Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (
More info?)
Paul wrote:
> In article <3O-dncii1N57IE3dRVn_iw@comcast.com>, "FrankG"
> <fgalphin@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>>Hey Paul,
>>Other than being careful about desoldering and resoldering I don't think you
>>need to replace anything else. I had considered doing the same thing on
>>my P2B-S rev 1.02. But I decided that 1.8 volts is good enough of a voltage
>>to run my celeron 600 @ 900 considering it uses 1.7 volts.
>>I did a mod to a Slotket adapter to allow me to run the celeron.
>>I just shorted pins A119 to A120. It tells the slotket to use 1.8 volts
>>instead of 1.7 volts. Here is the info in case your curious.
>>http://homepage.hispeed.ch/rscheidegger/p2b_procupgrade_faq.html
>>
>>Good luck and let us know how it works out.
>>
>>Frank
>
>
> Considering the general availability of Tualatins, a Powerleap
> gets you an adapter and a processor at the same time. All you need
> is to update the BIOS, before installing the Powerleap.
>
>
http://powerleap.com/PL-iP3T.html
> PL-iP3/T 1.1 GHz Intel Celeron $99.95
>
> With the 1.1/100/256KB processor, you can take a shot at overclocking
> to 1.46/133,
Not on a P2B-LS 1.02 - unless he changes the clock generator, FSB is
limited to 112Mhz.
> but as the AGP is 2/3rds of 133, you'll need an AGP
> card that can hack 89MHz. Just avoid any of the current generation
> ATI9800/5900 style cards, as some of them only go to 75MHz, or
> so I've read. ( Look up Celeron Tualatin 1100 FCPGA2 on this site:
> http://www.cpudatabase.com/CPUdb/ - the majority of overclocking
> efforts succeed and give you better memory bandwidth, which is the
> main benefit.)
>
> I've done the mod on my P2B-S, and had trouble with only one
> pin. There is a pad on the board, with no track running to it,
> and that one is all too easy to tear off the board. No harm is
> done, other than the cosmetic issue, as the pin isn't used.
> I used a cheaper upgradeware slocket, but the cost of parts
> and tools for the mod was more than the cost of the Powerleap
> above - fun, but a bad deal.
>
> You could get some chipquik, a low temp soldering alloy, and
> if you melt some of that on each pin, it reduces the melting
> point of the metal puddle that forms. That can make removal
> a bit easier, by pulling a piece of dental floss between the
> pin and the pad, while the modified solder is molten.
Chipquik is great stuff, makes surface mount rework easy without special
tools. Using copious amounts of paste flux and chipquik, you can get the
chip to float in the resulting puddle at only 300F. Chipquik can be
reused several times before the added solder raises it's melting point
to higher a than desirable temperature.
Dental floss works well but tends to bend the pins - not a problem if
the chip will be discarded, but due to limited availability of these
parts, it's often necessary to transplant chips. I use stainless steel
matrix bands (ask your dentist) or automotive feeler gauges. Solder
won't stick to stainless steel, and a strip .020" or thinner will slide
under the chip body and allow it to be lifted off the board without
bending pins.
P2B
>
> Paul
>
>
>>
>>"Paul R. Hunt" <prhunt@dyson.brisnet.org.au> wrote in message
>>news:06a0d0d0d0bmu0latvp3mc1rsagcsdvs8q@4ax.com...
>>
>>>I have a p2b-ls rev. 1.02 (minus the Lan...).
>>>
>>>To facilitate a CPU upgrade, I am planning on replacing the voltage
>>>reg. chip. The board has the HIP6004A, and I have obtained the
>>>replacement HIP6004BCB. From what I've seen in the data sheets the
>>>chips are identical except that the BCB regulates to 1.3V where the
>>>ACB only goes to 1.8V.
>>>
>>>I'm interested to hear from anyone who has done this mod. Aside from
>>>the details of desoldering and resoldering the chip, are there any
>>>other considerations? eg are there any other components (eg power
>>>mosfets, caps) that need replacing. Any other tips?
>>>
>>>Thanks!
>>>
>>>Regards, Paul.
>>>
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