That's right!
It's off my old 2.66, but not my 3.06 yet (don't have any AS right now).
It's surprisingly easy to do...it also promises cooler temps, or better yet, a higher OC. Anyway, a guide is below...I forgot to take pics (I will when I do it to my 3.06), so for now you get diagrams.
With the text on the IHS oriented the way it should be (i.e., readable), here is the bottom of the processor:
<font color=green>|</font color=green> | o<font color=white> F I L L E R T E X T </font color=white> | <font color=green>|</font color=green>
<font color=green>|</font color=green> ---------<font color=red>----</font color=red>---------- <font color=green>|</font color=green>
<font color=green>_______________________</font color=green>
Another way to know the right corner, it's the one with the whole on the IHS
The red part is the only place (at least on the Northwood B) where there is no adhesive between the PCB and the IHS. Willamettes have the same scenario on all four edges (meaning only the corners have adhesive). I do not know about NWa or NWc, but I imagine they are the same as my NWb. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ON PRESCOTT--there are reports of the IHS and core being adhesed together...you will kill your CPU if you procede to do this (via the removal and/or breaking of your core).
Alright, back to the red space (in my diagram). Get a good blade (like an exacto knife) and some sort of small wedge (I found one of those newfangled staple removers...a small flat head screwdriver will do, however). Alright, go to town with the blade on those two corners, utilizing that space to insert the blade. You will know when a corner is free, the PCB will bend slightly; work on the other corner. TIP: when you get some lifting space, insert your wedge--it'll help A LOT. When you get both corners unglued, insert the wedge (or the blade first to get it to lift enough to fit your wedge), and lever the IHS off.
Now that the IHS is off, get some 99% isopropyl alcohol (no lower--the other stuff has conditioners to counter skin dryness that leaves residue) and clean it up. You're now ready to achieve cooler temps and possibly a greater OC! Enjoy.
NOTE: I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR MESS UPS, or any other processor problems after doing this procedure. Also note that I have only tested to see if my 2.66 can still run or not. Because I have no thermal compound, I am unable to say if my processors acheived lower temps. I am also unable to validate any increase in OCing for the same reasons in addition to the fact that my system is incapable (RDRAM and no PCI/AGP lock with a very sensitive RAID controller). Also, the IHS has a function...to prevent core cracking!! Removal of it increases the danger of breaking your core because of poor heatsink installation.
Taking those warnings in mind, everyone else has noticed reduced temps (so you and I will, too), some have reported increased OCing.
Enjoy!!
Maxtor disgraces the six letters that make Matrox.
It's off my old 2.66, but not my 3.06 yet (don't have any AS right now).
It's surprisingly easy to do...it also promises cooler temps, or better yet, a higher OC. Anyway, a guide is below...I forgot to take pics (I will when I do it to my 3.06), so for now you get diagrams.
With the text on the IHS oriented the way it should be (i.e., readable), here is the bottom of the processor:
<font color=green>|</font color=green> | o<font color=white> F I L L E R T E X T </font color=white> | <font color=green>|</font color=green>
<font color=green>|</font color=green> ---------<font color=red>----</font color=red>---------- <font color=green>|</font color=green>
<font color=green>_______________________</font color=green>
Another way to know the right corner, it's the one with the whole on the IHS
The red part is the only place (at least on the Northwood B) where there is no adhesive between the PCB and the IHS. Willamettes have the same scenario on all four edges (meaning only the corners have adhesive). I do not know about NWa or NWc, but I imagine they are the same as my NWb. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ON PRESCOTT--there are reports of the IHS and core being adhesed together...you will kill your CPU if you procede to do this (via the removal and/or breaking of your core).
Alright, back to the red space (in my diagram). Get a good blade (like an exacto knife) and some sort of small wedge (I found one of those newfangled staple removers...a small flat head screwdriver will do, however). Alright, go to town with the blade on those two corners, utilizing that space to insert the blade. You will know when a corner is free, the PCB will bend slightly; work on the other corner. TIP: when you get some lifting space, insert your wedge--it'll help A LOT. When you get both corners unglued, insert the wedge (or the blade first to get it to lift enough to fit your wedge), and lever the IHS off.
Now that the IHS is off, get some 99% isopropyl alcohol (no lower--the other stuff has conditioners to counter skin dryness that leaves residue) and clean it up. You're now ready to achieve cooler temps and possibly a greater OC! Enjoy.
NOTE: I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR MESS UPS, or any other processor problems after doing this procedure. Also note that I have only tested to see if my 2.66 can still run or not. Because I have no thermal compound, I am unable to say if my processors acheived lower temps. I am also unable to validate any increase in OCing for the same reasons in addition to the fact that my system is incapable (RDRAM and no PCI/AGP lock with a very sensitive RAID controller). Also, the IHS has a function...to prevent core cracking!! Removal of it increases the danger of breaking your core because of poor heatsink installation.
Taking those warnings in mind, everyone else has noticed reduced temps (so you and I will, too), some have reported increased OCing.
Enjoy!!
Maxtor disgraces the six letters that make Matrox.