Are those temperatures normal?

38 degrees at idle does seem to be a little high, though it will depend on your ambient temps in your room. Mine idles at 28 to 30 degrees so I would double check your cooler and apply some new paste like MX-4, Gelid GC extreme or Thermal Grizzly...all of them are good but if you have any thermal paste lying around use it to see whether it makes a difference.

first, i'd make sure your temp monitor is reporting accurately - maybe use Intel's XTU to compare what temps it reports compared to the monitor you're currently using

38C isn't that high for idle - but you might want to make sure you're pumping more air into the computer case than pumping out, ie more airflow in - otherwise you'll have negative air pressure

keep in mind, your gpu is also exhausting air - i'd flip that top exhaust fan to an intake fan and see what it does to your temps

Temps are perfectly normal. The i11 is a 150w cooler, very similar in performance to a hyper212, even though it's only a 92mm fan.

Nowadays its quite hard to get a good idle, windows is always doing something in the background when you are not active on the pc, as is AV and other things.

As said, ambient temps in the room will have a large affect on idle temps, as will fan curves, for both the cpu fan and case fans. You can usually expect cpu temps to be @10-15°C higher than ambient, so even in a 23°C ambient room (@73°F) a idle cpu temp with slow fan curve rpm can easily be 38°C.

P95 loads of 85°C if using any version later than 26.6 will also use AVX instructions (among others) which can and will give funky temp results, much higher than an expected 100% cpu gaming load as games generally don't use AVX. Pretty much with AVX its more of a 120% load on the cpu in terms of temps, so 85°C is also absolutely normal.

Using p95 26.6 does not use AVX, so is as close to 100% cpu load as reasonable to expect, basically the same as any game at 100%, so temps closer to 70ish would be absolutely normal there for an i5.

All that adds up to 1 thing, your temps are perfectly acceptable.

Airflow in a case is meant to flow from low-front to high rear. Do not change the top fan to intake. Big mistake. All that'll do is flood the area around the rear exhaust with air that'll then be drawn out, you get little to no actual airflow through the case as it's basically bypassed by a constant in/out from top to rear. This isn't instant temp check, but what'll happen is the cpu cooler will gradually start recycling warmer air, over and over, until after gaming for a while cpu temps will be far higher than they should be.

I'd you want to experiment, do so with fan curves, turn low speed settings up slightly on intake/cpu. The rpm is low enough to make no real audible difference at anything below @900rpm, but the cfm change can be quite drastic, which means more cool air flooded into the case and pumped through the cpu before exhaust.

sorry but i'll strongly disagree, i've proven the effects of negative air pressure - while that top fan isn't the most ideal fan to reverse, it's a limited set of choices, plus it's distance from the cooler's airflow to the rear exhaust fan is going to effect that airflow very slightly at most

he'll know it when he flips it if temps are being affected by negative air pressure - a 10 minute affair to see

Negative or positive is a falicy. It changes constantly unless overloaded in one direction. As is, pc fans are not capable of changing pressure inside a typical case, all they can slightly alter is volume of air. If there's a higher volume intake than exhaust, the extra air will bleed out of any crack possible, be it the card slots, cracks, vents etc. If there's more exhaust than intake, the vacuum created by the exhaust fans will draw air from the nearest available sources, those same cracks and vents nearest the fan. A pc fan literally does not create a vacuum of any decent size, mostly 1 to 2 inches deep at most. Airflow comes from the case air filling the void created. By turning the top fan to intake, it'll flood the vacuum created by the exhaust fan, literally short-stopping flow from the intakes, that air will realistically go nowhere, just in, then bleed out low or get sucked in by the gpu fans, turned into warm air that'll rise towards the top, only to get blown back down by the top fan. You create a cyclic pattern instead of a flow pattern. Immediate pc temps aren't affected, but as the cpu cooler starts drawing more warm air, it's temps go up, recycling the air it just bled out the sides of the heatsink across the VRM's and other voltage regulatory circuitry.

If you seal up the case, no other intake or exhaust other than the fans themselves, you'll reach a stasis point where even if the fans are spinning, there's enough volume created backpressure that the fans will cavitate, not pushing any more volume than the exhaust can supply. Sealing a case like that also negates any need for the positive/negative attitudes as any possible intake will be through the intake fans and therefore filtered.

Try and prove negative/positive all you want, even smoke tests only show intake through the the rear of the case because that's nearest the vacuum created by the exhaust fan, the nearest available source. It doesn't move any air from the front of the case. It's the entire reason prebuilts work as they always have, 1 exhaust fan and either solid sides with a vent in front, or perforated side vent. There's no negative pressure in the case, just a severe lack of filtered air, the only low pressure area being directly in front of the cpu and exhaust fans.

sorry to inform you, but you've convinced yourself you know something you don't. A small 6" fan can change the pressure inside a 2 story house w/a basement from negative to positive - we proved that when we used a small 6" fan to do exactly that, create positive pressure in a 2 story house to decrease the radon readings during a house inspection. The positive air pressure was enough to keep the radon gas from migrating up from the basement floor.

You've stepped on my posts in the past, and ignorantly so - i'm not a computer expert but have more than a slight knowledge of fluid dynamics and airflow, and a good working knowledge of metallurgy - you stepped on your own knowledge in that thread about the liquid metal TIMs "etching" heatsinks and CPUs. Sorry bud, but you can talk fancy lingo all you want to impress - it quit impressing me after that exchange

The computer you see described in my signature below, has one top fan exhausting and one intake - temps dropped 3C when i converted one fan to intake. On another computer case, when i noticed dust building up around all the case vent perforations around the edges of the case on the outside surface of the case, i reversed one fan to create positive pressure and dust stopped accumulating around those perforations. That was a pretty strong indicator there was no negative air pressure inside the case drawing air in thru those vent perforations.

Negative air pressure in the case means the fan pushing or pulling air thru the cooler delivers less cfm thru the cooler, and it doesn't take a great deal of negative pressure to affect it's air flow

Well I spent many years in Florida. Saw many houses that spent the entire spring, summer, fall months with the doors and windows wide open. That little 6" fan won't do anything to change pressure in a house. That only works on a sealed system. Just as it really only works on a sealed case. And if you did that to pass a radon inspection.. I feel bad for the homeowner who'll keep loosing pressure every time he opens a door as that little 6" fan will take a while to put enough cfm into the room to stabilize the pressure. That fan won't give enough pressure to permeate the concrete, even if it is enough to stop radon permeating past the concrete, so that gas will stay in the concrete until pressure differentials change. Like when the homeowner opens the door. Your test was successful, I'll give you that, but it's only a bandaid on the problem.

Just as I said, immediate cpu temps would be a plus, but over time, especially if the pc exhaust is up near a wall, that exhaust will become part of that top fans intake. And you only dropped your cpu 3°C for that test, you haven't mentioned the gpu which is now having its exhaust blown back at it, or the case temps including m.2 drives which already suffer heat issues, or any front loaded stuff like hdds or optical which now get 0 airflow as you've overloaded intake to exhaust.

Your arguments are valid, very much so, I don't question that, nor your specific results, but my pc sits in a cubby, so it's a fact that if I converted the top exhaust to intake, I'd see lower cpu temps for a short period, but that'd soon change as all the intake would now be case heat exhaust from the psu, rear etc.

You might have a better designed airflow due to fans, fan curves, fan sizes, case location etc, and you can prove that, but generally speaking, that's not nearly always going to be the case for others.

That 6" fan was used in a sealed house - we were called in to testify in a radon or a "excessively high radon case" where it was claimed the seller should have known - when the radon scare hit, kind of like climate warming.

We proved the radon level was in effect, .10- to .15% higher than the radon levels outside the home, and yes, opening and shutting doors did cause a spike to negative air pressure, which contributed to the .10 to .15% higher interior levels.

But my point is still demonstrated by the fact that dust stopped accumulating around the vent perforations. Sealed case or not, the airflow into a computer case is restricted, and the air pressure affected negatively especially when the front fans are generally blowing air at the harddrive bays less than 1 - 1.5" away from the face of that front fan, restricting inflow.

again, it would a simple task, taking a few minutes, for the OP to reverse one fan to see if he sees a temp improvement in his computer