Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.videocards.ati (
More info?)
<borolad@myowseintheboro.org> wrote in message
news:js1f90ds6ebaooofbg2qg5kq71kpfsq7q5@4ax.com...
> On 4 May 2004 02:15:45 -0700, superxml@yahoo.com (Dark Avenger) wrote:
>
> >Slug <slug@no_email.here> wrote in message
news:<av7d90lkrje1q6dcso31glu8pvojlqfq4j@4ax.com>...
> >> On 3 May 2004 05:48:01 -0700, superxml@yahoo.com (Dark Avenger) wrote:
>
> >> >Zalman advices to use "quite an ammount" of cooling stuff! And with
> >> >"quite an ammount" it means quite more then you put on a cpu. Basicly,
> >> >as the booklet says..put the heatsink base on after applying the
> >> >cooling stuff on the gpu... then take it of to see IF there is cooling
> >> >stuff on the heatsink, if cooling stuff is on the heatsink you used
> >> >enough..if not..you need to use more!
>
> >> >Seems easy enough not?
>
> >> Filling up a gap with thermal paste is not a method I personally would
> >> like to use. I thought I Zalman designed the ZM80C-HP to overcome
> >> this issue on the Radeon 9800pro but maybe I am wrong.
>
> >The shim of the 9800 Pro is about on the same level as the gpu, so it
> >should work
, but yes..you can remove the shim....
>
>
> The frame plate around the chip supports the heatsink, care therefore
> when you mount anything on the GPU without that support.
>
> The frame plate does not transfer much heat. Do not apply paste to the
> frame as this will give no heat reduction but will increase the
> distance [ dis-benefit ] twixt slug & H/S.
>
> The top of the GPU slug to the bottom of the heatsink does the
> transfer work. There is a 002" ( ish ) gap twixt frame & H/S so this
> needs to be filled or no real transfer can take place.
>
> Personally I'd use a thermal pad, but if you must use grease apply a
> very small dab to the centre of the H/S first and rub it well into the
> pores with your finger inside a clean oil free plastic bag. When the
> centre area is a ' dull glaze ' that part is done - do not polish it
> shiny, leave it as it is.
>
> Then the slug, first repeat the ' finger in bag ' on the slug and then
> put a bigger dab of grease in the centre of the slug and spread evenly
> over the whole surface area, a razor blade works fine.
>
> If you lack confidence get a small piece of square balsa wood the size
> of the frame push the blade through the wood so it's just ' proud '
> then resting the wood on both sides of the frame draw it gently over
> the slug you should have both the ' even ' & ' the whole surface '.
>
> BoroLad
You ARE kidding right? Making the paste thickness even
to the top of the spacer? Might as well leave the stock
heatsink on!
Pop that spacer right off. Its there for mass
production reasons, it prevents the Chinese
or Tiawanese assemblers from damaging too many
cores banging the boards around on the assembly line
after the HSF is added.
The ATI core is no more delicate than any other
CPU core and should be treated with the same
respect. banging on the corners is not suggested.
Properly aligning and placing a aftermarket HSF
should result in no damage. Banging away at things
and cranking things down like your working on an
engine block may result in damage and believe me thats
what happens on a board assembly line.
More "cooling stuff" is just as bad as not enough
"cooling stuff". Cooling stuff is there to smooth out
and fill the slight depressions on the surface of the
core and/or HSF and loses its effectivity when
gobbed or gooped on. Thats why so many stock units
develop artifacting or hang when overclocked (or not).
ATI used thermal conductive pink goop pads to
compensate for the need of a shim to protect the cores
during manufacturing and post manufacturing handling.
These boards probably see one pass of functional test
before they ship so they never get a chance to get up
to temperature, and the pink goop never really activates
until its in your machine and you play UT2K4 at high
detail for a couple hours... then it heats up, spreads out
looses what little efficiency it had and your video goes
blooey because the core to HSF contact has deteriorated.
The shim can leave a quite a gap, unacceptable if you are
going to use ANY aftermarket cooler (IMHO) at decent
efficiency unless it is specifically machined with a inset
to fit over the shim (I've seen a couple custom ones -
waste of good CNC run time). Don't waste your money if
your not going to use the equipment at its design potentual.
If your afraid of cracking your core you shouldn't
be messing with after market cooling...it voids your
warrantee you know.
--
><{{ MudFish (Co30){('>
www.Co30.com
"Careful with that Axe Eugene."
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