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abit fatality FF error

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February 15, 2005 11:06:14 PM

hi all
could someone please tell me what the FF error and alarm
on this board mean. it shows FF on the little display on the board.
thanks

More about : abit fatality error

February 16, 2005 2:09:42 AM

Have you looked in your manual?

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February 16, 2005 2:58:03 AM

A little more info would be nice :smile: What were you doing when the error occured? OCing?

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February 16, 2005 7:24:31 AM

sorry for the lack of info, it was 3 in the morning LOL
Iv just built the machine all at stock, and the first time I booted up I got an intermittent beep-code followed by FF on the little display on the board.
winxp loaded fine
but still the error
this is what it sayes in the manual
FF Boot attempt (INT 19h)
after installing the drivers I got a blue screen saying
page_fault_in_nonpaged_area.
I'v tested the ram in another NF4 board and its fine.
I'm using a Hitachi SATA HDD
iv just taken the HDD off and installed an IDE HDD and it seems to work fine I had a couple of beeps but nothing much
it still sayes FF on the board.
Should an NF4 self-detect SATA drives or do I need to press F6 whilst installing winxp. Iv only got raid drivers on a floppy disk no SATA drivers.

abit AN8 Fatality
athlon64 3500
1 gig pc3200 crucial
160 gig Hitachi SATA
ATI X850XT

Im now running prime95 with no errors however I keep getting a burst of beeps every 30 seconds.

hope you can help
thanks
February 16, 2005 7:57:01 AM

Did you connect the power to the Radeon?

What is your PSU?
February 16, 2005 9:15:13 AM

What power supply you using?
What sort of temperatures are you getting (use MBM5, or something to check them, or even look in BIOS).

Try running Memtest86. the RAM might be fine, but if your board is trying to run it with tighter timings or something then it might still give errors.

And yes, I think you <i>do</i> need to install the drivers with F6 if you're trying to get windows to boot off a SATA HDD.

What do you mean when you say 'intermittent beep code'? Common ones:
1 long beep, then series of short beeps usually = Gfx card problem (not seated properly)
lots of short beeps usually means a memory problem.

Other beeps can mean temperature probs etc.

---
"Sex without love is an empty experience...
But as empty experiences go, it's one of the best" - Woody Allen
February 16, 2005 3:13:28 PM

<A HREF="http://www.osronline.com/article.cfm?id=335" target="_new">page_fault_in_nonpaged_area</A> - Google is your friend! Looks like it may be drivers causing this issue.

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:tongue: <font color=red>Have you read the FAQ? Searched for other posts on this topic?</font color=red><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by Rugger on 02/16/05 12:17 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
February 16, 2005 5:20:11 PM

That was a good read, thanks for the linky!

Gwen,

The first thing that I would do is check the MoBo's website and find a RAM compatibilty chart. Make sure that you Mobo doesnt have any know issues with your particular RAM. You may also check the RAM's website and look for compatible RAM for your MOBO. Rule this out first. The Sata F6 thing depends on the MOBO I think that most of the time you do have to f6 the drivers however on my ASUS this was not necsessay. My cut at this would be to take everything out of your system except for the few components that it requires to boot up and load the OS. RAM, Video Card, CD ROM, maybe the Floppy. Reformat your HD so that you can start over clean. Make sure that you have each cable plugged into the mobo correctly as well as the component. Reformat, then reload the OS. Start to load the system drivers one at the time rebooting after each is loaded. Pay attention to what you did last if the problem shows up again. This will probably point you to the issue. If every thing installs correctly without any problems then start putting the other hardware in one piece at the time loading the drivers and software for each component then rebooting and ruung some stress test before moving to the next component.

Hope this helps

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February 16, 2005 5:31:21 PM

Glad Google could lend a helping hand...or link! :smile:

How's the cooling project going?

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February 16, 2005 5:32:20 PM

thanks alot for your help guys
I needed to enable raid in the bios and then install the drivers.
I was still getting the beep code so I called abit tech and they said it was a sirun telling me one of my fans was running to slow. I gues it was because I'm running an xp120hsf.
It's all good now, I just ran prime95 for 4 hours with no errors.
thanks again for all your help

Oh and abit tech support took about 30 seconds to answer my call. now that is service for you. i'm well inpressed
February 16, 2005 5:57:54 PM

Which one are you referring to :lol:  I have undertaken 3 or 4 different experiments lately. Is it the one that I was using the mineral oil instead of water in my regular cooing system?

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February 16, 2005 5:59:18 PM

Good for you. Glad to hear all is well. Thats also good to know that their support was so quick.

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February 16, 2005 8:19:21 PM

Thanks again guy's
February 17, 2005 12:54:39 PM

The mineral oil project - haven't seen any updates lately! :smile: Has the overall average exceeded water average?

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February 18, 2005 12:36:33 AM

Yes, it took over 24 hours. It takes a long time for it to build up the heat, but then it holds on to it. My average temps went up over 5C. The one thing that could have made the results flawed is that I didnt have as much mineral oil as I would have liked to have used. The best comparison would of course be with the same amount of Oil as when I was using water. Im going to try it again even though I dont think that the there will be an advantage. I am curious as to how well oil will cool. If mineral oil cools extremely fast then I have another idea. We shall see.

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February 18, 2005 4:27:51 AM

Hmmm...5C is a significant difference. I don't think the extra oil will have a huge impact. More than likely it will reach the same temp - just take it a bit longer to get there due to the increased volume of oil. Based on your results, the oil has a lesser capacity to hold heat (demonstrated by 5C avg temp increase) and a slower heat transfer rate (demonstrated by the increased time to reach avg temp) than water. You would need a more efficient radiator to take the heat off in the cooling stage in order to compensate and lower avg temps.

Was the overall goal of using the min oil to increase system safety in the case of cooling component malfunction and leakage by using a non-conductive coolant? OR was it to decrease avg system temps using an alternate coolant? Optimal results would have been both, but what was the overarching goal?

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February 18, 2005 12:48:39 PM

Hey guys not sure if i'm posting in the correct section however: I just bought an ABIT AN8 (not Fatal1ty) (havn't received it yet) after which i realised it uses the NForce4 chipset instead of the ULTRA version. I REAALY NEED to overclock to at least 220 FSB and i read where the vanilla NForce4 has the HTT Bus or whatever locked.... :(  MY question is why would ABIT have OTES, uGURU, 2ghz HT & on a board that can't overclock ?? (it even has the Fatal1ty logo on the manual) also i read where the vanilla NForce4 is only 800HT instead of 1000HT ?????
Maybe i'm confused
Any contribution welcome
THANKS

http://www.abit-usa.com/products/mb/techspec.php?catego...
February 18, 2005 10:06:41 PM

Thats a very good question. Actually my main goal at the beginning was for safety purposes. However now I am equally as interested in it for cooling. What you said makes sense, but tell what you think about this; Adding say twice the amount of oil to the resivoir would give the oil longer to cool down thus reducing that overall rise in temps. My cut at this would be to first determine how the hotter oil that would come back into the resivior would react to the cooler oil inside the resivior that has not yet had time to heat back up. We automatically think of a submersible pump sitting at the bottom of the resivior. Now if your resivior was 3 to 5 gallons then there is a significant area from top to the bottom that the pump could actually be placed. IF the hotter oil that is coming back in from the CPU would tend to sink to through the cooler oil towards the bottom of the resivior then the return hose could be clamped at the bottom and the pump at the top part of the resivior so that the pump is always pushing the coolest oil. We could reverse this if the hotter oil if found to stay towards the top of the resvior.

Also I need to add this. I forgot to mention that I did not use a radiator on this first test run. The reason being that from what data I found it led ne ti beleive that unless a much bigger radiator was used as well as a bigger fan then all the it would do would be to prolong the the time that it would take for the oil to heat up past the point that it no longer would be a better cooling solution than water. I just realized something. Remember that I said that it took the oil a very long time to heat up and then maintain that heat. So for over 12 hours probably closer to 18 or 20 the oil seemed to be outperforming the water. If the resivior was increased to twice the capacity and the oil heated up at the same rate then it would take almost 40 hours to get to the point that it was not the best performer. Easy fix would be to have a couple of 1GAL milk jugs full of oil and in the fridge so that every 40 to 48 hours you would simply place the return hose into an empty jug and start to empty the oil into two empty jugs. When the oil level reached to just an inch or so above the pump then switch the return hose back to the resvior and simply pour the fridge cooled oil into the resivior and place the other oil back into the fridge to begin cooing it back down.

This is worth looking into. It may not be pratical, but if this did show to be an overall improvement in temps and at the same time increasing the saftey of the system then I could start to think of ways to make the process more practical.

BTW about to embard on cooling experiment #4.which invovles cooling the back of the mobo while in the case and running by means of mineral oil :smile:

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February 19, 2005 12:40:28 AM

I'm at work. I'm sitting beside a pre WW2 fridge. It uses amonia instead of freon. Still works fine after 60+ years.
Of course, if it springs a leak, I am dead.
February 19, 2005 12:41:29 AM

So, FF stands for Fu-ked fan. Thanks for the info.
February 19, 2005 12:43:04 AM

Quote:
want use ammonia

You just lost me. where did that come from?

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February 19, 2005 2:32:47 AM

Screw you :lol:  The heck with the Chemistry book. I just didnt know what brought up the subject about ammonia. On the port80 issue; I must disagree, I have used the port80 or do you forget about me having an EPOX as well.

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February 19, 2005 1:23:01 PM

Quote:
IF the hotter oil that is coming back in from the CPU would tend to sink to through the cooler oil towards the bottom of the resivior then the return hose could be clamped at the bottom and the pump at the top part of the resivior so that the pump is always pushing the coolest oil. We could reverse this if the hotter oil if found to stay towards the top of the resvior.


The hot mineral oil will rise in the container or tend to remain on top. Something that might extend the time it takes to exceed the avg water temps is to mix/stir the oil, so the cooler oil cools the warm oil. Where are your outlet to the PC and return to reservoir? Both on top, bottom or one on top and the other bottom? Assuming reservoir return to be on the top and outlet to PC to be on the bottom you could mount a small capacity pump at the top. Then run the intake side to the bottom and discharge on the top. This would help to keep oil temps uniform....but wouldn't solve the problem.

Quote:
Easy fix would be to have a couple of 1GAL milk jugs full of oil and in the fridge so that every 40 to 48 hours you would simply place the return hose into an empty jug and start to empty the oil into two empty jugs. When the oil level reached to just an inch or so above the pump then switch the return hose back to the resvior and simply pour the fridge cooled oil into the resivior and place the other oil back into the fridge to begin cooing it back down.


Installing a y valve with additional hose/piping on the return would make it easier to fill those containers. I think this would solve the issue, but is definitely not practical! I'll brainstorm this some to see if I can think of something else, too.

Quote:
BTW about to embard on cooling experiment #4.which invovles cooling the back of the mobo while in the case and running by means of mineral oil


I want to see pics of THAT experiment! :smile:


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February 19, 2005 1:25:20 PM

Very interesting! I don't think it has the same safety features - to human or PC - as the mineral oil, but please correct me if i'm wrong.

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February 19, 2005 6:54:11 PM

Stiring it is a good idea.

Quote:
you could mount a small capacity pump

Negative on small capacity. It takes a mid line aquarium pump to push the oil because its so thick. As far as where the pump is located as well as the returns my setup is very flexible,

Quote:
I want to see pics of THAT experiment!

If Folken sees this comment he is going to kick my butt for starting something else without posting pics of my last project. The good news is that as of last night, I got about half way through putting a rinky dink website together.

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February 20, 2005 1:45:18 AM

Quote:
If Folken sees this comment he is going to kick my butt for starting something else without posting pics of my last project.

LOL!
Quote:
The good news is that as of last night, I got about half way through putting a rinky dink website together

Post a link! :smile:

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