Water cooler, about to buy

andrewbadlose

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I am about to by these water cooling parts tell me if i missing anytning ... like the tube size etc.. or any adapters i might need...

Block
<A HREF="http://www.directron.com/maze3shd.html" target="_new">Water block maze 3 with 3/8</A>
The radiator
<A HREF="http://www.directron.com/wc315.html" target="_new">black ice rad with 3/8</A>
<A HREF="http://www.directron.com/tubing.html" target="_new">tubing 3/8</A>
pump
<A HREF="http://www.petsmart.com/fish/shopping/water_pumps/products/product_770.shtml" target="_new">mag pump 140gph 3/8</A>
so about $130 before tax and shipping
I think i going to try to make a watertight res for the submersable pump :O
Forgot to add i already have two <A HREF="http://urlhttp://www.newegg.com/app/viewproduct.asp?DEPA=&submit=Go&description=Galaxy+120mm+Crystal" target="_new">120 70CFM LED FANS</A>
<A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/andrewbadlose/index.htm" target="_new">Computer Specs Updated</A>..3d mark 2k1 13500points<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by andrewbadlose on 04/24/03 10:39 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 

LtBlue14

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hose clamps for insurance
and pump relay switch kits are nice so you can turn on your computer and the watercooling kit turns on with it
you also need a fan for that radiator =) i like the evercool 120mm aluminum fan 80CFM @ 30dBA, or the enermax 120mm fan that does 94CFM at a respectable noise level...i forget exactly what. both can be had from directron.com, or if you're ordering off of the danger den site then you can get the evercool fan from there
approximate prices:
------------------
hose clamps = $5
pump relay switch = $20
evercool or enermax fan = $15

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error_911

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Well havin a rez is a really good idea, helps gettin out the air in the system and cleanin it out, addin water etc etc, but don't forget, you need a removable screw-on cap so you can empty/fill the system - otherwise everythin sounds right, oh yeah, hose clamps (either plastic or metal) to secure your tubing to the barbs

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andrewbadlose

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I was wondering if it is ok not to have any water in the tubes / radator / or block when the comp is of since im pritty sure with my current design idea all the water will drain back into the res ill build....

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error_911

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no offence but <b>bad idea</b> ... when the system boots, are you going to have the pump and watercoling system already running or on a relay switch? besides, for you to properly integrate a reservoir into the system there's no way you'll be able to have the water from the circuit drain out into it - it just won't fit. additionally, if you hadn't know, running the system for a few hours/days before installing it is in part to get rid of any air bubbles in the tubing, radiator or waterblock which can REALLY damage your system if the waterblock hits a patch of air - talk about the temps skyrocketing. having the system drain itself out each time means that you'd have to go through the entire hassle of making sure there was no air in there each and every single time you turned it on... but still, i'd like to know why you want the system to drain itself out each time - i mean, if there is a certain logic to it it might be worth some consideration and perhaps modification

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LtBlue14

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how are you going to set it up so that air will refill the system? if the pump is completely submerged, the water will not flow back into the reservoir, because what would be left behind would be a vacuum. no air will be able to replace it because the air is not going to go down into the water and through the pump up into your waterblock - make sense?

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andrewbadlose

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The resivor might not be airtight.... and the pump is submersible so wouldn't the water just drain out?

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andrewbadlose

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Forgot to add i run my system 24/7

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LtBlue14

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i understand your problem, but it's a misconception; it won't happen. (this is good news! :smile: )
here's why: think of what will be replacing the water if it starts to come out of the top of the loop. when the water moves away from the top, something must replace it right? this something must be air, but where is the air going to come from? the only open place in your circuit is the pump, which is submerged, so no air can get into it that way. (picture air bubbles going in reverse, UNDER the water from the surface and into the pump, not gonna happen right?)
understand also that if the water moved out of the top, it could only be replaced by a vacuum, which would then suck the water back in. your reservoir does not have to be airtight for this to work. The force of the backpull of the vacuum, and the force of the reservoir water sitting on top of the pump, will keep the water inside of the tubes.
do you see what i mean? the key idea here is that a vacuum will be left if the water tries to drain, and that vacuum can't happen
(the only thing that COULD happen by water draining out of your tubes is a vacuum that causes some collapse in the tubing, but this should be minimal if it occurs at all, and even if it does occur, no air will be in your system (a good thing), and it will return back to normal once the force of your pump pushes water through the tubes again)

Edited to try to provide a clearer explanation

<A HREF="http://www.planettribes.com/allyourbase/ayb2.swf" target="_new">411 UR 84$E R 8E10NG 2 U$</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by LtBlue14 on 04/24/03 10:36 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
 

error_911

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so wait a second - whats the point in having the system drain itself out - and how ?

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LtBlue14

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there's no "point," he was just worried that it was gonna happen

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error_911

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ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh - i thought that he was tryin to do that on purpose ! (thats why i was like "why would you want to")

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