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Weird water cooling question

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I was thinking the other day how to make water cooling work better, like what liquid(s) could I use to make the heat transfer work better. My question is does anyone think that replacing water with a liquid like acetone or rubbing alcohol would make it work better? Both have a high vapor pressure and in turn, they cool off because they evaporate quickly. I know its crazy but could it work? Please give me some info! Thanks.

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I am not positive, but evaporation speeds will have nothing to do with how much heat it can hold/carry. The specific heat of acetone or rubbing alcohol might be much lower than water, making it much less effective. Remember this is a closed circuit, so no evaporation can occur. :smile:

Try checking into the specific heat of various compounds and substances to use in it.

:tongue: Have you ever tried cooking an egg on your HSF? Tasty. :tongue:

Reply to Boondock_Saint

Look for my post on the subject. What your trying to accomplish is a heat pipe. I gave a lot of information as to how a heatpipe could be turned sideways to use a radiator.

What's the frequency, Kenneth?

Reply to Crashman
- 0 +

You can also use somthing like WatterWetter to increase the heat transportation of the water.

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Reply to svol
- 0 +

I had an idea of trying mercury, but I have no real idea if it would be effective. I do know that it would be expensive and extremely dangerous, but the idea of liquid metal running around my computer and taking it's heat away sounds pretty cool (pardon my pun).

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Reply to dejay

if you sprung a leak, the EPA would be all over you....

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon

...not to mention you and your family going insane... :smile:



:tongue: Have you ever tried cooking an egg on your HSF? Tasty. :tongue:

Reply to Boondock_Saint
- 0 +

Ha! Too late, I'm already insane (and I'd be surprised if my family weren't).

<font color=purple>I'm new here, I don't deserve a sig.</font color=purple>

Reply to dejay

not that kinda crazy....were talking serious crazy....
heavy metal poisoning is not cool.....
read a national geographic at my grandmas house once...the pictures were pretty bad...it is kinda sick.
but...feel free to try..hehe...let us know what happens....if you do...but then again...kinda expensive, and i think you would have to fill out some crazy ammounts of forms to get enough mercury to cool your cpu.....

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon
- 0 +

Actually mercury would be a bad choice because it has a lower specific heat than water and would not be able to take in much of the heat produced by the processor. You need to find something that has a higher specific heat and a little less poisonous. Why not antifreeze? heh heh.

Do you work at UPS? 'cuz i could have sworn you were checkin out my package!

Reply to Mnx4
- 0 +

antifreeze is highly corrosive....

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Reply to peteb

And apparently it doesn't conduct heat as well as straight water--at least, so I've been told.

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Hmmmph--whatever...

Reply to digital_trucker

Actually antifreeze is used in computer systems to help prevent corrosion (just like it does in cars), especially in cooling systems with both copper and aluminum where there can be a battery effect. Antifreeze is also used in cooling systems to help prevent things from growing in cooling systems. Waterwetters are also good for these reasons too. Antifreeze does conduct heat less than just plain water, distilled water always works best. A favorite "recipe" is that of overclock-watercool's found <A HREF="http://www.overclockwatercool.com/coolant.html" target="_new">here</A>. I've seen the idea of rubbing alcohol being used, but the conclusion has always been that is wouldn't work as well. I've also seen some wacky stuff like submerging the whole PC in non-conductive liquid and using dry ice and liquid nitrogen, but that is a good way to ruin your PC.

Reply to Anonymous
- 0 +

Water wetter is fine, but true antifreeze is corrosive and should be flushed out of car systems fairly frequently. It does prevent growth of nasty stuff, but so can other, non-corrosive substances. This is why generally car coolant systems should be drained in summer and replaced with a non-antifreeze solution generally. There are new products out now that do the same thing whilst being much less corrosive (I'm not talking sulphuric acid in any case) and they claim you do not need to flush them...

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Reply to peteb

Look at <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1297886772" target="_new">this</A>.
I'm sure the 3M Fluorinert is better than water.

Reply to Ed_Phoon

yeah, but flaurinert is EXPENSIVE!
but flaurinert can be cooled with ln2 i think, and then used to cool the system.
also, you will have to replenish the ln2...
and unfortunately, unless you are generating enough heat to heat up the flaurinert after it is cooled down, i am pretty sure that it turns into a gel like substance when it gets too cold...
that would not be very good for the pump, or the cooling capabilities of the total system.
not sure tho.

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon
- 0 +

yeah i have to agree that fluoronet is really cool. Id love to get me some of that!.. if i had the money. But off the subject of liquid cooling, why not solid cooling? i know it sounds weird but why not use a really cold substance? Theoretically, couldn't one put a small block of Dry ice (solid CO2) on the proccesor or in front of a fast fan? I don't think it will form a condensate because it sublimes so it would have no time to become a liquid. Either way i dont think a CO2 would be conductive, but i actually don't know. Any ideas, comments, questions?

Putting the laughter back in to Slaughter.

Reply to Mnx4

that would be a very high maintenance system.
imagine replacing the dry ice like once a day...
but it might cool the air good..
and cool air would make the heatsink cool better.
what i am thinking about is this.
a refrigeration system, that cools the air to a very low temp, but right before the air goes into the system, there is a dehumidifier, which dry's the air so that it will not be as likely to condense.
i dont know how good that would work, but it might cool the system down a bunch!
anyone else have an idea about this?

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon
- 0 +

Your setup wouldn't work. Condensation isn't caused by cold humid air hitting a hot surface, it is caused by warm humid air hitting a cold surface. Running a defumidifier on the cold air is pointless, you would have to de-humidify the warm (room temp or ambient) air instead.

In theory if you had an air conditioner and a pipe, you could just pipe the cold air into the computer and not worry about condensation. So long as the air conditioner blows in the cold air then the warm moist air cannot enter. The only condensation you would get would be on the outside of the case since the only only air that could enter the case would be coming from the air conditioner. Of course you would either have to have the air conditioner running constantly or else turn it on about 10-20 min before you want to use the computer to allow it to cool down/dry out (interesting, you need time to let it "warm up" to cool down).

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Reply to knowan
- 0 +

yeah i do realize that it would be a high-upkeep system, but of course i was just posing the theory. It would cost a bunch to get a new block of dry ice each day. As for the problem of condensation, couldn't you keep the cold air in a metal pipe with sealed ends and just drop a chunk of dry ice in there every once in a while? There may be however a condensate that will form on the pipe itself. So i guess there really isnt a point to go through all the trouble of get a dehumidifier, more dry ice, etc.

Putting the laughter back in to Slaughter.

Reply to Mnx4

Ideas? Just that the rapid cooling of the dry ice touching the chip would probably crack your CPU and maybe parts of your motherboard too. This stuff has been done before: submerging the PC in flouranert and setting blocks of dry ice in it then circulating liquid nitrogen through it. I forgot the link to it, but it was what I was referring to in my last post. Amazing enough it all worked quite well until the liquid nitrogen was used. Here is a link to another time it was done where they skipped the dry ice and had little problems:
<A HREF="http://www.octools.com/index.cgi?caller=articles/submersion/submersion.html" target="_new">http://www.octools.com/index.cgi?caller=articles/submersion/submersion.html</A>

Reply to Anonymous

didnt the flaurinert turn to gel when they used the dry ice and the ln2?

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon

I just read that entire article. That is some crazy stuff. There has to be an easier way.

<b>All for one and one for all...and 3 for 5! - Curly - The Three Stooges</b> :lol:

Reply to bum_jcrules

Why bother? Any CPU temp around 40C is plenty good.

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Reply to digital_trucker

Water is just about the best coolant you can get. It has a high specific heat capacity, and it conducts well. It is even the best choice for a vapour/phase change coolant system as it has a very high latent heat of condensation/evaporation.

The only thing that would be better than straight water is to add some water wetter. Anything else would have more negative effects than positive.

A mercury coolant system would also be VERY heavy.

Lyrics. Wasted time between solos.

Reply to silverpig
- 0 +

I was doing some research last night and i found a liquid that has a higher specific heat than water and it is naturally ocurring! its liquid ammonia! the only problem is that its a gas a room tempreture. I checked out household ammonia thinking it would work, but it says that it is ammonium hydroxide plus some weird additives. I asked my chem teacher about it and she said ammonium hydroxide is the product of running ammonia through water. Maybe itll work, maybe it wont... ill research some more.

Putting the laughter back in to Slaughter.

Reply to Mnx4

"didnt the flaurinert turn to gel when they used the dry ice and the ln2?"

No, but if I remember right the liquid nitrogen started to in it's container before they poured it anyway.

Reply to Anonymous

But ammonium hydroxide will attack certain metals, make sure you choose the right one(tube, waterblock, etc).

I have another idea, use some wool or similar things that can absorb moisture, put it on top of heatsink, a reservoir and a wool rope to supply water/moisture to wet the wool(the terminology for the effect please), and blow a fan to the heatsink/wool, heat is sinked through evaporation of water, which is highly effective.

Reply to Ed_Phoon

the ln turned to gel?
crazy.


-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon
- 0 +

i must say ed that is an ingenius idea! It takes a lot of energy to break the hydrogen bonds so it would thus make it cool better. I guess the only thing is how would you face your fan? you cannot blow the water vapor toward the motherboard because wouldn't it come in contact with the components and make them short out? Blowing it away from the components would work, but your case would have to be open to allow the vapor to go somewhere. It may work better in a closed system, like in a pipe or a tunnel. Great idea though.

Putting the laughter back in to Slaughter.

Reply to Mnx4

maybe here is where the dehumidifier would come in handy..
have the fan pulling air in from the sides of the "heatsink", and then up through a pipe that blows the cooled air into a dehumidifier, and then the cooled, dried air would be pumped back into the case, which would be recycled.
only thing is, i am pretty sure that a de-humidifier needs to be drained, but you might ba able to make this into a closed system, just recycle the water from the de-humidifier, back to the wool heatsink.
this is a pretty good idea..
seeing as how our body is able to keep our core temp close to 98.6, through an intricate process, similar to that of a watercooling system, with our veins and arteries taking heat from inside, and moving it to our skin surface, which is evaporated away...and the whole thing is obviously very efficient, since we dont spontaneuously combust.

-DAvid

-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-

Reply to HonestJhon
- 0 +

The problems with using ammonia are as follows:

1) It is a gas at room temp.

2) It is corrosive.

3) It is highly noxious (smells bad enough to knock you out).

The solution: Use a closed system under high pressure. Under higher pressure the boiling point increases. You'd want to get it up around 75C for a liquid cooled system or around 40-45C for an evaporation/condensation system.

Of course, it would still be highly corrosive, so you would have to replace parts occasionally (particularly in the pump if one is used). And if it ever springs a leak you would have to evacuate. I'm serious, this stuff is powerfully smelly, enough to knock you out and leave you breathing it in and corroding your lungs until you die.

As for the wet wool idea, there are 4 problems:

1) water + electricity = electric short

2) You would have to constantly be wetting the wool. High maintenance.

3) As the evaporation takes place, it increases the local humidity. As the humidity increases evaporation becomes less effective. You would have to exhaust the humid air from the computer room.

4) Moisture + warmth = mould and other biotics

As for the solution, you would have to use some sort of an open topped container to hold the wet wool only over the CPU. Since you would have to make sure that it does not leak, you would most likely have to permanently affix it to the processor/mobo, meaning no upgrades. There's a heat conducting enamel that you can paint directly on the CPU to waterproof it and the surrounding area.

They you set up some sort of a wick to move water from a reservoir to the wool. You would still have to fill the reservoir on occasion, but it's a lot easier than trying using an eyedropper to add a few drops every few seconds.

As for the circulation/humidity problem, simply open a window and have a fan exhaust the air.

The biotics problem is a bit more difficult. You can't add anything to the water because it will either a) evaporate with the water into the air that you are breathing or b) as the water evaporates and it doesn't it will build up over time and start "gumming up the works". Solution: don't use wool. Find a substance which is porous enough to absorb the water and is naturally resistant to biotics. Unfortunately, nothing comes to mind here.

Wouldn't it be easier to set up a watercooling system with a bong-type evaporator instead? Same general effect except that the evaporation is moved out of the case.


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Reply to knowan
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