Here are my comp specs:
Celeron 950GHz@100 Mhz
Gygabyte 60XT (can go up to 200 Mhz fsb)
256 pc133 Samsung (yeah I know it's shitty)
Jetway Gforce 2Mx 400 64 SDRAM
I changed the fsb from 100 to 120 and the system works perfectly (for more than a year). However at higher fsb the system becomes unstable and locks. The hsf if ok, and the temperature is no more than 38 degrees C. And the pci/agp is at 40/80 and still no problem ( with the latest bios update I have a pci/agp divider but don't use it).
At 133 fsb and the divider I have 1,26 Ghz and 33/66 but I locks almost instantly.
Is there anything else I could do to go higher and have the system stable? I read a few posts about changing the voltage but I don't know how (Mobo has no jumpers or bios options for that.
Thanks alot
PS. I hope to buy a new system in a few months so I don't care much if any of the components will go up in flames if I try "extreme" oc
Celeron 950 MHz is Coppermine, almost to the end of the line. It wont go much past 1 GHz. With just the FSB tweaking available (no multiplier changing for Intel CPUs) remember the core speed will jump by 9.5 MHz with each MHz you increase on the FSB.
You seem to have experimented quite a lot with teh system. I guess your conclusions hold well. Maybe 122~130 MHz FSB (1159~1235 MHz) just lower than 133 might work.
You have to zero in on the best speed the system (combination of everything, the board, processor, memory and of course the PCI and AGP hardware) offers.
girish
Every point I make has 'n' perspectives!
Boy do I need a <i>disclaimer</i> for my every word?
The problem is that I have seen that others where able to force their cpu (coppermine at ~1GHz) to a higher fsb, even to like 170, wich is kinda hard to belive, the SDRam being at 133.
Anyway, I won't try to force it up to 2GHz . But another 100 Mhz would be nice, at 133 fsb.
You might just be a lucky guy here: I had a PIII 1000EB Coppermine go to 1307MHz without problems, at 1.85V! Anyway, you WILL need to raise your voltage, and it sounds like only a small increase will be needed. I'd try 1.85v if you can get that on your board. If it's stable at that speed, try reducing the voltage in small steps to find the minimum stable voltage (to reduce heat).
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I've seen that raising the voltage is the option, but I don't know how to do it. On some Athlon XP MOBO's I saw the option of changing the voltage from bios. But in my "Frequency/voltage control" menu in bios I have options just for changing the fsb and the divider, and nothing about the voltage. On my old MOBO for K6-2 I could change the voltage from jumpers directly on the board. But the Gigabyte 60XT I have has no jumpers.
SO PLEASE any ideas on how to change the voltage (if posible)?
I think I'm starting to hate Gigabyte MOBO's
Well, I had instructions posted on my site, but that's down...I wrote a detailed description in here a long time ago. If you have some place I can send a file to, I'll send the directions.
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Thanks alot for the directions Crashman. But I have some more questions if u don't mind. (I'm new at voltage modification)
My cpu has a 1.750 V but I don't know (couldn't find out yet)if the Mobo ca give more than that. But my guess is that it does.
About the pins: Open means the pins stays out of the socket? or it doesn't? or Closed means the VID pin has to be conected to the VSS pin (whith a "fine" wire"?!?)?
I want to modify the cpu rather than the mobo. And I would like to get the fsb to 133 and cpu to 1,26 (if posible). What would be a good voltage for that? Or I should just try in small steps?
Thks again and sorry if I have "stupid questions"
Yes, I worded it that way to make it easier, open means no connection and closed means connected to VSS (either internally by the factory, or externally by you). You can take a piece of fine wire andbend it into a U shape, then drop it into a VSS and VID hole you need to make a good connection. Another way is to wrap the wire around the VSS and VID pin you want to connect. Either method requires super fine wire like you find in headphone cable.
You're in LUCK, because you don't need to disconnect any pins to get the voltage. Jumping up to 1.85v on a 1.75v CPU requires only connecting Vid1 to VSS. I have better news still! Because Vid0 is already connected to VSS, you can connect Vid1 to Vid0 and still be connecting it to VSS. This distance is shorter, and a U shaped jumper wire between those two pin holes would be rather easy.
Just remember that if you use the jumper wire from hole to hole, the socket holes are a mirror image (flipped left to right) of the pin diagram.
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Maybe I'm not so lucky after all. I tried what u told me, and I conected the 2 pin holes, vid 1 and vid 0 (I used a wire from the hands-free set which is the same as at the headphones). First time I started the pc after a few seconds I got a continous beep. I switched the power off and tried again. This time pc started normaly but nothing had change( the voltage was 1.750V). Started windows and everything looked ok (except the voltage). I got the same voltage readings both from bios and from a system info viewer from GBT. I tried the hole thing twice and the same happened: first start continuos beep(after setting the wire jumper) and then starts normaly but with no voltage change.
I should try to conect vid1 to vss directly? And about vss have one question: connect to which vss? the vss that changes at tualatin in vid25mv or the other one(I've seen 2)?
thanks
P.S. Can it be that the mobo can't get a higher voltage then 1,750?<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by ciuly on 01/10/03 06:37 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
Hmm, are you sure you got the right holes? Remember that they would be the holes corresponding to the PINS in that chart-in that chart the CPU is pin side up...you flip it over to install it, therefore the corresponding socket holes would be a mirror image. On my Slotkets that means the pin holes are next to the part that says PGA370 and on the oposite side of the lever.
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Trust me. I conected the right pin holes. I double verified.
I read on another guide (for tualatin) that u should'nt push too hard if the proc doesn't fit in (becouse of the wire). But I had no problem like that, and the proc went in very smoothly, and when I took it out the wire remained there. Maybe the wire is too thin?
PLease help
Thanks
That brings me to an earlier question. Which vss?
On your drawing there are 2 vss - one close to vid0 and vid1 and another close to vid0 and vid2 than is changed at tualatin with vid25mv (if I am correct). Can I connect vid1 to any of them?
Thanks again for your time
Crap, I just realized you're using a Tualatin compatable board, it probably doesn't support detected voltages over 1.825v! But Gigabyte has an "advanced" menu on many of their boards, I think you have to hit Alt-F1 in BIOS to access it, it should give you voltage controlls. Sorry, but for Tualatin boards, I've run you down the wrong road.
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No problem Crashman. I should have mentioned that the board is tualatin compatable, but I didn't now it matters.I'll try the bios thing
Tuff luck. It didn't work. Tried Alt+F1 and + all F's and with Ctrl. Guess my mobo has no advanced menu in bios. Is there anything else (except buying a new mobo & cpu) to do to get the cpu to work at a higher voltage (or stable at 133 fsb)?
<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by ciuly on 01/11/03 03:08 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
Grr, older boards that supported the original PPGA processor supported the full VRM 8.4 spec, which allowed outrageously high core voltages. I'm probably wrong about what keys you have to press to get into the advanced menu, but there SHOULD be an advanced menu available on a board this new! 1.80v would require you to disconnect a pin from the socket, which can sometimes be done with thin insulation and an enlarged hole...doesn't sound like a good option to me.
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. But another 100 Mhz would be nice, at 133 fsb.
