New Build i5 8600k?

Pug80

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Im wondering what this new build I've almost completed is going to do. I havent played a pc game for over 3 years. Heres what I got going on.


Component Selection Base Promo Shipping Tax Price Where
CPU

Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
$259.89 FREE $259.89 OutletPC Buy
CPU Cooler

Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
$22.00 (Purchased)
Thermal Compound

Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
$7.00
Motherboard

Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
$155.00 (Purchased)
Memory

G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
$114.99 FREE $114.99 Newegg Buy
Storage

Samsung - PM961 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
$64.84 Free two-day shipping with Amazon Prime $64.84 Amazon Buy

Toshiba - 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
$44.90 (Purchased)
Video Card

EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
$380.00 (Purchased)
Case

Raidmax - Hurricane (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
$55.00 (Purchased)
Power Supply

Apevia - 750W ATX Power Supply
$52.00 (Purchased)
Operating System

Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
$95.00 (Purchased)
Case Fan

Cooler Master - Blade Master 54.8 CFM 92mm Fan
$7.00

Cooler Master - Blade Master 54.8 CFM 92mm Fan
$7.50

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$6.50

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$6.50

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
$6.50 (Purchased)
Fan Controller

Scythe - Kaze Master Flat II Fan Controller
$39.00 (Purchased)
Monitor

Samsung - S24B240K 23.6" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor
$160.00 (Purchased)
Keyboard

Azza - Poseidon Wired Gaming Keyboard
$22.00 (Purchased)
Mouse

Azza - Diablo Wired Optical Mouse
$7.50 (Purchased)
Headphones

Logitech - B530 Headset
$35.00 (Purchased)
Speakers

Logitech - S-150 1.2W 2ch Speakers
$12.00 (Purchased)
Custom WOWLED RGB​ LED Strip​ Light Kit $11.99 (Purchased)
Total (Not Yet Purchased): $474.22
Total (Purchased): $1097.89
Total: $1572.11
 
Solution
Without commenting too much on the fan selection, which frankly is poor quality but will likely work, for a while at least, I'd probably recommend that you try to find memory closer to the 3000/3200mhz mark.

It won't give you a tremendous performance difference, but it will offer increased performance to some degree at least and usually you can find modules in those speeds within a few dollars of the price of 2133/2400mhz modules.

FOR GOD'S SAKE, don't use that Apevia power supply if you care even minimally about the rest of your hardware. They are arguably one of the worst "known" brands you could possibly buy, and I mean out of EVERYTHING out there.

Horrific quality and potentially dangerous units. All of them. Every Apevia...
Without commenting too much on the fan selection, which frankly is poor quality but will likely work, for a while at least, I'd probably recommend that you try to find memory closer to the 3000/3200mhz mark.

It won't give you a tremendous performance difference, but it will offer increased performance to some degree at least and usually you can find modules in those speeds within a few dollars of the price of 2133/2400mhz modules.

FOR GOD'S SAKE, don't use that Apevia power supply if you care even minimally about the rest of your hardware. They are arguably one of the worst "known" brands you could possibly buy, and I mean out of EVERYTHING out there.

Horrific quality and potentially dangerous units. All of them. Every Apevia model I've ever seen was complete junk.

Send it back if you can, and if you can't throw it away and take the loss, learning a lesson along the way. They are worse in most cases than Raidmax, which itself is pretty terrible when it comes to power supplies.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

80plus only has relevance if the platform is already known to be a good one.

Seasonic. Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions. Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have good and bad. Bad are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=563

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3612443/power-supply-discussion-thread.html


If you need me to, I can show you more threads and reviews regarding the horrific nature of Apevia power supplies then you'd ever have the stomach to actually read through.

 
Solution
Ok
1. That PSU choice is horrendous. Get a Seasonic focus Gold, EVGA Supernova G2/G3, or Corsair TX/Rmx series.
2. Z390 motherboard is overkill for a 8600k unless you want to get a max overclock. In that case you would need a better CPU cooler.
3. The 212 EVO is a decent cooler but wont reach max overclocks.
4. RAM will work but usually 3200mhz is,recommended.
5. A 1080gtx is overkill based on your display choice. A 1080gtx is capable of 144hz at 1080p, and over 60fps depending on settings for 1440p and,2160p. I would get a 1070gtx or a 1440p monitor.
6. Not a fan of the case, better ones,for that price.
 

Pug80

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Oh wow. Very impressed with your response. Wasn't expecting this. Well I am certainly no computer Builder or anything like that but I do have money to play with and I enjoy the process. Back at the end of 2014 I purchased a cyberpowerpc from Costco. And that was the first time I ever played a game on the computer. The case a couple of the fans and the power supply are still what came with the original build. Since then I have had a GTX 770 FTW and just recently a 1070 FTW and sold it within a month to get a 1080 that's on the way now. It's kind of fun to be honest.

Here is the original build that I started with.
CAS: Raidmax Trinity Mid-Tower Gaming Case w/ USB 3.0, & Side-Panel Window (White Color)

CASUPGRADE: None

CD: None [-13]

CPU: AMD A8-6600K 3.90GHz Quad-Core APU w/ Integrated Radeon HD 8570D [-20]

CS_FAN: Default case fans

FAN: AMD Certified CPU Fan & Heatsink [-27]

FLASHMEDIA: INTERNAL 12in1 Flash Media Reader/Writer [+10] (BLACK COLOR)

HDD: 1TB SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 32MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive)

HDD2: None

HEADSET: None

IUSB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports

KEYBOARD: AZZA Multimedia USB Gaming Keyboard

MEMORY: 8GB (4GBx2) DDR3/1866MHz Dual Channel Memory [-5] (Corsair or Major Brand)

MONITOR: None

MOTHERBOARD: MSI A78M-E35 FM2+ AMD A78 ATX- USB 3.0 + SATA 6GB/s, GbLAN, 1 PCIe x16, 1 PCIe x1, 1 PCI [-32]

MOUSE: AZZA Optical 1600dpi Gaming Mouse with Weight Adjustable Cartridge

NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network

OS: Microsoft® Windows 8.1 (64-bit Edition) + Office 365 FREE 30 Days Trial

POWERSUPPLY: 600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready [+8]

RAMDISK: None

RUSH: Standard processing time: ship within 2 to 3 weeks

SERVICE: STANDARD WARRANTY: 2-YEAR [2 Year Labor, 2 Year Parts] LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT

SOUND: HIGH DEFINITION ON-BOARD 7.1 AUDIO

TEMP: None

VIDEO: EVGA Superclocked NVIDIA GeForce GT 740 2GB GDDR3 PCIe 3.0 x16 Video Card [+109] (Single Card)

WNC: None





I honestly don't quite understand some of the things you were mentioning about the power supplies but certainly I understand that the one I have is not going to suffice. I would just rather for someone like you to tell me the exact one to go get LOL
 

Pug80

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Okay I'm doing my best to try and keep up with you guys. From what I'm gathering the first thing I'm going to do is go ahead and fix the power unit. I definitely agree about the 1080 FTW. However I've had my eyes on a couple sweet monitors. I definitely had no intention to keep with the 1080p. But I am however in limbo when it comes do I want 1440 or 4K? I understand the difference is there but still kind of undecided which route to go. I also figured that the z370 what future-proof me a little bit considering I got a brand new board and it didn't cost me something like 150. I definitely knew that the 212 Evo was not going to work if I wanted to play around with the 8600k. I believe I seen an article a few days ago that it could hit 5.2 or so? I don't actually see the point in that for no more than what I am doing. And yes I totally agree about the ram and see what y'all are saying. I don't see a huge price difference whatsoever.
 

Pug80

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Actually I haven't purchased the ram yet. I have a couple offers out on the ones I mentioned in the build. So I definitely will go with the larger. I believe these monitors are going to be somewhat tricky? Do y'all think it would be wise to go 4K or 1440? And man I did not mean to hit that minus button on the side of your comment. I apologize for whatever that may do
 

Pug80

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True that absolutely makes sense. What to completely build I still have to hit the buy now button on the processor, the Ram in the SSD. I might as well throw the PSU into the mix as well. Are there any suggestions where to find a good monitor without having to rob a bank LOL? I figured something like that it would be good to wait for Black Friday
 
How much are you able to budget for JUST the power supply? Give me that, and I'll give you the best unit you can get for that price.

Also, are you in the US, or elsewhere?

We'll keep it simple and direct our attention to one component at a time so it doesn't get to be too much to focus on all at once.
 

Pug80

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CPU

Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor
OutletPC
CPU Cooler

Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
(Purchased)
Thermal Compound

Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
(Manual)
Motherboard

Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-H GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
(Purchased)
Memory

G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
(Purchased)
Storage

Samsung - PM961 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
Amazon

Toshiba - 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
(Purchased)
Video Card

EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
(Purchased)
Case

Raidmax - Hurricane (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
(Purchased)
Power Supply

EVGA - 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply
(Purchased)
Optical Drive
Operating System

Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
(Purchased)
Software
Case Fan

Cooler Master - Blade Master 54.8 CFM 92mm Fan
(Manual)

Cooler Master - Blade Master 54.8 CFM 92mm Fan
(Manual)

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
(Manual)

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
(Manual)

Kingwin - CF-012LB 40.0 CFM 120mm Fan
(Purchased)
Fan Controller

Scythe - Kaze Master Flat II Fan Controller
(Purchased)
Monitor

Samsung - S24B240K 23.6" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor
(Purchased)
Keyboard

Azza - Poseidon Wired Gaming Keyboard
(Purchased)
Mouse

Azza - Diablo Wired Optical Mouse
(Purchased)
Headphones

Logitech - B530 Headset
(Purchased)
Speakers

Logitech - S-150 1.2W 2ch Speakers
(Purchased)
External Storage
Custom
WOWLED RGB LED Strip Light Kit
(Purchased)


Been busy. I went ahead and purchased the RAM and a new PSU. I'm buying the processor this evening. Also I can't find the case that I have but it is definitely better than the one that I'm showing.
 
That's a description, not a model. And if that is the B1 or W1 EVGA 500w unit, you picked a really terrible unit and didn't pay any attention to the very explicit information I gave you earlier in the thread. I would return it ASAP and then read what I posted over again, this time actually absorbing the information I gave you there which I gave you in an attempt to help you avoid making this exact mistake.

I specifically explained to you this:

EVGA. They have good and not very good. Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model) and G1 NEX models. Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.
 

Pug80

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Okay let me get the exact model or just send you a picture of the box. I told somebody else a little bit ago that I actually found this thing and I had purchased it over 3 years ago and never mess with it. So I went ahead and took the other PSU out and put this one in.