Replacement radiator fans for Arctic Liquid Freezer 360?

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 16, 2018

I'm getting an Arctic Liquid Freezer for my Monster Build, but i find the fans that come with it to be cheap, flimsy, and easy to break. I want a push-pull config, so six fans is a MUST.

I'm thinking of some Be quiet! Silentwings 3 for $18.90 for 6, bulk discounted from $21.90.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA87B6V41741

Unless there is a better fan that are faster and just as quiet or close, leave a alternative below. Thanks.

EDIT: I'm switching to those Noctua fans the awesome person below suggested, just waiting for the blacked out version. May get a Custom loop now, suggestions?

EDIT 2: Changed some stuff on parts list thanks to the helpful perp below. Swapping the Arctic for a Swiftech Drive H360 X3.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vDnyHh

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 16, 2018

Any help will be appreciated.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 17, 2018

Not to insult you or something, but you getting a "wannabe liquid cooler" and want to put 6 expensive fans on it that cost more than a cooler.
It's like to buy hyunai i10 and put an AMG engine in it.
you could get a better cooler with better fans to start with.
there is no point (noise/performance wise) in push/pull for 30mm AiO radiator.

Better fans, of course, https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAADY76X3131&cm_re=noctua_nf-a12x25-_-1YF-000T-000K7-_-Product
there is nothing else on the market that comes close to those in terms of noise to performance in sane noise/RPM ranges.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 17, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

That's why i came here, to see if the fans were good, if i could get better ones, or an entirely different system such as a custom loop or a different AIO.

P.S. is there a blacked out version of those fans, that ugly brown is a MAJOR turn-off.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 18, 2018

Unfortunately there is no black version yet. They said there will be one eventually, but who knows when it will happen. I'm still waiting for the 140mm version of this fan. The color is solvable by painting the frame with spray. As a side note, silent wings are good fans, you just asked for the BEST. Same can be said about Noctua's NF-F12 fans (they do come in black) - i'm using them for the last few years.

Regarding what to chose as cooler, please share your system spec and environment conditions (like the room temperature for the most part of the year).
Also your (ordered) priorities like performance, noise, looks, reliability, maintenance, expandability, customization etc.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 19, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QdPTpG

I'm building my own desk of my own design when i get the $$ to hold all my gaming stuff. (Gaming center for PC and Consoles) Not sure if i'll still be at this place by that time, but it jumps between 40-50F in the winter and 90 in the summer. It's my mothers place and the sunroom has no AC or heat. *can't wait to move out*

Feel free to suggest changes.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 23, 2018

there are few things that are not really optimal.
are you sure you want to go SLI? there is very little practical reasons to do so since there are few supported titles and even less that working properly. IMHO get the best single card now and upgrade every couple of years.
At 32C (90F) you don't want 1000w of heat from computer dumped into the room. you can try it with some heater and see how bad it is.
Also the 900 is a nice case, it's just nit that good at airflow (as all silent oriented cases). not that great idea to put that much HW in a (can be) hot room.
Since you want to combine all the gaming sources, you might want to look at other direction - extremely small, and yet powerful system.

As for cooling, for 2700X you'd be well beyond fine with high end Be Quiet/Noctua air cooler

If you insist on liquid, do the whole custom thing including GPU. with those asetek jokes (https://www.asetek.com/desktop/do-it-yourself/) you going to throw 250-350$ (including fans) for nothing.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 24, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

I know the FTW3 is an uber powerful card, i was just concerned that two of those Alienwares that are GSync and near 4K res on a screen that size might be a bit much if all on the one card. Plus, when i was originally searching a psu, i heard from Linus and JayzTwoCents to get more then what i need for what they called an 'Efficiency Curve, i may be wrong' Plus, when i get the money from my job, i'll ask queen bee if i can throw an AC unit in the room so heat won't be an issue. Thanks for the help with the cooler, i definitely want a liquid system so i'm searching around for one. I planned on OC'ing, so it all depends on what i get and how it works in my build before i can say how far i can push it. Worst case scenario, i stick with the AIO and those Noctua fans. (blacked out, i hate that brown, HATE IT) What other case would you suggest that's bigger?, i liked this because of the sound deadening and German Built quality.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 24, 2018

https://www.swiftech.com/kits.aspx
those are "proper" AiOs that are good to begin with and are customizable/expandable.
As for overclocking, 2700X is working great with XFR. you don't need to manually overclock the CPU. Just the RAM. So again, you can do it just fine with good air cooler. If anything, it's the GPUs that worth to liquid cool in such setup.
As for the heat, I wasn't talking about the PSU. For such system I'd personally go with 1200-1600w unit.
I was talking about the power consumption of the components.
the CPU can be pushed towards 200w, the cards can do 300w each, RAM, MB, fans etc - another 50-100w + the monitors.
those power consumption watts are roughly equal to heat watts dumped into the room. same principle as electrical heater - electricity goes in, heat goes out. This is not entirely correct analogy and rough equality, but good enough for estimation.
So under extreme conditions your rig can consume ~900W.

About case, take a look at Fractal's Define R6 or some phanteks cases. the thing is that with more "open" case that is less restrictive for airflow, the fan's speed can be much lower = lower noise

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 25, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

Just did some digging around, how about this? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?reviews=all&Item=N82E16811119323

Won't be using any internal disc drives and only 2-4 SSD's, so i can always add extra fans if need be. Just watched the HardwareCanucks review on YT, could always swap the fans for the Noctua fan you suggested earlier. (Brown... *gag*) Plus the cables, i can always order higher quality versions of those accessory cables, thankfully there are people that do. Price of this doesn't bother me, i like the way it looks and want the best period. One thing, those swift tech AIO's are all out of stock, at least the bigger one are. Thanks for helping me out here, sry i didn't say that earlier.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 25, 2018

I wouldn't consider HardwareCanucks channel a good tech source. they do great with artistic staff like monitors color accuracy and excellent shots, but everything that requires geekiness is not there.
That CM case is over 10 years old design with a face lift. also too expensive for what it is.
if price is not a concern, go for Phanteks Elite - that's the true the best XD
As for AiO, https://www.swiftech.com/drivex3aio.aspx those are available in both 240 and 360. both are capable to cool 2 GPUs.
if you also want the CPU, add another rad.
I've helped a friend to build (8700K + 2x1080Ti) + (6700K + GTX 1080) in Phanteks Elite (two systems in one case) in a single loop. We used 2x http://hardwarelabs.com/nemesis/gtx/560gtx/ radiators. dead silent event under heavy load.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 25, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

*gulp* $900, that case price did make me shiver a bit. I'm not sure if i want to OC the gpu, was thinking of leaving the stock cooler on there, see the performance at load and make a determination. If i do, i'll custom loop it with the 560gtx. Thanks.

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 26, 2018

that's why i recommended Define R6. TG version looks good, but functionally and "airflow restrictions" - it's one of the best cases out there.
for CPU alone, you can easily go with 240.
the liquid for GPUs is not for overclocking, but for stable boost clocks. I found that when the GPU frequency fluctuate, it may result in slightly perceivable freezes. So i just "lock" the frequency. that requires liquid cooling that absorbs spikes and hence prevents thermal "throttling".

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

n0ns3ns3 :

Ahh, didn't think of it that way, looks like i will be liquid cooling my GPU's then, and maybe make $$ from reselling the FTW3 fans. (if i can do that.) Plus, i love that case and am all over it, just made me jump initially when i first saw the price. Room for rads for CPU and GPU cooling will definitely not be an issue with this case.

Will having my CPU and GPU running on two different systems help with cooling performance? If yes, will this suffice? http://www.swiftech.com/komodo-nv-gtx-1080-ti-sli.aspx

Karadjgne · Aug 26, 2018

The 'best' is something that's really hard to actually quantify as a lot depends on situation. I'm running a FD define R5 Window, it's a silent case and has tested as not quite so good in the airflow department when the door is closed. Ambient tips run 23°C. With a kraken x61 on an i7-3770K at 4.9GHz, I was seeing 72°C under torture yet fans never went beyond 900rpm. A faster fan is not always better or more effective, as in the case of the 1000rpm Noctua NF-F12 which is a far more effective rad fan than the 2800rpm noise monster fans that came on the Corsair H110i. Going from Silent mode to Performance mode and pumping fans from 900rpm to the rated 2000rpm gets me a 3°C drop in cpu temps under torture and 1°C in gaming. Gaming is generally @55°C. So what's best? Silent mode, by a long shot. It's simply not worth the extra effort and fan noise to get such small gains.

With today's cpus, this is one of aircoolers largest advantages, any decent cooler is going to match or even sometimes beat cpu temps on average, because the cpu simply doesn't put out the heat energy older cpus did. When a cpu is topping out @200w, any 250w+ aircooler is going to be the same as the big aios, even though those aios can handle upto 350w+. The wattage/temp lines don't scale linearly, but logarithmically, so a nice long curve upto saturation, then a sharp climb up.

Honestly, with the build you have planned, I'd be looking at something more like this, show it off, add some bling etc

Case: Thermaltake - The Tower 900 ATX Full Tower Case ($218.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Also, as mentioned, sli isn't as good as it used to be, it's dieing a slow death with DX12 becoming more popular, it's native to Win10 and has no support for sli or CF. That said, might be better off not going with a 1080ti setup for 4k but flipping the lip and getting a single, stronger 2080ti, which has better results in 4k across the board, being a single card.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

The 'best' is something that's really hard to actually quantify as a lot depends on situation. I'm running a FD define R5 Window, it's a silent case and has tested as not quite so good in the airflow department when the door is closed. Ambient tips run 23°C. With a kraken x61 on an i7-3770K at 4.9GHz, I was seeing 72°C under torture yet fans never went beyond 900rpm. A faster fan is not always better or more effective, as in the case of the 1000rpm Noctua NF-F12 which is a far more effective rad fan than the 2800rpm noise monster fans that came on the Corsair H110i. Going from Silent mode to Performance mode and pumping fans from 900rpm to the rated 2000rpm gets me a 3°C drop in cpu temps under torture and 1°C in gaming. Gaming is generally @55°C. So what's best? Silent mode, by a long shot. It's simply not worth the extra effort and fan noise to get such small gains.

With today's cpus, this is one of aircoolers largest advantages, any decent cooler is going to match or even sometimes beat cpu temps on average, because the cpu simply doesn't put out the heat energy older cpus did. When a cpu is topping out @200w, any 250w+ aircooler is going to be the same as the big aios, even though those aios can handle upto 350w+. The wattage/temp lines don't scale linearly, but logarithmically, so a nice long curve upto saturation, then a sharp climb up.

Honestly, with the build you have planned, I'd be looking at something more like this, show it off, add some bling etc

Case: Thermaltake - The Tower 900 ATX Full Tower Case ($218.99 @ SuperBiiz)

Also, as mentioned, sli isn't as good as it used to be, it's dieing a slow death with DX12 becoming more popular, it's native to Win10 and has no support for sli or CF. That said, might be better off not going with a 1080ti setup for 4k but flipping the lip and getting a single, stronger 2080ti, which has better results in 4k across the board, being a single card.

No disrespect intended, but if you looked at the convo me and n0ns3ns3 had, we talked and made the switch to a Swiftech for CPU and GPU cooling and ditched replacement fans. Also, what would make that case better for my build over the Phanteks Elite? Care to explain? Though i do appreciate the feedback on the last thing you said about SLI and doing a single 2080ti.

Karadjgne · Aug 26, 2018

Ok, my logic, such as it is.

$900 for a case is nuts. It'd have to be something seriously special, and the looks of that Elite really aren't much different from many other full towers. And it's a full tower, so there's going to be by default all kinds of room for anything, especially since the 9-10 hdd tray with 5 optical slot designs are moot and obsolete now. So most full towers are going to be able to handle anything you need as far as 280/360mm or even upto 480/420mm rads.

You will also end up with and are starting out with, the potential for an absolute dream build. Done right, it shouldn't be anything less than gorgeous and full towers have the room to make wiring far easier than their smaller atx cousins. So no offense to the Elite, but with that potential, and that price tag, I'd wanna See! It.

I mentioned the aircooling as an option. Nonsense and I have had multiple discussions about the aio/air topic, and it's historically been me 'for' the aio, and him 'for' aircooling. So this is a switch. But either way, you aren't locked in by choices yet, maybe you'd want to actually fill up some pc space, an aio is great for the 'open' look, but that's kinda lost in the available space of a high visibility full tower.

Totally agree with the Swiftech's on the gpu, although if running a single 2080ti, you could loop the cpu in quite easily on a 360mm rad and have the next best thing to a full custom loop with 1 radiator. Would also cut down on necessary psu size.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

The main reason i settled with that case is i wanted the best period, price isn't a factor in this build, at all. Plus i really really liked the looks of it and had lots of room to do whatever witchcraft i pleased. Figuring also that when, i'd say 10+ years from now when the games of tomorrow finally do challenge my build, i can keep that case and upgrade everything else. Also, i do get the premise of saving and sticking with a decent air cooler, did it with my first build when i was getting into pc gaming in the FX-9590 days. Though idk where they stack up when it comes into OC'ing against an AIO or full custom loop. Plus, if it would be logical and fill up extra room and if it's not that much more expensive (i know i said price isn't a factor) Keep the GPU and CPU on their own system. My thinking was that they'll have different temps, one will be hotter and the other will raise in temperature more then i'd want because of warmer water temps, bad logic?

Karadjgne · Aug 26, 2018

yeah, with loops it doesn't really work out the way most ppl assume. Liquid temps are totally different to cpu temps and it takes a massive amount of heat energy to raise the coolant 1 degree. You have the fans blowing a constant 23ºC through a rad that's trying to be warmed upto the 55ishºC of the cpu, so you'll get a constant running loop measuring around 30-32ºC. You could game for 4 hours and barely get the liquid temp upto 35ºC.

So, even though a cpu is running at 60ºC and a gpu is running at 80ºC, that's not going to really affect the liquid temp much at all, simply not enough energy difference to worry about.

Think of a pot of water on the stove. Try boiling it on low (1) its going to take forever, if it even will boil. You could turn that upto med-low (4-5) and it'd still take forever to get to boiling. Even turning the burner to max (10) , water still takes time to boil, the higher volumes taking far longer, but consider the outputs of the burner. Low (1) to max (10) and exactly how much heat energy is different, and how long it still took to even get warm.

But running liquid cooling takes a difference in thought process. 70ºC is the line. Anything under 70 is all the same, a working temp, anything over 70 is hot. So gaming at 35º or at 65º makes absolutely no difference, theres nothing wrong, you aren't running tooo hot, theres no need to add rads or further fans or change fan curves or re-paste etc. All the same. So even running the loop based on gpus current temps , acclimating out to 1-2ºC higher, that means zip-zero-nada overall.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

yeah, with loops it doesn't really work out the way most ppl assume. Liquid temps are totally different to cpu temps and it takes a massive amount of heat energy to raise the coolant 1 degree. You have the fans blowing a constant 23ºC through a rad that's trying to be warmed upto the 55ishºC of the cpu, so you'll get a constant running loop measuring around 30-32ºC. You could game for 4 hours and barely get the liquid temp upto 35ºC.

So, even though a cpu is running at 60ºC and a gpu is running at 80ºC, that's not going to really affect the liquid temp much at all, simply not enough energy difference to worry about.

Think of a pot of water on the stove. Try boiling it on low (1) its going to take forever, if it even will boil. You could turn that upto med-low (4-5) and it'd still take forever to get to boiling. Even turning the burner to max (10) , water still takes time to boil, the higher volumes taking far longer, but consider the outputs of the burner. Low (1) to max (10) and exactly how much heat energy is different, and how long it still took to even get warm.

But running liquid cooling takes a difference in thought process. 70ºC is the line. Anything under 70 is all the same, a working temp, anything over 70 is hot. So gaming at 35º or at 65º makes absolutely no difference, theres nothing wrong, you aren't running tooo hot, theres no need to add rads or further fans or change fan curves or re-paste etc. All the same. So even running the loop based on gpus current temps , acclimating out to 1-2ºC higher, that means zip-zero-nada overall.

I don't think you could make that a simpler explanation if you tried, thanks. When it comes to watercooling, i know there's a wide range of additives out there just like thermal paste. Which would you choose as the best?

Karadjgne · Aug 26, 2018

I'd not. Plain old deionized water. If you want color, add dye. Try and avoid Anything pastel, you'll burn out the pump in no time and takes a lot of maintenence and cleaning compared to plain water. Just a drop of anti-microbial and you are good.

N0ns3ns3 knows far more about all that than I do, when it comes to liquid cooling I'd trust his advice and opinion over anyone else (except 1 mod).

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

Damn it's that bad? Whew, guess i'll just stick with red dye and a touch of anti-microbial. Thanks.

Karadjgne · Aug 26, 2018

If you look at the waterblock on a cpu, it's a lot like an aircooler heatsink on its side, pressurized water comes in one end, gets forced through those fins, picks up heat, goes back to pump. Rinse and repeat. Those fins don't flex or change, but increasing the viscosity or thickness of the liquid, which is what happens with the pastel, pasty type liquids, increases the pressure needed to force that gunk though those tiny fin gaps, force it through the g1/4 fittings, etc etc. All that just increases the wear on the pump, if the pressure gets too high, the pump burns out.

Mostly, those pastels are strictly for show pc's, for a functional daily driver, less is more.

Alpha Gametauri · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

Yea, it'd really suck if i burned out the pump from making the fluid too thick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LjqCoVbZ_g <- Am i the only one that felt like back handing this dude?

n0ns3ns3 · Aug 26, 2018

Karadjgne :

Nothing has changed - i'm still against sealed AiOs in most cases (hint asetek/CM). Never had anything against AiOs from swiftech and EK

And if you read the thread, we kinda agree on practically everything:
1. the cooling
2. the case - except there is some value in Elite: dual system and massive radiator support including 2x560 (that's 4x140 sections each). And it is built very well. Though I'd not pay that much for a case.
3. the multi GPU
And many other things

Well, except the 360 AiO for both CPU and GPU. it will not be able to cool them QUIETLY (OP's requirement) even at 25C ambient.
and probably anything else. I'm just not stopping people from spending money if they want to as long as it is conscious decision.

@Alpha Gametauri
with your choice of the CPU, the difference between auto and manual overclock will be 100-200MHz at best. that's 2.5-5% at best. not worth the effort. So a decent air cooler will do the job. with new sockets, you will have to change, modify CPU cooler be it liquid or air anyway within 10 years. the case, you will want to change it for long list of reasons within same period of time.
Don't expect the GPU to be relevant for 10years. it should be upgraded every 3-5 years. IIf you play simple games, buy 200$ GPU and upgrade it every few years - much more value. And since you are talking about 4K - even the most expensive GPU is not capable today to give you stable 60FPS on max settings.
Just build a system that can do whatever you NEED today with some headroom, put it in a nice case and spend the money on the girlfriend or whatever else

Replacement radiator fans for Arctic Liquid Freezer 360?

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