No one seems to have posted anything about it, so I thought I would:
It appears to be one of the first DDR Athlon boards with multiplier adjust (through dipswitches instead of the BIOS). I've got an AD11, a 1.0GHz Tbird (AVFA, 48th week 2000 that I've had since the beginning of Jan in a KT7), and a stick of 256MB CAS2 PC1600 Crucial brand with Micron chips.
I did find that my nearly 3 month old pencil markings did *not* work with this board (with multiplier adjust on, it would no POST). I do have something new that I haven't heard about that people can try though. I was at a LAN party and a guy there loaned me some stuff used to repair the rear defrosters on cars. You know, those little black lines that run across the back window. It's permanent unlike the #2 pencil, can easily be removed with alcohol and a swab, and easy to put on. I put it on with the toothpick from my Swiss Army Knife and used the blade to separate the places where I had 2 bridges connecting. It's easier to find and cheaper than the conductive pens. The guy told me about $8 or $9 for enough to do thousands of CPUs.
The board doesn't list settings below 1.700Vcore, but they are easy to find. Currently set to 1.650V (1.73V in the BIOS), 9.0x 133MHz bus for 1.2GHz with PC2100 set at CAS 2.5
Seems mostly stable. Crashes in Quake 3 at those speeds frequently, but Unreal Tournament and CounterStrike run fine. Did 9.5 hours hardcore stability testing overnight with case closed.
Also highly recommend the Addtronics 7896A case with all optional fans and a fanbus. Too many fans at 12V is too loud, but this case is large, easy to use, and comes with more fans (with no modifications) than any other case I've known.
-Dee's Troy
It appears to be one of the first DDR Athlon boards with multiplier adjust (through dipswitches instead of the BIOS). I've got an AD11, a 1.0GHz Tbird (AVFA, 48th week 2000 that I've had since the beginning of Jan in a KT7), and a stick of 256MB CAS2 PC1600 Crucial brand with Micron chips.
I did find that my nearly 3 month old pencil markings did *not* work with this board (with multiplier adjust on, it would no POST). I do have something new that I haven't heard about that people can try though. I was at a LAN party and a guy there loaned me some stuff used to repair the rear defrosters on cars. You know, those little black lines that run across the back window. It's permanent unlike the #2 pencil, can easily be removed with alcohol and a swab, and easy to put on. I put it on with the toothpick from my Swiss Army Knife and used the blade to separate the places where I had 2 bridges connecting. It's easier to find and cheaper than the conductive pens. The guy told me about $8 or $9 for enough to do thousands of CPUs.
The board doesn't list settings below 1.700Vcore, but they are easy to find. Currently set to 1.650V (1.73V in the BIOS), 9.0x 133MHz bus for 1.2GHz with PC2100 set at CAS 2.5
Seems mostly stable. Crashes in Quake 3 at those speeds frequently, but Unreal Tournament and CounterStrike run fine. Did 9.5 hours hardcore stability testing overnight with case closed.
Also highly recommend the Addtronics 7896A case with all optional fans and a fanbus. Too many fans at 12V is too loud, but this case is large, easy to use, and comes with more fans (with no modifications) than any other case I've known.
-Dee's Troy
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