PC won´t POST, crashes, problem galore.

rizrz3x

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Hi there.

I´ve been having problems with my PC recently and I was looking forward to get some answers or pieces of advice.

Im going to start with the specs of my PC then:

CPU: Intel i7 950 @ Stock
MoBO: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: Kingston HyperX T1 DDR3 1600 MHz 3 x 2 GB (HyperX Fan)
HDD: Samsung SATA2 1.5 TB
GPU Zotac GeForce GTX 580 @ Stock
PSU: Antec TruePower Quattro 1000 W
CPU Cooler: Antec Kuhler h2o 620 (Push/Pull configuration)
Case: Antec Nine Hundred 2
DVD: Sony DVD Writer
SO: Windows 7 64bit

Misc: Logysis Cold Cathodes Lights (2 lights with one inverter)

This isn't a new build, I've built it on March of this year.

A week ago, I tried to use my computer but when I started turned it on, my fans started spinning and their respective LEDs turned on, two seconds passed the computer shutted down and started again automatically doing the same, like an endless loop. The only way to stop it was to cut the power to the PSU from my wall socket with the PSU switch. I tried several times turning it on but the same kept happening. So I decided to disassemble the system and try to run the system with the devices needed only (I think thats what some people call breadbording) but the same kept happening. Then I cleared the CMOS with a Reset Switch on the I/O backplate and then the PC booted. I was able to access to Windows so as I think the problem was solved I turned it down and access BIOS for the basic configuration. I noticed that the speed of my RAM was 1066 MHz, so what I was doing till this "event" happened was selecting the XMP option in my BIOS setup, so instead of doing the same I selected my RAM speed manually, selected 1600 MHz first, and then I changed the DRAM Voltage to 1.65, as the specs of the manufacturer (Kingston) says. I saved the changes and it booted (maybe some of you know but other may not so i want to say it, my motherboard has a feature called MemOk, that makes uncompatible RAM compatible when you push a button, and everytime my PC starts a red LED lights and then turns off and the PC continues to boot) the thing was that it tooked 2-3 seconds longer to boot but it did it.

So I used my PC as slesyd but the day after the same happened I did the same, and the same thing happened. At the third try I was getting a little angry if you know what I mean, and I thought about maybe this was happening due to a thermal problem but everything was OK, the GPU temp was 35° celsius, the CPU 31° celsius and the motherboard 28° celsius, but I remembered that there´s no way to see the RAM temps, so I while the PC was on I touched one of the RAM modules but it was normal, I mean it wasn't as a penguin's ass and it sure wasn't like touching a turned on lightbulb. But the thing was that when I was getting my hand out of the case I don´t know if I moved the HDD SATA cable or the HDD power cable, and the PC suddenly turned off and then it started again by her own. This time the PC booted in the same time it used to do before this problem happened, I´ve used it for 3 days with no problem.

Then while I was in Windows the system crashed and started again by itself. What I usssually do in my PC is play Battlefield 3 or GTA IV, the temps looked normal (GPU, and CPU) but the thing was that the PC didn´t crash while I was playing, it did while I was surfing the web or doing a short essay in Microsoft Word 2007. I formatted the PC and installed BF3 two days ago, been playing since today. Today my PC crashed in the morning but as I was in a hurry a didn´t worry to much. Later I wanted to play some BF3 and I did it, so after I got bored I was chatting and organising some folders and my computer crashed. It started again but itself, but this time, while I was entering my password in order to access to my user it crashed again, I tried again and the same happen. I turned of the PSU with its switch, waited 20 seconds and turned it on, then I turned on the PC but it did the same as it did before, the endless starts and shuts loop with no boot.

I don't know what else to do, any help or suggestions will be gladly accepted.
 
It sounds like there are about 5 different things in there that we usually diagnose separately, but they are somehow all tied together.

As for breadboarding, generally it means taking everything out of the case and putting everything on a wooden table and trying to get the full build going in that environment.

If the motherboard will work outside of the case but not in it, then the motherboard is probably touching the case somewhere it isn't supposed to.

Anyway, I would suggest you do a MemTest86 RAM test and leave it going overnight. Ideally you want to get through a lot of passes while you are sleeping.
 

rizrz3x

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Thanks for the quick reply.

I wanted to try what you suggested me to do, downloaded Memtest86, burnt it on a CD. But now, when I try to start my PC in order to open the drive bay and choose the boot option, the PC shuts down and turns on in an endless loop. I tried the method I used before, clearing the CMOS with the Reset Button on the I/O backplate, but it does nothing. So the system doesn't show image, and I can't access to the BIOS Setup. In fact, it shuts down so fast that the hard drive doesn't get the chance to start spinning (no sound from it).

Any new suggestions or ideas?
 

majorgibly

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Sounds like it's shorting out on something.
 

rizrz3x

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Hello.

Tomorrow I'll be disassebling the system, and will try connecting it on a non conductive surface, again :fou: .
Any suggestions about what could be the problem of shortin out?

I never had this kind of problem with any of my systems before, I've spent too much money on this build, where I live (Uruguay) some of the parts I bought are ridiculously expensive and I'm worried about if any of them broke.

 

majorgibly

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If it's not shorting you will need to breadboard it. Remove things like all RAM apart from one. Remove Optical drives and HDD. Boot on the basics. In fact you could do that now. Unplug HDD And optical drives and take out all of ram apart from one.

Get back to me when done.
 

dormantreign

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Looking at your build, you've got quality parts. I'm kinda heading in the RAM direction as well, I don't see it being a short. Do the Memtest86 as suggested, If it passes a couple couple times it ain't the ram, I'd then consider it to be the Motherboard, check for swallon or busted compositors. After that, if your sure it isn't your motherboard, id look in the power supply direction next, you never know. Also, unplug everything that isn't required to boot. Good luck bud.
 

Petrofsky

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In case anybody cares, it's called breadboarding not because you do it on wood. (Wood can carry a static charge just like any other insulator, but it is indeed an insulator, so you're safe as far as that goes). Glass, tile or formica would do as well. Breadboarding got its name from the primitive method of designing circuits by driving small nails into a breadboard, or any board, and soldering components and wires to them. The pattern of nails and wires takes the place of the lands and traces on a printed circuit board, which is what you are trying to lay out.
 

majorgibly

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I still think breadboarding is the best option right now. He may as well. Personally I think it might be shorting. RAM or PSU would also be a second bet.
 

majorgibly

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Why tell us this lol.

:0) :pt1cable:
 
It is time to start looking at this problem systematically.

The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button (this is also a good way to test the power switch and the associated wiring), then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
 
I am conflicted.

I really really want to blame this on the Enhance PSU, but at the same time I don't.

Antec usually sources their PSUs from quality makers and I haven't heard much of Enhance, but just the fact that Antec chose them would lead me to believe they were good.

It seems quick for a good PSU to go down and the system you listed seems like it wouldn't be able to even get close to 1000w with 1x 580.

Only the core components can keep a computer from POSTing, in my experience.

If it wasn't the PSU then it would likely have to be somewhere between Motherboard, CPU, and RAM.

Are you sure you have the RAM pushed all the way in? It needs to be pushed in hard. I suppose I could see it potentially vibrating its way a little out of the slot but it seems less than 1% likely.

Are there any systems you have access to that you could perhaps borrow parts from or perhaps put your parts temporarily into?
 

Petrofsky

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OK, then, I posted that so that certain dizzy children won't think there's some magic in wood that makes it the right material to connect computer parts on. By the way, "lol" loosely translates from Nettish to Standard American English as "I am a small-minded teenager who thinks that ridiculing everything makes me look superior." Use it sparingly.
 

majorgibly

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Degrading women? Possibly the funniest thing I have heard today. Why can't you all mature up a little, Acting like a bunch of secondary school kids. I have said nothing wrong to rock your boat. Therefore don't get involved.
 
Degrading women isn't a "mature" thing to do, nor is saying "lol" all the time.

If someone were trying to date my daughter that went around degrading women and saying lol all the time that wouldn't happen for very long. Trust.

I think my wife would be pretty offended by such things too.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.
 

majorgibly

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Bringing your daughter in and your wife? Just to prove a point over the internet. Your whole post was based around personal opinions not fact, Just because it's immature to you does mean you need to have a good cry about it. Just leave it at that. I don't come on these forums to have arguments with mentally unstable people.
 
You could also read the TOS

User agrees not to post material that is knowingly false and/or defamatory, misleading, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, that otherwise violates any law, or that encourages conduct constituting a criminal offense.

and quit offending everyone you can as much as you can.

Also, apparently you do come on the internet only to argue with and offend people or you would have just said you were sorry and stopped doing it a long time ago.
 

majorgibly

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"You are the one that needs to fix yourself." Looks like you broke the agreement also. Can we now continue with helping people out? Thats what this forum is all about right?
 
Ok now you are just being ridiculous.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.

There is nothing inherently false about this. You really do need to straighten up your act.

There is nothing defamatory about this. The comment is aimed at your behavior rather than your personal character.

There is nothing misleading or inaccurate about that statement. You do indeed need to do it and I am not misleading you about your need to do it.

There is also nothing abusive, vulgar, or hateful about it. I am not using derogatory words like you are, for instance. I am using plain and clear language that isn't offensive to any race, gender, religion, or any other group.

I am not harassing you by telling you to follow the TOS you already agreed to follow as far as I can tell. Indeed I am not even harassing you by posting multiple times for each 1 thing you post that is offensive. I am telling you to follow the TOS only once for every offensive post you make.

I am not using obscene, profane, or sexually oriented language like you are.

I am not threatening you or invading your privacy in any way nor am I violating any laws (indeed I am --> enforcing <-- those laws) nor am I encouraging you to do anything illegal. Indeed I am encouraging you to quit doing illegal things (according to the TOS).

Just give up and start acting right please.

The absolute worst thing I can be accused of is escalating the unfriendliness of my responses in response to your continued breaking the TOS and your turning your derogatory speech from women in general to me in particular.

I see nothing in the TOS that says I have to respond in the most friendly possible manner to someone that repeatedly breaks the TOS and attacks me personally. Maybe I missed that line somewhere. I thought I was pretty thorough above.

You, on the other hand, have broken just about every TOS rule that exists in this thread. Perhaps you would like me to explain in detail why?

Or perhaps you would like me to explain it to a moderator instead?



Indeed this forum is about helping people out. That is why I get 10 best answers a day and nobody following me around telling me how disrespectful I am. You are the one detracting from that, not me.

- Edit - Typo, see I fix my mistakes when I mess up (unlike some people).
 

majorgibly

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Cool story bro needs more dragons.
 

PartialGenious

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I have to say I am with Raiddinn on the fact that I want to point towards the PSU. Although, from my experience it would crash more often while gaming rather than doing word processing or whatever. The main reason I want to point toward that though is the continuous rebooting upon boot up. Anyways speculations apart when it "crashes" it just reboots right? No BSOD (blue screen of death) just reboots right? If this is the case it would have to point towards CPU, RAM, PSU or mobo to me. Also as mentioned above are you even getting a POST beep when the computer boots up?