Well,
here it is:
MOBO MSI K7TPro2 (allows multiplier change by bios setting)
CPU - Duron 650 (RED coloured, not Green)
Heat-Sink/Fan - TITAN Magesty V (Like the Thermaltek Chrome Orb)
Thermal paste (generic for electronics use). I've erased the thermal tape that came with the Heat-Sink/Fan.
300W PSU (a cheap one) with +5Vsb@1.5A and combined power between +5V and +3,3V of 130W (150 would be better!)
Hard disk IBM 30G 7200rpm
CDRW Yamaha 8x8x24
128Mbytes RAM 133Mhz CAS2
Graphics Card RIVA TNT (I must upgrade this one!)
V90 Diamond Modem
PCI Firewire Card (Conceptronics)
No case fans
It works fine with a max temp of 45 degrees celsius (wich is great)
How did i do it? Well, first i tried two diferent processors, the 650 and a 700. The 700 coul hit only 800Mhz stable. It had a green shine on the die. Those green ones are not very good for OC. Then i tryed the 650 with a Red shine. To close the L1 bridges, i first tryed the pencil trick and it worked for about 4 weeks. Then it started rebooting at strange frequencies. The pencil trick is not long term stable. Now it is working with conductive ink.
If you decide to increase the FSB as well as increasing the multiplier, start by setting the RAM speed to 100Mhz (not 133) because the RAM may not accept the extra Mhz. Later, when you are sure your system is rock stable, try to set the RAM speed to 133 and see if it holds. If not, try setting the CAS latency from 2 to 3. This is important. I had a DIM module that could only hit 136Mhz and not 140 as i am now running them (133Mhz + 7Mhz, remember the 107*8.5)
Good luck
Be careful inserting the heat-sink on the processor. It takes a lot of strenght to lock the heat sink. The processor die is very fragile.
OC is nice but risky!