making a water block

traviss187 · May 12, 2003

I have to do a physics project, and am also tired of listening to my computer make lots of noise, so I naturally though of water cooling my pc, so I figure if i design my own water block and compare the effectivness of it vs. a standard heat sink ect... I can probably get a decent grade, I was wondering if anyone had any experience, advise or input on it, besides if it doesn't work I'll just go out and buy one... so if anyonehas any experience I'd appreciate the advice looking at these 2
http://www.overclockers.com/tips997/index04.asp
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1051/index04.asp
one specific question though, would it matter between drilling the main area in the bottom then adding a flat top, or drilling into the top and adding a thin bottom... one was done one, and one the other...

svol · May 12, 2003

Ah, I also build a waterblock when doing a physics graduating project... but I used it for peltier cooling (but it also fits in a PC, didn't had time to put it in one yet though). I also made it a different way because we don't had the equipment and materials to do it the way and I wanted a transparent block for a nice look.

I used the following procedure:
First I bought a 5 mm thick 90x90mm full copper block and drilled the 4 holes in it so I could use it with the 4 mounting holes my AMD Athlon board has.
Then I took 500 mm of 1 mm thick and 15 mm high copper plate and bended it in such a way it created a maze. Then I bought some sanitair soft solder (=Sn/Ag solder instead of Sn/Pb solder) and soldered the maze on the copper base block with some burners.
After that I lapped the waterblock till it was clean and flat and I made a 10 mm thick piece of transparant plastic of 100x100 mm. Then I cut some rubber to make a water tight fit between the maze and the plastic and mounted the plastic on the copper with 4 other holes I made in the copper baseplate and 4 crews.

Anyway you might have noticed my English isn't the best so lets cut the talking and let me show a pic of the finished product: <A HREF="http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~svo/newwc/Picwaterblock.jpg" target="_new">http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~svo/newwc/Picwaterblock.jpg</A>

If you're interested and want more details and pics I will upload some more.

My dual-PSU PC is so powerfull that the neighbourhood dims when I turn it on

jihiggs · May 12, 2003

well, it aint pretty but if it works, use it.

 black white yellow purple red green blue

svol · May 13, 2003

Not pretty? I think it looks very nice for a self made block. Now I only need to cut 1-2 mm of copper out of the bottom to make it possible to mount it on the socket.

My dual-PSU PC is so powerfull that the neighbourhood dims when I turn it on

jihiggs · May 13, 2003

its the solder. makes it look messy.

 black white yellow purple red green blue

svol · May 13, 2003

Hmmm... yes, that is what you get when you use a bad flametorch as heat source, and a little to much solder.

My dual-PSU PC is so powerfull that the neighbourhood dims when I turn it on

traviss187 · May 14, 2003

looks pretty good to me, the only thing I (and by I I mean my dad) is worried about is the waterblock leaking or creating a leak over an extended amount of time, anyone know of this happening.. I'm planning on soddering the two copper blocks together, then just as a side question, any recomendation for water pumps.. around $30, thanks

error_911 · May 14, 2003

for $30 bucks? a Via aqua 1300 - and about 'em leakin', just look a few pages back in the posts and check-out some pics of what can happen (i think its labeled "waterbock failue" or somethin like that)... basically, it fails and you can say goodbye to your CPU (and maybe mobo)

I like big butts - and i can lie

svol · May 14, 2003

That was overheating due to pump failure in a peltier/watercooling combo... everyone who builds a combo like that knows that is the risk of pump failure.

My PC is so freaking big and heavy it bends space and time

svol · May 14, 2003

Well if you enough solder paste to make the solder getting in all tiny spots and you thoroughly test the waterblock a full copper version that can't be opened should have as good as zero leak possibility.

Waterblocks like mine that can be opened are more furnirable for leaking though.

My PC is so freaking big and heavy it bends space and time

shadus · May 14, 2003

Really if you have the tools necessary it is best to fab the entire block out of a solid copper block... Gets rid of a whole potential class of leaks... i'd be a bit leary about leaks since it's cooling expensive electronics... if a pipe in my basement leaks a bit I don't care... I just fix it and go on... if my waterblock leaks, I care. Alot. Not to mention probally cry. Not pretty at all.

Shadus

svol · May 14, 2003

The problem with the full block design is that you have to drill holes in it from the sides to create the water channels. After you made those holes you close them with some epoxy... but even that is vulnerable to leaks. And I can't see another way of making it without some weid sci-fi cutting tool that can bend while drilling (maybe something similair to what was used against the Brittish ship in James Bond Tomorrow Never Dies).

My PC is so freaking big and heavy it bends space and time

error_911 · May 14, 2003

true true, but good enough of a depiction of pump failure (and good enough to scare someone, hehehahah)

I like big butts - and i can lie

traviss187 · May 15, 2003

just to update what I'm planning- right now I'm planning on putting together the system with a water block I make, but I'll run it on one of my old systems that I'm not to concerned about frying, my physics teacher wants me to try to find a compressor and supper cool it and compare the effects, but I'll worry about that later, but this brings about my next question...
If I set this up on an old cpu, like a pentium 166 or 266 will the increased cooling allow me to further overclock it, and if so, what a good way to do/measure that... I know it's a really crappy processor and not really worth it but the only other ones I have besides my main are xeon and in a slot so not sure If I could attach my water block to them... sorry for rambling, and thanks for any advise

error_911 · May 15, 2003

well, the extra cooling on a P 266 will let you get to maybe 300Mhz, maybe not, i mean, those chips were garbage... i know that if you wanna measure it though, best utility i can think of (except for the BIOS if it lists the clock speed) is SiSoft's Sandra burn in test... i use in on a P2 500Mhz I've got waitin to be OC'ed, and it works like a charm

I like big butts - and i can lie

svol · May 15, 2003

Remember that with phase-change cooling the waterblock needs to be much stronger and fully isolated in order to make it safe to use.

My CPU fan spins so fast that it creates a wormhole

az4521 · Feb 2, 2013

hey svol, use hot glue, it's a modder's duct tape. it's leak proof, and easy to use. im making a waterblock out of hot glue and an old heatsink, and it holds water perfectly

Motopsychojdn · Feb 3, 2013

**My PC is so freaking big and heavy it bends space and time **
You ain't seen mine lol,
I'm loving this thread and if I could suggest you Private message 4Ryan6 about it, he'd be very interested in the approaches you guys are taking, heres his Homethread on Sub-ambient/Tec cooling
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/275185-11-exploring-ambient-water-cooling
If you do what your physic prof wants, make sure to insulate the board, anything that cools below the dewpoint is going to cause condensation and you must take precautions

**Are these lines scratches or pressure cracks btw?

I would have made something to spread the load out on the block but I'm impressed nonethess, not many would make a waterblock themselves

Moto

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