High temps! Is a CoolerMaster Seidon 120v enough to safely overclock a Ryzen 7 2700x to 4.0 Ghz?

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timematters

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Hi,

I am currently experiencing, what I consider to be high temps on my Ryzen 7 2700x @4Ghz. i get about 36°c idle temps and about 74°c tdie temps (10°c factory offset already calculated) under load in prime95. I use a CoolerMaster Seidon 120v AIO with the AM4 compability bracket.

I used to cool my FX8350 @4Ghz with this AIO and even got it down to about 29°c in idle and 61°c load temps in prime95. Since the FX CPU has a TDP of 125W I was expecting that the Ryzen CPU with a TDP of 105W would be running at around the same or even lower temps than the FX.

I double checked for a bad application of thermal compund or a bad mount by doing the cleaning, reapplying paste and mounting process twice, but I still get the same results. One thing I did notice however was that the voltages on the Ryzen CPU are higher on average than the voltages on the FX CPU. Could that be the culprit, or am I missing something else?

Thanks in advance,
timematters
 
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Tdp is just a reference, it does not reflex the true power consumption, especially across different generations of cpu, it basically means you need this much cooling capacity to sufficiently cool the stock cpu.

From all the reviews that been around, ryzen 2700k is a hot chip, these chip needs a relatively high voltage to break the 4ghz barrier, and afaik 2700x has been pushed close to its physical limit at stock settings with xor and pb, you’d expect 80 + degree temp running prime 95 with an average cooler. 74c is a bit high but not terrible. You could try manually override the voltage to a lower value. and that should drop the temps, but every chip is different regarding undervolting.
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zyh1987

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Tdp is just a reference, it does not reflex the true power consumption, especially across different generations of cpu, it basically means you need this much cooling capacity to sufficiently cool the stock cpu.

From all the reviews that been around, ryzen 2700k is a hot chip, these chip needs a relatively high voltage to break the 4ghz barrier, and afaik 2700x has been pushed close to its physical limit at stock settings with xor and pb, you’d expect 80 + degree temp running prime 95 with an average cooler. 74c is a bit high but not terrible. You could try manually override the voltage to a lower value. and that should drop the temps, but every chip is different regarding undervolting.
 
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timematters

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Hey,

thanks for the quick and insightful reply. Do you think a CoolerMaster MasterLiquid 120 watercooler, that has a pressure and exhaust fan mounted on the cooling block, would make a difference? I saw some tests, but they only showed "out-of-the-box" Ryzens (so I suppose the CPU they ran was at 3.7Ghz) mounted with the AIOs (namely all the MasterLiquid coolers form CM). They reported 67°c under load for the MasterLiquid 120, but they also said that you have to account for the 10°c offset, which would mean that their tdie temps were at 57°c!
I only have space for a 120 cooling block AIO in my case, so if there is something you or somebody can recommend, I'd be happy to hear what you have to say.

Thanks in advance
 
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geofelt

geofelt

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At idle, a processor, be it FX-8350 or ryzen 2700X needs very little voltage to run and the heat generated should be minimal.
Since your idle temp is some 7c. higher, I suspect some cooling issue.

One common mistake is to use too much paste which can act as an insulator. A single small drop will spread out under heat and pressure.
Another possibility is that the cooling block is not snugged down evenly.

What is your case?
Any cooler needs a source of fresh air to do it's job.
two front 120mm intakes should be sufficient for a hot cpu and graphics card.

Where is your radiator mounted?
Does it take in fresh air from the outside?

If you orient it to take in cool air from the outside, you will cool the cpu better, but the hot air then circulates inside the case heating up the graphics card and motherboard.
If you orient it to exhaust(which I think is better) , then your cpu cooling will be less effective because it uses pre heated case air.

By and large, a inexpensive tower type air cooler with a 120/140mm fan will do your job easier.
 
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timematters

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Hey,
thanks for the reply.

I didn't apply too much paste, it was a pear sized drop in the middle of the CPU. Although I know too much paste can potentially be dangerous, because of it seeping onto the MoBo and if it is conductive will short your stuff, I don't think that a adding a little more than a pear sized drop would hurt anyone (of course you shouldn't smear it all over the place).
Video (with timestamp) on that one: https://youtu.be/r2MEAnZ3swQ?t=337

Now to the evenness of the mount. Mounting the block with the bracket was a bit tricky. And the actual reason why I took it off for the first time was, because I thought I had too much pressure on it due to the complicated screwing system and I also thought it might was uneven. When I took it off I didn't spot anything unusual. The paste wasn't seeping, no spots where there could've been air bubbles, nothing. Clean, apply, go. However when mounting the block this time I tried to lower it onto the CPU without the bracket. I held it down with one hand and then slid the bracket onto it. The process was quite difficult to handle again, but I managed to slide the bottom rings (square shaped) on the screws over the mounting "bumps" (round top side, with a flat bottom side) that are holding them in place. When I tightened the screws I was very careful to tighten them evenly.

Onto my case:
I have an old CM 690 II Advanced. This case came with CM's 700W Cool&Quiet PSU and I have it since January 2010. This thing along with the PSU proved to me to be the most reliable parts I have ever put into my PC. No problems or failures since 2010. Even the four case fans have never let me down. Two of them are CM 140mm fans, one at the front (intake) and one at the top (exhaust). The other two are Noiseblockers XL1 120mm fans mounted on the side of the case facing the MoBo (also intake fans).
My 120mm AIO is currently mounted on the back side of the case. Both the cooling body and the fan are inside the case. The fan is taking in cold air from the outside.

My Graphics card is a GTX970 G1 Windforce, so it's not part of the water cooling loop and is cooled by air reaching max temps of around 60-68°c while being overclocked to around 1.4Ghz.

I tried cooling the FX8350 by air in the past, but that would give me such high temps @4.0Ghz, that I basically had to upgrade to an AIO, although I can only fit a 120mm block and radiator into my case. It gave my around 10-15°c back in comparison to my Alpenföhn. I still haven't tested AMD Prism cooler though. In theory I think that water cooling is still the better option to overclock the Ryzen to 4.0Ghz. Do you think I should give the Prism a shot?

Thanks in advance


PS.: I am running a "Core Unpark" utility to actually make use of all 8 cores.
 
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geofelt

geofelt

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I think you mean pea sized, not pear :)
I think a rice grain size is sufficient, it is hard to use too little.

The purpose of paste is to fill in microscopic pits in the mating surfaces.
Paste is more heat conductive than the air in the pits, but not as good as metal.
The less paste you can use the more likely more of the mating surfaces will have metal to metal contact.
If either surface is not perfectly flat, cooling will be inefficient.

Try taking the case covers off and direct a house fan at the innards.
If that helps, look to case cooling solutions.

The new ryzen 2700X processors seem to be quite hot. a 4.0 overclock is about the limit.


 
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