peteb

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Hi,

Went shopping yesterday and bought me a T-Bird 1333/266.

Looks like (as everyone said) they're all shipping unlocked - see photo

http://www.photoloft.com/view/Image.asp?u=1242520&s=jasc&frames=&nonav=&is=&a=999978&i=6598642&ViewerSize=3&image6.x=30&image6.y=7

Now - as I'm new to the Athlon world - I bought a Swiftech 370-D (claims to be good for Atlon up to 1.5Ghz) as it was the bets available. I have thermal compound as well.

As I look at the photo/cpu - I want to clean that blue gunk off *very* carefully from the die and apply a fine, even layer of thermal compound after wiping both the HSF contact area and CPU die with alcohol - right? I know I need to be careful with the HSF anyway as it is large enough to crunch my new chip easily.

Any other tips? I've seen lots of pics with people removing the support feet and using copper shims between the ceramic and the rest of the HSF to aid heat dissipation. Is this a serious o/c requirement only, and does it reall help? It seems to me like it might help a little, but possibly be more hassle that it is worth.

Regards,

Pete.

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Grizely1

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blue gunk? you mean the stuff that is kind of like glue? I wouldn't take that off. I mean, it won't make a difference but i wouldn't take the chances of something going wrong... (with all that's happened to me LOL).

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TheAntipop

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that picture that you link to doesnt show the L1 bridges, so are you sure they are all connected, i.e. unlocked? is there another picture you have?
also on a related note, does anyone know if a tbird 1300 with the 200mhz fsb can run on the old a7v? im thinkin of upgrading a while down the road and would like to be able to keep the motherboard that has treated me so well

My name is Mud.
 

peteb

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Hi,

Well in that case I'm glad I posted... I had (obviously incorrectly) assumed that the larger black 'things' were the bridges that get 'cut' by AMD to lock the speed.

I will now guess that the 'gold' coloured points on the outside of those are actually the bridges?

http://www.photoloft.com/view/Image.asp?s=jasc&u=1242520&a=999978&i=6600034

In which case - am I locked or unlocked???

Thanks for your help.

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Grizely1

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those little gold things are the bridges, yes. the picture doesn't show the L1 bridges good enough (top right corner) to be able to tell if you're locked or not.

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"648kb is all the space anyone will ever need!"

Bill Gates, 1980s
 

peteb

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Okay - so I take 0 points and go to the bottom of the class!

Hey - at least I was bright enough to ask. Now I did some more research...

Right - I tried taking better photos - and decided I'd better stick to my day job.

All of the L1 bridges are closed. Please anyone correct me if my research is wrong (I'm new at this so it may well be) on the bridge use interpretation.

L1 = .|||| (motherboard multiplier clocking ok?)
L2 = .:| (???)
L3 = .|::| (10x multiplier?)
L4 = .:::| (10x multiplier?)
L5 = :. (???)
L6 = .|::: (10x multiplier)
L7 = .||::| (1.550V?)

Working through what I can. Does this seem right? I extrapolated the multiplier from the '1000mhz' setting on the THG AMD overclocking summary as it was written pre 133/266FSB and I presume meant run at 1000mhz on 100mhz FSB = 10x multiplier.

Pete.


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TheAntipop

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yea, though im wondering if you can go any higher, you may be able to get to an 11x multiplier if youre VERY lucky. higher than that will most likely require a voltage mod and water cooler.

My name is Mud.
 

peteb

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Hey!

It cleared POST first time! Okay - not much of an achievement but....

Right - she is a swift one.

I just installed base win2k and got her up to 1552 Mhz (11.5@135@1.8V) - Sandra gave me results like I didn't believe.

It is not 100% stable at 1552 yet. Balances around 44-48 degrees aircooled. I just go the Via drivers, new bios, SP1 and next for win updates and then I'll try again and see if she's more stable!

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TheAntipop

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jeez, thats cool for that fast of a processor. i have a fop32-1 on my tbird 800@950 and its stable around 48, 50 after some strenuous activity. well i just ordered some artic silver 2 so i hope i can lower myself into the low-mid 40s after i put that stuff on.

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peteb

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Well, I have to admit I still need to calibrate.

I have a Swiftech 370-D with the aircraft jet engine delta fan on it. This is in a Coolermaster ATC201 chassis.

When I say calibrate - I believe my Asus Probe is reporting 10 degrees over actual.

I'll run at 54-56 degrees according to Asus, but then Sandra and BIOS reckon ~ 10 degrees cooler. I prefer to think they are right. Also this seems more in line since the THG review stated a properly attached 370 should run a 1GHz at 35 degrees.

Damn that 370s noisy though. I can't wait to get a noisecontrol silverado.

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peteb

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Oh yeah, if you are interested a bare 2k OS only and bios 1001C gave me the following results in Sandra:

Base - 1333=133x10
-----------------
CPU
Dhry = 3750
Whet = 1830

MM-CPU
Integer = 7544
Float = 8313

Mem
Int ALU = 517MBs
Float = 575MBs

Uprated 1552=135x11.5@1.8V
-----------------------------
CPU
Dhry = 4346 (+16%)
Whet = 2126 (+16%)

MM-CPU
Integer = 8761 (+16%)
Float = 9652 (+16%)

Mem
Int ALU = 524MBs (+1.4%)
Float = 580MBs (+1%)

Don't seem to be able to push the FSB up as much as a PIII (my 733 will run at 148FSB very stable) but I'll try with new drivers and bios, and maybe swap some RAM around.

Pete.

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peteb

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If you live in Europe, US or Aus then you can order via PayPal from www.noisecontrol.de

If you don't - you are in trouble. Me - I need to find a way to get one to Japan... ;o(

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peteb

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Actually no.

I'm aircooling and with seti running for 24H and my settings at 11x, 142FSB, 1.85V (1.56Ghz) my max CPU temp is 49 degrees.

Whilst I'd like this lower - it seems pretty stable and I think I'll leave it alone until I can get my mitts on a silverado.

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