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PC won´t POST, crashes, problem galore.

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  • Homebuilt
  • Systems
Last response: in Systems
December 27, 2011 11:01:45 PM

Hi there.

I´ve been having problems with my PC recently and I was looking forward to get some answers or pieces of advice.

Im going to start with the specs of my PC then:

CPU: Intel i7 950 @ Stock
MoBO: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: Kingston HyperX T1 DDR3 1600 MHz 3 x 2 GB (HyperX Fan)
HDD: Samsung SATA2 1.5 TB
GPU Zotac GeForce GTX 580 @ Stock
PSU: Antec TruePower Quattro 1000 W
CPU Cooler: Antec Kuhler h2o 620 (Push/Pull configuration)
Case: Antec Nine Hundred 2
DVD: Sony DVD Writer
SO: Windows 7 64bit

Misc: Logysis Cold Cathodes Lights (2 lights with one inverter)

This isn't a new build, I've built it on March of this year.

A week ago, I tried to use my computer but when I started turned it on, my fans started spinning and their respective LEDs turned on, two seconds passed the computer shutted down and started again automatically doing the same, like an endless loop. The only way to stop it was to cut the power to the PSU from my wall socket with the PSU switch. I tried several times turning it on but the same kept happening. So I decided to disassemble the system and try to run the system with the devices needed only (I think thats what some people call breadbording) but the same kept happening. Then I cleared the CMOS with a Reset Switch on the I/O backplate and then the PC booted. I was able to access to Windows so as I think the problem was solved I turned it down and access BIOS for the basic configuration. I noticed that the speed of my RAM was 1066 MHz, so what I was doing till this "event" happened was selecting the XMP option in my BIOS setup, so instead of doing the same I selected my RAM speed manually, selected 1600 MHz first, and then I changed the DRAM Voltage to 1.65, as the specs of the manufacturer (Kingston) says. I saved the changes and it booted (maybe some of you know but other may not so i want to say it, my motherboard has a feature called MemOk, that makes uncompatible RAM compatible when you push a button, and everytime my PC starts a red LED lights and then turns off and the PC continues to boot) the thing was that it tooked 2-3 seconds longer to boot but it did it.

So I used my PC as slesyd but the day after the same happened I did the same, and the same thing happened. At the third try I was getting a little angry if you know what I mean, and I thought about maybe this was happening due to a thermal problem but everything was OK, the GPU temp was 35° celsius, the CPU 31° celsius and the motherboard 28° celsius, but I remembered that there´s no way to see the RAM temps, so I while the PC was on I touched one of the RAM modules but it was normal, I mean it wasn't as a penguin's ass and it sure wasn't like touching a turned on lightbulb. But the thing was that when I was getting my hand out of the case I don´t know if I moved the HDD SATA cable or the HDD power cable, and the PC suddenly turned off and then it started again by her own. This time the PC booted in the same time it used to do before this problem happened, I´ve used it for 3 days with no problem.

Then while I was in Windows the system crashed and started again by itself. What I usssually do in my PC is play Battlefield 3 or GTA IV, the temps looked normal (GPU, and CPU) but the thing was that the PC didn´t crash while I was playing, it did while I was surfing the web or doing a short essay in Microsoft Word 2007. I formatted the PC and installed BF3 two days ago, been playing since today. Today my PC crashed in the morning but as I was in a hurry a didn´t worry to much. Later I wanted to play some BF3 and I did it, so after I got bored I was chatting and organising some folders and my computer crashed. It started again but itself, but this time, while I was entering my password in order to access to my user it crashed again, I tried again and the same happen. I turned of the PSU with its switch, waited 20 seconds and turned it on, then I turned on the PC but it did the same as it did before, the endless starts and shuts loop with no boot.

I don't know what else to do, any help or suggestions will be gladly accepted.

More about : wont post crashes problem galore

a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 27, 2011 11:16:42 PM

It sounds like there are about 5 different things in there that we usually diagnose separately, but they are somehow all tied together.

As for breadboarding, generally it means taking everything out of the case and putting everything on a wooden table and trying to get the full build going in that environment.

If the motherboard will work outside of the case but not in it, then the motherboard is probably touching the case somewhere it isn't supposed to.

Anyway, I would suggest you do a MemTest86 RAM test and leave it going overnight. Ideally you want to get through a lot of passes while you are sleeping.
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December 27, 2011 11:59:25 PM

Raiddinn said:
It sounds like there are about 5 different things in there that we usually diagnose separately, but they are somehow all tied together.

As for breadboarding, generally it means taking everything out of the case and putting everything on a wooden table and trying to get the full build going in that environment.

If the motherboard will work outside of the case but not in it, then the motherboard is probably touching the case somewhere it isn't supposed to.

Anyway, I would suggest you do a MemTest86 RAM test and leave it going overnight. Ideally you want to get through a lot of passes while you are sleeping.



Thanks for the quick reply.

I wanted to try what you suggested me to do, downloaded Memtest86, burnt it on a CD. But now, when I try to start my PC in order to open the drive bay and choose the boot option, the PC shuts down and turns on in an endless loop. I tried the method I used before, clearing the CMOS with the Reset Button on the I/O backplate, but it does nothing. So the system doesn't show image, and I can't access to the BIOS Setup. In fact, it shuts down so fast that the hard drive doesn't get the chance to start spinning (no sound from it).

Any new suggestions or ideas?
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Related resources
December 28, 2011 12:27:56 AM

rizrz3x said:
Thanks for the quick reply.

I wanted to try what you suggested me to do, downloaded Memtest86, burnt it on a CD. But now, when I try to start my PC in order to open the drive bay and choose the boot option, the PC shuts down and turns on in an endless loop. I tried the method I used before, clearing the CMOS with the Reset Button on the I/O backplate, but it does nothing. So the system doesn't show image, and I can't access to the BIOS Setup. In fact, it shuts down so fast that the hard drive doesn't get the chance to start spinning (no sound from it).

Any new suggestions or ideas?


Sounds like it's shorting out on something.
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December 28, 2011 12:41:38 AM

majorgibly said:
Sounds like it's shorting out on something.


Hello.

Tomorrow I'll be disassebling the system, and will try connecting it on a non conductive surface, again :fou:  .
Any suggestions about what could be the problem of shortin out?

I never had this kind of problem with any of my systems before, I've spent too much money on this build, where I live (Uruguay) some of the parts I bought are ridiculously expensive and I'm worried about if any of them broke.

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December 28, 2011 12:46:38 AM

rizrz3x said:
Hello.

Tomorrow I'll be disassebling the system, and will try connecting it on a non conductive surface, again :fou:  .
Any suggestions about what could be the problem of shortin out?

I never had this kind of problem with any of my systems before, I've spent too much money on this build, where I live (Uruguay) some of the parts I bought are ridiculously expensive and I'm worried about if any of them broke.


If it's not shorting you will need to breadboard it. Remove things like all RAM apart from one. Remove Optical drives and HDD. Boot on the basics. In fact you could do that now. Unplug HDD And optical drives and take out all of ram apart from one.

Get back to me when done.
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December 28, 2011 1:01:45 AM

Looking at your build, you've got quality parts. I'm kinda heading in the RAM direction as well, I don't see it being a short. Do the Memtest86 as suggested, If it passes a couple couple times it ain't the ram, I'd then consider it to be the Motherboard, check for swallon or busted compositors. After that, if your sure it isn't your motherboard, id look in the power supply direction next, you never know. Also, unplug everything that isn't required to boot. Good luck bud.
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a b B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 1:07:23 AM

In case anybody cares, it's called breadboarding not because you do it on wood. (Wood can carry a static charge just like any other insulator, but it is indeed an insulator, so you're safe as far as that goes). Glass, tile or formica would do as well. Breadboarding got its name from the primitive method of designing circuits by driving small nails into a breadboard, or any board, and soldering components and wires to them. The pattern of nails and wires takes the place of the lands and traces on a printed circuit board, which is what you are trying to lay out.
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December 28, 2011 1:07:45 AM

dormantreign said:
Looking at your build, you've got quality parts. I'm kinda heading in the RAM direction as well, I don't see it being a short. Do the Memtest86 as suggested, If it passes a couple couple times it ain't the ram, I'd then consider it to be the Motherboard, check for swallon or busted compositors. After that, if your sure it isn't your motherboard, id look in the power supply direction next, you never know. Also, unplug everything that isn't required to boot. Good luck bud.


I still think breadboarding is the best option right now. He may as well. Personally I think it might be shorting. RAM or PSU would also be a second bet.
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December 28, 2011 1:08:33 AM

Petrofsky said:
In case anybody cares, it's called breadboarding not because you do it on wood. (Wood can carry a static charge just like any other insulator, but it is indeed an insulator, so you're safe as far as that goes). Glass, tile or formica would do as well. Breadboarding got its name from the primitive method of designing circuits by driving small nails into a breadboard, or any board, and soldering components and wires to them. The pattern of nails and wires takes the place of the lands and traces on a printed circuit board, which is what you are trying to lay out.


Why tell us this lol.

:0) :pt1cable: 
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a b B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 1:42:35 AM

majorgibly said:
Why tell us this lol.

:0) :pt1cable: 


Why not? You elled o l, isn't that reason enough?
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December 28, 2011 1:51:52 AM

Petrofsky said:
Why not? You elled o l, isn't that reason enough?


Nope lol :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce: 
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a c 121 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 2:11:43 AM

It is time to start looking at this problem systematically.

The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. The green wire should also have 5 volts on it. It should go to 0 volts when you press the case power button (this is also a good way to test the power switch and the associated wiring), then back to 5 volts when you release the case power switch. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 5:54:26 AM

I am conflicted.

I really really want to blame this on the Enhance PSU, but at the same time I don't.

Antec usually sources their PSUs from quality makers and I haven't heard much of Enhance, but just the fact that Antec chose them would lead me to believe they were good.

It seems quick for a good PSU to go down and the system you listed seems like it wouldn't be able to even get close to 1000w with 1x 580.

Only the core components can keep a computer from POSTing, in my experience.

If it wasn't the PSU then it would likely have to be somewhere between Motherboard, CPU, and RAM.

Are you sure you have the RAM pushed all the way in? It needs to be pushed in hard. I suppose I could see it potentially vibrating its way a little out of the slot but it seems less than 1% likely.

Are there any systems you have access to that you could perhaps borrow parts from or perhaps put your parts temporarily into?
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a b B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 9:37:32 AM

majorgibly said:
Nope lol :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce:  :bounce: 


OK, then, I posted that so that certain dizzy children won't think there's some magic in wood that makes it the right material to connect computer parts on. By the way, "lol" loosely translates from Nettish to Standard American English as "I am a small-minded teenager who thinks that ridiculing everything makes me look superior." Use it sparingly.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 10:56:04 AM

Really, now you have to start degrading women while you are at it?

Just stop please.
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December 28, 2011 10:59:11 AM

Raiddinn said:
Really, now you have to start degrading women while you are at it?

Just stop please.


Degrading women? Possibly the funniest thing I have heard today. Why can't you all mature up a little, Acting like a bunch of secondary school kids. I have said nothing wrong to rock your boat. Therefore don't get involved.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 11:13:29 AM

Degrading women isn't a "mature" thing to do, nor is saying "lol" all the time.

If someone were trying to date my daughter that went around degrading women and saying lol all the time that wouldn't happen for very long. Trust.

I think my wife would be pretty offended by such things too.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.
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December 28, 2011 11:24:24 AM

Raiddinn said:
Degrading women isn't a "mature" thing to do, nor is saying "lol" all the time.

If someone were trying to date my daughter that went around degrading women and saying lol all the time that wouldn't happen for very long. Trust.

I think my wife would be pretty offended by such things too.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.


Bringing your daughter in and your wife? Just to prove a point over the internet. Your whole post was based around personal opinions not fact, Just because it's immature to you does mean you need to have a good cry about it. Just leave it at that. I don't come on these forums to have arguments with mentally unstable people.
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December 28, 2011 11:25:18 AM

Back to the main point of the thread. Can you give us an update.

Cheers.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 11:36:48 AM

You could also read the TOS

User agrees not to post material that is knowingly false and/or defamatory, misleading, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, that otherwise violates any law, or that encourages conduct constituting a criminal offense.

and quit offending everyone you can as much as you can.

Also, apparently you do come on the internet only to argue with and offend people or you would have just said you were sorry and stopped doing it a long time ago.
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December 28, 2011 11:46:02 AM

Raiddinn said:
You could also read the TOS

User agrees not to post material that is knowingly false and/or defamatory, misleading, inaccurate, abusive, vulgar, hateful, harassing, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, threatening, invasive of a person's privacy, that otherwise violates any law, or that encourages conduct constituting a criminal offense.

and quit offending everyone you can as much as you can.

Also, apparently you do come on the internet only to argue with and offend people or you would have just said you were sorry and stopped doing it a long time ago.


"You are the one that needs to fix yourself." Looks like you broke the agreement also. Can we now continue with helping people out? Thats what this forum is all about right?
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 12:11:48 PM

Ok now you are just being ridiculous.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.

There is nothing inherently false about this. You really do need to straighten up your act.

There is nothing defamatory about this. The comment is aimed at your behavior rather than your personal character.

There is nothing misleading or inaccurate about that statement. You do indeed need to do it and I am not misleading you about your need to do it.

There is also nothing abusive, vulgar, or hateful about it. I am not using derogatory words like you are, for instance. I am using plain and clear language that isn't offensive to any race, gender, religion, or any other group.

I am not harassing you by telling you to follow the TOS you already agreed to follow as far as I can tell. Indeed I am not even harassing you by posting multiple times for each 1 thing you post that is offensive. I am telling you to follow the TOS only once for every offensive post you make.

I am not using obscene, profane, or sexually oriented language like you are.

I am not threatening you or invading your privacy in any way nor am I violating any laws (indeed I am --> enforcing <-- those laws) nor am I encouraging you to do anything illegal. Indeed I am encouraging you to quit doing illegal things (according to the TOS).

Just give up and start acting right please.

The absolute worst thing I can be accused of is escalating the unfriendliness of my responses in response to your continued breaking the TOS and your turning your derogatory speech from women in general to me in particular.

I see nothing in the TOS that says I have to respond in the most friendly possible manner to someone that repeatedly breaks the TOS and attacks me personally. Maybe I missed that line somewhere. I thought I was pretty thorough above.

You, on the other hand, have broken just about every TOS rule that exists in this thread. Perhaps you would like me to explain in detail why?

Or perhaps you would like me to explain it to a moderator instead?



Indeed this forum is about helping people out. That is why I get 10 best answers a day and nobody following me around telling me how disrespectful I am. You are the one detracting from that, not me.

- Edit - Typo, see I fix my mistakes when I mess up (unlike some people).
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December 28, 2011 12:20:31 PM

Raiddinn said:
Ok now you are just being ridiculous.

You are the one that needs to fix yourself.

There is nothing inherently false about this. You really do need to straighten up your act.

There is nothing defamatory about this. The comment is aimed at your behavior rather than your personal character.

There is nothing misleading or inaccurate about that statement. You do indeed need to do it and I am not misleading you about your need to do it.

There is also nothing abusive, vulgar, or hateful about it. I am not using derogatory words like you are, for instance. I am using plain and clear language that isn't offensive to any race, gender, religion, or any other group.

I am not harassing you by telling you to follow the TOS you already agreed to follow as far as I can tell. Indeed I am not even harassing you by posting multiple times for each 1 thing you post that is offensive. I am telling you to follow the TOS only once for every offensive post you make.

I am not using obscene, profane, or sexually oriented language like you are.

I am not threatening you or invading your privacy in any way nor am I violating any laws (indeed I am --> enforcing <-- those laws) nor am I encouraging you to do anything illegal. Indeed I am encouraging you to quit doing illegal things (according to the TOS).

Just give up and start acting right please.

The absolute worst thing I can be accused of is escalating the unfriendliness of my responses in response to your continued breaking the TOS and your turning your derogatory speech from women in general to me in particular.

I see nothing in the TOS that says I have to respond in the most friendly possible manner to someone that repeatedly breaks the TOS and attacks me personally. Maybe I missed that line somewhere. I thought I was pretty thorough above.

You, on the other hand, have broken just about every TOS rule that exists in this thread. Perhaps you would like me to explain in detail why?

Or perhaps you would like me to explain it to a moderator instead?



Indeed this forum is about helping people out. That is why I get 10 best answers a day and nobody following me around telling me how disrespectful I am. You are the one detracting from that, not me.

- Edit - Typo, see I fix my mistakes when I mess up (unlike some people).


Cool story bro needs more dragons.
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December 28, 2011 12:30:39 PM

I have to say I am with Raiddinn on the fact that I want to point towards the PSU. Although, from my experience it would crash more often while gaming rather than doing word processing or whatever. The main reason I want to point toward that though is the continuous rebooting upon boot up. Anyways speculations apart when it "crashes" it just reboots right? No BSOD (blue screen of death) just reboots right? If this is the case it would have to point towards CPU, RAM, PSU or mobo to me. Also as mentioned above are you even getting a POST beep when the computer boots up?
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December 28, 2011 12:33:32 PM

PartialGenious said:
I have to say I am with Raiddinn on the fact that I want to point towards the PSU. Although, from my experience it would crash more often while gaming rather than doing word processing or whatever. The main reason I want to point toward that though is the continuous rebooting upon boot up. Anyways speculations apart when it "crashes" it just reboots right? No BSOD (blue screen of death) just reboots right? If this is the case it would have to point towards CPU, RAM, PSU or mobo to me. Also as mentioned above are you even getting a POST beep when the computer boots up?


This is the kind of place I would beg a computer to give me a BSOD. :p 
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 12:38:26 PM

Whether or not you get a BSOD or a restart is something you can set yourself.

In Windows anyway.

If you right click on My Computer, properties, system protection, advanced, startup and recovery, settings, there is an option in there for "automatically restart". If it is checked then it will do that instead of giving most BSODs.

- Edit -

majorgibly said:
Cool story bro needs more dragons.



You got it.
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December 28, 2011 12:44:00 PM

Yes, but even if it does reboot automatically it should still flash a BSOD up for a few seconds I believe? At least every computer I have ever seen would. Just trying to make sure we are not missing pieces of the puzzle.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 12:49:31 PM

There is no guarantee that a BSOD will be seen if this box is checked.

A few may be, but most probably won't be. As far as I understand it, this box is intended to prevent just that sort of eventuality.
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a c 223 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 12:50:07 PM

Stay on topic and enough with the comments that don't belong here!
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December 28, 2011 12:55:10 PM

Yes, I agree there is no guarantee but the majority of the time it still flashes the blue screen momentarily. This option just gives you enough time to write the error message down. Anyways not a bad idea to disable this feature @ the OP.
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December 28, 2011 2:03:02 PM

PartialGenious said:
Yes, I agree there is no guarantee but the majority of the time it still flashes the blue screen momentarily. This option just gives you enough time to write the error message down. Anyways not a bad idea to disable this feature @ the OP.


Normally when booted back into windows it will give you the Stop code.
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December 28, 2011 6:02:17 PM

Hello.

Well I'm updating the current situation.
I've dissassembled the system, now I got it over an old motherboard anti estatic bag which is over the motherboard box, so it has a certain room for my GPU card.
I checked my PSU, all the voltages seemed fined, I think maybe we can cross it out of the problem's causes list, or maybe not?Also, there were no blown or leaking caps on the motherboard.

So I connected the RAM DIMMs, the VGA card (sorry, my motherboard doesn't have an integrated graphics processor)
Today I got a speaker, those for the POST beep codes, and it did nothing as everytime it rebooted was very fast.
I cleared the CMOS, again, with the reset button, and the problem (it rebooted by itself, fans spin and their respective LEDs turn on, and suddenly it turns off and does it again) still were. I cleared the CMOS 3 more times and then it booted up. By the time it reached the screen when you have to enter your password to enter to your user it Windows, I wrote mine and when I hitted the Enter key on the keyboard the screen froze for about 3-5 seconds and it rebooted itself and when it got to the same screen, I entered my password again and the same kept happening. I removed 2 of my DIMMS, left the first one, and the same happen. I changed the DIMM installed with another one, the same happened. Changed it with the other one left, and then it loaded my desktop, and I was able to interact with it. A window saying that the PC recovered from a "bad shutdown" (can't remeber welll what it said), I selected the option to show problem details, and said Error: BlueScreen. The thing is that I know what BSOD is, but the PC never showed one. I didn't see a Stop code, and if I did I don't rember, sorry.

Now I added the other 2 DIMMS and it booted perfectly, in fact I played 20 minutes of Battlefield 3, and due to the previous crashes I stopped playing and doing other stuff in the PC, like installing L.A. Noire and organising some folders, it's been 6 minutes since I stopped playing and so far so good.

Another info, my BIOS by default shows that my memories are running at 1066 MHz, this time I haven't changed it.

Any new ideas?

PS: Thanks for the replies.

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a b B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 6:16:29 PM

The anti-static bag is conductive---that's how it works. Get it out of there. You want your mobo on a non-conductive surface. The cardboard box alone is good.
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December 28, 2011 6:26:54 PM

Petrofsky said:
The anti-static bag is conductive---that's how it works. Get it out of there. You want your mobo on a non-conductive surface. The cardboard box alone is good.


Thanks for the info. didn't know that. I got it out and the PC works normal.

Now I'm trying Raiddinn's suggestion to use Memtest86 now that i can boot the PC.
The thing is, I'm running Memtest86 v4.0a (on the website said it was the stable version) and now one pass completed with no errors. I don't know if I have to set it up before using the Memtest, maybe some options or configurations. Here is some information about the pass:

Time elapsed: 13:30 m.
Passes completed: 1
Errors: No.

I'm still running it for another pass, what should I do now? And what about the RAM clocks speed, still in 1066 MHz.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 6:35:17 PM

The voltages inside the PSU are regulated by something called a PWM chip. This thing can detect changes in the voltage in a few micro seconds and adjust the voltage to fix the situation just as quickly. A multimeter or something like that can't measure these changes because they do not run fast enough.

The only hope you have would be to use a data collector to get this information.

Anyway, its best not to hope for too much when trying to prove something with a voltage checker in today's PCs. Only the worst of the worst PSUs will fail these tests, even if the PSUs are actually bad.

As far as your experiences, it is possible that you fixed it.

When I asked if the RAM was pushed all the way in it was because it kinda halfway sounded like RAM problems I have seen in the past. It is possible that taking them out and reseating them did fix this. Not sure if it was all the way in before but if it is working now then maybe it is all the way in now.

RAM can be pretty screwy, regardless.

It is kinda weird that your board is auto detecting them as 1066 RAM instead of 1600 RAM. Perhaps the computer is having problems maxing out the RAM and it is scaling it back to compensate?

- Edit - You want to run MemTest when you are sleeping. That way it can get A LOT of passes in.
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December 28, 2011 7:01:44 PM

Raiddinn said:
The voltages inside the PSU are regulated by something called a PWM chip. This thing can detect changes in the voltage in a few micro seconds and adjust the voltage to fix the situation just as quickly. A multimeter or something like that can't measure these changes because they do not run fast enough.

The only hope you have would be to use a data collector to get this information.

Anyway, its best not to hope for too much when trying to prove something with a voltage checker in today's PCs. Only the worst of the worst PSUs will fail these tests, even if the PSUs are actually bad.

As far as your experiences, it is possible that you fixed it.

When I asked if the RAM was pushed all the way in it was because it kinda halfway sounded like RAM problems I have seen in the past. It is possible that taking them out and reseating them did fix this. Not sure if it was all the way in before but if it is working now then maybe it is all the way in now.

RAM can be pretty screwy, regardless.

It is kinda weird that your board is auto detecting them as 1066 RAM instead of 1600 RAM. Perhaps the computer is having problems maxing out the RAM and it is scaling it back to compensate?

- Edit - You want to run MemTest when you are sleeping. That way it can get A LOT of passes in.


I understand what you say about the RAMs not being seated correctly but remember I used to play games and everything went smooth, but when I did any other task it crashed. So are you sure it could be the RAMs not being seated correctly?

I just don't want to assemble the system yet, because the last time I've disassembled it it turned to work, so I assebled it and used it for a couple of days and then... well, let's say that's why we're talking now :ange: 

Respecting to Memtest86, so no previous configurations need to be done before running the passes? (This is the first time I use this program)

And about the RAMs speed I've read that some DIMMs need to be configured in the BIOS, so they run at the specified speed, can anyone confirm this, and how should I do it?

Another pass completed no errors so far, Is it ok that this second run took like 37 m?

Again Raidinn, thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 28, 2011 7:17:17 PM

You don't need to do anything with memtest, it just goes completely on its own. There is no configuration or anything that you need to do.

If the RAM sticks are equal or higher to the highest motherboard standard speed then the RAM should auto detect itself as that speed.

If your board will take 1333 RAM natively and you have 1600 RAM, then it should auto detect it as if it were 1333 RAM. There may or may not be a configuration utility in the BIOS that allows you to manually force it to work with the RAM as if it were 1600 RAM.

I would think that the Memtest passes should take about the same time, but I am not familiar with the internal workings of this program at a high level of detail.
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December 28, 2011 9:53:33 PM

Raiddinn said:
You don't need to do anything with memtest, it just goes completely on its own. There is no configuration or anything that you need to do.

If the RAM sticks are equal or higher to the highest motherboard standard speed then the RAM should auto detect itself as that speed.

If your board will take 1333 RAM natively and you have 1600 RAM, then it should auto detect it as if it were 1333 RAM. There may or may not be a configuration utility in the BIOS that allows you to manually force it to work with the RAM as if it were 1600 RAM.

I would think that the Memtest passes should take about the same time, but I am not familiar with the internal workings of this program at a high level of detail.


Here's an update.

Time Elapsed 3 h 38m Running the three DIMMs @1066MHz

Still on the sixth pass, 3 errors :( 

Errors:

Test------Pass------------Failing Adress---------------Good---------Bad------------Err-Bits-------Count------CPU
8----------5---------00000100014 - 1.0MB----------fbffffff--------fbf8ffff-------00070000--------1-----------0
11---------5---------000000709e4 - 0.0MB----------ffffffff---------fff8ffff--------00070000--------2-----------0
8----------6---------00000100014 - 1.0MB----------ffffdfff--------fff8dfff-------00070000--------3-----------0


I'm really worried, what should I do?
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December 28, 2011 10:34:33 PM

rizrz3x said:
Here's an update.

Time Elapsed 3 h 38m Running the three DIMMs @1066MHz

Still on the sixth pass, 3 errors :( 

Errors:

Test------Pass------------Failing Adress---------------Good---------Bad------------Err-Bits-------Count------CPU
8----------5---------00000100014 - 1.0MB----------fbffffff--------fbf8ffff-------00070000--------1-----------0
11---------5---------000000709e4 - 0.0MB----------ffffffff---------fff8ffff--------00070000--------2-----------0
8----------6---------00000100014 - 1.0MB----------ffffdfff--------fff8dfff-------00070000--------3-----------0


I'm really worried, what should I do?


I have not used Memtest on newer computer. Only older PCs but I think a few errors is acceptable. Once computer which was a 2002 rig running XP had 6,000 fails. Not sure if it's considered okay to have some fails nowadays, somebody will fill you in though I'm sure.
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December 28, 2011 10:42:26 PM

majorgibly said:
I have not used Memtest on newer computer. Only older PCs but I think a few errors is acceptable. Once computer which was a 2002 rig running XP had 6,000 fails. Not sure if it's considered okay to have some fails nowadays, somebody will fill you in though I'm sure.



Thanks mate. I will wait then.

I don't care about solving the problem right now, I just want to know what could be malfunctioning, that's what worries me the most.

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December 28, 2011 10:47:48 PM

rizrz3x said:
Thanks mate. I will wait then.

I don't care about solving the problem right now, I just want to know what could be malfunctioning, that's what worries me the most.


If I can remember correctly it was not working in the case, but after breadboarding it now works? If this is the case then I'm going to stick with my original hypothesis of maybe and stand off is in the wrong place causing the motherboard to short out on a motherboard standoff.

The RAM came back with some errors. And again still not sure if that's acceptable in this day and age. I know when I used to repair PC's when I first going into computing a few errors were considered normal.

Sorry if this was already answered previously, but is the PC 100% stable under a windows environment while outside of the case?
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December 28, 2011 10:56:57 PM

majorgibly said:
If I can remember correctly it was not working in the case, but after breadboarding it now works? If this is the case then I'm going to stick with my original hypothesis of maybe and stand off is in the wrong place causing the motherboard to short out on a motherboard standoff.

The RAM came back with some errors. And again still not sure if that's acceptable in this day and age. I know when I used to repair PC's when I first going into computing a few errors were considered normal.

Sorry if this was already answered previously, but is the PC 100% stable under a windows environment while outside of the case?



Well, today I've played 20 minutes of BF3 singleplayer, then I installed L.A. Noire and organised some folders and then played some L.A. Noire.
But before this last incident happened (in the PC case) the Windows enviroment used to be stable for random times, for example one day I played like 4 hours in a row of BF3 Online (I know I've addicted to gaming :pt1cable:  ) but everytime it crashed I wasn't gaming, I was just browsing through my folders or doing silly things (with silly I refer to software or applications that don't put too much load on the system) like Word 2007 or just using the Firefox.

So I wouldn't assure you it is 100 % stable right now.
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December 28, 2011 11:03:12 PM

rizrz3x said:
Well, today I've played 20 minutes of BF3 singleplayer, then I installed L.A. Noire and organised some folders and then played some L.A. Noire.
But before this last incident happened (in the PC case) the Windows enviroment used to be stable for random times, for example one day I played like 4 hours in a row of BF3 Online (I know I've addicted to gaming :pt1cable:  ) but everytime it crashed I wasn't gaming, I was just browsing through my folders or doing silly things (with silly I refer to software or applications that don't put too much load on the system) like Word 2007 or just using the Firefox.

So I wouldn't assure you it is 100 % stable right now.


Right have a look inside the case, count how many motherboard stand offs there are.

Then report back ;0)
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December 28, 2011 11:10:53 PM

majorgibly said:
Right have a look inside the case, count how many motherboard stand offs there are.

Then report back ;0)



9 Standoffs, I've got three that I are driving me crazy because when I insert the motherboard I want to put the screws but three of the want lock in if you know what I mean, they just keep spinning and spinning.

Any other requests or questions?
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December 28, 2011 11:37:46 PM

rizrz3x said:
9 Standoffs, I've got three that I are driving me crazy because when I insert the motherboard I want to put the screws but three of the want lock in if you know what I mean, they just keep spinning and spinning.

Any other requests or questions?


Doubt thats the problem, Try installing it back into the case again lol. And go from there.

Do that then report back
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December 29, 2011 1:16:25 AM

12 passes, no new errors, only the ones reported before.

Now I don´t have a f**** clue about what's wrong with my system.

I'm going to go and sleep, thanks for the help everybody, despite the fact that I still have the problem I'm really glad with you guys trying to help me.

Good night.
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December 29, 2011 1:18:13 AM

rizrz3x said:
12 passes, no new errors, only the ones reported before.

Now I don´t have a f**** clue about what's wrong with my system.

I'm going to go and sleep, thanks for the help everybody, despite the fact that I still have the problem I'm really glad with you guys trying to help me.

Good night.


If it's in the case and the errors are not causing any problems then if I were you I would leave it. Also make sure you are up to date with the bios. And you are using the most stable version on memtest.
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a c 78 B Homebuilt system
December 29, 2011 7:48:49 AM

Maybe other people are willing to tolerate memory errors. I wouldn't with my RAM.

I get Micron (Crucial) RAM because they have maybe the toughest testing of any RAM maker and they won't put their name on a RAM stick unless it is well within specifications.

The ones that don't pass well within specs get thrown in a fail bin and another company buys them, puts their own sticker on it, and sells it as generic RAM.

Anyway, I can tell you from experience that my wife refuses to spend more money on her computer than absolutely necessary for what she wants to do and so far I haven't been able to convince her of anything different.

She recently got a 2nd stick of generic RAM of the exact same part number she had before and she had the exact same problems that you had. The computer would turn on, then enter a restart loop over and over.

Part of her problems stemmed from the RAM not being pushed in far enough. I pushed them in hard and then took the battery out for 30 min and put it back in and it started working.

Even with all this generic RAM giving her computer all these fits, once it was in there good it didn't have any serious problems.

Her computer DID underclock the RAM for what reason I don't know but it is stable and gives no errors and she doesn't want to mess with it if that is the case.

I ran Memtest a few nights in a row on her computer and it made it some 50 passes through with 0 errors, though.

Apparently, the RAM can cause hours and hours of headaches and require the BIOS to be reset like 7 times, but still it gives no errors when auto-underclocked.

If yours is auto-underclocked and still giving errors, you might want to think about replacing it.

If you do, try one of these part numbers instead
BL3KIT12864BA160A
BL3KIT25664BA160A

BLT3KIT2G3D1608DT1TX0
BLS3KIT2G3D1609DS1S00

CT3KIT12864BA160B
CT3KIT25664BD160B
CT3KIT25664BA160B
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January 5, 2012 8:33:19 PM

Hi guys.

Update.

I cleaned the DIMMs golden contacts and memtested them (at the stock speed of the MoBo 1066 MHz) and the results were:

10:50 Hs 17 Passes No errors :D 

But the problem keep presenting.

I tried something different, adjusted the mem speeds and the latencies manually (9-9-9-27 @1600 MHz), and memtested, the results were:

10:00 Hs 17 Passes No errors :D 

But the problem is still here.

I'm thinking now since the memtest showed that the memories are not defective, that there's something wrong with my Mobo.

Any new thoughts?
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