I dont know what CPU or GPU to get, can someone help?

Dec 10, 2018
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So for Christmas, I got the final parts for my PC and put everything together and downloaded all of my games. But sadly my PC wasn't able to handle most of the games I threw at it ex: Fortnite, Payday2, and Skyrim. I noticed while playing Fortnite my CPU seemed to pinned and 100% if not high 80s, I'm not too sure about my GPU being that it doesn't show in task manager. I guess I could have used HW monitor but you get the point. I'm not sure If it is my CPU or GPU if not both. I really don't get how AMD's products are names meanwhile Intel is simple XD. So does anyone know what is the next best CPU or GPU for me? I'll post my specs so yall can take a look. Kinda on a tight budget here so yeah. Thank you!

Specs:
CPU: AMD Athlon x4 845 quad core
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6450
Motherboard: MSI a68hm-e33 v2
PSU: Corsair cx 430
RAM: 8GB of ddr3
HDD: 1tb hard drive
 
Solution
Your CPU and GPU both are weak to handle modern title, you have to upgrade them both or aleast GPU a low price GPu like gtx750. It would give you better gaming performance

Phazoner

Distinguished
Both CPU and GPU are weak but the CPU should be able to handle that games (although it will probably deliver a poor performance in CPU demanding games like Battlefield or GTA V). You can upgrade to a low-spec graphics card like a GTX 750Ti, 950 or R7 270x.
 


And THAT, is basically your problem in an nutshell because practically all of your hardware is about four or more years old and was relatively weak WHEN it was new.

I'm sorry to say but in 2014, much less 2019, that hardware would have struggled with any demanding AAA games. I'm not sure why you threw money at a build that old unless you bought everything used or are in a country where hardware is very difficult to come by and expensive for modern components, but unfortunately both your CPU and graphics card are really too weak to do much with on modern games.

And the problem gets worse, because there are really no CPUs you can upgrade to that will be compatible with your motherboard's old FM2/FM2+ socket that would be worth spending any money on OR offer any significant performance gains. Overall, you wasted your money. I'm sorry, but that's the hard truth. For modern games, even ones a few years old, you'd want something MUCH newer than what you purchased. Probably minimum of a GTX 570 or 1050 TI and at least a Ryzen 3 CPU. Honestly, you'd probably have been better off with an old FX-6300 or 8320 CPU and an AM3+ motherboard and that's hard to tell you because THOSE weren't terribly good either but at least they were moderately capable.

If you want to upgrade to something that will give you high low to medium ish settings on those games, with 60fps, at 1080p (If that is the resolution and frame rate you are targeting) you're going to have a long road ahead of you because you're going to need a whole new motherboard, CPU and memory. Nothing you bought is really going to be useful in trying to put a system together that will be capable enough with the exception of possibly the memory. You could probably find and scrape together a Haswell system using that memory that would be a LOT better than what you currently have, and reuse that DDR3, but finding a deal on a used motherboard and CPU from the Haswell generation that will still be trustworthy and have enough life left in it to be worth spending money on might be a bit of a task. Heck, that graphics card is 9 years old and it was the LOWEST performance card of the HD 6xxx series THEN.

I would however recommend that you start with a graphics card, that is much more capable than what you currently have. At least THAT is something that WILL improve your gaming performance now even though you will be severely bottlenecked by that CPU, and will be a piece of the puzzle that you can carry over to whatever you upgrade to with the other parts when and if the day comes you are able to do that.

 
Dec 10, 2018
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Dec 10, 2018
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Not sure what is the right answer to my problem, tbh darkbreeze's response seemed to make the most sense I guess but I dont know.
 
Dec 10, 2018
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I really hope it is as simple as that, or else i just might have to buy a new CPU, GPU and motherboard.
 
[video="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bFMLy5kHMTE"][/video]

That's the 845 with a cheap gt 1030, which isn't really a gaming card but is about 10x more powerful than that hd6450.

Depending on your budget & location? you could go upto a rx 570 with that cx430 in there - but no more than that.

Your x4 845 is more or less on par with an 860k, it fairly low end but is capable of gaming absolutely.

[video="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e1Ld1_tzaYo"][/video]

That's an 860k with a rx 460

 
My recommendation would be to add one of these unless you're willing to also upgrade the power supply at the same time to a good quality unit. Upgrading it to a cheap quality 500w or higher unit gains you nothing except the need to once again replace it after we tell you it's too cheap to use with any decent gaming card, so the model you choose is very important. The brand, not as much so long as the model is good.

A GTX 1050 would be a pretty decent improvement over the graphics card you have now, but don't expect 60fps high settings at 1080p. You will likely see a lot less than that, but it will definitely be an improvement over what you have now. Personally, I would highly recommend at least a 1050 TI if not a 1060 or RX 570/580, especially if you think you might be able to also do a new motherboard, memory and CPU at some point within the next year.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 2 GB OC Video Card ($129.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $129.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-11 12:52 EST-0500


If you want to go with a higher end graphics card you could probably go as high as an RX 580 or GTX 1060 without REALLY bad problems due to the lack of CPU compute, but be aware you are STILL going to have some limitations due to lack of CPU muscle no matter what you choose if you choose a card capable enough to actually DO anything.

If you decide to also replace the PSU, I'd look mainly at the models recommended below. Click the spoiler box to see those.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JG for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.


And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.


Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.