please help with temp readings

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 20:00:27 +0000, jakesnake66 wrote:

> I'm building a micro-atx desktop unit for a friend, using an Asus A7V400-MX
> mobo. I've installed both a 2500+ barton and a 2400+ t'bred, and the temps
> are idling around 55C, which I do not believe are accurate. I'm using a
> stock retail hs/fan, thermal grease applied correctly, the case cover off,
> the cd rom pulled out, a small case fan running, and the machine is sitting
> next to an open window with a light breeze coming in, outside temp about
> 65F. When I touch the h/s it is very cool, and it's cool around the socket.
> I can cut the computer off and pull the h/s in less than 10 seconds, and to
> my finger the cpu feels fine, maybe body temp or so.
>
> Normally I would chalk it up to inaccurate readings and move on, but this
> build is a bit different, and cooling could become an issue. The machine
> will be used in an environment that gets pretty warm from time to time.
>
> Advice, thoughts appreciated.
>
Replace the stock cooler. It's not very good. A TR2-M1 (or M3) for about
$10 will work a lot better. The 55C is probably die temp instead of
socket. Close the case and put it in a hot room and it will probaly go up
considerably.. Make sure the case has good ventilation. If you don't need
all the power of the cpu, then underclock it and more importantly lower
vcore. This will give you a long life under adverse conditions.

--
Abit KT7-Raid (KT133) Tbred B core CPU @2400MHz (24x100FSB)
http://mysite.verizon.net/res0exft/cpu.htm

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

"Wes Newell" wrote in message

> Replace the stock cooler. It's not very good. A TR2-M1 (or M3) for about
> $10 will work a lot better.

I've just replaced my coolmaster 3200+ all aluminium heatsink 80mm fan combo
with the heatsink that came with the cpu because I wanted to see the
difference between the copper shimmed ome heatsink and my aluminium one. I
have noticed a 1C increase in idle temp (44C to 45C) and 2C at max load (49C
to 51C), I'm hoping a better 60mm fan will decrease the temps until I can
afford an all copper heatpipe heatsink and jet blower. My rig also has a
Thermal take smart fan 2 exhausting just below the psu and an antec 2700 rpm
fan under the fx5700 also exhausting. I'm also planning another fan to blow
cool air in from the front (and cool my hdd's, most likely the aluminium fan
from the old hs once I get another 3 pin to 4 pin connector) and one to
either exhaust from the side of the case or from the top (then I might think
about putting the side back on).

In contrast my brother in law has a 2600+ sempron (also with a standard
heatsink fan combo) and a 9600XT. He has one fan blowing on to his cpu and
has an idle temp of 51C and 60C max load.

*note while changing the heatsink I increased fsb to 202 increasing clock
speed from 2299 to 2322. Cpu Athlon XP 2600+

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

You might try changing out the 80mm Thermaltake Smart Fan II that is
exhausting out the back of the unit with the fan that's on the coolmaster
heat sink and use the manual fan adjustment that came with Smart Fan II to
control the fan speed. The Smart Fan has a higher pressure and will force
more air deeper into the HS fins.

You need fresh cool air coming into the case from the lower front by the
hard drives for proper air flow. The intake fans should equal the exhaust
fans in cubic feet per minute (CFM) of air flow. You want the same amount
of air going into the case as your moving out of the case. If you plan on
putting a fan in the top of the case it should be an exhaust, if you plan on
putting a fan in the side of the case it should be a intake fan. Fans in
the side of the case are best to be located across from the video card or
across from the cpu which will force cool air across the hottest components
in the system. The best set up for most cases in general is a 120mm in the
front of the case and two 80mm exhaust fans in the back of the case. The
side intake fan should be installed at the same time you install the top
exhaust fan (called a blow hole). This will move cool air across the cpu
and rising hot air out the top of the case. The bottom intake fan will move
cool air in across the length of the MB and exhausting it out the back of
the case. If you have a lot of exhaust fans and no intake fans to match a
negative pressure will develop in the case and you could draw the hot air
from the power supply unit into the case. Intake volume CFM needs to match
the exhaust CFM.

BTW I run a slight positive pressure in the case (more intake volume than
exhaust) to prevent dust from getting into my CD-RW.

"Blindside" <more.pop@gmail.com> wrote in message
news Leod.44528$K7.37623@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
>
> "Wes Newell" wrote in message
>
>> Replace the stock cooler. It's not very good. A TR2-M1 (or M3) for about
>> $10 will work a lot better.
>
> I've just replaced my coolmaster 3200+ all aluminium heatsink 80mm fan
> combo
> with the heatsink that came with the cpu because I wanted to see the
> difference between the copper shimmed ome heatsink and my aluminium one.
> I
> have noticed a 1C increase in idle temp (44C to 45C) and 2C at max load
> (49C
> to 51C), I'm hoping a better 60mm fan will decrease the temps until I can
> afford an all copper heatpipe heatsink and jet blower. My rig also has a
> Thermal take smart fan 2 exhausting just below the psu and an antec 2700
> rpm
> fan under the fx5700 also exhausting. I'm also planning another fan to
> blow
> cool air in from the front (and cool my hdd's, most likely the aluminium
> fan
> from the old hs once I get another 3 pin to 4 pin connector) and one to
> either exhaust from the side of the case or from the top (then I might
> think
> about putting the side back on).
>
> In contrast my brother in law has a 2600+ sempron (also with a standard
> heatsink fan combo) and a 9600XT. He has one fan blowing on to his cpu
> and
> has an idle temp of 51C and 60C max load.
>
> *note while changing the heatsink I increased fsb to 202 increasing clock
> speed from 2299 to 2322. Cpu Athlon XP 2600+
>
>
>

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

"Rusty" wrote

> You might try changing out the 80mm Thermaltake Smart Fan II that is
> exhausting out the back of the unit with the fan that's on the coolmaster
> heat sink and use the manual fan adjustment that came with Smart Fan II to
> control the fan speed. The Smart Fan has a higher pressure and will force
> more air deeper into the HS fins.

I thought I'd investigate a bit. The heatsink I had on there was actually
an evercool model they don't make anymore. The fan on top of the Aluminium
heatsink is an aluminium fan http://www.evercool.com.tw/index_eng.htm
ec7015h12c which i thought may draw heat away from the heatsink and cool the
overall combo.
But looking at the specs for the smart fan 2
http://www.thermaltake.com/dcfans/smartfan/a1357.htm
the smart fan has almost twice as much pressure. I'll give it a try
tomorrow and post the results.

I've tryed the 2 fans i have currently in all positions and variation and
this is the best config i can currently get is the 2 exausting fans. The
smart fan in front gets the m/b down to 2C but the cpu goes up 4C. The
opposite worked best but I wondered what it was doing to the antec as the
smart fan was pulling out much more air than the antec could put in.

Thanks for all the good information.

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.overclocking.amd (More info?)

omg, these http://www.3dcool.com/Details.asp?cid=100&id=239 are sick. If I
leave the current copper shimmed heatsink. Put one of these on and the
alumnium fan (or the smart fan) back on and it'll be like a tunnel ram. I
see a dragster inspired mod coming :-)