If some of you could post your idle and load temps I would appreciate it. I would like to get an idea of what the range of temps for different liquid cooling systems on various setups tend to be.
My athlon system w/ outdoor radiator averaged about 15-20C when idle and under load. That is the temp it is outside most of the time where I live so it couldn't really get colder than that. And the volume of water/size of radiator in my system kept it at that temp so well it didn't change even when running prime95 or other stress software. I even got the same temps on my northbridge when idle, it went up a degree C or two when under load though.
My current P4 machine w/ fully internal liquid cooling idles at around 25-30C depending on how warm my room is. If I leave my window open at night it gets VERY cold and sometimes drops to around 20C. I usually top out at around 30-40C under load. That is also dependant on how hot/cold my room is. Again, My cooling systems have so much water in them and have such large radiators they usually stay fairly close to the current environmental conditions. The chipset in this machine gets about 5C warmer than my CPU when idle and under load logically due to it being a series system so it gets all the warm water off the CPU.
You can see pics of my setups if you go to my sig's link.
<A HREF="http://www.folken.net/myrig.htm" target="_new">My precious...</A>
ok
.
Im using a Danger Den RBX Athlon 64 block on my XP until I upgrade - My AXP is @ 3200+ @ 1.73 VCore right now (full load on SETI) I'm getting 40c.
WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG?!
WC Components:
A64 RBX (using no 5 hole thingy)
Hydor L30 Pump
Criticool Water Plant 4" Rez
120*1 RAd.
Only explantion I can think of is that because the 4" rez is really small, alot of air circulates round the loop...thus crap cooling.
It's still better than my old air cooling which I would probably be hitting 50c by now.
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
Air can and will have an effect on your temps. I have put in many hours on 3 different cooling projects lately. One of the cooling systems that I built has an aquarium pump that has an adjustable water flow and air flow. This means that you can adjust it so that it has no air bubbles to as many as you want. Using different flow rates and different air adjustments there is no doubt that air bubbles to any degree have a negative effect. Something to consider is increasing your resivior and buying a pump from a pet shop. You can get one for $20.00 - $40.00 dollars and the cheapest will be alot better than most of the ones that come with these cooling systems. I also bought a water purifier/cooler that holds up to 4 gallons of water. Its intended of course to be used for home water consumption, but at $59.00 you cant beat that price for a combined resivor and built in water chilling system. I have gotten my system as low as 10C under load. Over a 24 hour period, it doesnt get warmer than 22C. THis is cooling an Intel 3.4 775 CPU.
LMAO ive just has a really scary experiance. Ive noticed that as the temp of the water increases less bubbles circulate the loop. Lately I have been staying up all night (tuesday til 5am, wednesday til 4am, and thursday all night) doing coursework. The bubble noise was really annoying me by this time and so today I got a hairdryer and turned it on to the radiator.
The temps start increasing, 40,50,55,60 and the bubble noise became less and les apparent. I decided to see how high I could push the temps so I didn't stop until it reached 80c. By that time the rad was too hot to touch, my clearflex 1/2 tubes were extremly flexable and the pump was really hot too. I went down stairs to get some snap, only to return to see my temps hitting 99c, the pump shutting down and the system crashing.
I don't know is Hydor L30s have thermal protection but the pump refused to operate until the temps went back down an hour and a half later.
HAPPY DAYS!
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
I don't have a clue, although hot air rises and perhaps it was getting caught in the rez instead of cirulating in the loop?
Anyay, as a reward for my coursework completion I'm going to get that maze 4, and redesign my loop - which, hopefully will eliminate my problems.
**PICS ON THG ALBUM SOON TO FOLLOW**
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
I accept.
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
That is a unique little experiment. This is my best guess at what happens to the bubbles. In a closed system such as the air conditioning system in a home, if you start adding freon to the system then you can bet there is a leak. They dont use rubber hose though. On these PC's, we use rubber hose or some similar variation. This type of hose is porus, and as heat is added to the equation the hose starts to expand thus becoming more porus. I think that the warm "Or in your case HOT" water forces the air bubbles out through something like evaporation.
Ive only owned one retail cooling system, but after getting the air bubbles out I didnt have anymore to enter back into the system. Now I have built my on system, and air bubbles are not an issue. My question is; Cant you get the air out of your system? Im asking becasue I would think that if air bubbles are a problem then it might mean that you have a air leak that needs some silicon.
It is the way my rez is set up. Water going in causes too much terbulance causing air to enter at the exit point.
I have no leaks in my system, that's definate.
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
lol, I can't get a drop more in. The way the pipes are set up they drain into the rez filling right up to the top when the pump is turned off.
I intend to sort out all these problems by tomorrow night.
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
A 2 litre soft drink bottle would solve your problem.
I should have been clearer in what I was saying about the leaks. You probably dont have one, your explanation about the pressure makes sense. Just to clear my statement up, what I really meant was that you can have a leak in places like the water block "small crack between the plastic and the heatsink" that are so small that air could get in but water evaporates because of the heat. If this would have been the case, you would never see any liquid in the case.
| Quote : You need to elongate how for the tube goes into the resv. so water is pumped |
That kind of talk could possibly bring WingDing from the depths of the OTHER! Elongated tubes
Im surprised that NED didnt comment on that one.
Thanks for all the replys! May the force be with you all!
You must seek the wisdom of the Jedi Knight known as WingDing!
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
That place has some sort of magic grip. I was stuck down there for about 3 solid weeks. I finally managed to escape, but I doubt that I will ever be the same
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
I've been out for a while now. It doesn't look like I'm missing much either.
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
Ive noticed that you have been up here in the productive section.
I dont know what it is about that OTHER place, but its addictive in some sick way.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
BTW, I had a weak moment this morning and ordered one of the new Thermaltake 680W PSU's. check out these specs- Output: +5V@50A, +3.3V@28A, +12V1@15A, +12V2@15A, +12V3@8A, -5V@1A, -12V@1A, +5VSB@2A
50A on the +5V rail
and it has 3 seperate +12V rails. It better churn out the juice, it only set me back $169.00 "OUCH"
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Holy crap, thats a shiteload of power. Whats your system? Dont you think 680w is a tad overkill? You could weld steel with that.
LOL! I have 2 P4 systems. That thing should power both of them. Im using it on the 3.4 775 setup. Its probably overkill. Im having a bit of buyers remorse. I'll be happy with it as long as it will hold those rails. It should for that much money!
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Make that 2! I just dont mention the poor little 3.0E as often.
BTW, the 3.4 is in the process of going into an ASUS P5AD2-E premium with a couple of sticks of Crucial Ballistix DDR2 PC2-5300.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
The description may be wrong, but it list the PSU as having 3 12V rails.
<A HREF="http:// Thermaltake Silent PurePower 680W Power Supply, Model "W0049 RUD" -RETAIL " target="_new">http:// Thermaltake Silent PurePower 680W Power Supply, Model "W0049 RUD" -RETAIL </A>
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
I just checked Thermaltakes website. It does have a 3rd 12V rail. Thats 38 AMPS total for the 12V rail
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
| Quote : Im having a bit of buyers remorse |
yeh I hate that, ah well it will def last you a VERY long time. Im thinking of getting a new graphics card at the mo...my current 9800pro works fine and yet I still want a better one! Damn computers, once you start to upgrade you cant stop.
No doubt about the upgrading. Its an expensive hobby for me. More like an obsession! Which card are considering? Did you see the post about the 800XL for $350.00? Im thinking about grabbing one.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Yeah, that's it...rub your wads of cash in my face
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
You have the advantage! The only reason that I have the extra cash is because im 32 and single. The college girls want to party, and I just want to go home
Bottom line is-Im all alone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
No man, you're not alone, you have WingDing don't you?
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
If that is the case then I am literally SCREWED!
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
anyway I'm joining the singles club by the looks of it
.
Now...to find WingDing...
[10 Mins later]
...RUN! Oh GOD RUN!!!!!!!
______________
OK it's your choice:
You can have the boat, or you can have the Mystery Box!
...Hey wait a minute! A boat's a boat, but a Mystery Box could be anything. It could even be a boat
I'm just running an old Corsair Hydrocool, It all depends on the room temp for me, but usually nothing more than 7C over ambient temps.
Average room temp is 28C... average load temp is in the 36-40 range. No case fans at all. Have an old P3 cooler pasted to my video card for cooling that. And that's the loadest fan in the room.
<b>"These are my thoughts, your mileage may vary."
Yeah, wanted an easy way to start looking into water cooling. Does a good job, basically silent and cools a tad better than air, without the noise.
Starting to gather info on assembling my own WC. Thinking of finding a big honkin radiator to strap to the backside of my desk.
Something like 4'x2'.. reckon that will work as a passive system?
<b>"These are my thoughts, your mileage may vary."
If you want some ideas on a Do-It -Yourself project send me a PM. You wont beleive some of the crazy stuff ive done lately.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
I've got a desk about 5' long, 3 1/2' deep, 4' high. And the back of it is solid to the floor.
I was thinking some sort of pipe arrangement, basically the whole surface of the back of the desk, as the heater core.
Using the desk as passive cooling. I'd assume I'd need serious pump action to move that amount of water.
Another thought I had...
I have this coleman cooler, that you plug into the wall, for hot or cold. Would putting the rad inside that, buttoning up the holes out the side I'd need to drill for the tubes. Would that chill the water too much, and create condensation?
Just various thoughts I've been tinkin.
<b>"These are my thoughts, your mileage may vary."
Where do you live? What type of climate, cold or hot? You will be surprised at what a fish aquarium pump is capable of pushing. I doubt that you would have to spend more than $35.00 on a pump. Copper tubing is good if you can find some around a junk yard or something of that nature. The hard part about cooling the liquid with some sort of device like your coleman is that the water has to stay in the cooler long enough for it to actually cool. You dont want a really high flow rate to begin with, but chances are that the coleman by itself wouldnt show much improvement. Heres an idea. Most people dont realize this, but a refridgarator is much more effecient when it is full of items. A half full fridge uses more electricty in order to stay cool than a full fridge. Heres my point. Things like Blue ICE packs and even quart, half gallon and gallon jugs filled with water and stuck in the spare parts of your frezzer and fridge will help knock down the electricty bill. If you use these items basically like ice cubes you may find that you can slowly rotate them from your resivior"COLEMAN" to you freezer. Now the freezer is going to lose the effecincy gain because its now working to cool the rotating jugs but it actually just about evens out. This is extreme and not the most practical way to do things, but especially for testing " Extreme OCing" it works very well. If your climate is cooler then you can do something like Folken has done with his system. Look for his name in the forums and click on his sig "MY Precious". He has got some great pics and his setup is as impressive as I have seen.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Check out the outdoor radiator I had on my athlon machine. If you are in a colder area or can just put it in the shade that is a pretty good option. You won't have much computer mobility but with that volume of water and a decent sized radiator you will get good cooling performance.
<A HREF="http://www.folken.net/myrig.htm" target="_new">My precious...</A>
They probably are, but they are so much cheaper if you buy them straight from a pet store. OF course that means that your probably buying individual parts for your liquid cooling system. I think thats the way to go myself.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
I'm thinking about putting water-cooling in my PC aswell (i still had to wait for my money to get on my account from work *rolleyes*) and I looked at the Nexus (got the Nexus Breeze case) website and I saw that they had these really good looking CPU and GPU blocks over there. I hope they will have a complete watercooling set very soon.
<A HREF="http://worldwar3d.com/afmod" target="_new">Half-Life2:Armed Forces</A>
If you like the looks of the water blocks then go ahead and buy them. The rest of the setup is really not hard at all. You can get the pump, hoses, and fittings for under $50.00 and if you need a list of parts and where to get them I will be happy to send you one.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Alright thanks, can you send a list to me of which parts exactly i need?
<A HREF="http://worldwar3d.com/afmod" target="_new">Half-Life2:Armed Forces</A>
Sure, I will put a list together and PM them to you. Then you can check prices in your area. Im sure you will be surprised at how much of a difference in price and performance it will make.
To save us both time, assume I know EVERYTHING
Hope so, my pc shut itself down a couple of days ago, because it was running to hot. I keep my PC running a lot of hours a day, mostly compiling my maps for the Mod im working for. Compiling puts the PC under full load the whole time, and it can take up to 6 hours to compile a map. So I hope watercooling will do the job. Thnx in advance for the list.
<A HREF="http://worldwar3d.com/afmod" target="_new">Half-Life2:Armed Forces</A><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by DeathClock on 02/03/05 09:12 PM.</EM></FONT></P>
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