Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (
More info?)
"Bob Knowlden" <nkbob@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2mr5ciFq02n9U1@uni-berlin.de...
> It's not a major problem.
>
> It sounds like what you've done is tear the thermal interface material.
> It's
> not thermal paste, but it serves the same purpose.
>
> I doubt that it can be safely re-used.
>
> What I suggest is (carefully) scraping off the material from the heatsink
> with a single-edged razor blade. It may be helpful to remove the CPU from
> the socket to remove any TIM from that, also. (See your mainboard manual
> for
> instructions on inserting the CPU in the socket. You may also want to take
> precautions about electrostatic discharge, which could damage your CPU or
> mainboard.) You might use a solvent to remove any traces of the TIM from
> the
> heatsink and CPU.
>
> Applying thermal grease (also known as heatsink compound) isn't difficult.
> Here are some instructions from one maker:
>
>
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_instructions.htm
>
> (In my opinion, these instructions would only be followed exactly by
> compulsive people. For example: I seem to have gotten away with using
> mineral spirits [paint thinner] rather than pure isoprpyl alcohol as a
> cleaner. However, it's best to err on the side of caution.)
>
> Some things to remember:
>
> The same maker provides Arctic Silver. I've not used it. It is probably
> good
> stuff, but it can make problems in some circumstances, as it isn't a
> dielectric (insulator). I doubt that it's a problem with an Intel CPU, but
> I
> vaguely recall that AMD may not recommend it.
>
> Heat sink compound works best when it is thin. It has a much lower thermal
> conductivity than metal. (It is used because it has a much higher thermal
> conductivity than air, so it improves heat conduction when used to fill
> small gaps.) I believe that thermal interface material is supplied with
> retail Intel heatsinks because it is easier to apply. TIM is intended for
> one-time, use, though.
>
> If a "Prescott" P4 (E suffix) is similar to a "Northwood" P4 (all the P4s
> I've used so far), it has a built-in metal heat spreader (a metal plate
> that
> sits on top of the CPU), so it's not as fragile as the chips that are more
> nearly exposed silicon.
>
> Lately, I've used Arctic Alumina. I'm not sure that it is significantly
> better than the traditional heat sink compound that could be had at Radio
> Shack for about $2. (Arctic Alumina is aluminum oxide in an unspecified
> base. The Radio Shack stuff is zinc oxide in a silicone grease.) A small
> tube of heat sink compound is good for more than a few applications.
>
> In short, you haven't "royally messed things up". With a bit of work and a
> little care, your heatsink/fan combination will probably work a little
> better with heat sink compound than with the TIM provided by Intel. If you
> ever wish to remove the heatsink again, it'll be a lot easier to clean up
> than the TIM.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bob Knowlden
>
> Address may be altered. Replace nkbob with bobkn.
>
> "Eric White" <eswhite@triad.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:gWXNc.221403$2o2.11329325@twister.southeast.rr.com...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am building my first computer and due to my inexperience have the
>> following problem. I purchased a p4 2.8E and fastened it to the mobo
>> socket. On top I placed the heat sink followed by the fan and closed the
>> clamps. Unfortunately, the fan cable could not reach the power pins for
> the
>> CPU fan so I unfastened the fan and heat sink to rotate 180 degrees. It
> is
>> then that I noticed a gray adhesive (thermal paste?) that had partly
> peeled
>> off from the heat sink onto the top of the CPU. Have I royally messed
>> things up or is there some way to fix? Any guidance would be greatly
>> appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Eric
Don't use a razor. You may scratch the bottom of the heat sink and
compromise heat transfer.
Keep in mind that a thermal pad cannot always be replaced by thermal paste
and provide better performance. If the two surfaces have very large gaps
between them, thermal pad is better.
But, considering that the pad is damaged, it is correct that you need to
remove it. Inspect the surface of the heat sink. Use the edge of a paper
and hold it against a source of light to make sure that it is flat.
If you need the help of some hard material for removing the pad, use a
plastic card like a credit card. Don't use metal.