Getting Kinky

[error_911]

Well, I recently started watercooling my system (might as well share some specs for those interested)... It's an Athlon 2200 based system, MSI KT3 Ultra, 512mb Samsung 333Mhz (OC'ed to 342Mhz, not much but I haven't bothered trying), Maxtor 40Gb, Lite-On 52x CDRW, LG 16x DVD-ROM, GF4 Mx440 OC'ed to 340Mhz/405Mhz (with Thermaltake Crystal Orb), two NICs, a sound sensitive CCFL, thats about it. As for the cooling, I'm using a Danger Den Maze3, Eheim 1250 pump and a 1973 Buick heater-ore with 1x120mm fan, in an external pump-enclosing reservoir uder my desk.

Now I've been fighting with major kinks in my tubing (1/2" ID) no matter what I do, and after many, many, MANY tries (and some close calls with regards to rising temps), I found a solution you can all use. I took out some of my sodder coil, clipped off a nice length and wrapped it tight around the tubing - it not only looks cool (well, yeah, kinda), but hold perfectly, is easy to use and won't wear-out like wire-loom... Also you can shape it to allow you to contort the tubing within a radius that you would usually not be able to while keeping it kink-free, and any other form.

Hope this helps a few of you at least.

<b>Well, got DSL back - now I need to split my connection through my comp and switch, stupid new modem doesn't have built-in router... urgh. One good thing though - watercooling!!</b>

 

[svol]

You mean solder, right?

So basicly you just winded a metal wire around the tube? Brilliant... much better then my current solution (I just put the smaller weak tube in a bigger and stronger one). I think I'm going to give it a try.

I love my Delta 60HP 7000 RPM fan that puts out more dB then CFM

 

[error_911]

Yup, thats all I did. Wound it around nice and tight, and the beauty of it is you can do it once you've got it all set-up and once you know where the kinks are (or end-up forming). I had tried something like you did, well kinda, taking a piece of semi-rigid plastic and tie-wrapping it to the kinked area, but that wouldn't hold and was way too bulky - this way you can conform it to whatever bend or shape you need.

<b>Well, got DSL back - now I need to split my connection through my comp and switch, stupid new modem doesn't have built-in router... urgh. One good thing though - watercooling!!</b>

 

[pIII_Man]

you could use armature wire too...it is sold at all art stores...no lead too...also it is probably cheaper

If i put my k6 in a Ferrari it would be faster than your your pentium 4 or Athlon XP :tongue:

 

[error_911]

well, i pay $1.40 for a roll of it, so i don't know how much cheaper

<b>Well, got DSL back - now I need to split my connection through my comp and switch, stupid new modem doesn't have built-in router... urgh. One good thing though - watercooling!!</b>

 

[PhoenixKnights]

I was thinking, Solder could be dangerous to put loose because it's conductive right? But you could put some masking tape around the solder, it could kinda become one of those twist tie type things that they put on bread bags and you wouldn't have to worry about anything shorting out because your case gets knocked while it's on and connects 2 things that shouldn't be connected

 

[error_911]

True, that is a possibility (though the low-grade solder I used is less conductive than electric solder, for example). Using those paper-covered read-bag twist-ties wouldn't be that great though because first-off, they're not too long so you've got minimal lengths to work with, and its not too strong in comparison to the solder and probably wouldn't do the trick.

What I was reminded of though is that some manufacturers include springs with their kits which are meant to be put inside the tubing to prevent kinks. Though I personally wouldn't restrict my waterflow with this, it brought-up an idea. I constantly see large springs at my hardware store and am going to pick up a couple and see if they'lll fit on the outside of the tubing... the advantage here would be that you've got a nice tight wrap, and therefore a nice tight, kink-free tube, as well as laterall flexibility in comparison to the solder. Anyways, will try it out and we'll see.

As for conductivity though - I'm not OVERLY worried, though I'm thinking heatshrink would make for a good look or perhaps dipping it in a thin silicone coating.

<b>Well, got DSL back - now I need to split my connection through my comp and switch, stupid new modem doesn't have built-in router... urgh. One good thing though - watercooling!!</b>

 

[PhoenixKnights]

Well I wasn't saying you should switch to twist ties, I was just saying you could put a strip of masking tape and use it around the solder to prevent it from being conductive

 

[error_911]

twist-ties? nah man, I understood what you meant, was just thinking something more aesthetically pleasing .. besides, one layer of masking tape wouldn't make too much of a difference with higher currents

<b>don't hold strong opinions about things you don't understand</b>

 

[PhoenixKnights]

well last time I checked masking tape isn't conductive, so I was figguring that unless it was pierced by a electrical contact it would prevent the solder from bridging any gaps and shorting anything out. But it's probably pretty safe as is

 

[pIII_Man]

for 12v masking tape is fine...

You used pipe solder? Sounds cheep for electrcal solder...what i thought you were using...


You may wana look up "Spring benders" they are used to bend pipes without kinking them....you could find one with the right inner diamiter for your tubing...

If i put my k6 in a Ferrari it would be faster than your your pentium 4 or Athlon XP :tongue:

 

[error_911]

oh for sure with 12V current in the system, but higher (though much higher, heh) could burn the tape actually... but whatever, its all good

<b>don't hold strong opinions about things you don't understand</b>

 

[error_911]

yeah i went the cheap way with pipe solder <b>obviously</b>... dude, i've got $0.60 to my name, heh

those spring benders sound like a good idea though, but i would like to avoid having to put something inside my tubing, rather it outside (so that it doesn't restrict waterflow whatsoever and for easier installation/removal)

<b>don't hold strong opinions about things you don't understand</b>