Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (
More info?)
Hi, I'd just like to say, to Paul. That was an excellent bit of guidance you
gave to MJ. It's posts like yours that make reading such newsgroups a
pleasure and we can learn so much from each other.
Thanks, John
"Paul" <nospam@needed.com> wrote in message
news:nospam-0312040146550001@192.168.1.177...
> In article <TLQrd.2005$Va5.552@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net>, "MJ"
> <MJ@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> 2 Hours later...
>>
>> If i shake the case a bit, the CPU fan seems to stay on after a few
>> pushes
>> on the power button.
>> I tried Corsair XMS ram and still the same.
>> I put in a GF6800 Ultra and I cannot get the CPU fan to stay on at all.
>> Tried a different PowerSupply (same thing)
>>
>> Can the case be the culprit for all of this or is it Motherboard or CPU?
>> I don't have the patience tonight to try and boot it out of the case (I
>> actually tried it out of the case when I first put it together and it was
>> doing the same exact thing...)
>>
>> Now when I seated the GPU 6800 but unpluged the power dongles to it,
>> something beeped but I think it was the GPU.... otherwise no other
>> beeps
>> at all.
>>
>> Got all of this from Newegg btw...
>
> If the problem existed before you put it in the case, there is
> no reason to assume that putting the product in the case
> will improve matters. The purpose of testing outside the case,
> is to avoid wasting time putting a defective setup into the case.
>
> Move the setup outside the case again. You'll need to do that
> anyway, for an RMA.
>
> Unfortunately, the K8N differs from the K8N-E, in that the K8N
> doesn't have the Voice Post option. If you had Voice Post, you
> could listen to the output on the Lineout connector, and there
> could be an error message waiting for you.
>
> In any case, the first thing I would try, is just motherboard,
> power supply, and a single case fan with fan header plug. To
> make a power switch, all you need to do, is jam a screwdriver
> tip momentarily against the two pins where a power switch
> would normally go on the PANEL header. You don't need to wire
> everything on the PANEL header - I test on my desktop, with
> nothing wired to the PANEL connector, and just using the
> screwdriver trick to start the board. Obviously, if you want
> to listen for POST beeps, you'll need to connect the speaker
> to the PANEl header as well.
>
> Only a momentary contact is necessary to the two power pins on
> the PANEL header, for the motherboard to start, and to turn
> it off, contact from 1 to 4 seconds long should do it.
>
> In the test above, the processor would be removed. First, switch
> on the PSU. Observe the green LED on the surface of the motherboard.
> It should light up. When you touch the two power switch pins on
> the PANEL header on the motherboard, with your screwdriver tip,
> the PSU should power up. The LED should glow a steady green the
> whole time. The LED should _never_ blink. If the LED ever blinks,
> it means the +5VSB from the power supply is unsteady for some
> reason. It could be something on the motherboard is overloading
> the power supply, or the power supply is defective. By trying
> a couple of power supplies, you might get an idea whether it is
> the motherboard or not.
>
> If the board switches on OK, see if the case fan plugged into
> the motherboard spins as well. That means, at least, the +12V
> on the main 20 pin cable works. That doesn't test the 2x2 ATX12V
> connector in the upper left hand corner of the board. That is
> the connector that comes with a "P4 ready" power supply, and
> that connector must be connected, in order for the processor to
> get power via the Vcore power converter.
>
> If everything is OK so far, now install the CPU plus fan/heatsink,
> but no memory. (Install with power supply unplugged - always
> unplug while changing any hardware in a computer - a conservative
> safety practice intended to prevent accidental presence of +5VSB
> on the board. Basically, _never_ change hardware while the green
> LED on the motherboard is lit.) With the CPU fan plugged into
> the CPU fan header, turn on the PSU, and again touch the two pins
> on the PANEL header with the screwdriver tip. If the CPU can read
> the BIOS flash chip, the code should soon discover that the memory
> DIMMs are missing. You would need a computer case speaker connected
> to the speaker pins on the PANEL header, to hear the beep pattern.
> Again, observe the green LED on the motherboard. Once the PSU switch
> is in the ON position, the LED should glow with a steady light - no
> blinking or glitching.
>
> At this point, I don't know if clearing the CMOS, via the CLRTC
> jumper, would help or not. If the power is coming on for only a
> very short time, then probably no BIOS code is getting to run.
> See section 1.9 of the manual. Remember to unplug the
> computer, because at least on some older Asus motherboards, damage
> can result from using the CLRTC jumper while the green LED is
> glowing.
>
> If results are worse with the CPU plugged in, than without, I would
> RMA the processor. If, whether the CPU is plugged in or not, the
> board has roughly the same symptoms, it could be the motherboard
> that has the problem. Or, it could even be that a defective CPU
> has blown the motherboard somehow. Fault isolation like this,
> requires a lot of spare components hanging around for you to try,
> and I cannot guarantee at the best of times, that you'll be able
> to positively identify just one defective part.
>
> You should also visually inspect the motheboard, for anything which
> is out of place, any visible signs of damage (like scratches,
> indicating someone had the motherboard before you). Apparently,
> some Asus motherboard do ship with components not properly
> soldered to the motherboard, so have a look at the board first,
> for something easy to identify as a problem.
>
> Good luck,
> Paul
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