RAM Slot Order? RAM upgrade/replacement on older unit)Slot

Mrs91

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I am looking to upgrade my RAM since I am replacing a failed video card as well.

I did a scan ( not by crucial because the link didn't work) That shows my total RAM is 9, but slot order shows 2gb 1gb 2gb 1gb 2gb 1gb, in that order.
I have read a few posts and realize that RAM is finicky so its best to stick with the same speed/type... which is listed as DDR3 PC3-10600 1333MHz 240-pin DIMM. Because my PC is having issues I don't have quick access to view what brand it is, but correct me if I'm wrong its best to stick with the same brand as well?

I often read about ordering in pairs I'm thinking of getting close or over 16GB would be best... Here are my main questions?
Do you suggest ordering the same type? (my only concern is that this system is quite old, is the RAM outdated too? Could or should I replace all of it?
What order should I replace them in? Let's say I get a pair of 4 GB do I put it in the 1st and 2nd slot or 1st and third.

Or while I am stuck on the number of slots, do i need to order 3(if its possible)

Thank you in advance, you guys have been fairly helpful with my pc/upgrade woes.
 
Solution
You're going to want to buy a kit, and with that they're going to have the same clock speed and CAS latency. I'd recommend 2x8gb for gaming, but 2x4gb is okay for just gaming if you can't afford 16gb, but I'd still recommend getting 16gb even for just gaming. The performance differences mostly depend on what you're doing. For example, if you use something like Chrome and like having tons of tabs open, you're going to want more than 8gb RAM, but don't need more than 16gb unless you're huge into video editing, rendering, and 3d modeling.

Dual-channel 16gb is considered the "sweet spot" right now for gaming and non-professional workloads. In this case, with 16gb, you should never run low on RAM and never lose any performance.

Generally...

jerrylee22

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You're going to want to buy a kit, and with that they're going to have the same clock speed and CAS latency. I'd recommend 2x8gb for gaming, but 2x4gb is okay for just gaming if you can't afford 16gb, but I'd still recommend getting 16gb even for just gaming. The performance differences mostly depend on what you're doing. For example, if you use something like Chrome and like having tons of tabs open, you're going to want more than 8gb RAM, but don't need more than 16gb unless you're huge into video editing, rendering, and 3d modeling.

Dual-channel 16gb is considered the "sweet spot" right now for gaming and non-professional workloads. In this case, with 16gb, you should never run low on RAM and never lose any performance.

Generally, refer to your motherboard manual for optimal dual-channel installation. (It might even specify on the PCB next to the DIMM slots.) Typically, it is 1 and 3, and sometimes equally 2 and 4. Any motherboard will perform best in dual-channel or quad-channel mode using the same RAM type. Also, you should get better performance using dual-channel 16gb (2x8gb) than a single 16gb RAM stick and 2x8gb should be the same if not better than 4x4gb.

As you speculated, don't mix and match RAM clock speeds, latency, or even size. Having 12 Gb with a 1x4gb and 2x8gb should perform worse (or maybe not at all) when compared to 2x8gb. With four slots occupied, one kit rated for 600mhz will throttle down another kit rated for 1600mhz down to 600mhz, and will impact performance.

Mixed RAM will typically cause clock instability of all kinds, crashing under load, (sometimes intermittent) inability to post, and can impair performance.

So overall, I'd recommend doing as [most] all of the gamers and PC enthusiasts do - it's more than just my lone opinion. Get a 2x8GB kit for dual-channel. Again, unless you have professional needs, like rendering intensive 3D simulations or tons of 4K video rendering, you shouldn't need more than 16gb.

If you upgrade your RAM with a new kit, you shouldn't keep your old kit in there. It's likely just going to cause stability problems and not going to give you any realistic performance boost - if anything, it could impact your performance.

Note: If you also want to upgrade your CPU, you might need to upgrade your motherboard, and modern CPU's and motherboards usually support only DDR4 RAM, so you might want to wait on buying RAM if you're planning on doing that very soon.

Another rule of thumb: check your motherboard's and CPU's memory compatibility list/specifications when choosing RAM.

Also consider RAM height and dual-channel position if your have an obtrusive heat sink. Some have specific clearance specifications, but many aren't too long and mostly only affect the leftmost DIMM slot, so a dual-channel 2x8gb can "usually" work with them regardless of the size. If you're not going for heat-spreader aesthetic, this might not apply to you really at all.
 
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Mrs91

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@jerrylee22 thanks for the thorough and clear answer. Since my computer is nearly useless now I have it partially taken apart so I can take a look. On the board perpendicular to the sticks it says dimm 2 then 1,4,3,6,5? Which makes me more confused..
I don't have heat sink issues however the video card is slight close. In fact I had to remove it in order to unseat them to see what they are.

So on the motherboard concern... Hp says it should ipmtb-tk aka truckee.. Here's what they say about memory Triple channel memory architecture
Six 240-pin DDR3 DIMM sockets
Supports PC3-8500 (DDR3-1066) DIMM types
Non-ECC memory only, unbuffered
Supports 4 GB DDR3 DIMMs
Supports up to 24 GB on 64-bit PCs

So my follow up query is this it says supports 4gb.. Does that mean I cannot do two 8s and should do 4 4gbs?
Also there is mention of triple channels... I'm not clear if that means I HAVE to match 3 or just that it can?

As far as manuals go I think I'm sol on that one... It's an hp pc which I have read often have boards that are variations of other board sad thus not having its own manual. so far I have not found anything except general specs.
 

jerrylee22

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:pfff: I'm sorry, I should have noticed with your scan, but the motherboard model you supplied confirms that you have one of the older Socket B motherboards with 6 DIMM slots. Your motherboard socket was discontinued in 2012, and most (if not all) more modern processors don't support 6 DIMMs.

Everything I said is still relevant to almost every non-server/workstation motherboard in recent years, and if you choose to upgrade your motherboard and CPU, that is what you probably will be needing (but again, still make sure your motherboard would support it).

:sarcastic: In your case, it is optimal to run in triple channel, so a triple channel kit will yield the best performance, even if it comes with slightly less RAM (like 12gb instead of 16gb). It looks like it also only supports up to 4gb per DIMM, so it looks like you need to go for a 3x4gb triple channel with DDR3 1066 PC3-8500... but this looks like it's really hard to find now a days, and if you do, it could be over-priced. Getting to this point, it's debatable whether simply upgrading your RAM is going to help you much at all.

From the left, it looks like the second, fourth, and sixth DIMM slot are optimal for triple channel operation (1, 3, and 5). You could also use another kit in 2, 4, and 6 for 24gb, but like I mentioned, this might not give you any performance increase depending on load, and is likely not worth the money at the moment, as supply is lower and prices are jacked up. Your oscillating 1gb and 2gb show that your RAM is optimal for your motherboard's optimal triple channel operation.

"Upgrading" with your current components might not be worth a lot. Going from 2 1 2 1 2 1 gb to 0 4 0 4 0 4 gb should be better, but probably wouldn't be worth the money, especially considering what you'd be doing - and if you plan on doing more extensive tasks, upgrading your CPU would be more effective (but that requires a new motherboard).

If you can afford to upgrade your CPU and motherboard, it might be worth it for you this day and age, but it all depends on how often you use your PC, what you use it for, how much it's worth to you, and how much you can afford to spend on it.

It looks like you have an i7 9xx from 2009-2011 - I'm guessing this is suitable for what you're using your computer for? If you find it isn't, like I mentioned in the original reply, waiting for a newer motherboard and processor to upgrade your RAM could end up being very expensive, and potentially not worth it if you absolutely don't need it, want it, or can't afford it.

There are a lot of budget options for upgrading into more modern PC's, even if you don't need the top-of-the-line performance. For any new processor, you're going to need a new motherboard (also are budget options) and if you're really into to being able to upgrade, AMD might be a good thing to go for. I'm a huge Intel fan, but with AMD, they have things like the AM4 socket, which supports a wide range of processors that might be compatible with future releases. With Intel, you're usually limited to a single generation (like with my i7 8700k 8th gen LGA 1151) or even the socket you have now.

So, you could get a triple channel kit with 3x4gb with that motherboard, but it might not even be worth doing, both for price or performance. It might be a little better, but probably not warranting the cost, and getting a new motherboard and CPU would likely yield a better performance per dollar increase.

Sorry for my initial confusion, I hope I have helped and can continue to help in any way I can. Knowing what you want/need/expect is crucial to making your decision.
Not sure how much you know about assembling custom PC's or how much you're willing to learn, but I'd recommend it if you want to get the best value for your money and have the time to spare to do extensive researching (if you don't already know).
 

Mrs91

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Thanks jerrylee22

So I am currently wondering are this point with almost $300 for gpu and at least $150 for ram that might not help I’m already up high. Then I don’t know if I’m completely confident throwing in another few hundred on a motherboard and cpu?? Nor do I feel that confident in all the work that could possible go into a new board and cpu.. in my mind it seems terribly complex...I also am wondering if I upgrade the motherboard and cpu do I have to worry about connecting existing hard drive and optical drive too..

Would it just be more cost effective to buy a new prebuilt?
I quite enjoy tinkering around my pc to an extent. I don’t enjoy getting unnecessarily on depth though but I don’t mind upgrades and repairs. But when people get into specifics like modifying speeds and such I glaze over..
 

jerrylee22

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Mostly depends on what i7 9xx you actually have and what graphics card you're expecting.
If you really can't/don't want to spend more money and you feel like coasting with new RAM is reasonable for the price, then by all means go for it, but don't expect the RAM upgrade to save your PC if you feel it isn't performing up to snuff.

Pre-builts under/around $500 are a bit iffy, and I wonder if they'd really give significant enough of an improvement to be worth ditching you current hardware. I don't know the exact specs of your processor and newer graphics card or what you do or want from your PC, so I don't know. A lot of them come with only integrated graphics, too. They often add a decent chunk to MSRP for assembly. To get a better PC with your budget, you'd need to go custom, but you might not need to based on your performance preferences. There are a lot of factors at play with this, but there's also the possibility for bottlenecking, but if you don't go overboard with any one component over the other, there shouldn't be problems. This is mostly only relevant when you pair a new top-of-the-line component with an old mediocre one. Generally (for maximum performance at least) you want to upgrade at the same time (even more $ :kaola:), but even when I had my old CPU, upgrading just the graphics card was definitely amazing.
I'm big into value per dollar and longevity, but that comes at a significant premium ($1000's, literally :??:)
I believe I've put over 4 times more money into my PC then my car. :lol: This is a personal choice, you have to make your own.

Ultimately, if you're fine with it, stay with it.
Consider what you want from it and what you're willing to pay. If you're not willing to pay much more, then you're generally not going to get much more, but for many people, perhaps you included, you're just fine where you are and I respect that.
 

Mrs91

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Basically my use is that I like multi tasker is usually surf on one screen and watch videos on another , sometimes edit things as well and I’m a tab person. I usually have a minimum of 5 if not more. My husband is a one screen kind of guy but wants improvement for iracing he says he has issues where it just does not feel as responsive. As stated my other concern is that a year ago ( by possibly happened b few without my knowledge ) I often come home to a P.C. with one of the fans runnin at full cap. At that moment I didn’t look into the issue as if I shut it off for a bit, and rebooted, the issue did not persist. So I’m worried there’s a larger issue I’m missing and upgrading something for no reason

That being said this is ththe chip that we currently have now.. Core i7-950 (Bloomfield) (130W), 3.0 GHz

One - any thoughts on knowledge on being able to upgrade this one or is that a moot point since I have the ram issues and other things.

This is the graphics card I selected based on size budget and other peoples suggestions from a previous post: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB SC GAMING, ACX 2.0 (Single Fan), 3GB GDDR5, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC), 03G-P4-6162-KR

My old one was a GeForce gtx460

I bought a psu as well but now some are saying I don’t need it
 

jerrylee22

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Are you monitoring your CPU and GPU temps? Your 950 has a TDP of 130W - this is pretty high, and if it's not properly managed, you could run into issues... otherwise, like I mentioned, your hardware is older, and if it's working it's working, but there's no guarantee how long it'll last (that goes both ways :))

If you're keeping it, depending on peripherals, 460W could be okay. If you don't overclock anything with just your CPU and GPU factored in, your load wattage might be around 360W... but if your PSU is really old and might stop working properly it could be cutting it close. Beyond pure wattage, it might not be advisable to keep the same PSU for more than 5 years, unless if specifies a warranty matching or beyond this.

$700-1000 is more around the range I'd personally consider a pre-built worth buying (at least as a solid upgrade from your components). I'd personally consider an upgrade if not just because everything is getting physically old by this point. Your CPU could be close to kicking it, but it could also easy have another five (or more?) years left - it depends on a lot of factors. Even if you're not into really heavy stuff, it could be advisable to change out a build every 5-6 years. It's a lot of money, but it could end up saving you time and making the time you spend more valuable.

Like I mentioned earlier, if you're having to replace each and every piece in your computer bit by bit, eventually you're going to have to (or want to) overhaul the whole thing, and at that point, if you don't like custom assembly, it might be easier to go for a brand new pre-built. I'd recommend looking into the specifications and compare different retailers to get the best price to performance with the least added onto the individual retail price of the components. I didn't build my first custom PC, actually, and it was still a pretty good value. It's a bit of work itself, but I think it's worth it if you're planning on keeping it for years.

It's your life and your money though, you have the last decision. :) Again, I hope I can help at all...
 

Mrs91

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Thank you!! have been the most thorough and informative. After all your input and other threads, I've decided to dive headfirst into a rebuild on my own... I don't like being forced to get trade off one benefit for another with most of the prebuilts, especially the best ones I have found always have some reviews where some of the components are great and some are meh.
Based on what I have found I'd get only slightly more building it myself and I'll be honest while some issues make me want to bang my head. All this extensive research and comparison is fun.

After replacing my video card i no longer have BSOD, but I noticed that besides gaming my computer is sluggish. Very slow to boot, slows down with multiple tabs and programs running. So I figured why the heck not.

So far what I have is:
GTX Geforce 1060 3 MB (I'm kicking myself for not doing the 6gb)
550W EVGA Bronze 80plus 550W PSU
This gorgeous case coming in: Deepcool EARLKASE RGB WH White Steel
AMD Ryzen 5 2600X
Still working on MOBO and RAM options. (i am stuck on MOBO options )- here's a new thread about if you have any knowledge/opinion on it: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3750655/x470-motherboard-b350-ryzen-2600x-price-future-usability.html
I know it will be a heavy task but these forums are helpful so I am sure I will figure it out.
 

jerrylee22

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Aug 31, 2016
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I'm glad if I could help literally at all :)
Sorry I'm a bit late back. -~-
Before assembly and final preparation, I'd recommend watching something like "Avoiding Common PC Building Traps" Episodes 1-4 by Techquickie and perhaps other similar videos. They helped me make sure I didn't overlook something "simple".

If you already haven't gone for it, you'd probably be best going for the B450 like profoundnoah and cryoburner suggested over the AB350 for your AM4 socket.

Also note that slow boot times can also signify problems with the HDD (hard-drive), but since your other components may be on the fritz, I'd wait to see how your new build goes (just keep this in mind). If you notice file transfer or boot times very suddenly decreasing significantly, it could signify a failing drive. Don't want to overstimulate you, but I don't want you to lose any of your data.

Regardless of whether the drive is having problems, make sure you have a backup, just in case. If you end up needing to buy new, HDD's will have a bit lesser performance in general, but the alternative SSD's are far too expensive right due to the V-NAND shortage and manufacturing difficulties, and I wouldn't recommend buying one even if you could afford it until late 2018 or early 2019 (maybe). I don't even have one at the moment :sarcastic: I'd recommend a 7200rmp HDD, brands are preference, but know that for Western Digital that there's a difference between a WD Blue, Black, Yellow, Red, and Purple.