De-Assert CPU core voltage

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Hi,
I am new to posting AND building a pc, so please be gentle !
I bought an Abit AA8 Duramax mobo.
Added a P4 3.4 CPU
Gigabyte 6600GT PCIx video card
1GB Kingston Ram, 2 Hitachi SATA drives and a BENQ DVD/CD Rom

I put it all together per the specs and tentatively hit power on.

It worked - I got in the BIOS, looked at the settings, watched the CPU Temp
(56c), etc.

I did that for aprox 20 minutes (reading book, checking settings, etc.)

Then changed boot sequence by removing floppy (I dont have one) and making
the DVD the primary

Put the Windows XP install disk in DVD

Saved + Exited BIOS

System restarted, XP install started up and started loading. However, 2-3
minutes into setup the computer powered down and the JGuru/AC2003 POST Code
indicator shows the following sequence ...

8.3 (ATX Power supply ready)
9.6 (De-Assert CPU core voltage) BEEPS at this
9F - which I cant find a definition for

This just keeps cycling around.

Can anyone tell me what De-Assert CPU core voltage means ?
Is my CPU fried ? If so, what conditions could have caused it ?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give

Anthony

 

[jad]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

I agree with Dave, Have you set the CPU voltages or are you set to
AUTO detect CPU?

"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
news:IK2pd.80118$V41.65830@attbi_s52...
> Hi,
> I am new to posting AND building a pc, so please be gentle !
> I bought an Abit AA8 Duramax mobo.
> Added a P4 3.4 CPU
> Gigabyte 6600GT PCIx video card
> 1GB Kingston Ram, 2 Hitachi SATA drives and a BENQ DVD/CD Rom
>
> I put it all together per the specs and tentatively hit power on.
>
> It worked - I got in the BIOS, looked at the settings, watched the
CPU Temp
> (56c), etc.
>
> I did that for aprox 20 minutes (reading book, checking settings,
etc.)
>
> Then changed boot sequence by removing floppy (I dont have one) and
making
> the DVD the primary
>
> Put the Windows XP install disk in DVD
>
> Saved + Exited BIOS
>
> System restarted, XP install started up and started loading.
However, 2-3
> minutes into setup the computer powered down and the JGuru/AC2003
POST Code
> indicator shows the following sequence ...
>
> 8.3 (ATX Power supply ready)
> 9.6 (De-Assert CPU core voltage) BEEPS at this
> 9F - which I cant find a definition for
>
> This just keeps cycling around.
>
> Can anyone tell me what De-Assert CPU core voltage means ?
> Is my CPU fried ? If so, what conditions could have caused it ?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help you can give
>
> Anthony
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
news:xD4pd.145590$R05.50121@attbi_s53...
> Its a new 400W supply came with the Powmax case
> Case ordered from tiger-direct
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=997095&CatId=1519
> There are two power cables a 2x2 and a 10x2
> The 10x2 connects to a 12x2 with pins 11+12 and 23+24 left empty (per the
> mobo instructions and intel web site)
> The 2x2 connects to mobo next to cpu. I think the 2x2 is the cpu supply.
>
> Anthony
>

Oh, ummmm . . . a 400W power supply that comes with a $30 case? Yikes.
Replace it, ASAP. Even if there is no problem with it currently, a cheap
power supply can fail and take other components with it.

You've got at least one symptom already that seems to point to a bad power
supply, and it's a really BAD idea to use a cheap power supply (in this case
free). Try one of the following:

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-104-966&depa=0
(350W should be plenty of power, assuming a good brand power supply like
this one)

http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=17-153-006&depa=0
(from several builds, I can recommend this one)

 

[jad]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

< I agree with Dave>


Except the panic hype about 'cheap PSU's'


"JAD" <Hrhackthespam@witchiepoo.broom> wrote in message
news:3X4pd.8$Rx4.6@fe06.lga...
> I agree with Dave, Have you set the CPU voltages or are you set to
> AUTO detect CPU?
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

It will be the bios (factory) default, since I didnt change anything except
the boot order

Also, the AC2003 POST code definition appendix has two sections, Power On
Sequence and Power Off Sequence.
Ther code displayed (9.6) is in the Power Off Sequence - even though I am
trying to power up ??

Anthony

"JAD" <Hrhackthespam@witchiepoo.broom> wrote in message
news:3X4pd.8$Rx4.6@fe06.lga...
> I agree with Dave, Have you set the CPU voltages or are you set to
> AUTO detect CPU?
>
> "Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
> news:IK2pd.80118$V41.65830@attbi_s52...
> > Hi,
> > I am new to posting AND building a pc, so please be gentle !
> > I bought an Abit AA8 Duramax mobo.
> > Added a P4 3.4 CPU
> > Gigabyte 6600GT PCIx video card
> > 1GB Kingston Ram, 2 Hitachi SATA drives and a BENQ DVD/CD Rom
> >
> > I put it all together per the specs and tentatively hit power on.
> >
> > It worked - I got in the BIOS, looked at the settings, watched the
> CPU Temp
> > (56c), etc.
> >
> > I did that for aprox 20 minutes (reading book, checking settings,
> etc.)
> >
> > Then changed boot sequence by removing floppy (I dont have one) and
> making
> > the DVD the primary
> >
> > Put the Windows XP install disk in DVD
> >
> > Saved + Exited BIOS
> >
> > System restarted, XP install started up and started loading.
> However, 2-3
> > minutes into setup the computer powered down and the JGuru/AC2003
> POST Code
> > indicator shows the following sequence ...
> >
> > 8.3 (ATX Power supply ready)
> > 9.6 (De-Assert CPU core voltage) BEEPS at this
> > 9F - which I cant find a definition for
> >
> > This just keeps cycling around.
> >
> > Can anyone tell me what De-Assert CPU core voltage means ?
> > Is my CPU fried ? If so, what conditions could have caused it ?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help you can give
> >
> > Anthony
> >
> >
>
>

 

[jad]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

ok but what have you set the CPU voltage settings to? Have you set
the MB to auto detect and set the buss and voltages?

DE-assert, to me, means you 'asserted' the wrong cpu voltages.


"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
news:Af5pd.455846$D%.408317@attbi_s51...
> It will be the bios (factory) default, since I didnt change anything
except
> the boot order
>
> Also, the AC2003 POST code definition appendix has two sections,
Power On
> Sequence and Power Off Sequence.
> Ther code displayed (9.6) is in the Power Off Sequence - even
though I am
> trying to power up ??
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

Thank you all for responding.
I ran down to my local Staples and bought an Antec 430W supply

That fixed it.

This one has a (quite loud) high-pitched whine, though.
Fortunately, Staples has a 14 day return policy (which is why I went there)
.... so I can get a another one in that time.

The units Dave recommended are the same price, any reason why I should go
with the lesser powerd one instead of the 420 ?

Thanks again,

Anthony

"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
news:IK2pd.80118$V41.65830@attbi_s52...
> Hi,
> I am new to posting AND building a pc, so please be gentle !
> I bought an Abit AA8 Duramax mobo.
> Added a P4 3.4 CPU
> Gigabyte 6600GT PCIx video card
> 1GB Kingston Ram, 2 Hitachi SATA drives and a BENQ DVD/CD Rom
>
> I put it all together per the specs and tentatively hit power on.
>
> It worked - I got in the BIOS, looked at the settings, watched the CPU
Temp
> (56c), etc.
>
> I did that for aprox 20 minutes (reading book, checking settings, etc.)
>
> Then changed boot sequence by removing floppy (I dont have one) and making
> the DVD the primary
>
> Put the Windows XP install disk in DVD
>
> Saved + Exited BIOS
>
> System restarted, XP install started up and started loading. However, 2-3
> minutes into setup the computer powered down and the JGuru/AC2003 POST
Code
> indicator shows the following sequence ...
>
> 8.3 (ATX Power supply ready)
> 9.6 (De-Assert CPU core voltage) BEEPS at this
> 9F - which I cant find a definition for
>
> This just keeps cycling around.
>
> Can anyone tell me what De-Assert CPU core voltage means ?
> Is my CPU fried ? If so, what conditions could have caused it ?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help you can give
>
> Anthony
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
news:B57pd.456040$D%.413942@attbi_s51...
> Thank you all for responding.
> I ran down to my local Staples and bought an Antec 430W supply
>
> That fixed it.
>
> This one has a (quite loud) high-pitched whine, though.
> Fortunately, Staples has a 14 day return policy (which is why I went
> there)
> ... so I can get a another one in that time.
>
> The units Dave recommended are the same price, any reason why I should go
> with the lesser powerd one instead of the 420 ?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Anthony

It's not really lesser powered. The advertised (total) power ratings are
kind of misleading, in the sense that power supply manufacturers want you to
believe a power supply fits into a certain class, like 420W or 550W or
whatever. But a good quality 360W power supply can be more efficient than a
poor quality 500W power supply. So effectively, the GOOD 360W power supply
can handle the same load as the cheap 500W.

Fortron is one of the best brands on the market, often out-performing other
brands of greater total power ratings. Thermaltake is also good. Antec is
good also, but if you are certain the high-pitched whine is actually coming
from the power supply, that's not a good sign. (replace the power supply
that is whining, even if you just replace it with another Antec)

On a side note, it would appear you have two bad power supplies, both brand
new. While that is not unheard of, you might want to check your other
components to make sure that something isn't drawing more current than it
should, such as a mainboard grounding to the case through a misplaced
standoff or something like that. My thinking is, in such a situation the
original cheapie power supply might have just given up while the Antec unit
is struggling really hard to keep up with current demands. Just a wild
theory, anyway. -Dave

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

My bad - I opened the case to get a better understanding of where the whine
is coming from - it's the CPU fan
I made a separate post about it.

As for the "cheap" power supply ...

Powmax ATX switching power supply
Model LP-990 D DC output 400W max
Made in China

"Dave C." <mdupre@sff.net> wrote in message
news:30kepsF32l8hlU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
> "Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
> news:B57pd.456040$D%.413942@attbi_s51...
> > Thank you all for responding.
> > I ran down to my local Staples and bought an Antec 430W supply
> >
> > That fixed it.
> >
> > This one has a (quite loud) high-pitched whine, though.
> > Fortunately, Staples has a 14 day return policy (which is why I went
> > there)
> > ... so I can get a another one in that time.
> >
> > The units Dave recommended are the same price, any reason why I should
go
> > with the lesser powerd one instead of the 420 ?
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Anthony
>
> It's not really lesser powered. The advertised (total) power ratings are
> kind of misleading, in the sense that power supply manufacturers want you
to
> believe a power supply fits into a certain class, like 420W or 550W or
> whatever. But a good quality 360W power supply can be more efficient than
a
> poor quality 500W power supply. So effectively, the GOOD 360W power
supply
> can handle the same load as the cheap 500W.
>
> Fortron is one of the best brands on the market, often out-performing
other
> brands of greater total power ratings. Thermaltake is also good. Antec
is
> good also, but if you are certain the high-pitched whine is actually
coming
> from the power supply, that's not a good sign. (replace the power supply
> that is whining, even if you just replace it with another Antec)
>
> On a side note, it would appear you have two bad power supplies, both
brand
> new. While that is not unheard of, you might want to check your other
> components to make sure that something isn't drawing more current than it
> should, such as a mainboard grounding to the case through a misplaced
> standoff or something like that. My thinking is, in such a situation the
> original cheapie power supply might have just given up while the Antec
unit
> is struggling really hard to keep up with current demands. Just a wild
> theory, anyway. -Dave
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

One more thing ... The Antec kicks out uite a lot of heat compared to the
(failed?) cheapo
Would that be reduced if I went with a lower (more efficient) wattage ?
How would I know from the specs ?
I can't keep buying power supplies - Staples might complain

Anthony

"Dave C." <mdupre@sff.net> wrote in message
news:30kepsF32l8hlU1@uni-berlin.de...
>
> "Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
> news:B57pd.456040$D%.413942@attbi_s51...
> > Thank you all for responding.
> > I ran down to my local Staples and bought an Antec 430W supply
> >
> > That fixed it.
> >
> > This one has a (quite loud) high-pitched whine, though.
> > Fortunately, Staples has a 14 day return policy (which is why I went
> > there)
> > ... so I can get a another one in that time.
> >
> > The units Dave recommended are the same price, any reason why I should
go
> > with the lesser powerd one instead of the 420 ?
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Anthony
>
> It's not really lesser powered. The advertised (total) power ratings are
> kind of misleading, in the sense that power supply manufacturers want you
to
> believe a power supply fits into a certain class, like 420W or 550W or
> whatever. But a good quality 360W power supply can be more efficient than
a
> poor quality 500W power supply. So effectively, the GOOD 360W power
supply
> can handle the same load as the cheap 500W.
>
> Fortron is one of the best brands on the market, often out-performing
other
> brands of greater total power ratings. Thermaltake is also good. Antec
is
> good also, but if you are certain the high-pitched whine is actually
coming
> from the power supply, that's not a good sign. (replace the power supply
> that is whining, even if you just replace it with another Antec)
>
> On a side note, it would appear you have two bad power supplies, both
brand
> new. While that is not unheard of, you might want to check your other
> components to make sure that something isn't drawing more current than it
> should, such as a mainboard grounding to the case through a misplaced
> standoff or something like that. My thinking is, in such a situation the
> original cheapie power supply might have just given up while the Antec
unit
> is struggling really hard to keep up with current demands. Just a wild
> theory, anyway. -Dave
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.hardware.pc-homebuilt (More info?)

"Anthony J. Elcocks" <no@addy.com> wrote in message
newsa8pd.80895$V41.59922@attbi_s52...
> One more thing ... The Antec kicks out uite a lot of heat compared to the
> (failed?) cheapo
> Would that be reduced if I went with a lower (more efficient) wattage ?
> How would I know from the specs ?
> I can't keep buying power supplies - Staples might complain
>
> Anthony
>

Well a more efficient power supply will likely produce less waste heat.
HOWEVER, there is no correlation between stated maximum wattage and
efficiency. To find an efficient power supply, check the specifications.
You will see efficiency stated as a percentage, such as 65% efficient or
something like that. I doubt if you will find a power supply that feels
significantly cooler than the antec unit though, even if you find one that
is significantly more efficient. My advice . . . you've determined that the
whining was not from the power supply. The antec unit is a good name brand
and seems to be working in your rig. (right?) I'd leave it as is. -Dave