Front: Two 120mm fans, one is fixed to HDD's module and is blowing through them (it came with the cass) at 1200rpm. One fan at the very bottom, it can blow at 2000+-10%. Both are intake.
Rear: Two 80mm fans at the very bottom at 1500rpm max. One 120mm fan (came with the case) and is at 1200rpm too. All three exhaust.
Top: One 1500rpm 80mm fan, exhaust.
Case floor: Big three-fan-radiator with three 2000rpm fans attached to it, blowing through it and out of the case (the floor had a rather big rectangular hole covered with kind of a grid). So, these are "exhaust" too to a degree.
All fans are connected to a fan controller. What's the easiest, most efficient change I need to make?
The case itself is on wheels, the radiator has some 2cm gap to the case "floor" (grid) and some 7-8cm gap to the surface of the table. When I put my hand under the case floor I notice only a little of bit of air flow (coming out) with fans nearly off, obviously the flow is greater with fans fully on, but never to a degree when air "kick back", at least that's what appearance says.
DONE! It was quite a chore actually, with all the sleeving and cable management to change two fans at opposite sides of the case. Now the 2000RPM 120mm fan is at the top of the back of the case and exhausting. The 1200RPM 120mm fan is at the bottom of the front of the case and intaking.
OK, that won't be too hard, I actually mounted the grid UNDER the case, i.e. took it off and and put back on under the case 'cause I though it was a nice looking part. No problem taking it off. Will do.
This one's nearly impossible: plenty of sleeving is done, radiator is fixed inside the case, unmounting the whole watercooling system ... it's all basically throwing away many-many days work. Does it really make all that much difference?
What if I later install a couple of silent slow 120mm fans underneath the case so they just would take away the "leaking" warm air but not carry much of the water cooling function? (Leaving the 3 fans blowing through the radiator)
Does OC'ing heat the computer radically much more? With room temp at 26C, one core (of the two) fully under load (Prime95) and fans set to minimum RPM's (half of the max basically ), CPU temp is 41C and water temp is 33C.
Yep, the radiator is lying right on the floor (well, maybe a couple of milimeters above - I used small pieces of two-sided sticker to fix it to the floor a bit).
I will now remove the mesh from underneath the case AND the one covering the top-back fan. When I swapped the two fans the system became noisier, I can only attribute that to the more powerfull fan making more noise when blowing through the mesh (and generating less airflow as well).
When all that is done, do I proceed with BIOS tuning (how?) or some more precautions must be taken?
I see. As I see it OC'ing is good for games and over heavy applications and is a 100% BIOS related thing, right?
The DFI BIOS has the "CMOS Reloaded" feature which easilly stores up to 4 BIOS configurations, so I could save the current one as "silent" for generak purpose usage and then have another setup for OC'ing. Do you think it's an OK sollution or once I do overclock I can't / shouldn't change to another setup?
My PC is now reasonably silent and reasonably well cooled. I guess I will have to turn all the fans full on when OC'ing?
I think I'm ready to try doing this. With your expertise of course, 'cause I'm reluctant messing up with frequencies / voltage settings on my own.
I've been running F@H and Prime95 for a few hours now, CPU temp is stable at around 44C (that's under 100% load on both cores), so cooling does not seem to be an issue.
I have also downloaded some utilities: ClockGen for nForce4 SLI boards, THG Dynamic Clock Monitor and CPU-Z.
I have x11 multiplier and FSB=200.5 MHz, CPU voltage is 1.264V
CPU-Z does not show it, but a utility that came with mobo shows that "DRAM voltage" is 2.6V, on OCZ site it says that this version of RAM (DDR400, EL Platinum Rev.2, 2x512MB Dual Channel) is tested and can run safely at 2.9V ... I guess it means I can up it by 0.3V with no worries then?
Update: Using ClockGen I upped the FSB frequency to 210.4MHz for 2314MHz on each core (from the stock 2200), temp has risen a degree or two and is around 45C or 46C (with fans full on). Till when can I overclock and be safe no hardware damage is done? What CPU temp is acceptable?
<font color=red>UPDATE #2:</font color=red> I upped the frequency to 2450 on each core and it hanged, at 2440 it seems to be running fine; everything under 100% load of course. So, that's around 4880MHz total from the stock 4400MHz, is this good, bad, average? Can I improve it somehow? Cooling is doing fine, temp keeps at around 44C or 45C.
What can I and should I do about the PCI-E overclocking? How do I overclock RAM? I know there are separate forums fo this but rather than starting a new thread and describing the whole thing over and over again, I keep it all here.
<font color=red>Update #4:</font color=red> I upped RAM voltage to 2.9V, it's running stable (as it should). But how does it effect the RAM performance, I mean, what specs change with voltage and is there a utility which can show the difference between the two settings?
CPU hanged again at 2450, so 2440 seems to be max. What does changing CPU voltage do?
I'm in desperate need of your expertise, my system seems to be taking extra heat no problem, but why does it freeze then? So, the only real change I've done so far (in the BIOS) is upping the RAM voltage to 2.9 ... is going over it worth it? Will it damage the RAM?