CPU idles at 90c after some time

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jaimison

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Jan 5, 2019
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Hi,

I just built my pc this month and after a couple weeks of troubleshooting an ASUS mobo with their Thunderbolt EX3 card I decided to replace both with gigabyte's version. I'm only mentioning this because idk if it's relevant. My CPU temps were around 30-40C during that time.

I've been running it since, simply installing programs and transferring files intermittently between work and sleep and the temps stayed the same.

However, last night, after a few hours of gaming I was winding down for the night on youtube when I got a warning on CAM that my CPU hit 85C and by the time I opened the application to check, it hit 91. I immediately checked task manager, and I swear I saw a program utilizing the CPU (at around 20% it looked like) and then disappearing. So I shut off my PC and reopened in BIOS to watch my fans and temps. They stayed at around 26-30C so I restarted into Windows and ran my Bitdefender quick scan. No virus detected. I opened Netflix to try and recreate the same scenario with CAM open to monitor the temps. They were fine for about another 30 mins when they started to rise. CAM got to 71C before I opened task manager again. Same thing, I thought I saw a program open and then close immediately... This time, CAM stayed at ~70C with task manager open... for a considerable about of time. I honestly can't remember if it began to raise to 90C before I shut it off and decided to check online/troubleshoot today (currently at work so I'm stressing that I can't do anything till later tonight) I just remember it was odd that the temp stopped rising when I opened task manager.

I plan to reseat the AIO cooler as the first step. So far, this site has suggested to reapply paste (I'm using Arctic Silver 5) or that the pump could be dead (I had the fan header for it set to PWM). But none of the other threads have mentioned that the CPU doesn't immediately raise in temp like what I'm experiencing or the Task Manager oddity.

My specs:
BIOS: F5
CPU: i7 8700K
Cooler: Deepcool Captain EX 360
MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus z390 Pro
RAM: Vengeance 32GB 3200MHz (w/ XMP is only at 2100 MHz)
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1070 WF OC
GPU Cooler: Kraken x62
AIC: Gigabyte Titan Ridge

I haven't touched the OC settings, but I know that the MOBO already overclocked it to 4.3GHz
And I only messed with the fan settings a little setting them to PWM so they'll react to component temperatures. Which I feel could be partially the issure for the AIO pump.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
Yeah, the mobile site sucks, for now. If you're using a mobile device on the mobile version of the site they make it a PITA to navigate normally on here.

Ok, try going into the bios and setting the header the pump is attached to to 100% at all times. Full speed. That is how the pump should be configured. It should not change much at all based on temp. Only the radiator fans should change. Also, make sure your front radiator actually IS in an intake configuration. If you have both radiators with the fans blowing out and only the single bottom fan bringing air in, and it's not hard to accidentally orient the fans the wrong way (So just visual check that the side of the front fans with the fan blades is facing towards the outside of the...
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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First, PWM has nothing to do with fans "reacting to component temperatures". THIS, is what PWM is:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3025953/pwm-variable-voltage-controling-fan-speed.html#17786380


Secondly, no matter WHAT game, application or even virus/malware might be running, the system should STILL not be overheating. With that configuration at the stock setting (Even including the factory configured turbo boost speed) it should never exceed maybe 65-70°C, MAX, with that cooler. You have a cooling problem, no question.

Either your cooling fans on your radiator are connected to the wrong location/header, the water block is not well seated on the CPU heat spreader, the pump shaft is not actuating the pump proper, the pump motor is weak OR you have an air bubble in the system somewhere.

The first thing I'd do is check the mounting and possibly try unbolting the radiator so it will be easy to move around, then start up the system and carefully, and slowly, try raising or lowering the radiator while it is running to see if you can get the air bubble to free up.

Water cooling isn't my strongest area so some of the water cooling guys might have better, more specific information that could help, but those are the things you will want to focus on from the start. Looking at pump RPM will only tell you if the pump has stopped altogether, because the motor can be spinning while it fails to actually turn the pump and move anything.

I'd bet you have a pump or water block mounting issue, either that, or you've borked up the fan profile and have it reacting to something other than CPU temperature which is possible if those fans are connected to any header other than the CPU FAN, CPU OPT or if your cooler has it, the designated fan location on the pump itself.

A side side thought, it's also possible, but unlikely, that your configuration is to blame. Knowing where the radiator is mounted, what kind of configuration (intake, exhaust) and where all other case fans are located along with their orientations would be helpful.
 
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J

jaimison

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Jan 5, 2019
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510
@darkbreeze (I don't see a reply arrow at the bottom right of your post)


Thanks for the quick reply!

It was my understanding that the PWM controls voltage based on temperature sensors and I had read(after this problem) that fluctuating voltage could damage the pump. Thanks for the link.

I'll definitely try all your suggestions when I get home today.

For the info you asked...

Picture link for reference:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zyc5u6rsljqzpty/AorusZ390ProAIOHeaders.png?dl=0

The 3 radiator fans are plugged into a hub that came with the cooler(4pin fan connectors[x4] one of which sends speed/plugged info to the header and is occupied by one of the fans) which is plugged into the CPU_FAN header(blue circle) and the AIO pump is connected to the SYS_FAN5_PUMP (green circle). Not the CPU_OPT.

The radiator is top mounted exhaust with 3x120mm push fan configuration.
1x rear exhaust 140mm Thermaltake Riing fan
1x bottom intake 120mm Mars slightly angled toward the MOBO/Rear exhaust
Front intake is the Gpu radiator with 2xtherlamtake 140mm fans and 2x NZXT 140mm fans in push/pull configuration
There's also a 40mm fan above the chipset heat sink.

The plan was to OC the cpu/gpu/memory... Eventually.



 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Yeah, the mobile site sucks, for now. If you're using a mobile device on the mobile version of the site they make it a PITA to navigate normally on here.

Ok, try going into the bios and setting the header the pump is attached to to 100% at all times. Full speed. That is how the pump should be configured. It should not change much at all based on temp. Only the radiator fans should change. Also, make sure your front radiator actually IS in an intake configuration. If you have both radiators with the fans blowing out and only the single bottom fan bringing air in, and it's not hard to accidentally orient the fans the wrong way (So just visual check that the side of the front fans with the fan blades is facing towards the outside of the case).

Honestly, I would probably move the pump to the CPU_OPT header and THEN go into the bios and set it to full speed at all times BUT you have to make sure that the CPU OPT has it's own control profile because sometimes that header doesn't, and will only act as a second source for the main CPU FAN header profile. If there is no unique fan control profile for that header, then just leave it where you have it now but set it to full speed at all times. No variation. Pumps should not go faster and slower.

 
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Solution
J

jaimison

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Jan 5, 2019
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Haha, i can quote you through my email notification.

I'm pretty sure the fans are facing the correct direction. There are arrows that point the direction of airflow, I believe, but I'll double-check when I get home. And I'm positve I dont have the bios set to full speed on the pump, so I'll need to change that. I didn't put it on CPU_OPT simply because the asus board I had before was slaved to the CPU_FAN header. Closer look at this mobo manual doesn't indicate that it is slaved

PDF Link(page 17): https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-aorus-pro_wifi_1001_e.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjZjKrHqfPfAhXcITQIHUINCk0QFjABegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw21zgneH4W9sxxln9hpazMn

... So maybe I'll switch that too.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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That's what I was saying, if it's "slaved" to the CPU FAN, you don't want to use it IF your radiator fans are connected to the CPU FAN header, whether directly OR via hub/splitter, because then of course they'd be running at full speed too, all the time.

If it is not, then I would, because in most cases, and of course it probably doesn't matter anyhow since it will be set to 100%, but usually you don't want anything related to CPU cooling set on the case fan headers because they react to different thermal sensors HOWEVER one thing that MIGHT be a factor though is the fact that the chassis fan headers don't usually have any alarm features attached to them in the even the system does not detect an RPM signal like the CPU headers do. That might be a consideration. Actually, I might even connect the pump directly to the CPU FAN header, if they are not slaved, and connect the radiator fans or controller to the CPU OPT for that exact reason.

If there is no RPM signal from the pump, you pretty much want to know that immediately.
 
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J

jaimison

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Jan 5, 2019
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Looks like it was the pump speed. I changed that in bios and moved the radiator/tubes a bit when it turned on. I ran a full scan and did a 30min stress test that both maxed out the CPU. I kept it running for about 5hours and the hottest the cpu got was 53C.

I just gad a question to understand a bit better on what happened. Even if the pump was fluctuating on speeds, wouldn't it have eventually went to full speed way before hitting 90C? Or can the varying speeds cause the air bubble?

Thanks so much for your help! It's greatly appreciated.
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Allowing the system to achieve full heat saturation before the fans get to full speed, and then allowing them to drop when the temp drops a little will just not work well. You'll stay hot. Regardless, pumps are not really designed to run like fans. They are designed to run at full speed so the fans don't HAVE to, at least not as much.

All the fans do is help the radiator shed heat, the pump actually carries the heat away from the CPU, so in that view the pump is far more important. At low temps at least you could actually run without fans for a while so long as the pump was working normally. An air bubble could definitely have been a contributing factor though. At least it's good now.
 
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