psu has two wires coming out of it with molex on it, could double that with adapter to get one 6pin. I have 2 used deals on local market for 960 and 380 (and 380 is even cheaper) while 1050's are more expensive than both. I dont wanna buy new psu, building budget thingy and allready bought a case with this psu in it
 
It has a -5V rail, which has been obsolete for years. This appears to be a PSU-shaped object. Likely good for half of its label, it almost certainly lacks protection circuits (hey, those cost money!), so I'm not sure I'd trust it to power lightbulbs. I'm sorry, but that's just how it is. I would not use adapters to try to power a graphics card.
 

Goran Petric

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Jul 27, 2014
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Damn... i either buy antec vp 400 for 40$, and get cheaper r9 380, or i stick with crap psu and buy more expensive gtx 1050.
Or for the sake of science i try to run adapters with strong card, so we can finaly have a thread when it burned, because its all smack talk and little actually burning components online :p
 

4745454b

Titan
Moderator
I agree with the above. Ancient unused rail, 288W on the 12V rail, this is not a 550W PSU like you thought. More so if there are no PCIe power cables. My 10yr+ old Antec EA500W had two 6pin PCIe power cables. This has none? Guess what? I'm not trying to be mean, but as mentioned above you have a PSU shaped object in your PC. Upgrade this first, then buy a new GPU. Using adapters to force this PSU to power any card is not a good idea, and can result in the PC getting fried. No joke. Don't let this happen to your PSU!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6snWfd1v7M

(note that these failed at less than 100% output.)
 
Strongly suggest not using adaptors or that PSU, depending on the rest of your system you'll be overstressing the PSU. Never mind the risk of using adaptors.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-3661645/started-fire.html

Although this had very large PSU, ultimately it was an adaptor that burnt, this might kill everything else in your system as that PSU would have poor protection circuits, so ask yourself, can you afford a whole new system if you can't afford a PSU?
 
Another problem with crap PSUs is, lacking proper input filters, they can die for non-apparent reasons, e.g. a lightning hit near a power line a few miles up the road, your mom / wife turns on a hairdryer, or your brother / dad runs his table saw. Then, because they lack proper output filters, attached components get dragged down into the fiery abyss with them. Since it is not a chance I would take personally, I cannot recommend that someone else do it.
 

Goran Petric

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Jul 27, 2014
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Actually, i'm reading now a bit to learn what this Amp numbers actually mean on a psu, and i came to the conclusion that this crap psu has decent amps available, it has even 'more amps' than my trusty tier3 Antec vp500 (which has 2 x12v 20a-ish rails but this one has single12v 24a, so i would dare to say they are the same. Also previous owner claims he used it to power up hd 7850. Yeah i would have to use adapters, but there is plenty of amps for 100-200w graphic card. Quality and age is still questionable, sure, but did i get something wrong?
I think there is too much talk about flames and explosions, while boxes like this keep running for years and years....

I will c/p gamersnexus article about psu's

''These are the voltage and current combinations for each rail of the PSU. Generally the more powerful the PSU, the higher the current numbers should be. Gamers should focus on the current rating of the +12V rail (for reasons discussed in the Rails section).

3.3V – orange wires – 18 or more Amps of current desired.

5V – red wires – 18 or more Amps of current desired.

+12V – yellow wires – 30 or more Amps of current desired (or more, depending on your GPUs).

5Vsb – purple wire on the ATX main connector – Standby voltage wire that allows your PC to do ACPI functions.

-12V – blue wire on the ATX main connector - Originally used for serial port connections, still there because a PCI slot can support a PCI-to-Serial adapter card (don't worry about it). ''
 


2x20 is not about the same as 24.

Use adaptors at your own risk, they are not recommended, ever.
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator


Honestly, 95% of PSUs included with cases already installed are absolute garbage too. Just buy a PSU that isn't a fire hazard and then move it to your new build.
 

Goran Petric

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Jul 27, 2014
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I tried 2 crap psu's, one is LC power 500w with native 2x6pin cables, it worked fine for a day, then next day pc would restart every time i enter a game, so now i use crap old chieftek with only 1x6 pin and another 6pin from molex adapter, it works fine for now. Nothing exploded or burned, just pc reboots when it pulls too much power. Its strange how it worked for all day gaming just fine, but next day just random reboots. Next i will try this crappy psu from the pic using only molex adapters
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator


It's not strange at all. Nor is crashing vs. not crashing a sign that the PSU works is just fine and dandy. But now that I know you don't care about your parts or value advice from people who all know *way* more than you about the issue, I can unfollow this thread, my conscience resting easily in that we gave you ample fair warning.
 

Rogue Leader

It's a trap!
Moderator


Can you please stop before you burn your house down? This is the path you are on.
 
Every time one of those crap PSUs is overloaded and reboots or shuts down, odds are excellent that it has wandered out of spec while doing so, possibly presenting damaging output spikes. When cheap PSU-shaped objects die, they often prefer not to die alone, and will take other [expensive] parts with them, possibly including your motherboard, graphics card, and/or hard drives (there went your data).
You really need to rethink your approach. One good PSU is a lot cheaper than a handful of cheap ones plus any parts they may destroy as they die.