Multiplier bridges on Duron

[ksoth]

I've got a Duron 700 (7x100). I, of course, want to overclock but am stuck at 750 (7x107), but I want to go higher. Now, I have a mobo that does not support multiplier adjustment, the MSI K7T Pro. Now, a recent BIOS revision gives this mobo support for 133 mHz FSB processers, so that's what I want to do. Now, my chip cant handle 7x133 at 931 mHz, as it just resets to 100 mHz. So, what I want to do is change the multiplier physically to 6.5 and then set FSB to 133 for an 865 mHz processer, which would be sweet. But, if that doesn't work I would want to just set the bridges to 900 or 850, or whatever works. 900 would be easy because I would only have to cut 2 bridges and join 1. Easy enough. So, anyways, I am wondering if anyone has a good technique for cutting the bridges. Now, I tried a heavy duty utility blade knife, but that didn't seem to do it. It looks like it did, but the system still booted up at 7x multiplier. Now, one more question. I did the pencil trick to join one of the bridges, but that didn't seem to do anything. Does it have to be a special pencil, cuz all i had lying around was a construction pencil, which is grafite, so I think that should work, ya? So, will I also need to make sure all the L1 bridges are joined to do this? I am not sure if they are or not... I really do not want to mess with the chip too much because getting the ThermalTake heatsink on IS THE BIGGEST BITCH ON THE PLANET! Plus, I hear grinding when I do it so it probably isn't too good on the processer. So, any help or theories on how to cut the bridges would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[JOJO]

if the board is using the kt133 chipset, it won't do the 133 fsb.

Only the via kt133a chipset does.

 

[ksoth]

Why does MSI specifically say it gives support for 133 mHz FSB processors then?

 

[JOJO]

maybe they are refering to their new boards with the kt133a chipset.

which chipset is on your board?

 

[ksoth]

No, they weren't. I have the MSI K7T Pro with Via KT133 chipset. Look at the following link. It is the page for this specific motherboard BIOS upgrades.

http://www.msi.com.tw/support/bios/mainboard/6xxx/6330/6330.htm

Look at BIOS 1.7 release, it says:

"1. This is the AWARD(R) BIOS version 1.7 release.
2. This BIOS fixes the following problems of the previous version:
-Support AMD K7 FSB 133MHz CPU.
-Support Promise U100 PCI card."

In the BIOS, it gives FSB adjustments, it has a 100 core/33 PCI clk, and a 133/33, as well as like 110/39, etc. So, the BIOS release allows for a FSB clock increase while keeping th PCI clock at a stable 33 mHz, what it is supposed to be.

 

[JOJO]

it doesn't matter what you can do in the bios, the actual via kt133 chipset can't do fsb 133, that's why they released the kt133a.

 

[TheSandman]

Hey the ms 6330 line contains motherboards based on both the kt133 and the kt133a so they are refering to the kt133a boards unless they have fuquered a way out to make the kt133 stable past 115 through the bios which I dont think is the case.

SANDMAN

 

[ksoth]

If that is the case, then MSI would have to use the same BIOS for all it's products? But, the BIOS in the K7T Turbo that uses the KT133A chipset isn't the same, as it offers multiplier adjustments... Same with the K7T Pro motherboards... Why would they put a feature into the BIOS that doesn't work and is completely useless? Being that the K7T turbo is made for 133 FSB processers, there would be no need to have a BIOS that adds support for it, as it is native to that motherboard. I really think that 133 FSB is attainable on the older KT133 chipset motherboards from MSI, as it keeps the PCI clock at the specified 33 mHz, just as it was at 100 mHz FSB. Is it common practice in motherboard manufactures to allow features that simply don't work???

 

[TheSandman]

Then how do you explain that every mobo with the kt133 chipset is incapable of going to 133 that IS WHY THEY MADE THE 133A.

SANDMAN

 

[ksoth]

Dude, I don't know. All I know is the website says my motherboard now has 133 mHz FSB support and the BIOS lets me select 133 mHz as a FSB speed...

 

[Guest]

Here's how I cut my bridges. I took my cpu to a jewelry store and had a guy there cut them. He used a special circular saw. It worked but I found it a tremendous pain in the ass getting it to work afterwards. One problem with the jewelry store cut was that it tended to grind the studs for the bridge down to the level of the ceramic base. This was especially prevelent with the ones he did earlier in the process because he was getting the hang of it. If you want to try this you'll have to find a jewelry store that does modifications/engraving/cutting in house. 95% of them send it out to someone else.

To reconnect the bridges you want to use a conductive pen, NOT a pencil. Pencil graphite stops working after a while. If you write something in pencil and look at it months later you'll see that it's faded much. I found using the conductive pen a pain because I couldn't do it very accurately. What you need to do is use masking tape (I used painter masking tape) and mask each bridge in. Then you paint on a thick coating of conductive "ink." Wait for it to dry and do another. Unfortunately some of the "ink" comes off when tape is placed over it so you may have to do a quick non-masked reapplication. If you screw up with the solder (ink), wait for it to dry. (this is assuming it's touching a resistor or another bridge) Then scrape what you can off. Unfortunately in most cases you probably won't get it all off. Take some varsol with a klenex or something and wipe it off. Don't be stingy, it doesn't hurt the processor (at least in my caes) and you'll need a fair amount to remove it.

As for the heatsink being hard to remove, you'll probably have to remove it a few times before you get the bridges to work. I've probably done it 20x! I've got the technique down pretty well now, so if you follow my steps you can probably do it in a few. I can't remember how the thermaltake clip works, but with my FOP32 (which is also known for being a real bitch) I use a pair of plyers to get it on/off. Now that I've done it so many times the clip isn't nearly as strong as it once was and I don't need the plyers. Make sure your heatsink is flush on the core when you put the clamp on. If it's not you could damage the core.

As for the 133mhz FSB, the KT133 doesn't work with it but many MBs have the "option." My FIC AZ11 being one example. I don't know why they bothered to enclude it. In fact my manual even says something to the effect of "don't use this option, it doesn't work."