copper shim installation and 1.2ghz

OK, at this point in time, after lots of research and e-mails, I'm pretty much stumped as to the proper method to install a copper shim on a T-bird so that you won't fry your proc. I bought my copper shim from, the dts-400, so thankfully I won't have to remove my rubber pads, however, its such a tight fit on the proc that I'm not sure if the copper shim touching any of the metalic (looking) parts sticking out around the Die would be bad. I can get the shim to just barely not touch anything but the ceramic portion of the proc, however, I'd have to apply a thin layer of the artic silver adhesive all around the edges of the proc so that the copper shim stays in place while I mount the heatsink. So, essentially, is it bad for the copper shim to touch anything else besides any of the bridges on the proc? or will nothing happen if the shim touches 2 of the metallic parts (essentially connecting them if electricity flows through them, which I'm unsure of). Thanks in Advance
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  1. Hi there,

    You really don't want anything touching ANYTHING except for the die in the center of your processor. That is where ALL the heat is transferred from your processor to your heatsink. That is also why the little foam-rubber pads are on your processor. It's best (if possible) to install your heatsink/shim setup on your motherboard BEFORE you mount the board in your case. This way you can really get a good look at how your sink is mating with your processor's die. In most cases, it will require some force to install the sink's clip onto your socket. This compresses the little rubber pads on the processor, and if all goes good, your sink will mate perfectly with the top of the processor's die.
    It depends alot on what heatsink you are using too. Most of the ones that I have seen have one clip in the center of the sink that attaches to the center "ear" on both sides of your socket. You'll need a tight fit, and after installing your sink, if you get too much play or the sink rocks easily back and forth, you might have to re-tension the clip to hold the sink on tighter. But try to avoid having ANYTHING that could shift hanging out over the die except for your heatsink/fan unit.
    I hope this helps ya.
  2. you could also (and I would recommend) get something like dielectric grease or conformal coating (maybe even nail polish) to coat EVERYTHING BUT the core. this will protect from shorts but still provide for a good level mounting of the HSF or waterblock and decent heat transfer.

    Even though I'm a stranger, at least my average post is intelligent!
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