Lend me a hand finding a gaming PC within my budget?

GenghisKhan

Commendable
Mar 14, 2017
6
0
1,520
An opportunity as of recent has come by for me to get a PC, though I'm still not TOO sure on the budget. From what I think, I'll have around 600 - 700$. I am wondering whether or not it's cheaper, and better, to buy a PRE-BUILT PC, or to simply build your own? I browsed through Reddit, and most people I've seen recommend building your own, claiming that it's "cheaper", and "more upgrade-able." On the other hand, on sites like Ebay, I've seen several computers around the 700$ - 800$ range that claim to be able to play AAA games with ease. So my question and request would be: Should I get a pre-built PC from somewhere like Ebay? Would it be cheaper? If it'd be better building my own, could you send me a parts list of what you think would be able to run AAA games with my budget?
 
You buy a system on Ebay, and you are on your own if something doesn't work out or fails. If you build it yourself, everything will have a warranty AND you can be more confident of using only high quality parts.

You MIGHT get a system that initially has higher performance parts, used, on Ebay, but you have no way to determine if something has been abused or overclocked, or run with too much voltage for too long, and may fail two weeks later. Prebuilt systems from companies that sell prebuilt machines are generally either overpriced or come full of problems PLUS you usually have to foot the bill to ship things back to the company if something goes wrong.

It's a lot cheaper, for example, to only have to ship a graphics card back to the manufacturer for replacement if it fails than it is to ship a whole PC when it does. And I see a lot more prebuilt systems fail than those that have been self built.

For 800 bucks you can build a fairly decent entry level gaming machine. What country are you in and what, if anything, do you already have that you wouldn't need to include such as a case, operating system or other hardware?
 

GenghisKhan

Commendable
Mar 14, 2017
6
0
1,520


That makes sense to me. Websites like Ebay & Amazon for pre-built gaming PCs never seemed too trustworthy to me. I just wanted clarification from someone more knowledgeable about it than me. Thank you for taking the time to read, and respond to my post.

To answer your question, I am in the United Sates, and as of now I have nothing picked out. I however, have an install of Windows 10, but besides that I have nothing. (Edit: My bad, I meant to respond directly to your post, but it seems I didn't do that.)
 
You reply looks fine to me. At least you didn't post quotes with no actual reply like half the first time posters do. LOL.

If you want to reply directly with no quotes, just click the box at the bottom of each thread where it says "Your answer" and then click Submit your answer when you are done.

So, not counting any desires for aesthetics really, and focusing strictly on the quality of ALL parts, trying to get both good quality, performance and the best value for your money, this would be my recommendation in the 800 dollar range.

Keep in mind, many other builds you might see are only that price IF you factor in the rebates. As far as I can tell, none of these items includes a rebate so the initial investment SHOULD be just what you see here.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8 GB Gaming 8G Video Card ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.71 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Fractal Design - FD-FAN-DYN-X2-GP12-PWM-WT 87.6 CFM 120mm Fan ($16.86 @ Newegg)
Total: $789.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-14 22:24 EST-0500


I wanted to try and include a GTX 1070 but there is really no way to do that without increasing the budget by about another fifty bucks or so without cutting corners elsewhere, which I don't recommend doing. THIS is a solid, high quality build for 1080p gaming. If you want to be able to game at 1440p OR if you plan to run a 144hz monitor, you WILL need to increase the budget by 50-100 bucks.
 

GenghisKhan

Commendable
Mar 14, 2017
6
0
1,520


Alright thanks! Again, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I might message you in the future whenever I get these parts if I have trouble putting it all together, that is if I can find no other way. I hope you don't mind. Anyways, I'll be sure to save this and keep it in mind! By the way, I don't mind going up the extra 50 - 100$ bucks as it is worth it in the end for the 1440p quality. Would you mind editing the PCPartPicker to include the GTX 1070- or whatever it was you you proposed to do to get it to play 1440 quality?
Thanks.

 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Hitachi - Ultrastar 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($38.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Windforce OC Video Card ($334.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.71 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Monoprice)
Total: $902.64
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-14 22:33 EST-0500



When you are ready to assemble the system I would highly recommend that you watch the following series of videos several times until you are pretty comfortable with going forward. I'll link the first video but there are 3 parts to the series so you can find the other two pretty easily.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIF43-0mDk4


Then, if you have SPECIFIC questions while doing the build, ask. Myself and many others here will be more than willing to lend a hand and make sure you get it done right with no problems. This is a very good resource to read and understand beforehand as well as it covers many of the mistakes first time builders overlook when trying to get their system to POST for the first time.

Click the spoiler.


For basic troubleshooting on systems that stick or won't POST, and are new or were working fine previously, or after adding new hardware, I recommend doing the following.

First, check everything as indicated here:


One thing that novice users, and sometimes veterans, make the mistake of doing is accidentally plugging their display cable into the motherboard video output instead of the graphics card. Make sure you didn't do that. Also, make sure the 6 or 8 pin power connectors from the power supply are plugged into your graphics card if you have a model that requires them.

If that turns up nothing then move on to the following and in cases where it may be redundant based on the steps at the previous link, I'd just check again anyhow. It's easy to miss something the first time around.

First, double check the population of your memory modules. Practically ALL motherboards from the last five to seven years use the same population rules.

If you have one module, it should be installed in the A2 slot, which is the second slot away from the CPU socket.

If you have two memory modules installed, they should be in the A2 and B2 slots, which are the 2nd and 4th slots away from the CPU socket.

If you have three or more modules installed, and it is only a four slot motherboard, I don't imagine it makes a lot of difference where the 3rd module is installed although I would probably recommend installing it in the B1 slot for the sake of keeping the clearance for your CPU cooler heatsink and fan.

14ik1hv.jpg


Always double check the population rules, especially if you have more than four memory slots, just in case. The population rules can always be found in the manual for your motherboard and YES, it does matter where they are installed. With only one or two modules installed if they are not in the correct slots it can result in anything from not being able to get them to run correctly at their XMP/AMP/DOCP profile settings, to not working at all, or anything in between.

If your motherboard specifies A2 and B2, as most all motherboards do, and you cannot get the memory to work correctly or at all in those slots but are 100% certain that there are no problems with your memory modules, then you have a motherboard issue.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If the system will not POST after resetting the CMOS, then there is a hardware problem of some kind.

At that point I would again power off, remove all memory except one module, installed in the A2 slot for most modern motherboards, or whatever slot your motherboard user manual specifies for single module population according to it's stated population rules. This matters. Boards MAY run with memory in various slots, but there ARE specific memory slots that are intended to be used with one, two, three, four or more modules installed and the manual will outline which of them should be used based on how many modules you are using.

If you have integrated graphics either on the motherboard itself, or through the motherboard using the CPU integrated graphics, then I'd connect your monitor cable to one of the motherboard video outputs and completely remove the graphics card from the system.

Now remove the CMOS battery again for another five minutes, then put it back again and once again try to POST. If you still get no love, try again using a different memory module.

If you do NOT have integrated graphics to use while troubleshooting, then you can either move along to other steps or try a different graphics card if you have one, or can borrow one.

If you still fail to get the system to POST then I'd recommend you pull the CPU cooler and remove the CPU to check for bent pins or an improperly installed CPU. For AMD systems the pins are usually on the CPU. For Intel platforms the pins are on the motherboard. You may need magnification of some kind to see whether any of the pins look bent, out of place or just "wrong" compared to the pattern of the rest of the pins. A cheap magnifying glass or high powered reading glasses should suffice if you have old eyes like me.

If the CPU and motherboard both look fine, then clean all the thermal paste off the top of the CPU and bottom of the CPU cooler heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and a lint free microfiber cleaning cloth, coffee filter or other lint free cloth. Apply fresh TIM (Thermal interface material aka thermal paste) according to your preferred method or the CPU cooler instructions and reinstall the CPU and CPU cooler.

Now it would be advisable to unplug all connected drives, reset the CMOS, again, and try again to POST or enter the BIOS. If you still cannot get the sytem to POST then you probably need to remove everything from the case and bench test the system according to the steps found here:


If your system is failing to display signs of power or other random power related issues, it would be advisable to purchase or borrow a DVOM (Digital volt ohm meter) or analog multimeter and do some basic power testing of the PSU to determine if there is a power delivery issue as follows:


If you still haven't found any indication of what the problem is, a few last resort measures would be to make sure the PSU is plugged directly into the wall and is NOT using any kind of UPS, power strip or extension cord.

Verify that the CPU cooler IS connected to the CPU_FAN header, as some systems will not even power up if there is no RPM signal from the CPU fan.

Anything beyond these basics is going to require some further conversation and possibly the replacement of your motherboard or CPU, as if everything listed above has checked out, there isn't much left it could be aside from one of those two things.
 
Solution
Older Hitachi drives were problematic. Newer ones are not. They became HGST and are now part of Western digital. If it's an OLD drive, it could have reliability issues. I do not believe that unit has those issues and Backblaze has not shown any reliability issues with Hitachi drives more than any other brand, but if concerned you could certainly do it like this.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ Adorama)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Windforce OC Video Card ($334.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.71 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Monoprice)
Total: $908.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-14 22:52 EST-0500