Making Camera Power Supply from ATX PS

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
specs:

"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
maximum power usage.
Power sources include the following:
.. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
.. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
.. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."

HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
provides 3.3 Volts.

A marking on the camera assigns the + polarity to the center connector
of the jack, and it's a small jack.

Q1: What do you call that kind of jack?

Q2: Computer ATX power supplies have a 3.3 V line. I have some old
unused power supplies (and I can buy them nearby for $5). Can I use an
ATX power supply to power the camera?

My understanding of an ATX is that normally one of the 5 V wires is
always on but the rest of the lines are controlled by a soft switch fed
to one of the wires.

Q3: What do I do exactly to turn on the power supply? Do I ground pin
14? (http://www.pavouk.comp.cz/hw/en_atxps.html pin out diagram scroll
down)

Q4: Will this camera, or camera's that require 3.3 V in general , work
on the 3 V (setting of the) power supplies like Wal-Mart sells
http://snipurl.com/fd4t?

Q5: I see some universal adapters
http://www.clubmac.com/clubmac/shop/detail~dpno~339148.asp " Equipped
with technology to calculate your camera's voltage " How does it
determine the camera's voltage requirements?

--
|||||||||||||||| Nehmo Sergheyev ||||||||||||||||
16 answers Last reply
More about making camera power supply
  1. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:
    > I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    > specs:
    >
    > "Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    > maximum power usage.
    > Power sources include the following:
    > . Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
    > rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
    > batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
    > power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
    > the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
    > . Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
    > . Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
    > Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
    > HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."
    >
    > HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
    > HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
    > provides 3.3 Volts.

    <snip>
    although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...

    $50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    camera and purchase a seperate charger.

    it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
  2. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    Radio Shack
    3-6.5VDC/2500mA AC-to-DC Adapter
    Catalog # 273-1695

    Dave
  3. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    In article <svadnX-swLeEuj_fRVn-sQ@athenet.net>,
    philo <philo@privacy.net> wrote:
    >Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:
    >> I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    >> specs:
    >>
    >> "Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    >> maximum power usage.
    >> Power sources include the following:
    >> . Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
    >> rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
    >> batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
    >> power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
    >> the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
    >> . Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
    >> . Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
    >> Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
    >> HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."
    >>
    >> HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
    >> HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
    >> provides 3.3 Volts.
    >
    ><snip>
    >although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >
    >$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >
    >it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do


    A PC power supply needs a minimum load so it won't power just
    your camera. I also don't know how you'd turn it on since
    it's controlled from the mobo.

    Look for a power supply on ebay or go to Radio Shack. They sell
    wall warts in all sorts of sizes.


    --
    a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m

    Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
  4. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 21:36:27 GMT, "Nehmo Sergheyev"
    <nehmo54@hotmail.com> wrote:

    >I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    >specs:
    >
    >"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    >maximum power usage.
    >Power sources include the following:
    >. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
    >rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
    >batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
    >power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
    >the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
    >. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
    >. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
    >Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
    >HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."
    >
    >HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
    >HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
    >provides 3.3 Volts.


    They overprice it just a wee bit.


    >
    >A marking on the camera assigns the + polarity to the center connector
    >of the jack, and it's a small jack.

    "Tis the far more common arrangement but it's good that they
    marked it.


    >
    >Q1: What do you call that kind of jack?

    Hard to tell from a picture but looks like a typical power
    brick barrel, coax plug. Main thing is knowing the external
    and internal dimensions in millimeters, and the tiny ones
    are harder to measure, and find.


    >
    >Q2: Computer ATX power supplies have a 3.3 V line. I have some old
    >unused power supplies (and I can buy them nearby for $5). Can I use an
    >ATX power supply to power the camera?

    It'd be awefully bulky, but it's likely you can. However,
    you should put a certain minimum load on the 5V rail to
    stabilize the output. A 2 Ohm 10W power resistor should be
    sufficient, connected between the 5V rail and ground- either
    on one of the leads or inside the PSU if you feel competent
    inside a power supply to figure that out- if not I'm not
    going to tell you how to do it, but it isn't hard, just
    fiddly taking the thing apart to do it.


    >
    >My understanding of an ATX is that normally one of the 5 V wires is
    >always on but the rest of the lines are controlled by a soft switch fed
    >to one of the wires.

    Yes 5VSB is always on, as is the PS-On line. You can ignore
    the 5VSB and simply short the PS-On to a ground. If you
    were opening up the power supply anyway to add the resistor,
    I'd suggest drilling a hole in the casing and installing a
    switch to short the two wires, turn it on/off.


    >
    >Q3: What do I do exactly to turn on the power supply? Do I ground pin
    >14? (http://www.pavouk.comp.cz/hw/en_atxps.html pin out diagram scroll
    >down)

    yes, it's pin 14, usually a green wire.

    http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif

    >
    >Q4: Will this camera, or camera's that require 3.3 V in general , work
    >on the 3 V (setting of the) power supplies like Wal-Mart sells
    >http://snipurl.com/fd4t?
    >

    I don't know.
    The camera may have polarity protection, meaning you may
    easily need slightly more than 3.0V to get a pair of
    batteries charged fully.

    The other issue is the current capacity of the supply, the
    one you linked doesn't appear to have that listed.

    Since the HP supply is spec'd as 2.5 amps, that would be the
    general target... the camera might still work on less, maybe
    1.5A, but then there's the issue of what the supply does if
    it drops below any particular threshold voltage. I'd not
    risk a camera with a less than 2A supply, myself.

    >Q5: I see some universal adapters
    >http://www.clubmac.com/clubmac/shop/detail~dpno~339148.asp " Equipped
    >with technology to calculate your camera's voltage " How does it
    >determine the camera's voltage requirements?

    I don't know but I'd go ahead and get one spec'd for 3.3V
    instead. Here's one, but you'd need come up with your own
    plug for it,

    http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=480&item=PS-334&type=store

    Maybe this'd be helpful,
    http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=123&item=PLG-6&type=store
    but getting good measurements from the jack first would be
    best.

    Seems like I used to have an old electric shaver and a
    microcassette recorder that both used similarly small
    connectors, if you have such spare junk lying around it
    might provide a part or aid in measurements.
  5. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    "Nehmo Sergheyev" <nehmo54@hotmail.com> wrote in message
    news:v9poe.8252$lI2.7908@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
    > I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    > specs:
    >
    > "Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    > maximum power usage.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50486&item=7521230305&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
  6. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
    because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
    <philo@privacy.net> wrote :


    >although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >
    >$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >
    >it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do

    Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin>).The two
    digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
    downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port :D

    Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
    connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
    fully charged Camera :D

    Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
    batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG> :)


    --
    Free Windows/PC help,
    http://www.geocities.com/sheppola/trouble.html
  7. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    Shep© wrote:
    > On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
    > because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
    > <philo@privacy.net> wrote :
    >
    >
    >
    >>although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >>supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >>as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >>
    >>$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >>you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >>however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >>camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >>
    >>it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
    >
    >
    > Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin>).The two
    > digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
    > downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port :D
    >
    > Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
    > connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
    > fully charged Camera :D
    >
    > Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
    > batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG> :)

    Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
    and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
    paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
    Thanks, mike


    --
    Return address is VALID but some sites block emails
    with links. Delete this sig when replying.
    ..
    Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
    FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
    Wanted 12" LCD for Compaq Armada 7770MT.
    Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
    MAKE THE OBVIOUS CHANGES TO THE LINK
    ht<removethis>tp://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/
  8. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    Al Dykes wrote:

    >><snip>
    >>although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >>supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >>as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >>
    >>$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >>you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >>however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >>camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >>
    >>it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
    >
    >
    > A PC power supply needs a minimum load so it won't power just
    > your camera. I also don't know how you'd turn it on since
    > it's controlled from the mobo.

    to turn on an ATX supply all you need to do is touch the green wire to
    ground...
    but i still would not adivse doing such
    >
    > Look for a power supply on ebay or go to Radio Shack. They sell
    > wall warts in all sorts of sizes.
    >
    >
    >
  9. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    "Al Dykes" <adykes@panix.com> wrote in message
    news:d7tjlb$qbp$1@panix5.panix.com...
    > In article <svadnX-swLeEuj_fRVn-sQ@athenet.net>,
    > philo <philo@privacy.net> wrote:
    > >Nehmo Sergheyev wrote:
    > >> I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    > >> specs:
    > >>
    > >> "Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    > >> maximum power usage.
    > >> Power sources include the following:
    > >> . Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
    > >> rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
    > >> batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP
    AC
    > >> power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
    > >> the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
    > >> . Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
    > >> . Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
    > >> Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
    > >> HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."
    > >>
    > >> HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
    > >> HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
    > >> provides 3.3 Volts.
    > >
    > ><snip>
    > >although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    > >supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    > >as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    > >
    > >$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    > >you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    > >however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    > >camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    > >
    > >it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
    >


    I think I have some random 3.3v SMPS "wall wart" type AC adapters, you'd
    probably have to put your own plug on it but if you want one I'd be happy to
    send one for a couple bucks to cover packing plus postage.
  10. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 19:49:00 -0700, Kevin McMurtrie
    <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote:


    >> >Switching power supplies can get twitchy outside of a their normal load
    >> >range. I wouldn't connect one to my camera without doing some stability
    >> >tests first.
    >>
    >> You're not likely to find a non-switching regulated adapter
    >> worth the 2.5A of the one HP sells, and certainly not at
    >> $30. Almost all semi-regulated adapter in smaller forms
    >> supplying 1.5A or more will be switching.
    >
    >I didn't say that a switching power supply was bad. Nearly all of the
    >good wall warts are of that kind. The problem is that switching power
    >supplies are unstable by nature so they sometimes have an operating load
    >range. An computer power supply designed to deliver 3.3v @ 10A to 50A
    >might not be stable with a load that varies from 1mA to 1500mA.

    Ah, I misinterpreted what you wrote. That's true, normally
    one puts a ~ 2A load on the 5V rail to ensure stabilization,
    but it gets much more risky with open-frame swichers, those
    not intended for non-integrated usage, not to be hot-plugged
    (not that any are, but those with consumer-gear external
    cords tend to be designed with such events in mind).
  11. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    In article <d7tjlb$qbp$1@panix5.panix.com>, adykes@panix.com says...
    > a d y k e s @ p a n i x . c o m
    >
    > Don't blame me. I voted for Gore.
    >
    ==============

    OT, but just had to comment. It is indeed your fault. You should have
    voted for somebody else entirely, like I did. Enough of those, and we
    would have won. Bush and Gore BOTH were losers! There were other
    choices.
  12. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 00:57:18 -0700 If I have seen farther it is
    because I have stood on the shoulder of giants mike
    <spamme0@netscape.net> wrote :

    >Shep© wrote:
    >> On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
    >> because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
    >> <philo@privacy.net> wrote :
    >>
    >>
    >>
    >>>although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >>>supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >>>as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >>>
    >>>$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >>>you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >>>however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >>>camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >>>
    >>>it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
    >>
    >>
    >> Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin>).The two
    >> digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
    >> downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port :D
    >>
    >> Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
    >> connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
    >> fully charged Camera :D
    >>
    >> Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
    >> batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG> :)
    >
    >Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
    >and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
    >paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
    >Thanks, mike

    Sorry.My mistake they are the Nickel Metal Hydride type which are
    still better than the old Ni-cads.

    They are the newer common colour Green type in the UK and you can get
    them quite a few places.I bought some and a fast charger at a local
    market but also, ebay,
    http://search.ebay.co.uk/aa-rechargeable-batteries_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40
    They don't suffer from the old memory problem of the ni-cads AFAIK :)

    I now have a habit of leaving my digi camera at the side of my PC
    plugged in for a session after downloading piccys and the haven't used
    the wall charger for ages for the camera :)


    --
    Free Windows/PC help,
    http://www.geocities.com/sheppola/trouble.html
  13. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 18:48:35 +0100 If I have seen farther it is
    because I have stood on the shoulder of giants Shep©
    <nospam@nospam.com> wrote :

    >On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 00:57:18 -0700 If I have seen farther it is
    >because I have stood on the shoulder of giants mike
    ><spamme0@netscape.net> wrote :
    >
    >>Shep© wrote:
    >>> On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 17:11:37 -0500 If I have seen farther it is
    >>> because I have stood on the shoulder of giants philo
    >>> <philo@privacy.net> wrote :
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>
    >>>>although in theory you could use the 3.3v connection of an atx
    >>>>supply...i don't think it would be worth trying to do so...
    >>>>as if you made a mistake you could damage your expensive camera...
    >>>>
    >>>>$50 for that adaptor is of course absurd...
    >>>>you could prob. find something at radio shack that would work...
    >>>>however...why not play it safe and simply remove the batteries from the
    >>>>camera and purchase a seperate charger.
    >>>>
    >>>>it would certainly be the cheapest and safest thing to do
    >>>
    >>>
    >>> Not a lot of people know this(In fact I think only me<grin>).The two
    >>> digi cameras I've had if I leave them connected to the PC after
    >>> downloading piccys to the PC get trickle charged by the USB port :D
    >>>
    >>> Noticed when I left PC on overnight for downloading but left camera
    >>> connected and knew batteries were low.Came back on the morrow to find
    >>> fully charged Camera :D
    >>>
    >>> Also I think it's cheaper to buy and use Li-on re-charegable AA
    >>> batteries and a good wall charger(Or a PC<BFG> :)
    >>
    >>Please disclose your source for Li-on re-chargeable AA batteries
    >>and a charger for same. Please also disclose the prices you've been
    >>paying and your actual personal experience with the setup.
    >>Thanks, mike
    >
    >Sorry.My mistake they are the Nickel Metal Hydride type which are
    >still better than the old Ni-cads.
    >
    >They are the newer common colour Green type in the UK and you can get
    >them quite a few places.I bought some and a fast charger at a local
    >market but also, ebay,
    >http://search.ebay.co.uk/aa-rechargeable-batteries_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40
    >They don't suffer from the old memory problem of the ni-cads AFAIK :)
    >
    >I now have a habit of leaving my digi camera at the side of my PC
    >plugged in for a session after downloading piccys and the haven't used
    >the wall charger for ages for the camera :)

    PS I got the 2500Mh ones :)


    --
    Free Windows/PC help,
    http://www.geocities.com/sheppola/trouble.html
  14. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 21:36:27 GMT, "Nehmo Sergheyev"
    <nehmo54@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

    >I have a HP M22 camera http://snipurl.com/fd13 , and here are its power
    >specs:
    >
    >"Typical power usage: 1.35 Watts with Image Display on. 2.9 Watts
    >maximum power usage.
    >Power sources include the following:
    >. Either two non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries (included) or two
    >rechargeable AA NiMH batteries (purchased separately). Rechargeable
    >batteries can be recharged either in the camera using the optional HP AC
    >power adapter or optional HP Photosmart M-series dock, or separately in
    >the optional HP Photosmart Quick Recharger.
    >. Optional HP AC power adapter (3.3 Vdc, 2500 mA, 8.25 W).
    >. Optional HP Photosmart M-series dock.
    >Recharging in camera with the optional HP AC power adapter or optional
    >HP Photosmart M-series dock: 100% in 15 hours."
    >
    >HP sells a $50 external power supply for the camera:
    >HP Photosmart 3.3V AC adapter C8912B http://snipurl.com/fd11 , which
    >provides 3.3 Volts.
    >
    >A marking on the camera assigns the + polarity to the center connector
    >of the jack, and it's a small jack.
    >
    >Q1: What do you call that kind of jack?

    EIAJ DC plug?
    http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/07_15.pdf

    >Q2: Computer ATX power supplies have a 3.3 V line. I have some old
    >unused power supplies (and I can buy them nearby for $5). Can I use an
    >ATX power supply to power the camera?

    I'd modify my PC by locating a spare 3.3V plug on my PSU and running a
    cable to a slot bracket in an empty slot, or to a hole in the case, or
    to an unused 5.25" bay.

    WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
    ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
    may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
    time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
    a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
    batteries while doing this.


    - Franc Zabkar
    --
    Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
  15. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:17:44 +1000, Franc Zabkar
    <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

    <snip>

    >WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
    >ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
    >may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
    >time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
    >a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
    >batteries while doing this.

    I agree that the grounds need be same potential but have you
    ever run across any USB GND that wasn't already at power
    GND? AFAIK, they all are.
  16. Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware,alt.comp.periphs.mainboard,rec.photo.digital,sci.electronics.misc,sci.electronics.repair (More info?)

    On Sun, 05 Jun 2005 21:53:09 GMT, kony <spam@spam.com> put finger to
    keyboard and composed:

    >On Mon, 06 Jun 2005 06:17:44 +1000, Franc Zabkar
    ><fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:
    >
    ><snip>
    >
    >>WARNING: If you try this, I'd first ensure that the camera's USB
    >>ground and supply negative are at the same potential, otherwise you
    >>may damage your camera if you have both cables connected at the same
    >>time. You can do this by connecting a dummy plug to the DC socket. Use
    >>a DMM to test for continuity between the two grounds. Remove the
    >>batteries while doing this.
    >
    >I agree that the grounds need be same potential but have you
    >ever run across any USB GND that wasn't already at power
    >GND? AFAIK, they all are.

    AFAICS, there is no guarantee that the camera's power ground is at the
    same potential as its USB ground. What if there is a series polarity
    protection diode? Or what if the camera has its own internal SMPS?


    - Franc Zabkar
    --
    Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.
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