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Color Bleeding on monitor help...

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August 20, 2004 1:00:46 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u in
a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding problems when I
raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.

More about : color bleeding monitor

Anonymous
a b U Graphics card
a b C Monitor
August 20, 2004 7:44:46 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

"Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u
in
> a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding problems when
I
> raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
>
Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously like smearing
in
the video amps.
Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are beyond the
capability
of the machine?
Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production - seeing you
think the levels
are not acceptable with factory settings.
Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
experience what
you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something a person
should
approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it needs. If
that
doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence, or from out
of the box?
(how old is it?)
Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
contributing to
the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your system is
setup?
Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are you
trying
to set them?

Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except maybe a trip
to a repair
or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).

NGA
August 22, 2004 1:31:08 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

It's supposedly two years old, I've tried using different VGA cables, I've
got a Radeon 9600XT with the latest drivers, and have tested other monitors
and didn't have these problems with any color settings. For 9300k, the
settings are: R74 G70 B60 - the way I like them is at R100 G87 B94 (these
are the settings for 9300k color on my Sony which looks much brighter and
better.) I have read a review on the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u which
claims setting these higher than about 90 will cause the color cast issue.
It seems ideally they should be at the factory level but this produces a
gray, dull image. I might be able to get another one of these units to try
out, in which case I'll know if I just got a lemon. Based on the review I
read though, I don't think so. Just now I reset the colors to the default
and then boosted each one by 10. This means each color is safely below 90.
No color bleeding but my white is now a little gray.

"Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
news:o seVc.481376$Gx4.277359@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u
> in
> > a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding problems
when
> I
> > raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
> >
> Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously like
smearing
> in
> the video amps.
> Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are beyond the
> capability
> of the machine?
> Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production - seeing you
> think the levels
> are not acceptable with factory settings.
> Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
> experience what
> you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
> Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something a
person
> should
> approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it needs.
If
> that
> doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence, or from
out
> of the box?
> (how old is it?)
> Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
> contributing to
> the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your system is
> setup?
> Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are you
> trying
> to set them?
>
> Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except maybe a
trip
> to a repair
> or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).
>
> NGA
>
>
Related resources
Anonymous
a b U Graphics card
a b C Monitor
August 22, 2004 3:10:54 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

OK - that helps - sounds like the cathodes may be getting weak (may
become noticeable after about 5k Hours of use). Another factor may
be unbalance in the RGB outputs of your video, or maybe just low
values (less than the somewhat standard 700 mV for peak luminance in
each channel). If the video somehow gets "double terminated", that would
cut the signal amplitude, but it's unusual to have setups today where that
can happen.
These things are difficult to measure unless you have a reasonably
calibrated O'scope. If you can get to try another unit it should really
help you see if yours is typical or not.
I wasn't aware that they shipped a design where driving above "90"
may cause bleeding, but if that's what the reviewer found, its a good
thing to be aware of.

You may also want to be aware that when you alter the settings as you
mention, you are also altering the "color temp" away from 9300k. That
may or may not be important to you. Ideally, the settings are factory set
to compensate for individual variations in tubes - but it's impossible to
compensate for variations in video outputs. If you do change the settings,
and want to try and maintain the same white color, it's best to try and
keep the original proportions of the adjustments. Without instrumentation,
it's impossible to say just what color of white you're really getting.

How are the BRT and Cont settings ranges? Can you adjust BRT so that
the "blackest" part of an image is "just barely visible" for your room
lighting
condition, and then run Cont. up towards 100%, & gain some "brightness"?
If you can't, it may be another indication of weak cathodes.

HTH,
NGA

"Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:waPVc.5013$dB6.4405@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> It's supposedly two years old, I've tried using different VGA cables, I've
> got a Radeon 9600XT with the latest drivers, and have tested other
monitors
> and didn't have these problems with any color settings. For 9300k, the
> settings are: R74 G70 B60 - the way I like them is at R100 G87 B94 (these
> are the settings for 9300k color on my Sony which looks much brighter and
> better.) I have read a review on the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u which
> claims setting these higher than about 90 will cause the color cast issue.
> It seems ideally they should be at the factory level but this produces a
> gray, dull image. I might be able to get another one of these units to try
> out, in which case I'll know if I just got a lemon. Based on the review I
> read though, I don't think so. Just now I reset the colors to the default
> and then boosted each one by 10. This means each color is safely below 90.
> No color bleeding but my white is now a little gray.
>
> "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> news:o seVc.481376$Gx4.277359@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> >
> > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro
2060u
> > in
> > > a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding problems
> when
> > I
> > > raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
> > >
> > Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously like
> smearing
> > in
> > the video amps.
> > Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are beyond the
> > capability
> > of the machine?
> > Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production - seeing you
> > think the levels
> > are not acceptable with factory settings.
> > Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
> > experience what
> > you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
> > Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something a
> person
> > should
> > approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it
needs.
> If
> > that
> > doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence, or from
> out
> > of the box?
> > (how old is it?)
> > Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
> > contributing to
> > the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your system
is
> > setup?
> > Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are you
> > trying
> > to set them?
> >
> > Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except maybe a
> trip
> > to a repair
> > or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).
> >
> > NGA
> >
> >
>
>
August 22, 2004 5:22:10 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

When I went to look at the monitor, there were two units there, and the
first one I looked at had what appeared to be the same problem. There was a
greenish hue on some letters that wasn't supposed to be there. I asked to
look at the second unit which didn't have this problem. I couldn't look at
them side by side so I didn't notice the difference in color settings.

About setting the colors, I did find that by keeping the proportions
balanced between the numbers (based on the original 9300k settings) I was
able to get truer colors. When I used the settings from my other monitor it
wasn't quite balanced.

My brightness and contrast are set to my liking, which is 100 contrast and
71 brightness.

I think the problem is inherent in the design. Right now my color settings
are R95, G90, and B85, which is based on the original R75, G70, and B65 I
think, and its a good tradeoff for right now.

Will I be keeping this monitor? No, and I'm not sure which one to choose
since as far as new monitors go, the Samsumg 957MB has high reviews but is a
shadow mask tube, vs. aperture grill which everyone says is better for
color-critical demands. Second to that is the NEC/Mitsubishi Diamondtron
monitor, which is aperture grill, which I am considering getting, although
it has a lower rating. So I am confused. I don't think Samsung even makes
21" monitors anyway.

"Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
news:2EQVc.492300$Gx4.377996@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> OK - that helps - sounds like the cathodes may be getting weak (may
> become noticeable after about 5k Hours of use). Another factor may
> be unbalance in the RGB outputs of your video, or maybe just low
> values (less than the somewhat standard 700 mV for peak luminance in
> each channel). If the video somehow gets "double terminated", that would
> cut the signal amplitude, but it's unusual to have setups today where that
> can happen.
> These things are difficult to measure unless you have a reasonably
> calibrated O'scope. If you can get to try another unit it should really
> help you see if yours is typical or not.
> I wasn't aware that they shipped a design where driving above "90"
> may cause bleeding, but if that's what the reviewer found, its a good
> thing to be aware of.
>
> You may also want to be aware that when you alter the settings as you
> mention, you are also altering the "color temp" away from 9300k. That
> may or may not be important to you. Ideally, the settings are factory set
> to compensate for individual variations in tubes - but it's impossible to
> compensate for variations in video outputs. If you do change the settings,
> and want to try and maintain the same white color, it's best to try and
> keep the original proportions of the adjustments. Without instrumentation,
> it's impossible to say just what color of white you're really getting.
>
> How are the BRT and Cont settings ranges? Can you adjust BRT so that
> the "blackest" part of an image is "just barely visible" for your room
> lighting
> condition, and then run Cont. up towards 100%, & gain some "brightness"?
> If you can't, it may be another indication of weak cathodes.
>
> HTH,
> NGA
>
> "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:waPVc.5013$dB6.4405@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > It's supposedly two years old, I've tried using different VGA cables,
I've
> > got a Radeon 9600XT with the latest drivers, and have tested other
> monitors
> > and didn't have these problems with any color settings. For 9300k, the
> > settings are: R74 G70 B60 - the way I like them is at R100 G87 B94
(these
> > are the settings for 9300k color on my Sony which looks much brighter
and
> > better.) I have read a review on the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u which
> > claims setting these higher than about 90 will cause the color cast
issue.
> > It seems ideally they should be at the factory level but this produces a
> > gray, dull image. I might be able to get another one of these units to
try
> > out, in which case I'll know if I just got a lemon. Based on the review
I
> > read though, I don't think so. Just now I reset the colors to the
default
> > and then boosted each one by 10. This means each color is safely below
90.
> > No color bleeding but my white is now a little gray.
> >
> > "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> > news:o seVc.481376$Gx4.277359@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > >
> > > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > > news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > > I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro
> 2060u
> > > in
> > > > a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding
problems
> > when
> > > I
> > > > raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
> > > >
> > > Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously like
> > smearing
> > > in
> > > the video amps.
> > > Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are beyond
the
> > > capability
> > > of the machine?
> > > Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production - seeing
you
> > > think the levels
> > > are not acceptable with factory settings.
> > > Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
> > > experience what
> > > you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
> > > Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something a
> > person
> > > should
> > > approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it
> needs.
> > If
> > > that
> > > doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence, or
from
> > out
> > > of the box?
> > > (how old is it?)
> > > Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
> > > contributing to
> > > the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your system
> is
> > > setup?
> > > Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are you
> > > trying
> > > to set them?
> > >
> > > Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except maybe
a
> > trip
> > > to a repair
> > > or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).
> > >
> > > NGA
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Anonymous
a b U Graphics card
a b C Monitor
August 22, 2004 9:49:21 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

OK, sounds to like there is a shortcoming in the monitor manufacturing
or design process (or maybe both).

As a by-point, when you run BRT so high (generally) it will tend to
desaturate
the colors, but should not affect white. That's the basis of my
recommendation
for adjusting it - but then perhaps you do need to set it that high for your
particular conditions.

I haven't been tracking CRT monitors lately 'cause my present position has
me concentrating on LCD's, so I'm not up on who is still making the larger
CRT's. There is a definite trend, though, of discontinuing CRT's in general,
starting with the lowest demand sizes (which are the larger ones). It will
just continue to put you into that awkward position of not being able to
find
the kind of display that you really prefer. Sadly that's the way market
forces
(user buying trends) are moving. Trying to change that is like "tilting at
windmills", as the old saying goes.

Regards,
NGA

"Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:6zSVc.7720$LV1.5129@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> When I went to look at the monitor, there were two units there, and the
> first one I looked at had what appeared to be the same problem. There was
a
> greenish hue on some letters that wasn't supposed to be there. I asked to
> look at the second unit which didn't have this problem. I couldn't look at
> them side by side so I didn't notice the difference in color settings.
>
> About setting the colors, I did find that by keeping the proportions
> balanced between the numbers (based on the original 9300k settings) I was
> able to get truer colors. When I used the settings from my other monitor
it
> wasn't quite balanced.
>
> My brightness and contrast are set to my liking, which is 100 contrast and
> 71 brightness.
>
> I think the problem is inherent in the design. Right now my color settings
> are R95, G90, and B85, which is based on the original R75, G70, and B65 I
> think, and its a good tradeoff for right now.
>
> Will I be keeping this monitor? No, and I'm not sure which one to choose
> since as far as new monitors go, the Samsumg 957MB has high reviews but is
a
> shadow mask tube, vs. aperture grill which everyone says is better for
> color-critical demands. Second to that is the NEC/Mitsubishi Diamondtron
> monitor, which is aperture grill, which I am considering getting, although
> it has a lower rating. So I am confused. I don't think Samsung even makes
> 21" monitors anyway.
>
> "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> news:2EQVc.492300$Gx4.377996@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > OK - that helps - sounds like the cathodes may be getting weak (may
> > become noticeable after about 5k Hours of use). Another factor may
> > be unbalance in the RGB outputs of your video, or maybe just low
> > values (less than the somewhat standard 700 mV for peak luminance in
> > each channel). If the video somehow gets "double terminated", that would
> > cut the signal amplitude, but it's unusual to have setups today where
that
> > can happen.
> > These things are difficult to measure unless you have a reasonably
> > calibrated O'scope. If you can get to try another unit it should really
> > help you see if yours is typical or not.
> > I wasn't aware that they shipped a design where driving above "90"
> > may cause bleeding, but if that's what the reviewer found, its a good
> > thing to be aware of.
> >
> > You may also want to be aware that when you alter the settings as you
> > mention, you are also altering the "color temp" away from 9300k. That
> > may or may not be important to you. Ideally, the settings are factory
set
> > to compensate for individual variations in tubes - but it's impossible
to
> > compensate for variations in video outputs. If you do change the
settings,
> > and want to try and maintain the same white color, it's best to try and
> > keep the original proportions of the adjustments. Without
instrumentation,
> > it's impossible to say just what color of white you're really getting.
> >
> > How are the BRT and Cont settings ranges? Can you adjust BRT so that
> > the "blackest" part of an image is "just barely visible" for your room
> > lighting
> > condition, and then run Cont. up towards 100%, & gain some "brightness"?
> > If you can't, it may be another indication of weak cathodes.
> >
> > HTH,
> > NGA
> >
> > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > news:waPVc.5013$dB6.4405@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > It's supposedly two years old, I've tried using different VGA cables,
> I've
> > > got a Radeon 9600XT with the latest drivers, and have tested other
> > monitors
> > > and didn't have these problems with any color settings. For 9300k, the
> > > settings are: R74 G70 B60 - the way I like them is at R100 G87 B94
> (these
> > > are the settings for 9300k color on my Sony which looks much brighter
> and
> > > better.) I have read a review on the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u
which
> > > claims setting these higher than about 90 will cause the color cast
> issue.
> > > It seems ideally they should be at the factory level but this produces
a
> > > gray, dull image. I might be able to get another one of these units to
> try
> > > out, in which case I'll know if I just got a lemon. Based on the
review
> I
> > > read though, I don't think so. Just now I reset the colors to the
> default
> > > and then boosted each one by 10. This means each color is safely below
> 90.
> > > No color bleeding but my white is now a little gray.
> > >
> > > "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> > > news:o seVc.481376$Gx4.277359@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > > >
> > > > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > > > I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro
> > 2060u
> > > > in
> > > > > a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding
> problems
> > > when
> > > > I
> > > > > raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
> > > > >
> > > > Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously like
> > > smearing
> > > > in
> > > > the video amps.
> > > > Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are beyond
> the
> > > > capability
> > > > of the machine?
> > > > Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production - seeing
> you
> > > > think the levels
> > > > are not acceptable with factory settings.
> > > > Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
> > > > experience what
> > > > you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
> > > > Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something a
> > > person
> > > > should
> > > > approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it
> > needs.
> > > If
> > > > that
> > > > doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence, or
> from
> > > out
> > > > of the box?
> > > > (how old is it?)
> > > > Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
> > > > contributing to
> > > > the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your
system
> > is
> > > > setup?
> > > > Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are
you
> > > > trying
> > > > to set them?
> > > >
> > > > Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except
maybe
> a
> > > trip
> > > > to a repair
> > > > or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).
> > > >
> > > > NGA
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
August 23, 2004 3:32:46 AM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

The monitor I'm looking at is the NEC/Mitsubishi FE2111SB 22" SuperBright
Diamontron, although Ilyama and Viewsonic both have very similar offerings.
Does anyone have any recommendations?

"Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
news:B05Wc.235854$OB3.103931@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> OK, sounds to like there is a shortcoming in the monitor manufacturing
> or design process (or maybe both).
>
> As a by-point, when you run BRT so high (generally) it will tend to
> desaturate
> the colors, but should not affect white. That's the basis of my
> recommendation
> for adjusting it - but then perhaps you do need to set it that high for
your
> particular conditions.
>
> I haven't been tracking CRT monitors lately 'cause my present position has
> me concentrating on LCD's, so I'm not up on who is still making the larger
> CRT's. There is a definite trend, though, of discontinuing CRT's in
general,
> starting with the lowest demand sizes (which are the larger ones). It will
> just continue to put you into that awkward position of not being able to
> find
> the kind of display that you really prefer. Sadly that's the way market
> forces
> (user buying trends) are moving. Trying to change that is like "tilting at
> windmills", as the old saying goes.
>
> Regards,
> NGA
>
> "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:6zSVc.7720$LV1.5129@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> > When I went to look at the monitor, there were two units there, and the
> > first one I looked at had what appeared to be the same problem. There
was
> a
> > greenish hue on some letters that wasn't supposed to be there. I asked
to
> > look at the second unit which didn't have this problem. I couldn't look
at
> > them side by side so I didn't notice the difference in color settings.
> >
> > About setting the colors, I did find that by keeping the proportions
> > balanced between the numbers (based on the original 9300k settings) I
was
> > able to get truer colors. When I used the settings from my other monitor
> it
> > wasn't quite balanced.
> >
> > My brightness and contrast are set to my liking, which is 100 contrast
and
> > 71 brightness.
> >
> > I think the problem is inherent in the design. Right now my color
settings
> > are R95, G90, and B85, which is based on the original R75, G70, and B65
I
> > think, and its a good tradeoff for right now.
> >
> > Will I be keeping this monitor? No, and I'm not sure which one to choose
> > since as far as new monitors go, the Samsumg 957MB has high reviews but
is
> a
> > shadow mask tube, vs. aperture grill which everyone says is better for
> > color-critical demands. Second to that is the NEC/Mitsubishi Diamondtron
> > monitor, which is aperture grill, which I am considering getting,
although
> > it has a lower rating. So I am confused. I don't think Samsung even
makes
> > 21" monitors anyway.
> >
> > "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> > news:2EQVc.492300$Gx4.377996@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > > OK - that helps - sounds like the cathodes may be getting weak (may
> > > become noticeable after about 5k Hours of use). Another factor may
> > > be unbalance in the RGB outputs of your video, or maybe just low
> > > values (less than the somewhat standard 700 mV for peak luminance in
> > > each channel). If the video somehow gets "double terminated", that
would
> > > cut the signal amplitude, but it's unusual to have setups today where
> that
> > > can happen.
> > > These things are difficult to measure unless you have a reasonably
> > > calibrated O'scope. If you can get to try another unit it should
really
> > > help you see if yours is typical or not.
> > > I wasn't aware that they shipped a design where driving above "90"
> > > may cause bleeding, but if that's what the reviewer found, its a good
> > > thing to be aware of.
> > >
> > > You may also want to be aware that when you alter the settings as
you
> > > mention, you are also altering the "color temp" away from 9300k. That
> > > may or may not be important to you. Ideally, the settings are factory
> set
> > > to compensate for individual variations in tubes - but it's impossible
> to
> > > compensate for variations in video outputs. If you do change the
> settings,
> > > and want to try and maintain the same white color, it's best to try
and
> > > keep the original proportions of the adjustments. Without
> instrumentation,
> > > it's impossible to say just what color of white you're really getting.
> > >
> > > How are the BRT and Cont settings ranges? Can you adjust BRT so
that
> > > the "blackest" part of an image is "just barely visible" for your room
> > > lighting
> > > condition, and then run Cont. up towards 100%, & gain some
"brightness"?
> > > If you can't, it may be another indication of weak cathodes.
> > >
> > > HTH,
> > > NGA
> > >
> > > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > > news:waPVc.5013$dB6.4405@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > > It's supposedly two years old, I've tried using different VGA
cables,
> > I've
> > > > got a Radeon 9600XT with the latest drivers, and have tested other
> > > monitors
> > > > and didn't have these problems with any color settings. For 9300k,
the
> > > > settings are: R74 G70 B60 - the way I like them is at R100 G87 B94
> > (these
> > > > are the settings for 9300k color on my Sony which looks much
brighter
> > and
> > > > better.) I have read a review on the Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2060u
> which
> > > > claims setting these higher than about 90 will cause the color cast
> > issue.
> > > > It seems ideally they should be at the factory level but this
produces
> a
> > > > gray, dull image. I might be able to get another one of these units
to
> > try
> > > > out, in which case I'll know if I just got a lemon. Based on the
> review
> > I
> > > > read though, I don't think so. Just now I reset the colors to the
> > default
> > > > and then boosted each one by 10. This means each color is safely
below
> > 90.
> > > > No color bleeding but my white is now a little gray.
> > > >
> > > > "Not Gimpy Anymore" <nospamREMOVplease@msn.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:o seVc.481376$Gx4.277359@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> > > > >
> > > > > "Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > > > > news:2y8Vc.39690$SC1.9824@nwrddc03.gnilink.net...
> > > > > > I have a Compaq P1210 Monitor, supposedly a Mitsubishi Diamond
Pro
> > > 2060u
> > > > > in
> > > > > > a Compaq case, anyway its driving me mad with color bleeding
> > problems
> > > > when
> > > > > I
> > > > > > raise the RGB settings to acceptable levels. Please help.
> > > > > >
> > > > > Sounds like you may be overdriving it - sounds suspiciously
like
> > > > smearing
> > > > > in
> > > > > the video amps.
> > > > > Is it possible what you think are "acceptable levels" are
beyond
> > the
> > > > > capability
> > > > > of the machine?
> > > > > Or maybe it was not set up right initially in production -
seeing
> > you
> > > > > think the levels
> > > > > are not acceptable with factory settings.
> > > > > Typically a monitor should not be designed to allow the user to
> > > > > experience what
> > > > > you're mentioning, but I can't comment on this specific one.
> > > > > Adjusting or setting variables inside the case is not something
a
> > > > person
> > > > > should
> > > > > approach casually, or without instruments. But that may be what it
> > > needs.
> > > > If
> > > > > that
> > > > > doesn't work, maybe the tube is sour. Is it a recent occurrence,
or
> > from
> > > > out
> > > > > of the box?
> > > > > (how old is it?)
> > > > > Is there maybe something about your system setup that might be
> > > > > contributing to
> > > > > the smearing? Anything specifically atypical about the way your
> system
> > > is
> > > > > setup?
> > > > > Where were the RGB settings when you received it, and where are
> you
> > > > > trying
> > > > > to set them?
> > > > >
> > > > > Having said all that - I'm not sure there is any help except
> maybe
> > a
> > > > trip
> > > > > to a repair
> > > > > or re-cal. facility (depending on the answers to ?'s above).
> > > > >
> > > > > NGA
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Anonymous
a b U Graphics card
a b C Monitor
August 23, 2004 1:00:36 PM

Archived from groups: comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video (More info?)

"Asterix" <alon.wolman@verizon.net> wrote:

>The monitor I'm looking at is the NEC/Mitsubishi FE2111SB 22" SuperBright
>Diamontron, although Ilyama and Viewsonic both have very similar offerings.
>Does anyone have any recommendations?

Yes. I recommend that you stop top posting, or at least start
trimming. 230 lines for that?
!