power supply is messing with my gpu, wich causes lines all over my screen

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
Hey guys so I have recently gotten lines on screen from the gpu and thaught it might be fried but I have stumbled on to something.

The power cabbles keep slipping out and everytime I hear them clip in but I also drive with my pc in the car.

It has gotten to the point where my pc won't even start up when 1 of the cables slipped out.

My question is. Is there a way to keep these cables from being able to slip out altogether? Obviously I do not want to resort to glue or anything because I still want to upgrade my pc
 
Solution
Not sure man. Like I said, I THINK that if you are able to get zip ties, a pack of 14" zip ties might cure the problem. Pull ties, not sure what they call them where you are.

These:

61sXH3jtBDL._SX425_.jpg



Use one to pull the two cables together and then use one, all the way around the card, to pull THAT zip tie down snug so that the cables can't pull out of the socket.

Might want to pull those connectors out and check the card to see that the little tiny plastic lip where the lock tab retainer on the end of the cable is supposed to clip over to hold it down isn't broken or worn off, and that the plastic retainer on the cables isn't either.

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
The lines are horizontal. But if it has slipped far enough then they becom vertical and all different colours for anybofy that has that problem. Please check to see if the cables that power your gpu is clipped in right
 

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
It's the raidmax RX - 700AC - B

Ive had it for quite some time. As I said I transport my pc alot almost every second day so the rateling of the car could maybe just be getting to these clips since they are attatched to the highest point and on a flex side of The GPU. I just need a way to secure these 2 clips for good as I now for sure after 4 weeks of troubleshooting for sure know this is the root of my problems
 
You got a picture of the graphics card, with the plugs connected? I'm thinking that two zip ties would solve the problem. One of them would need to be about a 14" zip tie. Use one to zip tie the two bundles of cable together and then another to run over that zip tie, and around the card, to keep the connectors pulled down into the sockets.

Honestly though, you REALLY need to consider getting a better power supply. Raidmax in general is horrific when it comes to PSU quality, and if yours wasn't a 700w unit (VERY unlikely it can sustain that, which is probably contributing to some of your problems) I'm quite sure you'd exceed it's capabilities already. That specific model is not one of their very worst, but that's not saying much either.

Raidmax is one of those companies that when it comes to their power supplies, we generally tell people to get them out as fast as possible because we've seen a number of them fry the rest of the system when they finally do decide to take a dirt nap. Protections are either terrible or non-existent on most their units. Build quality is garbage on every Raidmax unit I've ever seen, heard of or read a review about. Andyson and HEC are their OEMs and neither of those companies has a very good track record, plus with a bargain barrel company like Raidmax you can be sure that they set the bar for their PSU manufacturer, whether Andyson or HEC, very low. Priority is likely more focused on marketing and the exterior of the unit than anything inside.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

80plus only has relevance if the platform is already known to be a good one.

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and bad. Bad are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=563

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3612443/power-supply-discussion-thread.html
 

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
I reside in South Africa.

How do you upload a picture on this site?

So you are saying with PSU it's bad to save on and rather go for quality than looks? I chose this because it looked like average enough quality to run my system with very good look
 
These are the brands that you pretty much want to avoid EVERY model they make.

A-TOP technology
Apevia
Apex (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Artic / Ace (They're the same company)
Aspire (Turbocase)
ATADC
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
CIT
Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower
Dynex
Eagletech
Enlight
Evo labs
EZ-cool
Foxconn
G7
HEC / Compucase Orion
HEDY (should be WAAAYYY lower down than these units. They're that bad)
iStar computer co.
Jeantec
JPac
Just PC
Linkworld electronics
Logisys computer
Macron
MSi (just stick to their GPUs and motherboards)
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
Okia
Powercool
Powmax
Pulsepower
Q-tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
SFC
Sharkoon
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Startech
Storm
Sumvision
Tesla

Thermaltake - (These models, but mostly all their other units are either sketchy quality or overpriced)
(BronzeMunich 430w
Purepower NP / RU
TR2 and TR2-RX)

Trust (Stick to their peripherals)
Wintech
Winpower
xTreme (Cyberpower PSUs)
Youngbear
Zebronics


I already outlined the models that are primarily trustworthy and of good quality, in my last post.


This is how you post images here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2580030/detailed-instructions-posting-images-tom-hardware.html
 
Not sure man. Like I said, I THINK that if you are able to get zip ties, a pack of 14" zip ties might cure the problem. Pull ties, not sure what they call them where you are.

These:

61sXH3jtBDL._SX425_.jpg



Use one to pull the two cables together and then use one, all the way around the card, to pull THAT zip tie down snug so that the cables can't pull out of the socket.

Might want to pull those connectors out and check the card to see that the little tiny plastic lip where the lock tab retainer on the end of the cable is supposed to clip over to hold it down isn't broken or worn off, and that the plastic retainer on the cables isn't either.
 
Solution

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
Ok dude. I have done it. But it still doesn't work and still shows up every time a boot up for the first time the day. I have now started to take out and put back my gpu every time I want to play because it seems to be the only thing I can fo to get the lines away for the session
 

dianmeyer0

Prominent
Dec 17, 2017
15
0
510
Hey dude. So I tested with a much older GPU so old that GPU-Z could not even pick it up but it ran perfectly except for the fact that I could only get 2fps out of it wich tells me my gpu is fried and the mobo is still fine.

Could you recommend a gpu for the build I have?

I don't feel like I know enough about this type of thing and might just buy the beat thing and blow the rest of my system...