First, t33lo, this is your second PSU from OCZ. While they don't have a long, illustrious track record like some of its competitors, I sincerely doubt the second PSU was shipped damaged. Anything is possible, yes, but it is not a priority. Your priority is the circuit breaker.
Also, it is hot all over the U.S. (is that where you reside?); If you live in a humid area, it's very possible that moisture built up on some corroided voltage lines, probably just outside your home, and shorted that line. Then again, I'd imagine this would cause problems to everything on that AC line.
The circuit breaker trips when there is too much current, essentially a short circuit. When you connected the PSU, even though it's off, it's still has a resistance. Think of resistance like a measure of water flow through a fixed pipe, think of current as water, the PSU as a resistor, and the wires connecting the circuit as tunnels. The resistor, or PSU, is a fixed size pipe. The smaller the pipe (greater resistance) the less water can full through in a given time. The larger the pipe (less resistance), then more water can flow through. When a short circuit occurs, it's as if the pipe was busted wide-open, with the water flowing the tunnel at an extremely high rate. So, even if the PSU is off, it still has resistance.
Now then, since the PSU was off and the circuit breaker tripped, it's possible that the PSU tripped it IF it's damaged. However, we set that accusation aside for now. Oh, almost forgot, did you hear a clicking noise from the PSU when you connected it to the AC outlet? If you did, it must've protected itself and your mobo (btw, if you installed one graphics card in your mobo, then it's NOT running in SLi mode).
Here's what you should do: take out all but the most critical components to run the system - all that should remain are one stick of RAM, the PSU, the mobo, the proc w/HSF, no case fans (leave the case open; we're just looking for the system to initialize successfully), video card (if possible, use a less powerful, alternative discrete graphics card or on-bard graphics if one is available and can be enabled at this stage of troubleshooting), the monitor, and the keyboard. Plug the cable into the PSU, then turn it on.
If it clicks at this point, that means the PSU was fed too much current or voltage (I believe you said it has both) and protected the system components. These protection mechanisms ONLY work on the DC side, not the AC line. If the circuit breaker tripped, as well, the PSU was fed too much AC current - basically a short circuit - and the PSU kicked in DC overcurrent protection. Again, this applies if you heard a click when it's ON.
If you repeat this step, but leave the PSU toggle switch to OFF and you hear a click, then you know the circuit breaker has tripped and the PSU is NOT causing the problem - the sudden surge of current off of your AC line is beginning at some other node, or device. [Edit: I apologize. What I should've said is if the PSU does click while it's OFF, then the PSU is either shorted or there is an overwhelming amount of current such that the open circuit of the PSU is closed.] If the PSU doesn't click, that's fine too. This just means that the circuit breaker tripped before the current had a chance to reach the PSU.
Here's what you do now. Find out what is feeding off the AC line, the same one connected to the PSU, and disconnect every single device that you can, especially the ones that need a wealth of power. Ideally, the AC line should be clean. Or, no devices should be on that line. Connect the PSU to the outlet and set it to OFF. Check if the circuit breaker tripped. If it didn't, turn on the PSU and check again. If all is fine, you know something else is causing the short circuit. If it shorts when it's OFF, the wiring inside your walls needs examination. If it shorts when it's ON, then it could be either the wiring (check the outlet) or the PSU.
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by poly4life on 08/04/05 04:17 AM.</EM></FONT></P>