HP inkjets for homemade business cards using Word->FM temp..

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.

1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
preserved?

2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
normally.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
> 1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> preserved?
>
> 2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
> the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
> working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
> don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
> is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
> more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
> normally.

Burt wrote:
> Just print a plain paper copy and see how it lines up. Business cards are
> usually about 2" by 3.5", so you can calculate the margins outside the cards
> and know how much to cut off before cutting the cards apart.

I'm actually trying to determine if the positioning on the page is the
same on the screen as it is in hard copy. There are no delineations of
the card edges on a plain white sheet.

> By calibration do you mean the print head alignment? That is a minute
> adjustment to coordinate printing of the black and color output. If that is
> the adjustment you are asking about it will not affect placement of the text
> on the paper. I don't know if this printer has another alignment utility to
> adjust the printed image on the paper additional to the usual print head
> alignment utility I mentioned.

I'm not sure if it is a fine alignment or a gross alignment. I just know
that the printer use to print out a calibration page with full color, then
I had to put the calibration page on the scanner for it to calibrate.

> Why would you want to translate the templates to another program? They work
> fine in both MS Word and Wordperfect. I print cards on Wausau 80 # cover
> cardstock that I purchase at a commercial paper house that sells to printing
> firms. Cut them up with a paper cutter after they are printed. Much
> cheaper than the precut cards. I haven't tried this stock with an inkjet
> printer, but black text should work just fine.

I am much more proficient with Framemaker than Word.

I have considered cutting my own calling cards, but I really have no place
to put a paper cutter. As well, the paper cutters that I have used have
the habit of forcing the paper to change position slightly while cutting, so
the edges are rarely straight. Though it might be a result of cutting more
than one sheet at once.

Paper cutters are big beasts, and my space is small enough that having one
is a nontrivial consideration. However, I will looking into the pricing
of paper cutters.

Thanks for the info about the the card sizes and margins. I actually
scrutinized the postscript printout of the template from word and
compared it to my own home-made template of ten 3.5"x2" cards in Framemaker.
They are almost identical, with only a horizontal shift of 1 point (which
I think is 1/72 inches). So the fact that I'm making my own template in
Framemaker is not a problem. I will see if the positioning on a plain
8.5"x11" sheet of paper is accurate.

 

[BURT]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Just print a plain paper copy and see how it lines up. Business cards are
usually about 2" by 3.5", so you can calculate the margins outside the cards
and know how much to cut off before cutting the cards apart.

By calibration do you mean the print head alignment? That is a minute
adjustment to coordinate printing of the black and color output. If that is
the adjustment you are asking about it will not affect placement of the text
on the paper. I don't know if this printer has another alignment utility to
adjust the printed image on the paper additional to the usual print head
alignment utility I mentioned.

Why would you want to translate the templates to another program? They work
fine in both MS Word and Wordperfect. I print cards on Wausau 80 # cover
cardstock that I purchase at a commercial paper house that sells to printing
firms. Cut them up with a paper cutter after they are printed. Much
cheaper than the precut cards. I haven't tried this stock with an inkjet
printer, but black text should work just fine.

"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
news:42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org...
>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
> 1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> preserved?
>
> 2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
> the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
> working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
> don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
> is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
> more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
> normally.

 

[Chuck]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Always proof spacing on plain paper.
Uncut sheets of stock are a LOT cheaper than microperf business card stock.
A small paper cutter doesn't take a lot of space. Some designs have a wheel
cutter instead of the heavy blade.

"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
news:42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org...
>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
> 1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> preserved?
>
> 2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
> the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
> working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
> don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
> is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
> more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
> normally.

 

[budgie]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:12:23 -0400, "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:

>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.

(snip rest)

I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd rather buy
cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother fiddling with printing my
own. Check them out. (No affiliation other than a more-than-once user.)

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time, then slice them
up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand. Because I don't hand out
business cards a lot, this works for me. Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards
with high odds of a phone number or email change in this day and age? Maybe
tomorrow I'll go VOIP, sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my
business cards obsolete... Ben Myers

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 08:50:47 +0800, budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:12:23 -0400, "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
>
>>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
>(snip rest)
>
>I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd rather buy
>cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother fiddling with printing my
>own. Check them out. (No affiliation other than a more-than-once user.)

 

[budgie]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 01:33:39 GMT, ben_myers_spam_me_not @ charter.net (Ben
Myers) wrote:
>
>On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 08:50:47 +0800, budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 15:12:23 -0400, "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
>>
>>>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>>>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>>
>>(snip rest)
>>
>>I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd rather buy
>>cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother fiddling with printing my
>>own. Check them out. (No affiliation other than a more-than-once user.)
>
>I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time, then slice them
>up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand. Because I don't hand out
>business cards a lot, this works for me. Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards
>with high odds of a phone number or email change in this day and age? Maybe
>tomorrow I'll go VOIP, sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my
>business cards obsolete... Ben Myers

At the price of the commercial product from Vista, I'm prepared to take the risk
of content obsolescence. There are "free" standard layouts and 90% of the time
their next tier is $US4 for 250 (both plus postage). Beats the hell out of home
brew for anyone with an actual need for biz cards. But hey if it makes you feel
good to do your own printing/cutting then I'm happy for you.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

You can't imagine the rush of happiness I get whenever I slice and dice my own
business cards. Pity it happens so rarely, maybe once every 6 months. At that
rate, a supply of 250 would last me 10 years... Ben Myers

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 17:50:25 +0800, budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:

<SNIP>
>>I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time, then slice them
>>up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand. Because I don't hand out
>>business cards a lot, this works for me. Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards
>>with high odds of a phone number or email change in this day and age? Maybe
>>tomorrow I'll go VOIP, sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my
>>business cards obsolete... Ben Myers
>
>At the price of the commercial product from Vista, I'm prepared to take the risk
>of content obsolescence. There are "free" standard layouts and 90% of the time
>their next tier is $US4 for 250 (both plus postage). Beats the hell out of home
>brew for anyone with an actual need for biz cards. But hey if it makes you feel
>good to do your own printing/cutting then I'm happy for you.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.

budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd
> rather buy cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother
> fiddling with printing my own. Check them out. (No affiliation
> other than a more-than-once user.)

ben_myers_spam_me_not @ charter.net (Ben Myers) wrote:
> I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time,
> then slice them up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand.
> Because I don't hand out business cards a lot, this works for me.
> Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards with high odds of a phone number
> or email change in this day and age? Maybe tomorrow I'll go VOIP,
> sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my business
> cards obsolete... Ben Myers

budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> At the price of the commercial product from Vista, I'm prepared to
> take the risk of content obsolescence. There are "free" standard
> layouts and 90% of the time their next tier is $US4 for 250 (both
> plus postage). Beats the hell out of home brew for anyone with an
> actual need for biz cards. But hey if it makes you feel good to do
> your own printing/cutting then I'm happy for you.

I believe that there are other reasons besides a large backlog of
business cards for not wanting to change one's contact information
frequently. A major reason is that you would have to send new
business cards to people who have your old one. Unless they replace
your old one with your new one right away, it could become confusing
for them. If they have you in the organizer, they would have to
update that, too.

Having said that, however, I have to admit that I could be changing my
calling card somewhat frequently for the next little while. I am in
the information gathering phase of planning a next career step; the
details of how I want to present myself will become refined as I meet
with more professional practitioners to get their view on the
industry. Though my contact info remains the same, the content must
be agile -- not only will I change content frequently, and thus need
small quantities, it would be inconvenient to wait several days to get
revised cards.

I have done a cost comparison between printing & cutting my own cards,
printing onto Avery pre-perforated cards, and having a PDF printed and
cut by a local print shop. I am assuming 10 cards/page, though one
can squeeze out 12 with landscape layout; this is not generally
supported by professional print/cut shops.

1. Print & cut myself
---------------------
* 110 lb paper, pprox. $0.10/page
* Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
* Assume cutter for 110 lb paper should be lever type, for clean
edge (minimum $50, upto $100+)
* Total: $0.17/page,
plus $50~$100 for a cutter (and space to store it)

2. Avery pre-perforated (clean edge)
------------------------------------
* $1.33/page
* Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
* Total: $1.40/page

3. Print & cut by shop
----------------------
* $1.25/page (laser printed)
* $1.00 overhead to extract 10-up content from PDF file
- This is understandable. I spent a while just fiddling around
to find proper layout, which differed on the printed page
versus on-screen PDF (turned out to be a printer setting)
- Assuming 3 page/order, this adds 0.33/page
* $1.00/page to cut
* Total: $2.58/page, clean laser quality

4. Local Campus print shop
--------------------------
* $1.25/page
* $10 fixed cost on top of page charge
* Assuming 3 page/order, this adds $3.33/page
* Total: $4.58/page

For *self-printing* ink-jet quality, #1 is a clear winner for the
long-haul. For the immediate term, #2 is the clear winner. My
ink-jet (PSC-750) is pretty good. There is some fuzziness (more like
a softness) when the printed card is observed at regular viewing
distance. It is not until one scrutinizes the print up close that it
becomes clear that the outline of the letters are a bit "hairy".

For laser quality, #3 is the clear winner, though #4 *might* be more
likely to respond the same day rather then the next day.

So the strategy moving forward is to use #3 for the laser quality
(these things matter to the viewer at an unconscious level). If the
volume seems to be getting excessive, I can revert to #2, with the
associated drop in paper & print quality. For truely large volume or
long-haul, I'll drop to #1. #4 is a contingency for emergencies (and
it isn't even for sure that the turn-around time will be quicker than
for #3 -- it will probably be situation-specific).

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Just a point I forgot to add: For shop-printed cards, glossy finish
is an option that seems to add a touch of class or professionalism
to the card, but if the recipient of the card writes nots on the card,
the writing seems to smear more readily.

Anonymous, Kinda wrote:
> "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> > I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> > Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
> budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> > I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd
> > rather buy cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother
> > fiddling with printing my own. Check them out. (No affiliation
> > other than a more-than-once user.)
>
> ben_myers_spam_me_not @ charter.net (Ben Myers) wrote:
> > I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time,
> > then slice them up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand.
> > Because I don't hand out business cards a lot, this works for me.
> > Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards with high odds of a phone number
> > or email change in this day and age? Maybe tomorrow I'll go VOIP,
> > sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my business
> > cards obsolete... Ben Myers
>
> budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
> > At the price of the commercial product from Vista, I'm prepared to
> > take the risk of content obsolescence. There are "free" standard
> > layouts and 90% of the time their next tier is $US4 for 250 (both
> > plus postage). Beats the hell out of home brew for anyone with an
> > actual need for biz cards. But hey if it makes you feel good to do
> > your own printing/cutting then I'm happy for you.
>
> I believe that there are other reasons besides a large backlog of
> business cards for not wanting to change one's contact information
> frequently. A major reason is that you would have to send new
> business cards to people who have your old one. Unless they replace
> your old one with your new one right away, it could become confusing
> for them. If they have you in the organizer, they would have to
> update that, too.
>
> Having said that, however, I have to admit that I could be changing my
> calling card somewhat frequently for the next little while. I am in
> the information gathering phase of planning a next career step; the
> details of how I want to present myself will become refined as I meet
> with more professional practitioners to get their view on the
> industry. Though my contact info remains the same, the content must
> be agile -- not only will I change content frequently, and thus need
> small quantities, it would be inconvenient to wait several days to get
> revised cards.
>
> I have done a cost comparison between printing & cutting my own cards,
> printing onto Avery pre-perforated cards, and having a PDF printed and
> cut by a local print shop. I am assuming 10 cards/page, though one
> can squeeze out 12 with landscape layout; this is not generally
> supported by professional print/cut shops.
>
> 1. Print & cut myself
> ---------------------
> * 110 lb paper, pprox. $0.10/page
> * Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
> * Assume cutter for 110 lb paper should be lever type, for clean
> edge (minimum $50, upto $100+)
> * Total: $0.17/page,
> plus $50~$100 for a cutter (and space to store it)
>
> 2. Avery pre-perforated (clean edge)
> ------------------------------------
> * $1.33/page
> * Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
> * Total: $1.40/page
>
> 3. Print & cut by shop
> ----------------------
> * $1.25/page (laser printed)
> * $1.00 overhead to extract 10-up content from PDF file
> - This is understandable. I spent a while just fiddling around
> to find proper layout, which differed on the printed page
> versus on-screen PDF (turned out to be a printer setting)
> - Assuming 3 page/order, this adds 0.33/page
> * $1.00/page to cut
> * Total: $2.58/page, clean laser quality
>
> 4. Local Campus print shop
> --------------------------
> * $1.25/page
> * $10 fixed cost on top of page charge
> * Assuming 3 page/order, this adds $3.33/page
> * Total: $4.58/page
>
> For *self-printing* ink-jet quality, #1 is a clear winner for the
> long-haul. For the immediate term, #2 is the clear winner. My
> ink-jet (PSC-750) is pretty good. There is some fuzziness (more like
> a softness) when the printed card is observed at regular viewing
> distance. It is not until one scrutinizes the print up close that it
> becomes clear that the outline of the letters are a bit "hairy".
>
> For laser quality, #3 is the clear winner, though #4 *might* be more
> likely to respond the same day rather then the next day.
>
> So the strategy moving forward is to use #3 for the laser quality
> (these things matter to the viewer at an unconscious level). If the
> volume seems to be getting excessive, I can revert to #2, with the
> associated drop in paper & print quality. For truely large volume or
> long-haul, I'll drop to #1. #4 is a contingency for emergencies (and
> it isn't even for sure that the turn-around time will be quicker than
> for #3 -- it will probably be situation-specific).
>
> Thanks for your thoughts on this.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

In addition, being in a phase of career transition, you may want to present
yourself differently for different professional and business opportunities.
It's very easy to bang out 10 or 12 business cards customized for ones
profession du jour.

I bought a nice sharp paper cutter from Quill a number of years ago. I can lay
out 12 cards of 2"x3 1/2" dimensions in landscape on a single 8 1/2" x 11" piece
of paper. Do the math and that leaves 1/4" to trim off all sides... Ben Myers

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 14:16:47 -0400, "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:

>Just a point I forgot to add: For shop-printed cards, glossy finish
>is an option that seems to add a touch of class or professionalism
>to the card, but if the recipient of the card writes nots on the card,
>the writing seems to smear more readily.
>
>Anonymous, Kinda wrote:
>> "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
>> > I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>> > Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>>
>> budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>> > I know it's not the type of answer you were seeking, but IMOE I'd
>> > rather buy cards ex Vista Print (www.vistaprint.com) than bother
>> > fiddling with printing my own. Check them out. (No affiliation
>> > other than a more-than-once user.)
>>
>> ben_myers_spam_me_not @ charter.net (Ben Myers) wrote:
>> > I print out my business cards on 28 lb stock, a dozen at a time,
>> > then slice them up with a paper cutter and a very steady hand.
>> > Because I don't hand out business cards a lot, this works for me.
>> > Why buy 500 or 1000 business cards with high odds of a phone number
>> > or email change in this day and age? Maybe tomorrow I'll go VOIP,
>> > sign up with another ISP, or do something else to make my business
>> > cards obsolete... Ben Myers
>>
>> budgie <me@privacy.net> wrote:
>> > At the price of the commercial product from Vista, I'm prepared to
>> > take the risk of content obsolescence. There are "free" standard
>> > layouts and 90% of the time their next tier is $US4 for 250 (both
>> > plus postage). Beats the hell out of home brew for anyone with an
>> > actual need for biz cards. But hey if it makes you feel good to do
>> > your own printing/cutting then I'm happy for you.
>>
>> I believe that there are other reasons besides a large backlog of
>> business cards for not wanting to change one's contact information
>> frequently. A major reason is that you would have to send new
>> business cards to people who have your old one. Unless they replace
>> your old one with your new one right away, it could become confusing
>> for them. If they have you in the organizer, they would have to
>> update that, too.
>>
>> Having said that, however, I have to admit that I could be changing my
>> calling card somewhat frequently for the next little while. I am in
>> the information gathering phase of planning a next career step; the
>> details of how I want to present myself will become refined as I meet
>> with more professional practitioners to get their view on the
>> industry. Though my contact info remains the same, the content must
>> be agile -- not only will I change content frequently, and thus need
>> small quantities, it would be inconvenient to wait several days to get
>> revised cards.
>>
>> I have done a cost comparison between printing & cutting my own cards,
>> printing onto Avery pre-perforated cards, and having a PDF printed and
>> cut by a local print shop. I am assuming 10 cards/page, though one
>> can squeeze out 12 with landscape layout; this is not generally
>> supported by professional print/cut shops.
>>
>> 1. Print & cut myself
>> ---------------------
>> * 110 lb paper, pprox. $0.10/page
>> * Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
>> * Assume cutter for 110 lb paper should be lever type, for clean
>> edge (minimum $50, upto $100+)
>> * Total: $0.17/page,
>> plus $50~$100 for a cutter (and space to store it)
>>
>> 2. Avery pre-perforated (clean edge)
>> ------------------------------------
>> * $1.33/page
>> * Injet printing (OK, not super) about $0.07/page
>> * Total: $1.40/page
>>
>> 3. Print & cut by shop
>> ----------------------
>> * $1.25/page (laser printed)
>> * $1.00 overhead to extract 10-up content from PDF file
>> - This is understandable. I spent a while just fiddling around
>> to find proper layout, which differed on the printed page
>> versus on-screen PDF (turned out to be a printer setting)
>> - Assuming 3 page/order, this adds 0.33/page
>> * $1.00/page to cut
>> * Total: $2.58/page, clean laser quality
>>
>> 4. Local Campus print shop
>> --------------------------
>> * $1.25/page
>> * $10 fixed cost on top of page charge
>> * Assuming 3 page/order, this adds $3.33/page
>> * Total: $4.58/page
>>
>> For *self-printing* ink-jet quality, #1 is a clear winner for the
>> long-haul. For the immediate term, #2 is the clear winner. My
>> ink-jet (PSC-750) is pretty good. There is some fuzziness (more like
>> a softness) when the printed card is observed at regular viewing
>> distance. It is not until one scrutinizes the print up close that it
>> becomes clear that the outline of the letters are a bit "hairy".
>>
>> For laser quality, #3 is the clear winner, though #4 *might* be more
>> likely to respond the same day rather then the next day.
>>
>> So the strategy moving forward is to use #3 for the laser quality
>> (these things matter to the viewer at an unconscious level). If the
>> volume seems to be getting excessive, I can revert to #2, with the
>> associated drop in paper & print quality. For truely large volume or
>> long-haul, I'll drop to #1. #4 is a contingency for emergencies (and
>> it isn't even for sure that the turn-around time will be quicker than
>> for #3 -- it will probably be situation-specific).
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts on this.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

In article <42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org>,
"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:

> I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.

Precut cards works well if you do not have any design elements near the
border of an individual card.
Otherwise (bleeding edges etc) use a full sheet with no precuts, mark
cut lines in FrameMaker, and cut by hand. This is because the image in
laser printers and such will not always end up in the same place on the
page (up to a few millimeters tolerance because of the paper feed).

> 1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> preserved?

Why bother - create your own in Frame-Maker. What works best for me is
to create a frame or rectangle (no border) with the exact dimensions of
an ingdividual card, and place all the design elements in it.
Then group and copy as many times as you need, aligning and distributing
accordingly.
If you need a template for the idea, send e-mail, I'll send you mine in
FrameMaker.

HTH

Marc

--
Switzerland/Europe
<http://www.heusser.com>
remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an Xacto #11
Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00)

For printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on "Kirkland
Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright glossy surface,
Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ... or about 0.15 per
sheet).

Oh ... and if at all possible, use a VECTOR GRAPHICS program such as Corel
Draw or Adobe Illustrator. You can easily duplicate the "template" with
either of these programs, and they are *much* better for typesetting.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

RSD99 wrote:
> For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an Xacto #11
> Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00)

Hmm, interesting. I can get a wooden board on which to cut the sheet.
Sounds like a good idea to try out. I'm curious, is your suggestion
from experience?

> For printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on "Kirkland
> Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright glossy surface,
> Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ... or about 0.15 per
> sheet).

OK, I've noted that as a good medium on which to make cards. I don't
have a Costco membership, but something to keep in mind for if I do.
It sounds similar to 110 lb paper. I'd probably go for matt as I found
that writing on semigloss smears easily.

> Oh ... and if at all possible, use a VECTOR GRAPHICS program such as Corel
> Draw or Adobe Illustrator. You can easily duplicate the "template" with
> either of these programs, and they are *much* better for typesetting.

I use Framemaker without any pixelized content, which does a pretty
good job. It was easy to come up with the template just by studying
the Word template. The only trick was printing the resulting PDF.
The printing options had to be set to *not* resize to fit page before
it printed out properly. The default setting was to resize the
content. It seemed that this shrunk the entire 8.5"x11" PDF to fit
within the printable portion of the physical sheet, which probably
excludes a margin area around the edges due to limitations in the
physical design of the printer.

Thanks for your suggestion.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

RSD99 wrote:
> For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an Xacto #11
> Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00)

Hmm, interesting. I can get a wooden board on which to cut the sheet.
Sounds like a good idea to try out. I'm curious, is your suggestion
from experience?

> For printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on "Kirkland
> Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright glossy surface,
> Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ... or about 0.15 per
> sheet).

OK, I've noted that as a good medium on which to make cards. I don't
have a Costco membership, but something to keep in mind for if I do.
It sounds similar to 110 lb paper. I'd probably go for matt as I found
that writing on semigloss smears easily.

> Oh ... and if at all possible, use a VECTOR GRAPHICS program such as Corel
> Draw or Adobe Illustrator. You can easily duplicate the "template" with
> either of these programs, and they are *much* better for typesetting.

I use Framemaker without any pixelized content, which does a pretty
good job. It was easy to come up with the template just by studying
the Word template. The only trick was printing the resulting PDF.
The printing options had to be set to *not* resize to fit page before
it printed out properly. The default setting was to resize the
content. It seemed that this shrunk the entire 8.5"x11" PDF to fit
within the printable portion of the physical sheet, which probably
excludes a margin area around the edges due to limitations in the
physical design of the printer.

Thanks for your suggestion.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Chuck wrote:
> Always proof spacing on plain paper.

Yes, I found that this was necessary.

> Uncut sheets of stock are a LOT cheaper than microperf business card stock.

For sure.

> A small paper cutter doesn't take a lot of space. Some designs have a wheel
> cutter instead of the heavy blade.

I saw some rather compact cutters at low prices ($30+), but the staff
at the store suggested that for heavy paper, and considering that a
clean cut is essential, to go with the bigger lever cutters. Have
you found that the smaller cutters give a clean cut on heavy paper?
Was durability an issue?

> "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
> news:42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org...
>
>>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>>
>>1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
>>Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
>>preserved?
>>
>>2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
>>the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
>>working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
>>don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how accurate
>>is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
>>more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
>>normally.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Marc Heusser wrote:
>In article <42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org>, "Anonymous, Kinda"
><Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
>
>>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
>>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
>
> Precut cards works well if you do not have any design elements near the
> border of an individual card.
> Otherwise (bleeding edges etc) use a full sheet with no precuts, mark
> cut lines in FrameMaker, and cut by hand. This is because the image in
> laser printers and such will not always end up in the same place on the
> page (up to a few millimeters tolerance because of the paper feed).

I found that the position on the printed image was slightly different
from the position of the image on the virtual page on the screen, as
measured from the page edge. So your idea of marking where to cut is
certainly practical.

>>1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
>>Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
>>preserved?
>
> Why bother - create your own in Frame-Maker. What works best for me
> is to create a frame or rectangle (no border) with the exact
> dimensions of an ingdividual card, and place all the design elements
> in it. Then group and copy as many times as you need, aligning and
> distributing accordingly. If you need a template for the idea, send
> e-mail, I'll send you mine in FrameMaker. HTH Marc

Actually, I did create my own template in a manner similar to what
you describe. Thanks for the offer, and your suggestions.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

RSD99 wrote:

>For cutting - try adding cut marks to your template and buying an Xacto #11
>Frisket Knife and a metal straight edge(S/B ~~ $10.00)
>
>For printing - I have made variations of my 'Business Card' on "Kirkland
>Photo Paper" (10 mil thickness, nice and stiff, bright glossy surface,
>Costco stock number 26352. $18.99 for 125 sheets ... or about 0.15 per
>sheet).
>
>

GREAT STUFF

>Oh ... and if at all possible, use a VECTOR GRAPHICS program such as Corel
>Draw or Adobe Illustrator. You can easily duplicate the "template" with
>either of these programs, and they are *much* better for typesetting.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Fiskars makes a branded rotary cutter that is sold at Costco for under
$30.00/ It does a great job.

Anonymous, Kinda wrote:

> Chuck wrote:
> > Always proof spacing on plain paper.
>
> Yes, I found that this was necessary.
>
> > Uncut sheets of stock are a LOT cheaper than microperf business
> card stock.
>
> For sure.
>
> > A small paper cutter doesn't take a lot of space. Some designs have
> a wheel
> > cutter instead of the heavy blade.
>
> I saw some rather compact cutters at low prices ($30+), but the staff
> at the store suggested that for heavy paper, and considering that a
> clean cut is essential, to go with the bigger lever cutters. Have
> you found that the smaller cutters give a clean cut on heavy paper?
> Was durability an issue?
>
> > "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
> > news:42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org...
> >
> >>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> >>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
> >>
> >>1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> >>Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> >>preserved?
> >>
> >>2. I'm using an HP inkjet to print (PSC 750). I haven't calibrated
> >>the print heads because it requires that all the color cartridges be
> >>working. I haven't replaced the depleted color cartridges because I
> >>don't expect to use them. Does anyone have experience with how
> accurate
> >>is the positioning of the printout without this calibration? This is
> >>more critical when printing out on precut cards than when printing out
> >>normally.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

measekite wrote:
> Fiskars makes a branded rotary cutter that is sold at Costco for under
> $30.00/ It does a great job.

Since I don't have a Costco membership, I searched for Fiskars at the
website for our local office supplies store:
http://www.staples.ca/ENG/Catalog/cat_results.asp?txtSearch=fiskars

There are two 12" personal trimmers, a 12" rotary trimmer, and an 8.5"
trimmer, ranging from $20 to $70. I mentioned in another post that
home-cut cards may be a good option once I establish my usage pattern
and the volume is adquately high. The trade-off is the inkjet print
quality. Thanks for sharing your experience with cutters for
home-cutting.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2 inches
apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card stock. Then print
business cards using software of your choice (Word, Publisher, etc.). With
a razor knife and a straight edge, I cut the cards out using the tic marks
as a cutting guide.

I can send you this simple file if you email me.

Regards,

--
Dave C.

c9ar9dar9elli@9c4.n9et

Remove the five 9's (leave the 4) for email.


"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
news:42e8635c_2@x-privat.org...
> Marc Heusser wrote:
> >In article <42e5399e$1_1@x-privat.org>, "Anonymous, Kinda"
> ><Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> >
> >>I would like to make up calling cards at home using 8.5x11 sheets of
> >>Avery precut cards. Templates are provided for Word & Word Perfect.
> >
> > Precut cards works well if you do not have any design elements near the
> > border of an individual card.
> > Otherwise (bleeding edges etc) use a full sheet with no precuts, mark
> > cut lines in FrameMaker, and cut by hand. This is because the image in
> > laser printers and such will not always end up in the same place on the
> > page (up to a few millimeters tolerance because of the paper feed).
>
> I found that the position on the printed image was slightly different
> from the position of the image on the virtual page on the screen, as
> measured from the page edge. So your idea of marking where to cut is
> certainly practical.
>
> >>1. How well do people find the translation of the templates to
> >>Framemaker? Is the positioning of the business cards correctly
> >>preserved?
> >
> > Why bother - create your own in Frame-Maker. What works best for me
> > is to create a frame or rectangle (no border) with the exact
> > dimensions of an ingdividual card, and place all the design elements
> > in it. Then group and copy as many times as you need, aligning and
> > distributing accordingly. If you need a template for the idea, send
> > e-mail, I'll send you mine in FrameMaker. HTH Marc
>
> Actually, I did create my own template in a manner similar to what
> you describe. Thanks for the offer, and your suggestions.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Dave C. wrote:
> I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
> inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
> stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
> (Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
> cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
> send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.

Dave,

Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
appreciate your offer.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

You're welcome

--
Dave C.

c9ar9dar9elli@9c4.n9et

Remove the five 9's (leave the 4) for email.


"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote in message
news:42e9b003_2@x-privat.org...
> Dave C. wrote:
> > I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
> > inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
> > stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
> > (Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
> > cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
> > send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.
>
> Dave,
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
> appreciate your offer.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Dave C. wrote:
> I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
> inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
> stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
> (Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
> cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
> send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.

"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> Dave, Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
> appreciate your offer.

Dave C. wrote:
> You're welcome -- Dave C.

Hi, Dave,

I think I spoke too soon. I'm having trouble envisioning where you might
put these cut marks so that they don't actually run along the edges of the
cut (as in cutted) cards. The only way I can see that happening is if the
cards are not abutted. Is that how you've done it? If so, I can come up
with a pattern of cut marks, but it allows fewer cards per sheet then
abutted cards. The waste paper surrounding each card will also be slim,
but that might not be a problem.

If the cards *are* abutted -- say 10-up, in 2 columns of 5 -- then one
might leave cut marks at the margins surrounding the 10-card
aggretate. But the moment you make a cut, some of the cut pieces will
be missing cut marks either at the starting or ending points of the
cut.

For abutted cards, I can deal with the problem of missing cut marks in
the margins by projecting the cut marks into the 10-card aggregate
(along the edges of the individual cards), but this creates an erratic
shadow along the edge of each card.

Thanks for letting me know. If you have the template, could you
please send it to me at gor4ba4san@ya4hoo.ca (Remove the three 4's)?
Thanks!

P.S. According to the specs for the printer (HP PSC750), it can print
on 110 lb paper, but it seems to smear. Probably too close to the
ink nozzels. I tried to buy a few sheets of next lighter paper from
the local copy shop, and it works great, but the paper is *way*
lighter than 110 lb. Even though they said it was 90 lb, I can't see
that -- the Avery clean-edge cards have stiffness between the 110 lb
and "90 lb", and there is noticable difference between them. I will
contact them to see if they might have grabbed the wrong paper.
Everything is closed down for today and tomorrow though (Canadian
holiday).

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: comp.text.frame,comp.periphs.printers,comp.sys.hp.hardware (More info?)

Hammermill "Signs and Notices" 54 lb stock is plenty heavy for my use.

.... Ben Myers

On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 19:03:10 -0400, "Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:

>Dave C. wrote:
> > I made a simle Word.doc file that prints tic marks on the sides (2
> > inches apart) and top edges (3.5 inches apart) on 8.5 x 11 card
> > stock. Then print business cards using software of your choice
> > (Word, Publisher, etc.). With a razor knife and a straight edge, I
> > cut the cards out using the tic marks as a cutting guide. I can
> > send you this simple file if you email me. Regards, -- Dave C.
>
>"Anonymous, Kinda" <Anon@nymous.net> wrote:
> > Dave, Thanks for the suggestion. I can do this in Framemaker, but I
> > appreciate your offer.
>
>Dave C. wrote:
> > You're welcome -- Dave C.
>
>Hi, Dave,
>
>I think I spoke too soon. I'm having trouble envisioning where you might
>put these cut marks so that they don't actually run along the edges of the
>cut (as in cutted) cards. The only way I can see that happening is if the
>cards are not abutted. Is that how you've done it? If so, I can come up
>with a pattern of cut marks, but it allows fewer cards per sheet then
>abutted cards. The waste paper surrounding each card will also be slim,
>but that might not be a problem.
>
>If the cards *are* abutted -- say 10-up, in 2 columns of 5 -- then one
>might leave cut marks at the margins surrounding the 10-card
>aggretate. But the moment you make a cut, some of the cut pieces will
>be missing cut marks either at the starting or ending points of the
>cut.
>
>For abutted cards, I can deal with the problem of missing cut marks in
>the margins by projecting the cut marks into the 10-card aggregate
>(along the edges of the individual cards), but this creates an erratic
>shadow along the edge of each card.
>
>Thanks for letting me know. If you have the template, could you
>please send it to me at gor4ba4san@ya4hoo.ca (Remove the three 4's)?
>Thanks!
>
>P.S. According to the specs for the printer (HP PSC750), it can print
>on 110 lb paper, but it seems to smear. Probably too close to the
>ink nozzels. I tried to buy a few sheets of next lighter paper from
>the local copy shop, and it works great, but the paper is *way*
>lighter than 110 lb. Even though they said it was 90 lb, I can't see
>that -- the Avery clean-edge cards have stiffness between the 110 lb
>and "90 lb", and there is noticable difference between them. I will
>contact them to see if they might have grabbed the wrong paper.
>Everything is closed down for today and tomorrow though (Canadian
>holiday).