Liquid metal is not all its cracked out to be!

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Sep 25, 2018
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I am heavily overclocking an Intel i9-7980XE CPU and decided to use liquid metal. I delidded the CPU and am using Der8auer's Direct Die Frame allowing me to put the cold plate of my custom water cooling loop directly on the chip silicon.

The problem is that the silicon die itself is slightly convex at its top. This apparently is a common issue - the CPU chip itself not being perfectly flat. It is less of an issue with conventional thermal paste, which is much thicker than liquid metal and can be applied thick to make up for any die/heat-sink/cold-plate warping or imperfections.

With liquid metal though, and I am using Thermal Grizzly Conductanaut, the general recommendation is to apply a thin coat to the silicon and a thin coat to the heat-sink. This accepted approach does not work for me. Only an oval portion of the chip, representing maybe 33% of its central silicon area, is coming into contact with the perfectly flat top-notch mirror finished cold plate I am using, an Aqua Computer Cuplex Kryos Next Vario with Vision. The periphery of the silicon, due to the convexity of the chip (i.e., ever so slight central bulge) is not coming into contact with the cold plate under tension (regardless of how much tension).

The result of applying two thin layers of LM to the CPU die and cold plate, respectively, is that some cores, probably the ones along the periphery of the die, are not making contact with the cold plate and jump to the Tj MAX temperature (or close to it) at load. There is an almost 60 degree C disparity between properly cooled cores (near the center of the die) and the overheating ones at the periphery.

I have been able to resolve this on my motherboard which is sitting horizontally on a test-bed by applying a much thicker Conductanaut coat to both the die and cold plate. At this point, I see LM pooling on both surfaces, but the temps are uniform across cores and very very good when mounted.

My concern is that when I actually mount the motherboard vertically in a case, the liquid metal will pool over time to the bottom of the CPU die due to gravity. I have protected the CPU PCB with many layers of nail polish so that any spilled over LM will not short out the tiny resistors and caps on the CPU PCB, but as soon as the LM pools and shifts off of the top facing part of the CPU die, the cores situated at the top of the die will again lose contact with the cold plate and begin to overheat at load.

How can this be resolved, short of sanding down the silicon to make it perfectly flat and risking damage to a $2000 CPU (especially over time, as the protective layer at the top of the silicon will be sanded off)? Will the pooling be an actual issue or will capillary action and the surface tension of the Conductanaut be enough to prevent pooling due to gravity over time, when the motherboard is mounted into a common vertical position?

 
That's very unusual my 8700K is perfectly flat, I checked it with a razor blade but that is irrelevant to helping you with your situation as Der8auer's own product video mentions these CPUs are convex on the top.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_2YzZAOOLU

IMO, the best solution so you could successfully use the liquid Metal TIM is to micro sand the heat sink base and cut a concave into it so it fits the CPU die as close as possible.

That's easier said than done and a lot of work to get it right, but the end results will probably be better than Der8auer got from his mounting and testing.
 

rubix_1011

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This is an interesting problem - the tolerances in which this has to be accurate are most likely in the realm of fractions of millimeters.

Apart from laser etching the cooling block surface, it could also be micro honed or milled if someone has a CNC machine capable of the measurements.

Aside from that, yeah, hand sanding or abrasion might be possible on either the CPU or the cooling block, but you're right on being worried about ruining such an expensive processor if things go sideways.

Would a thin, soft copper shim provide better coverage as a sort of thermal pad to allow better contact between the CPU and block?

In your opinion, what is the depth difference that is preventing good contact?
 
Sep 25, 2018
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The depth difference is on the order of microns to tens of microns, I would guess, based on De8auer sanding down his Skylake-X part for the same reasons (slightly convex top). A soft copper shim will most likely not help, because even if I can get it to conform via pressure to make up the difference, I would have two thermal interface (top and bottom of the shim, respectively) instead of one. Plus, liquid metal and copper is not the best solution for the long term as the galium gets absorbed and lower's the copper's head conduction characteristics (on both sides, not to mention). The cold plate is nickel plated, so its interaction with the LM is minimal. My best bet is to make the Conductanaut LM not run down over time due to gravity and apply it thick, but how do I ensure this?
 
Sep 25, 2018
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It would be hard to microsand the heat sink base accurately because we're talking microns here and I'd have to get a footprint from the contact area as I go to get it right. This is not even taking into account that I'd have to sand the cold plate concave which I have no idea how I would do accurately (and smoothly).
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
My best bet is to make the Conductanaut LM not run down over time due to gravity and apply it thick, but how do I ensure this?

This sounds like the big question and I apologize around the question on the copper shim piece - I wasn't aware we were talking something on that minute of a scale.

In this indication, I would agree more with 4ryan6 that it might be the best method to try and modify the central block for a minor depression unless there is a relatively safe way to trim the convex feature of the CPU itself.
 
Sep 25, 2018
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I suppose I can run the motherboard vertical for a week and see what happens with regard to temperatures, to see if the Conductanaut is running and pooling towards the bottom of the die/cold plate.

I probably need to run through multiple contraction/expansion cycles (i.e., hot die/cold die) to accelerate this.
 


#1: Does the silicon peak in the center like a low pyramid shape?

#2: Or does it peak like a roller coaster with 2 sides parallel from one end to the other?

I'm asking simply because this is an issue I would definitely resolve by modding the conductor base plate concave to match the convex surface of the DIE.

Using the right abrasives to do the job it is not as difficult as it seems just please answer is it #1 or #2?

 


To the OPs quote: Liquid metal has to be in surface contact or it will go where gravity pulls it!

To Rubix quote that's underlined: There is no safe way to trim the top of the silicon die flat, that pretty much is guaranteed destruction.

Modifying the cooler base plate is the best and safest way to do it.

 
https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Aqua_Computer/cuplex_kryos_NEXT_CPU_Waterblock/3.html

Kudos to German engineering but IMO the vision part is unnecessary bling, but that's a choice for the buyer that wants that feature.

The internal design of the block leaves you with only sanding a concave profile option, but this is one time and situation that if the silicon is peaked as #1, then you could finger sand the center contact area using 1,000 grit auto body paper.

Then go to higher grits like 1,500 or 2,000 and leave it hazy as the liquid metal loves hazy.

The reason to start with 1,000 grit is it cuts a lot faster and you don't want to start with lower grits like 600 as it cuts the metal much deeper, and you'll be fine tuning from the beginning with the small amount you'll be removing.

If it's profiled as #2 that's a little more difficult but still doable.

IF: You decide to go this route use some cheap TIM and do test fits to see where your are at with the thermal footprint, and what may need more work, be patient, take your time, and you will achieve your goal.
 
Sep 25, 2018
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From what I can tell, it peaks like the top of an egg with a slightly oval 2D projected representation. I am basing this on the liquid metal "fingerprint" where contact was made.
 
Sep 25, 2018
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OK, I will hold on to the cold plate sanding option as the option of last resort.

For now, I have rotated the motherboard vertical (oriented correctly just as it would be in a case, with a twist tie supporting the video card up so that it does not destroy the PCIe slot), to see if the LM runs over a week or two's time as I do stress tests (hot/cold) to expand/contract everything around it.

Plan 1:
If there is no change in the consistency of temps after two weeks, I am going to leave things as they are and hope that the surface tension and capillary action are enough to hold the LM in place over several years time and that the LM will not gradually flow/sag down as time passes.

Plan 2:
If it does sag down, I will reapply the liquid metal in the thinnest coat possible so that the dies still makes good contact with the cold plate and I get temps consistent with the current application (I am logging the temps). There will still be puddling, but the puddles will not be as thick, since I was very generous with the LM this time around and applied 3-4 coats of the stuff - way more than probably necessary. If it doesn't run now, it certainly will not run if I apply fewer coats.

Plan 3:
Go with your idea and start sanding down the middle of the cold plate. I really want to avoid this since it is a pretty expensive (German) item, that took me two weeks to get in the mail. Also, if I sand the nickel plating off, I will be using Conductanaut with copper - not the best idea for the long term due to intermetallic CuGa2 compound creation (and not an alloy of the two, as stated incorrectly all over the internet) as the gallium reacts with the copper over time.



 
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