New Case Finished!

Well finally complete my new case. Nothing to fancy, wanted functionality this time.

Anyways my CPU and GPU temps seem to indicate it is working well. My CPU sits at about 41-42° C at idle, and 43-44° C at full load! I was impressed only a 3-4° spread in temp, between idle and full load! GPU went from about 65° C at idle, to 55° C at idle, during 3DMark it stays below 60° C, seems to hover about 58-59° C. Once again, very small spread!

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The pictures don't do the paint job justice, but it is all painted and clear coated, inside and out.

Also notice the screws, in the top? Thats the hard drives, PSU is in the front lower part of the case!

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DOOM

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Good job!

Are you overclocking? That idle temp seems a little too close to load temp. I would expect closer to 10 degrees difference. Try rolling back your clock to see if the idle temp jumps way down...

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P4C800-E Dlx, P4 3.0 @ 3.5MHz, 1024 Corsair @ 5550MB/s, 72GB WD 10,000rpm SATA as RAID-0 @ 92MB/s, Antec TruePower 480W, Zalman 7000 AlCu HSF, Arctic Silver III, FSB 233, CPUv 1.6, 3-4-3-7 PAT
 
Actually that is at stock speeds, I haven't tried overclocking yet. Going to try that later, when I get a chance.

My chip has always run really hot, which I kind of think just means the motherboard isn't reading the temps right.

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Auburn9698

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Now, maybe if you'd paint your drive faces, you might have something going.

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Yeah I know the drives look ugly. I have been hesistant to paint them though, as I switch cases and components fairly often, but the drives, stay until they die. So I haven't been real anxious to paint them, as I never know what the next case will look like. Thinking about painting the monitor, as it won't be around a whole lot longer, just so it would match the computer.

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krazynutz

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what kind of paints did you use? I'm about to paint mine and am very curious...

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RichPLS

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Spray enamel (sp) works great, dries hard, find it at hobby store, or walmart.


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I have always used just regular automotive paints, as RichPLS mentioned, enamel works fine.

Make sure you use a good clear coat, for a good finish. Don't use a cheaper clear, they normally don't give you as good of a shine.

Also make sure you either, sand off the powder coat, or use some sort of adhesion promoter. (Even if you use the adhesion promoter, you still need to sand the powder coat a little, to get the paint to stick good.) (Also you will need the adhesion promoter for the plastic)

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krazynutz

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thanks guys. I'm only interested in painting the inside of my case because the case I bought is already painted black on the outside. I found this paint that is meant for plastics and metal - no scuffing or sanding needed.

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Still do very, very thin coats at first, to make sure it sticks right. (Painted the inside of my case, without sanding). I have found it works best to sort of mist a thing coat, twice first. Then move to the normal coats. Probably be best to give it at least two layers of color, and at least two layers of clear if you want it to shine (Clear also helps protect the paint, after it fully hardens, I generally do more somewhere between 3-4 good thick layers of clear on my cases, the last case had 8-9 depending on which piece) (The case that had 8-9, the paint was basically nothing but metal flake, and needed many coats of clear to smooth it out.).

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krazynutz

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gotchya. I read a tutuorial on case painting and someone suggested using a rubbing compound on the clearcoat. Said after a couple hours and some elbow grease, he had a mirror-like finish and I gotta say, it looked goooooooood...

But I myself am already happy with the outside. I think I'll just do two layers of color and two layers of clear on the inside and be happy with the results. I just want to lose the "cheap" bare metal look inside the case.

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lb19984

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nice
I wish i had those kind of temps
Did you get tired of the clear case?

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3.2e @3.8ghz
klipsch ultra's


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Just make sure you give the paint 30 days to fully harden, before you try and rubbing compound on it. This is simliar to why they tell you not to wax or use an automatic carwash right after you have a car painted. The clear should be shiney enough, so I wouldn't worry about the rubbing compound, to much work for just the inside of the case.

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Well I was getting tired of the clear case, but really had no choice but to get rid of it, as I kind of messed it up. Was using a hole saw to cut the built in grilles out, and it snapped one of the panels when the bit got stuck in the acrylic. :frown:

Plus I always am happier with stuff I "make." Same reason I built my desk from scratch (Other of my furniture, my car, etc, pretty much all hand built by me). Just like knowing I have something different, and I can say I built that. :smile:



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krazynutz

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eh, screw the rubbing compound. Like you said - too much work for the inside. I just want to finish it at this point. But I'll take the time to make it look purty. Thanks guys.

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krazynutz

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almost done with the inside. just waiting to get my new proc. Probably could have done a better job, but it's the inside, and with all the cables and such, I just cared that it was black. I'll post pics next week when it's all done. Anybody have any suggestions for painting on acrylic?

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Mainly on the inside, I only took my time on the stuff that was really going to show through the window, everything else I didn't worry about as much.

Whats acrylic that you are painting?

For spray paint, you can use an adhesion promoter, which will help it stick, however if this acrylic is something that is going to need to bend a little, (Like those screw-less PCI things), you may want to use a special plastic paint.

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krazynutz

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I already have the special plastic paint. Hell, I've used it on the entire inside already. Good stuff. I have a big-ass acrylic window for the side with a fan near the upper left/back. I wanted a window that had a metal design that somehow surrounded the fan. I don't like the fan on bare acrylic, so I was going to paint a simple design around it and reaching the edges. This helps hide the fan wires going down from it, AND it gets rid of the hokey "floating" fan.

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This helps hide the fan wires going down from it, AND it gets rid of the hokey "floating" fan.
Yeah I got tired of trying to make my wires look neat in my clear case. With my new case I made sure I only made the window big enough to show what I wanted seen, and make sure all the wires would be hidden. As with all the crap in my computer, I really just can't make the wires neat. :frown:


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krazynutz

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yeah. I'm thinking about getting that shrink mesh that goes over wiring to keep it neat looking, as well as disassembling my PSU cables/molex connectors and untangle them. WTF was Antec thinking when they put their PSU wiring together? near the opening, it's all out of order. Their newer ones are better, thankfully.

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I always love how the first thing I do with my brand new PSU, is void the waranty by disassembling it, to hack off the wires I don't need. :frown:

Hopefully more manufacturers will move towards those PSU were the wires plug into the back of the PSU, instead of being built in.



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krazynutz

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yeah. those are sooooo nice. The case is finished and everything is installed. Only problem is, I left my camera in OH! I'll either get a friend to take some pics or wait till I get my camera. Let ya guys know when I get pics.

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krazynutz

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Yeah, I'm in Jersey now, but I grew up in Medina, OH - about 40 minutes southwest of Cleveland, and 40 minutes due west of Akron. Where you from?

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<font color=red>Cross him <i><b>off</b></i> then.