Car Troubles !!

Do you know how to diagnose a plug?

<font color=blue>By now you're probably wishing you had ask more questions first!</font color=blue>

LOL, look to see if it's shiny and black, usually indicates poor quality fuel burn or oil burn, oil usually causes a thicker crusting of the plug insulator. If it's dark brown and wet after starting the car and running it only a few seconds, it's not firing. If it's brite white, you're not getting enough fuel. If it's bright white and speckled, you're burning your pistons with not enough fuel. If it shows where it's time to replace them.

You didn't happen to get the thing low on gas did you? Often years of condensation will settle to the bottom of the tank, and one day when you let the fuel get a little low, it starts sucking that dirty rusty nasty watter from the bottom.

<font color=blue>By now you're probably wishing you had ask more questions first!</font color=blue>

Probably not the oxygen sensor, as "limp home mode" for a bad O2 sensor actually makes it run a bit richer, with no noticable power decrease.

<font color=blue>By now you're probably wishing you had ask more questions first!</font color=blue>

Sounds like your guessing in the right direction. Either timing or HT leads or related to them.

<b><font color=blue>~ BIOS SETTINGS: Fast, Hot, Unstable...That ought to work. ~</font color=blue></b>

We have checked the wires on friday (sprayed windex on them), they were shooting sparks, and after they were replaced, the problem did't dissapear.
A diagnostic computer costs around $2,000, plus my car's computer may not of known what the problem is (there is no "check engine" light)

The issue <i>was</i> definatelly timing, and to the point still <i>is</i>.

We have checked the cylinders pressure, all were at 150psi- thats an indication that timing is ok.
But when we adjusted the timing on the distribitor cap- the engine started to respond differently.
We have moved the dial all the way down (either to the earlies or to the latest mark for the ignition). And a quick test drive, the power was back.

So should I say the issue is resolved, or in computer terms, a "work around" was given.

The cause of this, the timing chain is stretched. I dont know how long it will be able to hold with its "aggressive" and "overclocked" settings, but for now it will do.

Some drawbacks are "more heat" and more "gas consumption".

I'm going to check what is the interval between timing chains changes for my truck (or if anyone knows?)

I have looked in the Haynes auto book, changing that thing is a nightmare.

Crash and Camie, thank you for the help.

A chain would only jump if its stretched or not tighten properly. So, infact that is my guess as well that its loose and probably did jump.

And yes, I know how a damaged valve looks like...

Some cars have very little clearance I know, and some will not reach at all!! But I'm going for two teeth- it still should't reach, and maybee it will jump back where it supposed to be

I have been told that only in hi performance cars the clearance would be really really extremely close, but in the old pickup I'll take my chances with at least 2 teeth.

Have you ever changed a timing chain?

Never changed a timing chain either. Timing belt once. Set x degrees BTDC etc.

I once had one snap while I was driving home from work. The thing just died and I pulled over. Tried restarting again and again. I too was very lucky. No bent stems. You shouldn't chance it, cos the hassle involved if it happens is far too much.

Ignition timing adjustments helped. You've replaced the plugs & cap. You've sprayed the sockets of the HT leads with WD-40 or similar? It still sounds like an ignition issue. If it was static timing, you wouldn't be able to 'improve' it without adjusting it. (I think. Not an expert.) You've checked all the little obvious ones? Air intakes for the carb, choke and accelerator cables etc. Mixture screws.

Worth a look.

<b><font color=blue>~ BIOS SETTINGS: Fast, Hot, Unstable...That ought to work. ~</font color=blue></b>

So... did you check the timing yet?!!! If your timing chain jumped, your ignition timing would be retarded as well (assuming your truck has a distrubutor running off the cam).

An engine needs fuel, air, compression, and ignition.

You have at least partially comfirmed that it's not a fuel prob. At least up to the injectors.

Check the intake path for obstructions. I've seen lots of rodents built nests in there. Check to see that the throttle body opens all the way when the pedal is depressed (though linkage problems wouldn't normally cause low idle).

You have checked compression. It's good. It is high enough that it about negates the possibility of a slipped timing chain.

What was/is the ignition timing? Move the timing light's lead to all cylinders to check for spark to each.

Try starting the truck when it's cold. Feel the exhaust manifold as it warms up. You should be able to tell if any of the cylinders are completely dead.

---
My posts are even more useful when printed on a roll of Charmin®.

I have replaced a timing belt onces, and that was enough for me to change a carreer
And yeah, all of that was checked by me and a mechanic.

Yes, we have.
It was determined to be a timing issue, because we had to move the cap dial all-the-way down for the engine to start running "normally".
Whitch does lead to a belief of a jumped chain.

I'm not sure about this.

The engine has fuel {fuel pump was checked, its pumping; and fuel wilter was replaced)
Air filter was cleaned, and we have tried the engine without one- making no difference, there is no bird nests in the hose.
There is compression since the engine "works"
There is ignition, distributor, wires, and plugs were replaced.

Yes, that was our first guess. But what else could be wrong?!! Besides the compression tester we used was $25 from Pep Boys- it possibly could of easily been off by 1-3psi.
And as Crash pointed out I think that the compresion might still be seen normal, but the chain still slipped.

Again, its doubtfull now that it is the electrical problem, since there is no check engine light, and the engine works fine with tuned timing.

I'm not sure.

each plug had sparks, it was verified by spraying windex on the wires.

I cant wait till winter, it doest get cold here now
The cylinders were checked manually- by listening to them with the "listener" they were sounding normal (as in high pitch "cthic" )

$800 without heads. The heads got damaged in machining. You can get a nice set of Edelbrock aluminum racing heads if you like! This is a 350DX block bored for 30 over 425 pistons, 377 cubic inch shortstroke.

<font color=blue>By now you're probably wishing you had asked more questions first!</font color=blue>

Of course!

Should have asked a motorcycle mechanic. He would have said "chain & sprockets" right away.

<b><font color=blue>~ BIOS SETTINGS: Fast, Hot, Unstable...That ought to work. ~</font color=blue></b>

Hmmm. Cut a hole in the foot well and make like Fred Flintstone.

Yabadabadoo!

<b><font color=blue>~ BIOS SETTINGS: Fast, Hot, Unstable...That ought to work. ~</font color=blue></b>

Luck.

Remember the golden rule...if in doubt, hit it with a hammer.

<b><font color=blue>~ BIOS SETTINGS: Fast, Hot, Unstable...That ought to work. ~</font color=blue></b>

It was a long weekend, I can barelly type.

Saturday the day started at 7am and finished at 1.05am.

That chain was streched big time!!!
one of the guides was broken, and the tensioner was worn out.

Upon observation that chain had jumped 4 links, thats 7 holes!!

Well the new one is in place, and it seems to be doing ok now. Its the 6th sence that is bothering me that something is just not 100%, or maybee its just me.

<pre>we only had 2 bolts left over </pre><p>

Keep an eye on the tension for the first few weeks. I would assume after being 'run in' the tension would slacken off and need to be taken in, or is it automatic?

After 3 months, just check it every 6 months when you change the oil.

<b><font color=blue>~ Gotta question? Tried searching the boards first? Good! Ask away! ~<font color=blue></b>

Dude, you know who came up with the 3,000 mile rule? Greedy shops. My MANUAL says change the oil ever 7,000 miles! Unless you're operating a police car, taxi, or in heavy dust, then it's every 4,500 miles. Generally, I think every 5,000 miles is enough to give the engine that "extra protection" people think they're getting by changing it every 3,000 miles.

Oh, but here's the worst-I bought a bent, rusty Cavalier with 145k miles and drove it for four years. I changed the oil ONCE. It still ran great when I sold it. During my ownership it burned roughly a quart every three months.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>

Well, in the U.S. we have these very old, very poorly cared for cars, built in the late 60's and early 70's, still on the road, driven by the poor. Over half of them are Oldsmobiles. Oldsmobile engines until the early 70's had a higher nickel content in the blocks than other GM enginges (except maybe Cadillac), and better quality machine work, and heavier parts. GM dropped the engine design after several attempts in the 70's and 80's to cheapen it, Chevrolet engines were the cheapest to make and are now universally used in GM vehicles with V8's, except for Cadilac.

<font color=blue>You're posting in a forum with class. It may be third class, but it's still class!</font color=blue>