I recently put together a new system with a retail AthlonXP 2000+ in a Lian-Li PC7 case. Right now, with the three case fans on, the cpu idles at around 60C and has gotten close to 70C under full loads. Would it be more effective for me to replace the stock hsf with either a Coolermaster HHC-001 or Thermalright AX-7, or to add 2 Panaflo 120mm fans (the high powered ones)? If I added the two fans, I would put one blowing in on the side to the cpu, and one blowing out on the top and would regualte them with a Baybus from PCMods.com. If you recommend the new hsf, which one do you recommend? Any help is greatly appreciated!
I agree just try another cooler like the volcano 7 also when you mounted get something like Arctic Silver III compound. And make sure that you apply the compound correctly cos that has a big imact. Also if youre going to add more case fans dont over do it. Make sure that you have a nice windtunnel eefect. Youre better of having more fans sucking air out than forceing in.
Anyways that is all.
<font color=blue><b>BAD ASS BOYS OVERCLOCK BAD ASS TOYS</b></font color=blue>
Anyways that is all.
<font color=blue><b>BAD ASS BOYS OVERCLOCK BAD ASS TOYS</b></font color=blue> HonestJhon
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hmmm...the last part of your post seems a bit shady.
the best configuration is to have the same ammount going in as out.
i think that is hard to achieve though.
my personal experience has been better with SLIGHTLY more going in than out.
just getting air moving in the case is the best thing.
half of the people using computers have no air circulating in their case...or VERY little at all.
more air moving means more heat being transferred away, and cooler components.
startegic placing of fans is important. directing airflow is key. you should also look into closing up holes that arent being directed, as it impedes the directed airflow idea. covering holes with duct tape, or electrical tape should do the trick.
anyways...more air in, more air out, big debate...simple solution, try both, see what works best for you...
then use the best configuration.
also keep in mind that when a fan has to strain, like if there is not a balance in the case, the fan is going to be louder...and the fan will not last as long.
SO, achieving a balance will cause less noise, and make the fans last longer.
i hope you are able to come to a conclusion about the best configuration of fans. good luck!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
the best configuration is to have the same ammount going in as out.
i think that is hard to achieve though.
my personal experience has been better with SLIGHTLY more going in than out.
just getting air moving in the case is the best thing.
half of the people using computers have no air circulating in their case...or VERY little at all.
more air moving means more heat being transferred away, and cooler components.
startegic placing of fans is important. directing airflow is key. you should also look into closing up holes that arent being directed, as it impedes the directed airflow idea. covering holes with duct tape, or electrical tape should do the trick.
anyways...more air in, more air out, big debate...simple solution, try both, see what works best for you...
then use the best configuration.
also keep in mind that when a fan has to strain, like if there is not a balance in the case, the fan is going to be louder...and the fan will not last as long.
SO, achieving a balance will cause less noise, and make the fans last longer.
i hope you are able to come to a conclusion about the best configuration of fans. good luck!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
bum_jcrules
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The coomaster is a good heasink but your main problem is probably the latent energy inside the case. 70C is way too high. The stock heatsink will work fine if you intend <b>not</b> to overclock. I hope that the air temp outside of you case is less than 70C. Is it?
HonestJhon is correct in the airflow setup. Equalized pressures will allow the maximum amount of air to flow <b>THROUGH</b> the case. Cooler air molecules from outside the case running into the warmer componets on the inside of the case and then exiting the case. That is the optimal condition to have with a case.
If sound level is not an issue buy a box fan or small house fan and take the side of you case off. It would cost less or the same as buying 120mm fans and would require less effort. This aimed at the CPU and GPU will help a lot. This is the simplest solution I can give you.
HonestJhon and I can come up with fancier solutions but tell us how much to spend, how cool you want to go, and we and others will do the rest.
<b>"Sometimes you can't hear me because I'm talking in parenthesis" - Steven Wright</b> :lol:
HonestJhon is correct in the airflow setup. Equalized pressures will allow the maximum amount of air to flow <b>THROUGH</b> the case. Cooler air molecules from outside the case running into the warmer componets on the inside of the case and then exiting the case. That is the optimal condition to have with a case.
If sound level is not an issue buy a box fan or small house fan and take the side of you case off. It would cost less or the same as buying 120mm fans and would require less effort. This aimed at the CPU and GPU will help a lot. This is the simplest solution I can give you.
HonestJhon and I can come up with fancier solutions but tell us how much to spend, how cool you want to go, and we and others will do the rest.
<b>"Sometimes you can't hear me because I'm talking in parenthesis" - Steven Wright</b> :lol:
HonestJhon
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yep! everyone here has MANY ideas, i am sure!
it all depends on how much you are looking to spend, how much time you have, how much knowledge of tools you have, and if you are willing to cut up your case a bit.
i can suggest some "undooable" mods that will VASTLY increase your cooling performance!
give us a link to a picture of something that LOOKS like your case, if not a picture of your case.
that will also help us to help you.
and if your room where your computer is is 70°C, i dont know how you could sit there and use it!
that is pretty darn hot!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
it all depends on how much you are looking to spend, how much time you have, how much knowledge of tools you have, and if you are willing to cut up your case a bit.
i can suggest some "undooable" mods that will VASTLY increase your cooling performance!
give us a link to a picture of something that LOOKS like your case, if not a picture of your case.
that will also help us to help you.
and if your room where your computer is is 70°C, i dont know how you could sit there and use it!
that is pretty darn hot!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
Thanks for the replies everyone!
No, my room is not 70C :tongue: (more like 70-75F)
I am willing to spend around $50 I guess, maybe up to $100 if I feel it is worth it. I think I might try overclocking sometime, so I would really like to get a new hsf. I am leaning torwards the Coolermaster right now, but am still considering the ThermalRight AX-7 and the Thermaltake Volcano 7+. As far as cutting up my case goes, I don't really mind as long as it will help. Classes are done now, so time really isn't an issue. Click <A HREF="http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage.asp?image=11-112-012-01.JPG/11-112-012-02.JPG/11-112-012-03.JPG/11-112-012-04.JPG/11-112-012-05.JPG/11-112-012-06.JPG/11-112-012-07.JPG" target="_new">here</A> to see my case. It has 2 80mm fans sucking air in the front, and 1 80mm fan and my Enermax psu blowing out the back. Thanks again!
No, my room is not 70C :tongue: (more like 70-75F)
I am willing to spend around $50 I guess, maybe up to $100 if I feel it is worth it. I think I might try overclocking sometime, so I would really like to get a new hsf. I am leaning torwards the Coolermaster right now, but am still considering the ThermalRight AX-7 and the Thermaltake Volcano 7+. As far as cutting up my case goes, I don't really mind as long as it will help. Classes are done now, so time really isn't an issue. Click <A HREF="http://www.newegg.com/app/Showimage.asp?image=11-112-012-01.JPG/11-112-012-02.JPG/11-112-012-03.JPG/11-112-012-04.JPG/11-112-012-05.JPG/11-112-012-06.JPG/11-112-012-07.JPG" target="_new">here</A> to see my case. It has 2 80mm fans sucking air in the front, and 1 80mm fan and my Enermax psu blowing out the back. Thanks again!
HonestJhon
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wow, nice case!
50-100 is going to be PLENTY to just add some fans.
assuming you have tools already...if not, then that is fine, because there are still options.
here is what i did to my case.
i bought a ustoyo (decent fan) 120mm fan from FRYs. that was 12 bucks. i had to put a molex connector on it, but i stole that from an old fan. if you dont have one, they are like a buck or less.
i then got a 3 dollar potentiometer and a 1.25 switch so that i could control the fan. i also put in a blue led to indicate if the fan was on or off. but that is optional.
i cut a hole in the side panel of my case so that when the fan is mounted, it will blow air on the cpu/vid card/ram. it is mostly on the cpu, and some air goes on the vid card and ram. to cut the hole, i used a dremel with the fiberglass reinforced cut off wheels. my dremel came with two fiberglass wheels (maybe one, cant remember) but i bought some more from home depot for 11 bucks.
so far we are up to 28.25, unless you dont have a dremel or any other tool that you can use to cut metal in a circle like that. if not, then you can pick up a Black and Decker RTX from home depot for like 50 bucks i think...
oh, forgot to add a grill for the fan. that is a 1.20 at frys. screws are a buck. SO, if you have tools, that is 30.45 so far.
to make the template for the fan hole, you can just use a cd. if you are putting in a 120mm fan, a cd is the perfect size for the hole. i would suggest making the hole on the inside of the case, and taping off the surface that you dont want cut. make a circle of tape around the hole you want to cut out. it will make it easier to see the hole you are going to cut and will protect the metal from slips.
double check all the measurements and then double check them again. and double check again...once you cut, you cant go back.
wear some safety goggles and take your time. let to tool do the cutting...just guide it...
cut a little to the inside of the line, as you will have to do some finishing anyways, and giving yourself a margin of error is always a good idea.
when you have the hole cut, drill holes for the fan mounting. to mark the holes, line the fan up with the hole you cut, and then pencil the marks. use a REALLY short pencil, or put pencil led on the fan, and use the fan to mark the holes when you place the fan on the panel. then use a drill, or even the rotary tool to drill the holes for the screws. check every couple of seconds of drilling to make sure the hole for the screw is big enough. or use a bit that is the correct size that would allow the screw to easily slide through, but catch on the screw head. then mount the fan. put the grill on the outside of the case, and the fan on the inside. have it blowing in for this part of the case. screw it in, and plug it into the powersupply, or the fan control that you can make.
i can draw you up a plan for the fan control, as it is hard to explain...but easy to draw out.
i can email you that.
i might even have a fan template that i can mail you.
as another option, you can make a "chimney" on the top of your case, with another 120mm fan. just follow the same procedure and add another fan to your shopping list.
having one fan pull air in, and another equal size fan blowing out the top will give you EXCELLENT airflow in that case, and will bring your case temps VERY close if not on par to the room temp. and that will in turn help the processor stay cool.
email me if you want me to give you the plans for the fan control. it is quite simple...and versatile.
let me know if anything is confusing, and i will clarify it...
i hope that helps! and people will keep posting ideas here..i am sure! and you can just pick what you like the best.
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
50-100 is going to be PLENTY to just add some fans.
assuming you have tools already...if not, then that is fine, because there are still options.
here is what i did to my case.
i bought a ustoyo (decent fan) 120mm fan from FRYs. that was 12 bucks. i had to put a molex connector on it, but i stole that from an old fan. if you dont have one, they are like a buck or less.
i then got a 3 dollar potentiometer and a 1.25 switch so that i could control the fan. i also put in a blue led to indicate if the fan was on or off. but that is optional.
i cut a hole in the side panel of my case so that when the fan is mounted, it will blow air on the cpu/vid card/ram. it is mostly on the cpu, and some air goes on the vid card and ram. to cut the hole, i used a dremel with the fiberglass reinforced cut off wheels. my dremel came with two fiberglass wheels (maybe one, cant remember) but i bought some more from home depot for 11 bucks.
so far we are up to 28.25, unless you dont have a dremel or any other tool that you can use to cut metal in a circle like that. if not, then you can pick up a Black and Decker RTX from home depot for like 50 bucks i think...
oh, forgot to add a grill for the fan. that is a 1.20 at frys. screws are a buck. SO, if you have tools, that is 30.45 so far.
to make the template for the fan hole, you can just use a cd. if you are putting in a 120mm fan, a cd is the perfect size for the hole. i would suggest making the hole on the inside of the case, and taping off the surface that you dont want cut. make a circle of tape around the hole you want to cut out. it will make it easier to see the hole you are going to cut and will protect the metal from slips.
double check all the measurements and then double check them again. and double check again...once you cut, you cant go back.
wear some safety goggles and take your time. let to tool do the cutting...just guide it...
cut a little to the inside of the line, as you will have to do some finishing anyways, and giving yourself a margin of error is always a good idea.
when you have the hole cut, drill holes for the fan mounting. to mark the holes, line the fan up with the hole you cut, and then pencil the marks. use a REALLY short pencil, or put pencil led on the fan, and use the fan to mark the holes when you place the fan on the panel. then use a drill, or even the rotary tool to drill the holes for the screws. check every couple of seconds of drilling to make sure the hole for the screw is big enough. or use a bit that is the correct size that would allow the screw to easily slide through, but catch on the screw head. then mount the fan. put the grill on the outside of the case, and the fan on the inside. have it blowing in for this part of the case. screw it in, and plug it into the powersupply, or the fan control that you can make.
i can draw you up a plan for the fan control, as it is hard to explain...but easy to draw out.
i can email you that.
i might even have a fan template that i can mail you.
as another option, you can make a "chimney" on the top of your case, with another 120mm fan. just follow the same procedure and add another fan to your shopping list.
having one fan pull air in, and another equal size fan blowing out the top will give you EXCELLENT airflow in that case, and will bring your case temps VERY close if not on par to the room temp. and that will in turn help the processor stay cool.
email me if you want me to give you the plans for the fan control. it is quite simple...and versatile.
let me know if anything is confusing, and i will clarify it...
i hope that helps! and people will keep posting ideas here..i am sure! and you can just pick what you like the best.
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
Maybe your cpu temp probe is not positioned correctly??
I recently installed a Volcano 7+ and kept getting readings of about 80 degrees Celcius!! Once I checked the temp probe, I noticed it was too low, so I nudged it up a little and voila! Temp was back down to around 40 degrees. 70 degrees is way too high...especially on a Lian-Li aluminium case!!
"If there's grass on the field...play ball!!"
I recently installed a Volcano 7+ and kept getting readings of about 80 degrees Celcius!! Once I checked the temp probe, I noticed it was too low, so I nudged it up a little and voila! Temp was back down to around 40 degrees. 70 degrees is way too high...especially on a Lian-Li aluminium case!!
"If there's grass on the field...play ball!!"
HoneseJhon: Thanks, so far I am really liking my case too. It sure beats the old Dell case that I was using before! The 2 120mm fans sounds kind of like what I was thinking of doing. I have a dremel, and all other necessary tools so that is not an issue. I think I might just start with the hsf and see how things go, but if you could send the template to me I would really appreciate it . Just send it to my email in my profile. Thanks!
jihiggs: Although this is the first time that I put a computer together, I took my time and am fairly sure that I did it right. I thoroughly removed the thermal tape from the hsf and used artic silver 3. My cpu idles at around 57C now. I think it was hotter because it was really warm in my area those first couple days after installing the cpu, and my house was really hot.
conehead: I am not using a temp probe. I am just using MBM 5 to monitor the temp thru the motherboard.
. Just send it to my email in my profile. Thanks!jihiggs: Although this is the first time that I put a computer together, I took my time and am fairly sure that I did it right. I thoroughly removed the thermal tape from the hsf and used artic silver 3. My cpu idles at around 57C now. I think it was hotter because it was really warm in my area those first couple days after installing the cpu, and my house was really hot.
conehead: I am not using a temp probe. I am just using MBM 5 to monitor the temp thru the motherboard.
HonestJhon
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i would be glad to email you the templates when i find them...i will look later today.
but the motehrboard reads the temp through a "probe" in the socket. there is usually a green or blue thermistor. it touches the bottom of the CPU. that is where motherboard monitor gets its temp reading from.
there is usually another thermistor located near the bios chip, or near the battery for the bios. which is uaually close together.
but i will get you those templates when i find them later...until then, hang tight!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
but the motehrboard reads the temp through a "probe" in the socket. there is usually a green or blue thermistor. it touches the bottom of the CPU. that is where motherboard monitor gets its temp reading from.
there is usually another thermistor located near the bios chip, or near the battery for the bios. which is uaually close together.
but i will get you those templates when i find them later...until then, hang tight!
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
4Ryan6
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I'm running a Swiftech MCX 462 and keep my house around the same temperature as you, my CPU runs at 37c under heavy load, its not cheap, and its about 3 times louder running than a normal 80mm fan, and you have to completely remove your motherboard to install it, but the peace of mind is worth it. I bought mine from Inflow Direct, and they were very good to deal with, shipped it fast and no problems, it was packed very well. You get what you pay for, its a top of the line heatsink no bull. One caution is to make sure that your motherboard has the four mounting holes around the CPU socket or you will not be able to use it.
Well, I decided to just get a new hsf for now. I want to wait and see if the Y. S. Tech fans are any good (the TMD ones) before I mount the two 120mm fans. So last night I ordered a Thermalright AX-7 with a Delta 80mm fan. That should help out a lot for now at least. Thanks for all the help .
.HonestJhon
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those deltas are nicknamed "screamers"...hehe...LOUD...
but will move a lot, a LOT of air...
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
but will move a lot, a LOT of air...
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
vteng,
Here's my $.02
I agree with most of the advice given so far, but I think you could do a little experimenting to determine if the problem is the case airflow or the HSF.
Basically try Bum_JC's suggestion just on a trial basis: case side removed, housefan on motherboard/CPU. If this drops your temperatures significantly, then your problem is case airflow. If CPU temp stays high, then the HSF is the culprit.
For non-OC speeds, the stock HSF should run cooler than your temps indicate so I suspect lack of case airflow. In looking at the pics of you case ar newegg, I think this is because:
1. The existing case fans are being restricted by the fan guards and restrictive case openings. I'm surprised the Lian Li case does this.
2. There may really only be one functioning exhaust fan if you have a "smart PSU" (newer Antec and Enermax) that only runs the fan when the PSU temp gets up pretty high.
Basically, if the side off/house fan test shows a significant temp drop, I'd either try to optimise the performance of the existing case fans (by removing the flow restrictions and/or more powerful fans) OR I'd go with the more radical modifications that H-J recommends.
Also, in keeping with H-J's recommendation to seal off uncontrolled air leakages in the case with tape, I'd recommend trying to tape off the vent holes below the case fan on the back. They may actually be doing more harm than good in that they interfere with the fans ability to "control" the airflow and/or they may "short circuit" the intended airflow (generally recommended: low front intake, high rear output). This would be especially true if the back of your case is in an enclosed area. In that case, the hot air coming out the rear exhaust would just come right back in those vent holes. You need to get rid of all the exhaust air and bring in fresh outside air, not recirculate the hot air.
Lastly, my opinion on inlet vs outlet fan balancing: I prefer more input fans than exhaust, especially if you can filter it (running the case at slight positive pressure). With more exhaust than intake, you pull air in at all leakage points, including the floppy drive, CD trays, etc. Over time that has caused problems for me in the past. Filters are nice in that then everything stays clean inside your case which should also improve cooling. Of course plugged or restrictive filters will do more harm than good so you've got to do it right and then keep them clean.
BW
Here's my $.02
I agree with most of the advice given so far, but I think you could do a little experimenting to determine if the problem is the case airflow or the HSF.
Basically try Bum_JC's suggestion just on a trial basis: case side removed, housefan on motherboard/CPU. If this drops your temperatures significantly, then your problem is case airflow. If CPU temp stays high, then the HSF is the culprit.
For non-OC speeds, the stock HSF should run cooler than your temps indicate so I suspect lack of case airflow. In looking at the pics of you case ar newegg, I think this is because:
1. The existing case fans are being restricted by the fan guards and restrictive case openings. I'm surprised the Lian Li case does this.
2. There may really only be one functioning exhaust fan if you have a "smart PSU" (newer Antec and Enermax) that only runs the fan when the PSU temp gets up pretty high.
Basically, if the side off/house fan test shows a significant temp drop, I'd either try to optimise the performance of the existing case fans (by removing the flow restrictions and/or more powerful fans) OR I'd go with the more radical modifications that H-J recommends.
Also, in keeping with H-J's recommendation to seal off uncontrolled air leakages in the case with tape, I'd recommend trying to tape off the vent holes below the case fan on the back. They may actually be doing more harm than good in that they interfere with the fans ability to "control" the airflow and/or they may "short circuit" the intended airflow (generally recommended: low front intake, high rear output). This would be especially true if the back of your case is in an enclosed area. In that case, the hot air coming out the rear exhaust would just come right back in those vent holes. You need to get rid of all the exhaust air and bring in fresh outside air, not recirculate the hot air.
Lastly, my opinion on inlet vs outlet fan balancing: I prefer more input fans than exhaust, especially if you can filter it (running the case at slight positive pressure). With more exhaust than intake, you pull air in at all leakage points, including the floppy drive, CD trays, etc. Over time that has caused problems for me in the past. Filters are nice in that then everything stays clean inside your case which should also improve cooling. Of course plugged or restrictive filters will do more harm than good so you've got to do it right and then keep them clean.
BW
HonestJhon
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my cdburner is presealed....meaning that dust from the inside of the case cant get in there...
but i need to seal up my floppy drive, and all the holes in the front of the case.
electrical tape and duct tape is good for doing that.
i cant think of anything else to use to seal it up at the moment...but if i come up with something..i will post it here.
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
but i need to seal up my floppy drive, and all the holes in the front of the case.
electrical tape and duct tape is good for doing that.
i cant think of anything else to use to seal it up at the moment...but if i come up with something..i will post it here.
-DAvid
-Live, Learn, then build your own computer!-
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