A7V600-X install/stert-up problem

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

Just replaced an Abit m/b which had mouse communication probs.

When I fire it up absolutely nothing happens. However, I have the
green LED lit up.

Other than that there is no activity at all. LED on from of box seem
to be dead too although they may be dependent upon the box on/off
switch being OK.

Tried clearing CMOS. I'm lost now. Can someone help or is the M/B
DOA?

I have the Mem, graphics card (ATI 8600) and a HD in place BTW.
10 answers Last reply
More about a7v600 install stert problem
  1. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    In article <gbr171dm6nlqaihh3am58vrjo36stb5dl6@4ax.com>, Jerry
    <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:

    > Just replaced an Abit m/b which had mouse communication probs.
    >
    > When I fire it up absolutely nothing happens. However, I have the
    > green LED lit up.
    >
    > Other than that there is no activity at all. LED on from of box seem
    > to be dead too although they may be dependent upon the box on/off
    > switch being OK.
    >
    > Tried clearing CMOS. I'm lost now. Can someone help or is the M/B
    > DOA?
    >
    > I have the Mem, graphics card (ATI 8600) and a HD in place BTW.
    >

    Is the power switch connected to the correct two pins ?

    You don't have to connect everything up on the PANEL
    header if you don't want. Connecting just the power
    switch to its two pins, is enough to get things started.
    You won't hear any beeps from the PC speaker, but if the
    computer starts, maybe you won't need to listen to the
    beeps.

    Paul
  2. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 11:22:48 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:

    >In article <gbr171dm6nlqaihh3am58vrjo36stb5dl6@4ax.com>, Jerry
    ><jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    >
    >> Just replaced an Abit m/b which had mouse communication probs.
    >>
    >> When I fire it up absolutely nothing happens. However, I have the
    >> green LED lit up.
    >>
    >> Other than that there is no activity at all. LED on from of box seem
    >> to be dead too although they may be dependent upon the box on/off
    >> switch being OK.
    >>
    >> Tried clearing CMOS. I'm lost now. Can someone help or is the M/B
    >> DOA?
    >>
    >> I have the Mem, graphics card (ATI 8600) and a HD in place BTW.
    >>
    >
    >Is the power switch connected to the correct two pins ?
    >
    >You don't have to connect everything up on the PANEL
    >header if you don't want. Connecting just the power
    >switch to its two pins, is enough to get things started.
    >You won't hear any beeps from the PC speaker, but if the
    >computer starts, maybe you won't need to listen to the
    >beeps.
    >
    > Paul

    Thnx for your input :-)

    Tried the power switch, checked it, even reversed polarity (although I
    don't think that matter). Nothing!

    Funnily enough a) I've just put a 939 Asus board in another machine -
    worked like a dream and b) apart from the mouse issue the "old" board
    worked fine.
  3. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    In article <3a62719kvcbubdt1gs40eo7a11ro650td9@4ax.com>, Jerry
    <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:

    > On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 11:22:48 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
    >
    > >In article <gbr171dm6nlqaihh3am58vrjo36stb5dl6@4ax.com>, Jerry
    > ><jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    > >
    > >> Just replaced an Abit m/b which had mouse communication probs.
    > >>
    > >> When I fire it up absolutely nothing happens. However, I have the
    > >> green LED lit up.
    > >>
    > >> Other than that there is no activity at all. LED on from of box seem
    > >> to be dead too although they may be dependent upon the box on/off
    > >> switch being OK.
    > >>
    > >> Tried clearing CMOS. I'm lost now. Can someone help or is the M/B
    > >> DOA?
    > >>
    > >> I have the Mem, graphics card (ATI 8600) and a HD in place BTW.
    > >>
    > >
    > >Is the power switch connected to the correct two pins ?
    > >
    > >You don't have to connect everything up on the PANEL
    > >header if you don't want. Connecting just the power
    > >switch to its two pins, is enough to get things started.
    > >You won't hear any beeps from the PC speaker, but if the
    > >computer starts, maybe you won't need to listen to the
    > >beeps.
    > >
    > > Paul
    >
    > Thnx for your input :-)
    >
    > Tried the power switch, checked it, even reversed polarity (although I
    > don't think that matter). Nothing!
    >
    > Funnily enough a) I've just put a 939 Asus board in another machine -
    > worked like a dream and b) apart from the mouse issue the "old" board
    > worked fine.

    Seeing the green LED on the motherboard, means the motherboard
    is getting +5VSB. That is the only voltage that shows up
    initially when you switch on, via the switch on the back of
    the computer. One of the purposes of the green LED, is you
    should not add or remove hardware components if the green LED
    is lit.

    The power switch goes to two pins on the PANEL connector. A
    momentary contact on the switch, should be latched by a chip on
    the motherboard. In turn, that drives the PS_ON# signal on the
    ATX 20 pin power connector to a logic 0, which is supposed to
    turn on the PSU. You have indicated neither a "twitch of the
    fans" nor a short powered up interval after trying the power
    button, so that means that the normal sequence of events has
    been interrupted.

    Some Asus boards have a circuit called AGP_warn. It is located
    next to the AGP slot. In recent months, it looks like Asus has
    been removing the components from that circuit, so they might
    not be using it any more. What that circuit used to do, is if
    a mis-keyed 3.3V only AGP card was stuffed in the AGP slot,
    the motherboard would be prevented from powering up. Pretty
    well your exact symptoms.

    To test for that, you could try removing the AGP card, and
    see if the system will power up. (A board should be able to
    start without a video card connected, and you should get the
    beep code that says the video card is missing.)

    I think the next step for you, is to assemble the system
    outside your computer case. That is referred to as the
    "cardboard" test, because you rest the motherboard on
    an insulator while testing. (I like to use a thick phone
    book.) If the motherboard will start that way, then something
    must have been shorting.

    In terms of power connectors, there is only the main 20 pin ATX
    power connector, so it doesn't look like any other power cable
    is missing.

    You might try disconnecting the reset switch. I'm not
    really sure whether reset prevents the power switch from
    working or not. If reset was stuck in the "ON" position,
    the board would not POST, but I would think the PS_ON#
    logic would likely still work. (Hardware designers normally
    design a reset signal, so it overrides all other logic,
    but motherboard designers don't seem to follow this
    practice. My A7N8X-E for example, can get wedged in states
    where the reset button won't do anything.)

    The motherboard should have been functionally tested
    at the factory. Unless this is a refurb, or the board
    has been subjected to stresses while being shipped,
    it really should work.

    Tell me, has the PSU ever been tested with another
    motherboard ? Do you know that the PSU is actually
    capable of turning on ? Perhaps you could test the
    new PSU on another computer. An alternative, is to
    test it by connecting PS_ON# to an adjacent COM signal,
    on the 20 pin connector (I don't like recommending this
    to people, so my preference would be to have tested
    the PSU on another motherboard. While there should be
    no dire consequences from connecting PS_ON# to GND,
    I don't have a guarantee in writing that such a thing
    is completely safe to do. I use dummy resistor loads
    on my PSU when operating the PSU manually like that.)

    If the PSU has a 115/220 selector switch on it, check
    to make sure it is in the correct position. If the PSU
    has such a selector switch, don't play with it while the
    PSU is plugged in! In fact, you should always unplug
    the power, before working in the case. (One poster here
    actually had a PSU that continued to run, after the
    switch on the back of the computer was switched off.
    Unplugging is the only way to guarantee there is
    no power present.)

    HTH,
    Paul
  4. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 14:51:12 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:

    snip

    Thnx for your input :-) AGAIN

    > You have indicated neither a "twitch of the
    >fans" nor a short powered up interval after trying the power
    >button, so that means that the normal sequence of events has
    >been interrupted.

    There was one ocassion when the fan twiched - only the briefest twitch
    moved the fan maybe just half a revolution. Happened once in around
    20 or so attempts.

    >Some Asus boards have a circuit called AGP_warn. It is located
    >next to the AGP slot. In recent months, it looks like Asus has
    >been removing the components from that circuit, so they might
    >not be using it any more. What that circuit used to do, is if
    >a mis-keyed 3.3V only AGP card was stuffed in the AGP slot,
    >the motherboard would be prevented from powering up. Pretty
    >well your exact symptoms.
    >
    >To test for that, you could try removing the AGP card, and
    >see if the system will power up. (A board should be able to
    >start without a video card connected, and you should get the
    >beep code that says the video card is missing.)

    Removed. Still no joy

    >I think the next step for you, is to assemble the system
    >outside your computer case. That is referred to as the
    >"cardboard" test, because you rest the motherboard on
    >an insulator while testing. (I like to use a thick phone
    >book.) If the motherboard will start that way, then something
    >must have been shorting.

    Try that later.

    >You might try disconnecting the reset switch. I'm not
    >really sure whether reset prevents the power switch from
    >working or not. If reset was stuck in the "ON" position,
    >the board would not POST, but I would think the PS_ON#
    >logic would likely still work.

    Tried with both reset in place and disconnected.

    >The motherboard should have been functionally tested
    >at the factory. Unless this is a refurb, or the board
    >has been subjected to stresses while being shipped,
    >it really should work.
    >
    >Tell me, has the PSU ever been tested with another
    >motherboard ?<

    Yes it worked with the old m/b IMMEDIATELY prior to exchange

    >Do you know that the PSU is actually
    >capable of turning on ?

    Not sure what you mean, but see above.

    --
    Jerry
  5. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    In article <er5471ph2tefqegqf59re3b6bjopigaqqk@4ax.com>, Jerry
    <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:

    > On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 14:51:12 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
    >
    > snip
    >
    > Thnx for your input :-) AGAIN
    >
    > > You have indicated neither a "twitch of the
    > >fans" nor a short powered up interval after trying the power
    > >button, so that means that the normal sequence of events has
    > >been interrupted.
    >
    > There was one ocassion when the fan twiched - only the briefest twitch
    > moved the fan maybe just half a revolution. Happened once in around
    > 20 or so attempts.
    >

    That almost sounds like a power supply problem. It could be a
    short somewhere is doing it. If you can get a twitch out of it,
    that means the power switch path is working. I think the
    "cardboard test" is the next step, followed by a PSU swap if
    it still doesn't work.

    Paul
  6. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 14:37:19 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:

    >In article <er5471ph2tefqegqf59re3b6bjopigaqqk@4ax.com>, Jerry
    ><jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    >
    >> On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 14:51:12 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
    >>
    >> snip
    >>
    >> Thnx for your input :-) AGAIN
    >>
    >> > You have indicated neither a "twitch of the
    >> >fans" nor a short powered up interval after trying the power
    >> >button, so that means that the normal sequence of events has
    >> >been interrupted.
    >>
    >> There was one ocassion when the fan twiched - only the briefest twitch
    >> moved the fan maybe just half a revolution. Happened once in around
    >> 20 or so attempts.
    >>
    >
    >That almost sounds like a power supply problem. It could be a
    >short somewhere is doing it. If you can get a twitch out of it,
    >that means the power switch path is working. I think the
    >"cardboard test" is the next step, followed by a PSU swap if
    >it still doesn't work.

    Well the cardboard test (I just got around to it) produced the same
    result.

    You say PSU swap now but i don't have one so I'd have to buy one which
    would be more than the m/b.

    Paul, the PSU is only around 12 months old. It worked fine
    immediately before the new m/b perfectly. The chance of it having
    broken in the time it takes to switch the m/b are extremely slim, no?

    What does this mean then? The m/b is NEW BTW.

    --
    Jerry
  7. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    On Sun, 15 May 2005 17:47:36 +0100, Jerry
    <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:

    >On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 14:37:19 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
    >
    >>In article <er5471ph2tefqegqf59re3b6bjopigaqqk@4ax.com>, Jerry
    >><jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    >>
    >>> On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 14:51:12 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
    >>>
    >>> snip
    >>>
    >>> Thnx for your input :-) AGAIN
    >>>
    >>> > You have indicated neither a "twitch of the
    >>> >fans" nor a short powered up interval after trying the power
    >>> >button, so that means that the normal sequence of events has
    >>> >been interrupted.
    >>>
    >>> There was one ocassion when the fan twiched - only the briefest twitch
    >>> moved the fan maybe just half a revolution. Happened once in around
    >>> 20 or so attempts.
    >>>
    >>
    >>That almost sounds like a power supply problem. It could be a
    >>short somewhere is doing it. If you can get a twitch out of it,
    >>that means the power switch path is working. I think the
    >>"cardboard test" is the next step, followed by a PSU swap if
    >>it still doesn't work.
    >
    >Well the cardboard test (I just got around to it) produced the same
    >result.
    >
    >You say PSU swap now but i don't have one so I'd have to buy one which
    >would be more than the m/b.
    >
    >Paul, the PSU is only around 12 months old. It worked fine
    >immediately before the new m/b perfectly. The chance of it having
    >broken in the time it takes to switch the m/b are extremely slim, no?
    >
    >What does this mean then? The m/b is NEW BTW.

    I don't know if you are still here, Paul..............in answer to my
    own query..........

    I had a lab down the oroad test the m/b with the CPU and memory in
    situ. Apparently it works fine.

    So I guess it is the PSU or the connector!! Don't see what else it
    can be now.

    --
    jerry
  8. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    In article <7rep81ptips3i1ljea55t44jbns5md6ms4@4ax.com>, Jerry
    <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:

    >
    > I don't know if you are still here, Paul..............in answer to my
    > own query..........
    >
    > I had a lab down the oroad test the m/b with the CPU and memory in
    > situ. Apparently it works fine.
    >
    > So I guess it is the PSU or the connector!! Don't see what else it
    > can be now.
    >
    > --
    > jerry

    Could the lab down the road test your PSU for you ? That
    is a tougher thing to do, because a proper test required
    a programmable load box, if you want to do the job right
    (i.e. test at rated load).

    If you cannot borrow any more of that lab's time, you
    can start a PSU by itself, by connecting PS_ON# to
    one of the COM pins (there are COM pins very near to
    PS_ON#). The PSU fan should start to spin, in response.
    All that this test tells you, is that the control circuit
    still has some response in it.

    I do not recommend opening up the power supply under any
    circumstances. The two main electrolytic caps store an
    unbelievable number of joules of energy, and are not to
    be trifled with. Even though the caps likely have bleeder
    resistors across them, bleeders can open up, and putting
    shunts across caps like this could deafen you (think
    fire cracker loud). As a result, there is really no point
    of opening up the lid of the supply. Using your nose
    is as good an indicator of health as any, and if you smell
    something burnt in the supply, you have all the info you
    need about your supply.

    I test my PSUs here before I put them in a computer. I
    have some power resistors I got from an electronics
    store, plus some Minifit Jr pins to connect to the
    power supply connector. I actually load all five rails
    on the power supply. What I cannot do with this setup,
    is draw full rated load from the power supply - instead
    I draw only about 1 amp or so from the major outputs, and
    maybe 0.5 amps from the others. That way, the resistors
    do not get too warm (I still have a fan blowing on them).
    Getting decent dummy load resistors means too much bulky
    stuff to store, when I'm not using the tester. It is possible
    to design "electronic loads", using power transistors and
    the like, but you still need to fabricate a cooling solution.
    (No matter how you build a load, the heat has to go somewhere.)
    I suppose $200 worth of water cooling stuff could cool it.
    In any case, for my purposes, there isn't enough benefit
    for the amount of effort required.

    One thing to remember about your old motherboard, and your
    new motherboard, is they likely present entirely different
    levels of electrical loading to the PSU. It could be that
    the PSU is weak enough, that it just cannot handle the new
    board. For example, some people have a supply "tip over"
    when they add something innocuous, like a CD drive. PSUs
    these days, no matter what brand, are marginal at best.
    Many of them cannot run at full rated load - some of
    the ones with 400 or 450W written on the side, are just
    last year's 350W with a new label pasted on it. Picking
    good supplies is a tough job.

    If you are short of money, the only alternative I can
    see, is to buy a super-cheap supply. There was a web site
    a while back, where the author weighed ATX power supplies,
    and evaluated what was inside. He found that quality was
    directly proportional to weight, so if you are at a large
    computer supply place, compare the weight of the supplies
    and take the heaviest of the cheap ones. (Fortunately, the
    Chinese don't think we select supplies by weight, as
    otherwise they would add lead plates to the case :-) )
    That is about as scientific a selection algorithm as I
    can give you, for the Deere, Powmax, Allied, etc supplies
    of the world.

    To work out what size supply you need, try this site:
    http://takaman.jp/D/?english

    Good luck,
    Paul
  9. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    "Paul4" wrote:
    > In article <7rep81ptips3i1ljea55t44jbns5md6ms4@4ax.com>, Jerry
    > <jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    >
    > >
    > > I don't know if you are still here, Paul..............in
    > answer to my
    > > own query..........
    > >
    > > I had a lab down the oroad test the m/b with the CPU and
    > memory in
    > > situ. Apparently it works fine.
    > >
    > > So I guess it is the PSU or the connector!! Don't see what
    > else it
    > > can be now.
    > >
    > > --
    > > jerry
    >
    > Could the lab down the road test your PSU for you ? That
    > is a tougher thing to do, because a proper test required
    > a programmable load box, if you want to do the job right
    > (i.e. test at rated load).
    >
    > If you cannot borrow any more of that lab's time, you
    > can start a PSU by itself, by connecting PS_ON# to
    > one of the COM pins (there are COM pins very near to
    > PS_ON#). The PSU fan should start to spin, in response.
    > All that this test tells you, is that the control circuit
    > still has some response in it.
    >
    > I do not recommend opening up the power supply under any
    > circumstances. The two main electrolytic caps store an
    > unbelievable number of joules of energy, and are not to
    > be trifled with. Even though the caps likely have bleeder
    > resistors across them, bleeders can open up, and putting
    > shunts across caps like this could deafen you (think
    > fire cracker loud). As a result, there is really no point
    > of opening up the lid of the supply. Using your nose
    > is as good an indicator of health as any, and if you smell
    > something burnt in the supply, you have all the info you
    > need about your supply.
    >
    > I test my PSUs here before I put them in a computer. I
    > have some power resistors I got from an electronics
    > store, plus some Minifit Jr pins to connect to the
    > power supply connector. I actually load all five rails
    > on the power supply. What I cannot do with this setup,
    > is draw full rated load from the power supply - instead
    > I draw only about 1 amp or so from the major outputs, and
    > maybe 0.5 amps from the others. That way, the resistors
    > do not get too warm (I still have a fan blowing on them).
    > Getting decent dummy load resistors means too much bulky
    > stuff to store, when I'm not using the tester. It is possible
    > to design "electronic loads", using power transistors and
    > the like, but you still need to fabricate a cooling solution.
    > (No matter how you build a load, the heat has to go
    > somewhere.)
    > I suppose $200 worth of water cooling stuff could cool it.
    > In any case, for my purposes, there isn't enough benefit
    > for the amount of effort required.
    >
    > One thing to remember about your old motherboard, and your
    > new motherboard, is they likely present entirely different
    > levels of electrical loading to the PSU. It could be that
    > the PSU is weak enough, that it just cannot handle the new
    > board. For example, some people have a supply "tip over"
    > when they add something innocuous, like a CD drive. PSUs
    > these days, no matter what brand, are marginal at best.
    > Many of them cannot run at full rated load - some of
    > the ones with 400 or 450W written on the side, are just
    > last year's 350W with a new label pasted on it. Picking
    > good supplies is a tough job.
    >
    > If you are short of money, the only alternative I can
    > see, is to buy a super-cheap supply. There was a web site
    > a while back, where the author weighed ATX power supplies,
    > and evaluated what was inside. He found that quality was
    > directly proportional to weight, so if you are at a large
    > computer supply place, compare the weight of the supplies
    > and take the heaviest of the cheap ones. (Fortunately, the
    > Chinese don't think we select supplies by weight, as
    > otherwise they would add lead plates to the case :-) )
    > That is about as scientific a selection algorithm as I
    > can give you, for the Deere, Powmax, Allied, etc supplies
    > of the world.
    >
    > To work out what size supply you need, try this site:
    > http://takaman.jp/D/?english
    >
    > Good luck,
    > Paul

    Have you updated BIOS?

    --
    Posted using the http://www.hardwareforumz.com interface, at author's request
    Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
    Topic URL: http://www.hardwareforumz.com/ASUS-A7V600-install-stert-problem-ftopict54914.html
    Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.hardwareforumz.com/eform.php?p=284107
  10. Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (More info?)

    On Wed, 25 May 2005 10:22:36 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:

    >In article <7rep81ptips3i1ljea55t44jbns5md6ms4@4ax.com>, Jerry
    ><jerry@remove.veridian.fsworld.co.uk> wrote:
    >
    >>
    >> I don't know if you are still here, Paul..............in answer to my
    >> own query..........
    >>
    >> I had a lab down the oroad test the m/b with the CPU and memory in
    >> situ. Apparently it works fine.
    >>
    >> So I guess it is the PSU or the connector!! Don't see what else it
    >> can be now.
    >>
    >> --
    >> jerry
    >
    >Could the lab down the road test your PSU for you ?

    snip
    >
    >To work out what size supply you need, try this site:
    >http://takaman.jp/D/?english
    >
    >Good luck,
    > Paul

    Paul, I am greatly indebted to you. I have learned a lot from this
    highly frustrating problem.

    I asked the Lab to test the PSU. It was a faulty PSU. The m/b is now
    installed and working (except for wireless networking :-( but thats
    another story)

    I had no idea a failing PSU could just afgfect mouse performance to
    start with. I assumed it was the m/b and replaced it. Probably need
    not have done. Ah well.

    --
    Jerry
Ask a new question

Read More

Asus LED Monitor Motherboards