I want to install an ssd but i have some questions

Voltage has little to do with how much power a device consumes. Some, but primarily we're concerned with watts (Or even amps) when it comes to estimating whether the current PSU is sufficient. Not voltage.

I can't say that your system won't take a dirt nap because of the shitty PSU, but it WON'T be because of the SSD. Your whole system probably uses less than 300w, if that. Does your graphics card use a six pin or is it slot power only?

Well, if you're using molex connectors to power your GPU card, that's a ticking time bomb configuration. Especially with a borderline capacity, assuredly low quality unit. I'd suggest that you do this, which I'd think practically anybody could afford, BEFORE doing an SSD.

The nice thing about this, in addition to no longer having to rely on molex adapters and a probable fire starter unit, is that it's probably good enough quality and high enough capacity for almost any single graphics card out there except maybe two or three current models.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $27.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-21 00:52 EDT-0400

NOOOOOOOOOOO!

Chieftec is one of the absolute worst brands you could ever buy.

I know you are limited where you are, but you REALLY want to avoid ANY of these, no matter what:


Tier Five - Replace immediately. These units are NOT recommended for any system, no matter the purpose. Reference to higher tiered models for a better and potentially money-saving unit


A-TOP technology
Apevia
Apex (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Artic / Ace (They're the same company)
Aspire (Turbocase)
ATADC
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
CIT
Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower
Dynex
Eagletech
Enlight
Evo labs
EZ-cool
Foxconn
G7
HEC / Compucase Orion
HEDY (should be WAAAYYY lower down than these units. They're that bad)
iStar computer co.
Jeantec
JPac
Just PC
Linkworld electronics
Logisys computer
Macron
MSi (just stick to their GPUs and motherboards)
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
Okia
Powercool
Powmax
Pulsepower
Q-tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
SFC
Sharkoon
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Startech
Storm
Sumvision
Tesla

Thermaltake -
BronzeMunich 430w
Purepower NP / RU
TR2 and TR2-RX

Trust (Stick to their peripherals)
Wintech
Winpower
xTreme (Cyberpower PSUs)
Youngbear
Zebronics


Anything made by one of the listed brands, or sold by them, should be avoided entirely. In the case of Thermaltake, the models to avoid are listed, and for the MOST part, only those are to be completely avoided. They may have other models that are better, but still not good, that you might not want to look at though.

If possible, try to do the following.

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states. The Antec High current gamer units that are not 520w or 620w, are very good and are not the older design. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

They CAN be used, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and bad. Bad are the W1, N1, B1, B3 and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

In your case though, there MAY be a few Cooler Master models that we could look the other way in regard to if nothing else is available or within budget.

Believe me, I help people from all countries of the world, all the time, and I'm well aware of the lack of quality PSU availability in a lot of places. There is almost always at least SOMETHING you can get that isn't likely to blow directly up though, like most of those I listed above from our old Tier 5 on the PSU list that used to be here.

Yes, it worked up until now, but for one you are adding additional hardware so as you know that's going to at least minimally increase the load on the PSU, and it's going to do it on one of the minor rails which tend to be particularly weak on cheap power supplies. Graphics cards generally use the 12v rail but other hardware uses 5v in a lot of cases.

Also, think about this. Everything that ever failed, was working fine right up until it wasn't. And at that point, it's too late to do anything about it. All you can do then is hope that it doesn't take anything else out with it when it goes and the probability that it WILL is a lot higher on a cheap power supply due to either the lack of protections or protections that are there but are not implemented well, than on a high quality unit that uses quality components for the platform and protections.