Sound Proofing Cases

Ok- so you have a FOP-38 or swiftech and you're tired of the noise so here's a thought
All the dynamat sheets are self adhesive paper thin sheets you can stick on the inside of your computer case that absorb any sound caused by vibration or movement. ie- fans moving and air noise. It absorbs the sound and turns it into heat- which at first may seem bad, but then as little noise as a computer makes- and these are made to absorb road noise and subwoofer vibrations- the amount of heat produced should be almost none. Also I guess you could probly stick the stuff on the outside of the case for the same effect, may look funny but would keep all the heat out side.

Let me know what you all think

My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
30 answers Last reply
More about sound proofing cases
  1. I have already made that suggestion before. The key thing to remember is that only PART of the apnel needs to be covered. ON a computer case I would suggest putting a patch about 1/4 to 2/3 the size of the panel on it right in the middle to absorb vibrations, while allowing enough exposed metal to conduct heat.

    Cast not thine pearls before the swine
  2. So what about putting it on the outside of the case? Would that also work, it would cool off better then too.

    My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
  3. Yes, but the reflected noise could still come out somewhere else. By putting it on the inside it serves TWO purposes, abosorb noise and dampen the panel, wheras on the outside it only dampens the panel. And it looks better on the inside.

    Cast not thine pearls before the swine
  4. What kind of sound proofing is possible with out buying some pads. I mean using your standard household items.

    Do those pads really work?

    <b><font color=red><^></font color=red></b>
  5. Those mats should work. You could also try some kind of dense rubber mat and attach it with rubber cement or something.

    Cast not thine pearls before the swine
  6. Specifically you are looking for something with the following properties - I think...

    High density - must be relatively heavy to dampen and absorb sound energy.

    Pourus - many air to subtance interfaces are like shutting many doors in your home. The more layers or bubbles, the better the insulation to sound will be.

    Non-rigid. Should be flexible and elastic to prevent transmission of vibration through the material itself.

    Carpet underlay, towels, blankets, neoprene rubber, etc. etc.


    -* This Space For Rent *-
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  7. The main idea behind dynamat is simplly adding weight to any object increases it's noise dampening. If you don't want to spring for dynamat, anything that adds weight will have a similar effect. Including something as crude as glueing a piece of steel or lead to the side of the case. If you've ever held the stuff, you wouldn't believe how heavy it is. I'm sure the pad it's made out of does have some insulating qualities also, but the dampening is strictly from the weight of it. I have been pretty heavily into car audio in the past, the stuff really works. But damn, it's expensive!

    "I've been called worse by better people. You can do better..."
  8. How much is it?

    I was thinking would bubble rap work to insalate a case?

    <b><font color=red><^></font color=red></b>
  9. Too light on it's own.

    Ideally you would have full mechanical isolation of all moving parts from a solid external surface - there can be no sound transmitted. If you completely wrapped your case in bubblewrap, then neoprene rubber as a shell, you'd have a very odd, hot, quiet case. air holes and baffles might help the heat issue though.

    -* This Space For Rent *-
    email for application details
  10. If you wanting to do it cheap (but just as well as expensive), that's the way to go. And when you tack on on the surfaces with rubber cement or liquid nails, be sure to put 40 or 50 pounds of books on top, evenly spreading out the weight.

    Engineering rules......
  11. Dynamat is ok for low frequency noise (like the rumble of a car engine, or big rocks hitting each other) but for the high pitch squeal of harddrives and fans what you really want to use is accoustic foam tiling. will give you a general idea, its the same stuff they line the walls on movie theaters and studios with.
  12. How well does it really work?

    <font color=green>I can draw tyte give me the damn crayon!</font color=green>
  13. Well, I can just say it works. Its noticably quieter when using foam (especially when lining the hard drive cage) It is also worth it to spend a few bucks to get a 3 1/2 to 5 1/4 inch mount bracket. It reduces noise and vibration a lot and it leaves plenty of room to stuff foam around it (use rubber washers on the mouting screws for even more noise and vibration supression)

    I just use the leftover foam from packaging (the squishy "cube" type, not styrofoam) Its so quiet that sometimes the only way I know the computer is on is when the leds are lit ;) A small 1 inch round piece of dynamat works great if you stick it on the "non moving" part of fans, that is the only place where I would put Dynamat (its soo expensive)
  14. does non-moving= the center of the fan?? THis is what I was looking for- interesting ideas here.

    My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
  15. Well have you checked the prices for "Cutting Wedge" ITS OVER $100!!!

    I cant offord that. I wanted something for $20 or less

    <font color=green>I can draw tyte give me the damn crayon!</font color=green>
  16. Yup, you got it. Just cut out a small circle and plop it on top of the center of the fan (usually on top of a sticker with the specifications of said fan) Doesn't impede airflow at all, and muffles the sound of the fan spindle quite a bit. A tiny "sample" 1 square foot piece of dynamat should be able to do dozens of fans...
  17. Don't buy that stuff, its just for reference ;) If you have bought any electronic equipment, cut up the anti-static foam that they pack it with (Important, do not use styrofoam as it may conduct static electricity) Many types of packing foam and acoustic foam have almost the same sound absorbing properties, best of all its free. Either that or try home depot and ask for a single sheet of Sonexmini, it should be <$20 for 8 square feet (8 square feet will probably do two ATX cases, mini is the thinnest of accoustic rated foams, 1 inch thick)
  18. Quote:
    A tiny "sample" 1 square foot piece of dynamat should be able to do dozens of fans...

    What do you mean be sample?

    <font color=green>I can draw tyte give me the damn crayon!</font color=green>
  19. The "sample" is just what is known as the 10 inch by 10 inch size that they sell the original dynamat in. Its small enough to be relatively inexpensive. Done dozens of fans, and I still have some material left over yet ;)

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by ZenOps on 05/29/01 11:13 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
  20. I didnt see the price on that page... how much is it for a 10' by 10' piece?

    <font color=green>I can draw tyte give me the damn crayon!</font color=green>
  21. I figure if you're that worried about noise, all you need to do is close up the case, stick it under your desk and put yer damn headphones on!!!

    I usually only notice my fans (taisol stock, and 2 superorb fans which i stole outta my old orb, about 18000RPM in total, plus the power fan) when i am sleeping but then i just doze off coz it's... humming... hehe... weird.

    But yeah i do agree with the whole dampening idea. It sounds good in theory but once one you of you guys has actually spent the time to line their case with some soundproofing stuff and is willing to show us, i will be the first to find you some webspace to post it on k?

    <b><font color=blue>Who needs drugs when you got <font color=black><i>BasS?</i></font color=black></font color=blue></b>
  22. I don't know where to get a 10' by 10' priece of Dynamat, but I did see at that they sell 4 sq. ft. for $40. The link is I have been thinking about buying some to try out, but now I will look into the acoustic foam recommendation.
  23. I mounted closed cell neoprene rubber inside my side panels
    using rtv silicone rubber (non corrosive type), and then placed 2" think foam on top of that.

    The neoprene is heavy and stops the vibration from my side panels. And the foam absorbs the
    air noises.

    Then I added the foam to the inside on the top, bottom, and behind the 5-1/4" blank panels, and then cut out foam to plug all the gaps on the left side between the M/B and
    H/D bays.

    If you have broadband, come check it's REALLY quiet now. If you have dialup it will take a while to load the images. Make sure you see the pink foam the I put on's really striking.

    I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by bud on 06/13/01 02:49 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
  24. I haven't tried it (I dont mind the sound) but parts express ( sells 10x10" sheets with peel off adhesive for $1.25 each. I don't know how different they are than kitchen floor tiles though...

    I know everything and this is just an infinitesimal part of it...
  25. Of course, its best if you do not create the noise in the first place.

    Most fans come with a little plastic cover underneath the label that protects the fan spindle. It will open up to allow you to lubricate the fan. I use a half drop (on 60mm or smaller) or full drop (80 mm or bigger) of high quality 3 in 1 lubricant. The best stuff has teflon as the main ingredient, avoid oil based lubricants because they can get in to the workings of the fan and burn up. This can be dangerous, I have not tested long term effects of adding lubricant, use this tweak at your own risk...

    The stuff I use is called Tri-Flow, I originally bought it for bicycle chain lubrication. I think it contains a decent amount of metal cleaning fluid (to get rid of mud) and even though it is not meant for high speed applications like computer fans, it works wonders ;)
  26. A few thoughts....
    Dampening materials such as the ones mentioned, should work to an extent, but a high quality fan is normally well balanced and vibration isnt too much of an issue in this case, however cheaper fans usually vibrate more which is where dampening would be useful, however a lot of the noise is the sound of the air being blown, no amount of dampening will stop this, of course as mentioned, totally insulating the case will reduce the amount of noise that "escapes", but I would ensure theres still enough airflow in the case if you were to choose this method. I HATE the noise my pc makes which is why Im going watercooled in the very near future.

    Next time you wave - use all your fingers
  27. Yeah I used to like the noise, but no not so much. So I got dynamat extreme and it does help a good deal, especially the stuff on the case, but it's not silent or anything. Also a circle of it on the bottom of the fan did seems to help a bit as well. I'm not done putting it all over my case yet. So far though it has had NO effect of the overall temp of my chip or system.

    My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
  28. All right, all of these ideas look like they are mainly for fans, and stopping the sound from hard drives, Cds, etc. from getting out of the case. If there was any sound from the components rattling, would it be feasible to place small rubber washers or maybe small O-rings between the mounting screws and the case? Just a thought, I don't know how much noise this would eliminate, but I have been thinking aobut trying it.
  29. really can't hurt to try. Let me know if it helps any. I'm interested.

    My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
  30. Small update- the dynamat extreme put on my case sucks up the high pitched "whine" of the fop38 fan (delta fan). With this stuff it makes as much noise as a fop32/volcanoII etc... and cools much better.

    My Jesus is whiter than your Jesus.
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