Olympus P-10 Dye Sub Printer

Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

I purchased an Olympus P-10 4x6 dye sub printer a few weeks ago, and
am now asking that Olympus provide me with a refund. All of my prints
have "jaggies" or a notched effects, particularly notable on diagonal
lines and features. Olympus now tells me that new drivers,
availability date unknown, may address this problem. Going back to my
Epson R800 - beautiful prints.

Anybody else have seen this problem (or did anyone else but me buy
this printer?)

Scott
10 answers Last reply
More about olympus printer
  1. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    news:jdmmi01gtcgklqubl17i66c5lcp9jcgd0q@4ax.com...
    >I purchased an Olympus P-10 4x6 dye sub printer a few weeks ago, and
    > am now asking that Olympus provide me with a refund. All of my prints
    > have "jaggies" or a notched effects, particularly notable on diagonal
    > lines and features. Olympus now tells me that new drivers,
    > availability date unknown, may address this problem. Going back to my
    > Epson R800 - beautiful prints.
    >
    > Anybody else have seen this problem (or did anyone else but me buy
    > this printer?)

    I am not familiar with the details of the P-10, but dye sub printers are often
    relatively low resolution (206 ppi?), with a very large color depth at each
    pixel. Low resolution/high color depth is best for faces, landscapes and other
    images that do not have sharp lines, especially diagonals.

    Regards,
    Bob Headrick, not speaking fro my employer HP
    MS MVP Printing/Imaging
  2. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:24:37 -0700, "Bob Headrick" <bobh@proaxis.com>
    wrote:

    >
    >"Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >news:jdmmi01gtcgklqubl17i66c5lcp9jcgd0q@4ax.com...
    >>I purchased an Olympus P-10 4x6 dye sub printer a few weeks ago, and
    >> am now asking that Olympus provide me with a refund. All of my prints
    >> have "jaggies" or a notched effects, particularly notable on diagonal
    >> lines and features. Olympus now tells me that new drivers,
    >> availability date unknown, may address this problem. Going back to my
    >> Epson R800 - beautiful prints.
    >>
    >> Anybody else have seen this problem (or did anyone else but me buy
    >> this printer?)
    >
    >I am not familiar with the details of the P-10, but dye sub printers are often
    >relatively low resolution (206 ppi?), with a very large color depth at each
    >pixel. Low resolution/high color depth is best for faces, landscapes and other
    >images that do not have sharp lines, especially diagonals.
    >
    >Regards,
    >Bob Headrick, not speaking fro my employer HP
    >MS MVP Printing/Imaging
    >
    Bob,

    Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.

    Scott
  3. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    >
    > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >
    > Scott

    If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your original
    image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].

    As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use something
    like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and actual
    printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell the
    printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.

    A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    finisher.
  4. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    "SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    >
    > "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    > news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    > >
    > > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    > > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    > > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    > > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    > >
    > > Scott
    >
    > If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    original
    > image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    >
    > As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    something
    > like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    actual
    > printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    the
    > printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    >
    > A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    > finisher.
    >
    >

    I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.

    Ron
  5. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 19:16:31 -0400, "Ron" <rkrebs1@rcn.com> wrote:

    >
    >"SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    >news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    >>
    >> "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >> news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    >> >
    >> > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    >> > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    >> > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    >> > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >> >
    >> > Scott
    >>
    >> If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    >original
    >> image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    >>
    >> As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    >something
    >> like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    >actual
    >> printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    >the
    >> printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    >>
    >> A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    >> finisher.
    >>
    >>
    >
    >I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    >prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.
    >
    >Ron
    >
    Thanks for the responses.

    The original are from a Canon G5 - most taken as Canon Raw (some as
    jpg.) Original size is 2592 pixels x 1944 pixels, opened with either
    PhotoShop CS raw converter or Canon File Viewer as at 300dpi (8.64" x
    6.48"); resampled Bicubic to 6" x 4.5"; cropped to 6" x 4"; then sent
    to the printer. (Sent directly to an Epson R800 printer the results
    are flawless - to send the same photo to the P-10 and not have it sent
    way off the edges, I have to use PhotoShop's "Print with Preview" and
    then select "Scale to Fit Media", which reduces it to 78.97% (3.159" x
    4.738")- which then gives about the same visible picture area as seen
    on the R800. There is a slight difference in size of the paper - the
    Epson is 4x6" - the Olympus is 100x148mm.

    Any other ideas, anyone?

    Scott
  6. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    news:n011j0tgio26ead9fd03r8pdmv2sf9fq83@4ax.com...
    > On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 19:16:31 -0400, "Ron" <rkrebs1@rcn.com> wrote:
    >
    > >
    > >"SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    > >news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    > >>
    > >> "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    > >> news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    > >> >
    > >> > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    > >> > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    > >> > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    > >> > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    > >> >
    > >> > Scott
    > >>
    > >> If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    > >original
    > >> image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    > >>
    > >> As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    > >something
    > >> like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    > >actual
    > >> printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    > >the
    > >> printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    > >>
    > >> A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    > >> finisher.
    > >>
    > >>
    > >
    > >I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    > >prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.
    > >
    > >Ron
    > >
    > Thanks for the responses.
    >
    > The original are from a Canon G5 - most taken as Canon Raw (some as
    > jpg.) Original size is 2592 pixels x 1944 pixels, opened with either
    > PhotoShop CS raw converter or Canon File Viewer as at 300dpi (8.64" x
    > 6.48"); resampled Bicubic to 6" x 4.5"; cropped to 6" x 4"; then sent
    > to the printer. (Sent directly to an Epson R800 printer the results
    > are flawless - to send the same photo to the P-10 and not have it sent
    > way off the edges, I have to use PhotoShop's "Print with Preview" and
    > then select "Scale to Fit Media", which reduces it to 78.97% (3.159" x
    > 4.738")- which then gives about the same visible picture area as seen
    > on the R800. There is a slight difference in size of the paper - the
    > Epson is 4x6" - the Olympus is 100x148mm.
    >
    > Any other ideas, anyone?
    >
    > Scott

    same idea as before -- scale with the tool, and don't post-scale -- either with
    the printer driver or with 'scale to fit'.
  7. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    Dye sub printers have a different technology than that used for inkjet.
    With dye-sub, each image pixel is represented by one pixel or dot on
    the printed page. They typically have a resolution of between 250 and 400
    dpi.

    How they differ from inkjet is that the pixel of dot is made up of an
    overlay of colors (usually CMY and sometimes K (black) in usually 256
    levels, making for up to 16.8 or so million colors. This makes the
    color accuracy and gradients very smooth and potentially accurate.

    Inkjet printers have "higher" resolutions, in that they can address up
    to nearly 6000 dots per ink, however, they cannot be directly compared
    to the dot create din a dye sub printer. In inkjet printers, the ink
    dot can usually only be on exact color, that of the ink. That is why
    inkjet printers have been adding more ink colors, densities and dot
    sizes to create the illusion of more colors. Inkjet printers create
    colors by dithering processes which alternate the dots of the actual ink
    colors to give the appearance of many more colors, because the dots are
    very small, our eye perceives them as a variety of colors. Without a
    loupe, you probably wouldn't see the individual dots anyway.

    Dye-sub printers are usually faster as a result of needing to lay down
    less dots, but since each dot is so much larger, so in areas line
    diagonal lines which have contrast to surrounding areas (as they often
    do) there can be a problem with "jaggies". The inkjet printer uses
    their ability to print very detailed dot placement to their advantage
    here, with careful driver design the diagonal lines are printed in a
    manner to lessen jaggies by filling in those steps by moving dots
    around. A good driver on a dye-sub printer can lessen that as well, but
    a poor driver will make it even more obvious on that type of printer.

    I would agree with you that waiting for future releases may be
    potentially dangerous, because it may never occur. In general, promises
    of improvement with the "next" driver release should be considered with
    some suspicion.

    Art


    Scott wrote:

    > On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 20:24:37 -0700, "Bob Headrick" <bobh@proaxis.com>
    > wrote:
    >
    >
    >>"Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >>news:jdmmi01gtcgklqubl17i66c5lcp9jcgd0q@4ax.com...
    >>
    >>>I purchased an Olympus P-10 4x6 dye sub printer a few weeks ago, and
    >>>am now asking that Olympus provide me with a refund. All of my prints
    >>>have "jaggies" or a notched effects, particularly notable on diagonal
    >>>lines and features. Olympus now tells me that new drivers,
    >>>availability date unknown, may address this problem. Going back to my
    >>>Epson R800 - beautiful prints.
    >>>
    >>>Anybody else have seen this problem (or did anyone else but me buy
    >>>this printer?)
    >>
    >>I am not familiar with the details of the P-10, but dye sub printers are often
    >>relatively low resolution (206 ppi?), with a very large color depth at each
    >>pixel. Low resolution/high color depth is best for faces, landscapes and other
    >>images that do not have sharp lines, especially diagonals.
    >>
    >>Regards,
    >>Bob Headrick, not speaking fro my employer HP
    >>MS MVP Printing/Imaging
    >>
    >
    > Bob,
    >
    > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >
    > Scott
  8. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    This raises a good point. What resolution source file was the original
    poster using when he was noticing the jaggies? If the printer is forced
    to upsample to create a higher res to produce the image, with dye sub
    and mediocre drivers, that could easily lead to diagonal jaggies.

    Art

    Ron wrote:

    > "SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    > news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    >
    >>"Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >>news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    >>
    >>>Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    >>>where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    >>>idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    >>>the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >>>
    >>>Scott
    >>
    >>If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    >
    > original
    >
    >>image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    >>
    >>As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    >
    > something
    >
    >>like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    >
    > actual
    >
    >>printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    >
    > the
    >
    >>printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    >>
    >>A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    >>finisher.
    >>
    >>
    >
    >
    > I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    > prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.
    >
    > Ron
    >
    >
  9. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    Is there any way to create a file that is exactly the same resolution
    (at output size) as the printer's resolution (317 dpi??), so that the
    driver doesn't have to do any resampling?

    Art

    Scott wrote:

    > On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 19:16:31 -0400, "Ron" <rkrebs1@rcn.com> wrote:
    >
    >
    >>"SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    >>news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    >>
    >>>"Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >>>news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    >>>
    >>>>Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    >>>>where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    >>>>idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    >>>>the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >>>>
    >>>>Scott
    >>>
    >>>If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    >>
    >>original
    >>
    >>>image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    >>>
    >>>As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    >>
    >>something
    >>
    >>>like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    >>
    >>actual
    >>
    >>>printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    >>
    >>the
    >>
    >>>printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    >>>
    >>>A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    >>>finisher.
    >>>
    >>>
    >>
    >>I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    >>prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.
    >>
    >>Ron
    >>
    >
    > Thanks for the responses.
    >
    > The original are from a Canon G5 - most taken as Canon Raw (some as
    > jpg.) Original size is 2592 pixels x 1944 pixels, opened with either
    > PhotoShop CS raw converter or Canon File Viewer as at 300dpi (8.64" x
    > 6.48"); resampled Bicubic to 6" x 4.5"; cropped to 6" x 4"; then sent
    > to the printer. (Sent directly to an Epson R800 printer the results
    > are flawless - to send the same photo to the P-10 and not have it sent
    > way off the edges, I have to use PhotoShop's "Print with Preview" and
    > then select "Scale to Fit Media", which reduces it to 78.97% (3.159" x
    > 4.738")- which then gives about the same visible picture area as seen
    > on the R800. There is a slight difference in size of the paper - the
    > Epson is 4x6" - the Olympus is 100x148mm.
    >
    > Any other ideas, anyone?
    >
    > Scott
  10. Archived from groups: comp.periphs.printers (More info?)

    On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 13:48:00 GMT, "SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net>
    wrote:

    >
    >"Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >news:n011j0tgio26ead9fd03r8pdmv2sf9fq83@4ax.com...
    >> On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 19:16:31 -0400, "Ron" <rkrebs1@rcn.com> wrote:
    >>
    >> >
    >> >"SamSez" <samtheman@verizon.net> wrote in message
    >> >news:9avXc.10271$Ff2.5514@trndny06...
    >> >>
    >> >> "Scott" <holdencaufield@anonymous.net> wrote in message
    >> >> news:kgtri0la0k6ngfdqnld6julvnn2iolr6g8@4ax.com...
    >> >> >
    >> >> > Thanks for the response. The P-10 has a resolution of ~314 (depending
    >> >> > where one reads it or whom one speaks to at Olympus.) Interesting
    >> >> > idea about the cause for the "jaggies" I am seeing. It is definitely
    >> >> > the sharp diagonals that appear to suffer the most.
    >> >> >
    >> >> > Scott
    >> >>
    >> >> If it's over 300dpi, you should not see ANY jaggies -- unless your
    >> >original
    >> >> image is very low resolution [like, 640 or 720 x 480].
    >> >>
    >> >> As long as your starting image has a reasonably high resolution, use
    >> >something
    >> >> like photoshop elements to resize to the desired final print size and
    >> >actual
    >> >> printer resolution [dpi] before sending it off to the printer -- and tell
    >> >the
    >> >> printer driver to not do any subsequent re-sizing on its own.
    >> >>
    >> >> A 300dpi dye-sub should look as good as a wet process print from a decent
    >> >> finisher.
    >> >>
    >> >>
    >> >
    >> >I agree. I have an old P300 Olympus Dye-sub printer and it makes great 4X6
    >> >prints. It just depends on the resolution of what you're printing.
    >> >
    >> >Ron
    >> >
    >> Thanks for the responses.
    >>
    >> The original are from a Canon G5 - most taken as Canon Raw (some as
    >> jpg.) Original size is 2592 pixels x 1944 pixels, opened with either
    >> PhotoShop CS raw converter or Canon File Viewer as at 300dpi (8.64" x
    >> 6.48"); resampled Bicubic to 6" x 4.5"; cropped to 6" x 4"; then sent
    >> to the printer. (Sent directly to an Epson R800 printer the results
    >> are flawless - to send the same photo to the P-10 and not have it sent
    >> way off the edges, I have to use PhotoShop's "Print with Preview" and
    >> then select "Scale to Fit Media", which reduces it to 78.97% (3.159" x
    >> 4.738")- which then gives about the same visible picture area as seen
    >> on the R800. There is a slight difference in size of the paper - the
    >> Epson is 4x6" - the Olympus is 100x148mm.
    >>
    >> Any other ideas, anyone?
    >>
    >> Scott
    >
    >same idea as before -- scale with the tool, and don't post-scale -- either with
    >the printer driver or with 'scale to fit'.
    >
    Have tried every combination suggested or that I could think of -
    still have "jaggies". It actually got worse (all straight lines -
    horizontal, vertical, or diagonal had "jaggies") when I opened the RAW
    at 300 dpi in PhotoShop CS, then used PhotoShop to size it to the
    4.738"x3159" - and not by using the "Scale to Fit Media". Also tried
    once to exactly match the dpi of the P-10 (tried the published and
    tech support stated resolutions) - as well as trying to double the dpi
    - all have jaggies".
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