I am on the verge of buying one for the $30 discounted price at ocz.safeshopper.com because 1) Swiftech MC462 is just too much! and 2) don't feel like ordering something from Germany. I read some positive comments here about a month ago, so is the OCZ still working out for you guys, and are you using the stock fan? Or can anyone recommend a fourth choice? (under $50, please! If I see any more $80 hsf's I may go over the edge and attempt water cooling)
OCZ Gladiator still good?
- Thread starter Guest
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Blue Screen CPUs
SerArthurDayne
Distinguished
- Jan 21, 2001
- 344
- 0
- 18,780
From what I've read, the Gladiator performs pretty durn well for its price, and is at least on par with GlobalWin stuff. You're still gonna need a noisy delta black label to get the best performance out of it though... and the noisy delta and case fans are the reasons why I've been in the slow process of converting to watercooling.
So I say, go over the edge and get a watercooling setup! You'll be able to reuse it in different computers and get better cooling performance with fewer decibels to drive you deaf.
For example, you can buy all the parts you need piecemeal or in kits from Becooling, at becooling.safeshopper.com for under 100 bucks. And that's with a copper waterblock.
If you're one of those brave souls who can make your own waterblock (not all that difficult a process), you can shave 30 bucks off that price.
So I say, go over the edge and get a watercooling setup! You'll be able to reuse it in different computers and get better cooling performance with fewer decibels to drive you deaf.
For example, you can buy all the parts you need piecemeal or in kits from Becooling, at becooling.safeshopper.com for under 100 bucks. And that's with a copper waterblock.
If you're one of those brave souls who can make your own waterblock (not all that difficult a process), you can shave 30 bucks off that price.
Thanks for the link. That copper jacket AquaStealth is tempting, though cutting up my case is not an option at present. But who knows, a 7000 rpm fan might ultimately drive me to do it...
Ok I just got my Gladiator and here are my first impressions.
The OC store forgot to include my Quicksilver thermal paste ( 3 Grams ), I will email them today and see what happens. The Gladiator bottom could definitely use some lapping. But I didn’t feel like it so I just installed it. Since they forgot my quicksilver I just used the pad. So factor that into my results. I also installed my YS fan that run at 4000 rpm and is pretty quiet. The last thing I did was to relocate my temp probe right next to the CPU core taped and a little thermal paste to insure a good reading. Before I had the thermal probe mounted on the heatsink next to the CPU core.
The results? My temps are a little higher then before but my system is still stable at 1 gig (900 stock). Since I moved the temp probe and am not using my delta it’s hard to say if it’s performing better then my FOP38.
It seems to me the only way to get temps much below 50c is water cooling which is what I should have just went with. O-well, maybe in the future.
Thx & Cya
<font color=red>There are only 2 types of hard drives. Ones that have crashed and ones that are about to.</font color=red>
The OC store forgot to include my Quicksilver thermal paste ( 3 Grams ), I will email them today and see what happens. The Gladiator bottom could definitely use some lapping. But I didn’t feel like it so I just installed it. Since they forgot my quicksilver I just used the pad. So factor that into my results. I also installed my YS fan that run at 4000 rpm and is pretty quiet. The last thing I did was to relocate my temp probe right next to the CPU core taped and a little thermal paste to insure a good reading. Before I had the thermal probe mounted on the heatsink next to the CPU core.
The results? My temps are a little higher then before but my system is still stable at 1 gig (900 stock). Since I moved the temp probe and am not using my delta it’s hard to say if it’s performing better then my FOP38.
It seems to me the only way to get temps much below 50c is water cooling which is what I should have just went with. O-well, maybe in the future.
Thx & Cya
<font color=red>There are only 2 types of hard drives. Ones that have crashed and ones that are about to.</font color=red>
Hmmm.. do you know what the CFM is for that Y.S. fan? I am drawing ever closer to buying the Gladiator but still trying to find an appropriate fan, reasonably close to the 38CFM of the notorious Delta but of course as quiet as I can get it.
I can tell you it’s nowhere near the same CFM as the delta. I think it’s in the low 20s but it is very quiet. I think noise is in direct relation to RPM and my YS only runs at 3924rpm to be exact. Just get a fan that’s around 4000 rpm and it will be relatively quiet. I think I will install the Delta later tonight and see how much my temp drops. Right now my computer is reading 65/149. That’s way to hot for my comfort but I think my system has been running that hot all the time. It’s just now that I moved the temp probe so it’s touching the core with some thermal paste, it’s getting an accurate reading. I had this cool master heatsink and my computer would not even post half the time, crash within minuets but my temp readings were in the high 40s C. So I know my CPU is cooler then that now because my system is rock stable right now. It was how I had mounted the thermal probe that was causing the low temp readings. I think most people with A7V’s are not getting accurate readings. I also have good ventilation in my case so this high temp reading is really bugging me. I guess it’s better to know the true high reading then falsely believe that my CPU is nice and cool.
After my experiences trying different heatsinks I would suggest going with water cooling. The Coollance case looks very cool, Put a dangerdam water block and an exhaust fan and you would have your self one Overclocking bas ass mofo.
Thx & Cya
<font color=red>There are only 2 types of hard drives. Ones that have crashed and ones that are about to.</font color=red>
After my experiences trying different heatsinks I would suggest going with water cooling. The Coollance case looks very cool, Put a dangerdam water block and an exhaust fan and you would have your self one Overclocking bas ass mofo.
Thx & Cya
<font color=red>There are only 2 types of hard drives. Ones that have crashed and ones that are about to.</font color=red>
The day I receive my Gladiator, I find a new "silver-clad" version at the OCZ store for $10 more. No way I'm gonna eat the shipping charge from the first time so I can return it, though...
I am still experimenting with the hsf and will post my results later!
I am still experimenting with the hsf and will post my results later!
There was a real long thread on why CPU temps are not accurate. Unless you using a high quality thermal censor I would question you’re reading. Also the thermal diode on the mobo (and CPU’s) are notoriously inaccurate. My A7V has a temp probe and depending where I mount is makes huge differences. I’m talking minute changes in the location of it.
I do agree people can get well below 50C with air cooling but I think a lot of people CPU’s are running hotter then they think.
Thx & Cya
<font color=green>I may go to hell but at least I won't get lonely</font color=green>
I do agree people can get well below 50C with air cooling but I think a lot of people CPU’s are running hotter then they think.
Thx & Cya
<font color=green>I may go to hell but at least I won't get lonely</font color=green>
It is funny you say that because i just recieved a Senfu
Digital probe that you slot into the gap between the hsf
and the chip (next to the slug) and the reading is at the moment 31.4c .My asus a7v 133a reports 50c . the actual
spacing of the probes is the same , 1 at the bottom and 1 at the top.Take a pick !!
" overclocking = better value "
Digital probe that you slot into the gap between the hsf
and the chip (next to the slug) and the reading is at the moment 31.4c .My asus a7v 133a reports 50c . the actual
spacing of the probes is the same , 1 at the bottom and 1 at the top.Take a pick !!
" overclocking = better value "
Well, I can't warrant the accuracy of my temps... I mean, I use the built-in thermosistor on my KT7A with VIA Hardware Monitor, so I know I'm asking for it... but at least I can compare my previous inaccurate readings to my new inaccurate readings...
Old:
AMD's retail hsf, which is an aluminum deal plus a Delta EFB0512HA -- 50mm, 5500rpm, 11.3cfm, 30 dba
by default, mounted for intake
New:
"OCZ Gladiator w/DELTA FAN"
I gather this fan is the same as the "black label":
Delta AFB0612EH -- 60mm, 6800rpm, 38cfm, 46.5 dba
came mounted in the intake position
Bought from the OCZ Store along with a copper spacer which had the cutouts all wrong, so I've got to return that now. It took me a few tries to figure out the clip on this thing. The fan is noisy indeed, I'm either gonna get a rheostat or failing that, a quieter 60mm fan.
Both heatsinks were tested under similar conditions (ambient temp, cpu load, multiplier, etc). A retail Duron 800 running at 1000/133. CPU seems to top out ~1050 above which Windows crashes immediately. Same Arctic Silver II thermal paste. Same midtower case with minimal airflow--just the weakly P/S exhaust and an Antec 80mm exhaust fan. I guess you could count the really tiny intake fan on the VIA northbridge, too, with its very suspect steel heatsink--my next project. FSBs more than +2 above 133 are possible but not as stable as I'd like. Either I need new RAM (current is Kingmax PC133) or gotta work on the northbridge.
I didn't realize the thermal compound made such a big difference, but it apparently affects my cpu temps by 6-7 degrees. The Gladiator came with some yellow gunk on it, which I didn't like but the guy at Overclockerz assured me it comes off easy with nail polish remover. First I tried using the heatsink with pre-installed gunk--my load temps with the old hsf were 51-54, now they were 46-49. Not too impressive. So I used some adhesive remover from the hardware store and sort of polished the yellow stuff out with an alcohol swab. Applied the Arctic Silver, and now my load temps are around 40-42.
So, bottom line is that I got a rough 10C drop in CPU temp with using the Gladiator instead of the stock hsf. I'm not sure whether this is mostly due to the Delta fan or the OCZ heatsink, but my money's on the fan, cuz my system temp in VIAHM is a couple degrees lower now, too. I'm noticing that the OCZ copper heatsink isn't nearly as hot to the touch as my old aluminum was under full load; I guess that could be due to the Delta fan as well. But it's also likely that the OCZ is just not the best copper heatsink out there. The finish on the bottom didn't wow me. It'll be all right for my Duron but my next rig is gonna be water-cooled.
I do have that Delta plugged into a 3pin fan header, which my KT7A seems to be handling fine (though there's only 1 other serious fan connected to the mainboard). I think I will get a 3-to-4pin adapter, however, once I address the rheostat issue.
Old:
AMD's retail hsf, which is an aluminum deal plus a Delta EFB0512HA -- 50mm, 5500rpm, 11.3cfm, 30 dba
by default, mounted for intake
New:
"OCZ Gladiator w/DELTA FAN"
I gather this fan is the same as the "black label":
Delta AFB0612EH -- 60mm, 6800rpm, 38cfm, 46.5 dba
came mounted in the intake position
Bought from the OCZ Store along with a copper spacer which had the cutouts all wrong, so I've got to return that now. It took me a few tries to figure out the clip on this thing. The fan is noisy indeed, I'm either gonna get a rheostat or failing that, a quieter 60mm fan.
Both heatsinks were tested under similar conditions (ambient temp, cpu load, multiplier, etc). A retail Duron 800 running at 1000/133. CPU seems to top out ~1050 above which Windows crashes immediately. Same Arctic Silver II thermal paste. Same midtower case with minimal airflow--just the weakly P/S exhaust and an Antec 80mm exhaust fan. I guess you could count the really tiny intake fan on the VIA northbridge, too, with its very suspect steel heatsink--my next project. FSBs more than +2 above 133 are possible but not as stable as I'd like. Either I need new RAM (current is Kingmax PC133) or gotta work on the northbridge.
I didn't realize the thermal compound made such a big difference, but it apparently affects my cpu temps by 6-7 degrees. The Gladiator came with some yellow gunk on it, which I didn't like but the guy at Overclockerz assured me it comes off easy with nail polish remover. First I tried using the heatsink with pre-installed gunk--my load temps with the old hsf were 51-54, now they were 46-49. Not too impressive. So I used some adhesive remover from the hardware store and sort of polished the yellow stuff out with an alcohol swab. Applied the Arctic Silver, and now my load temps are around 40-42.
So, bottom line is that I got a rough 10C drop in CPU temp with using the Gladiator instead of the stock hsf. I'm not sure whether this is mostly due to the Delta fan or the OCZ heatsink, but my money's on the fan, cuz my system temp in VIAHM is a couple degrees lower now, too. I'm noticing that the OCZ copper heatsink isn't nearly as hot to the touch as my old aluminum was under full load; I guess that could be due to the Delta fan as well. But it's also likely that the OCZ is just not the best copper heatsink out there. The finish on the bottom didn't wow me. It'll be all right for my Duron but my next rig is gonna be water-cooled.
I do have that Delta plugged into a 3pin fan header, which my KT7A seems to be handling fine (though there's only 1 other serious fan connected to the mainboard). I think I will get a 3-to-4pin adapter, however, once I address the rheostat issue.
TRENDING THREADS
-
-
Question New installed W11 on sdd, D drive (HDD) goes to the 100% in seconds
- Started by Emily_Vin
- Replies: 8
-
-
Latest posts
-
Question Issues with USB3 hub chained from Thunderbolt dock ?
- Latest: jauntysquirrel
-
-
-
-
-
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram